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Flipped to flower on 20/07.

Glueberry O.G trimmed last night, I call this one, "a nug in the hand"

Don't all the boere go to Australia?? I think it reminds them of the Karoo, go visit your new friends in Australia and then you still hear Karen say, "Pappa hoe lyk daai choppies" Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk

A fool and their money are soon parted.

I have changed my tune slightly... Good for them... Doing what they want and Winning... I wouldn't be surprised if the haze club turns into a dispensery after legalization, depending on the ruling... This could be a great way to build revenue to open up a quality dispensery.. I still do not agree with what they Are doing.. But good for them and for the peeps who have that kind of money for their meds

So I trimmed the 3 plants in front, defoliated and cleaned them up quite a bit. Another Bruce Banner plant started showing it sex (the one to the left in the picture), it was a female and a bit larger so I did some LST again as I had left it to do it's own thing for a bit and then swapped it out in my tent. The smaller (to the right in the picture) Bruce Banner will be going to another forum member as he has the space to grow it out, unlike me. I also noticed that the smaller Bruce Banner wasn't too happy with the previous feed, nutes were a bit too strong so I will ease up on the nutes for the next feed and then after that I will probably do a flush before flipping to flower. I much prefer the Plant Matter fabric pots (lighter colour) over the Grow Guru fabric pots (black). Their sizing is a bit more convenient, not as wide but a bit taller.

Day 43 Sorry for the lack of update, I have since moved 6 of the plants to the tent for flowering, I culled 3 male plants and have 3 more plants which I am waiting for their sex to show. I also did an inoculation of some trichoderma, some BioInsek (fungus which works as a pesticide) and such. I also upped the feeding to 4ml/L and plants seem to have handled it pretty well and at this stage am looking at flipping over to flower within the next 2 weeks or so. The pictures were taken yesterday, I will try take some more pics tonight and add them as well. So far all is going well! The training has really helped keep my plants short, so space is currently not an issue at all.

Hahahaha! Fuck, this one got me again!

That just happened.

Yeah, the info is a bit outdated. Black Dog LED released the first "3W" designs in 2010. Then moved on to "5W" LEDs around 2015. These days, QBs and COBs are made with 0.5W and 1W chips typically. Horticultural LEDs from Phillips, Cree, Osram, etc. are typically 3V and run at 350mA, for about 1W output., with 58%+ radiant efficiency. You can still get decent PAR with 3W/5W chips, but it's mostly because of the lenses. Pretty much only the Chinese still manufacture the 700mA and 900mA "3W" and "5W" chips, using Epiled/Epistar/Bridgelux dies, which max out around 25-30% radiant efficiency.

Gorgeous!

Morning, my 2c's We live in one of the most beautifull countries in the world and our cost of living is still cheaper than most. We have no hurricanes, no earthquakes, no volcanos, no tsunamis. If you want to go, you go. But as was mentioned above, if you decide to go, do your homework. Doing it to ''get away'' is for the wrong reasons, you should be ''going towards'' to better or improve your life. But on the other side of the coin, how can you judge ''how bad'' it is? Have you even been anywhere else to be able to make an informed comparison? You will be pleasantly surprised. Yes, there are problems in RSA....most other countries have similar problems and some are actually worse. Before you jump the fence, go have a look first. (Fyi a weekend trip does not count) Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Woah... I wanna respond... But it's too early I agree with you though... It's a go to saying for a lot of white folk... Eg. "this robots been out for 2 weeks, honestly this country is going to the dogs. As soon as I can I'm fucking off to New Zealand" Go for it boi

Evening 420SA, Slight update on our outdoor. Flowering ladies doing their thing despite the season chill. Enjoying their tea and it shows. Starting to put on a little weight - in a good way...hahaha[emoji3] Greenthumbsalltheway. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Btw, for those looking to avoid my missteps, from what I can gather online, this is what a plant looks like when you overwater and overheat a younger plant. A sort of blistered leaf appearance. They also feel a little plasticky.

Those plants look amazing, and training rules for keeping a low, flat canopy some of them tend to be reluctant to show their gender.

Some of these perhaps for clones and even a bonsai mother plant: https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/influx-linear/59956 Put it on some aluminium u-channels or something similar, even a 3mm sheet perhaps and run them at lower power. You can upscale it for a bigger grow too - use some larger strips and just add more strips. Alternatively you can consider purchasing some Chinese quantum boards or getting some local ones if the importing is a mission for you.

Amazing first grow will be following

I just edited my first post with a bit more info.

I personally wouldn't use CFL's for more than clones / seedlings. CFL's are very inefficient for the power they consume. Even then I'd rather look at those LED tubes you get at Makro and other shops - something like this for clones / seedlings: https://lumenpower.co.za/2ft-st8v-0-6m-8w-830-warm-white-230v-em-552677.html?cat=49877 I'd look at either LED's or HID, I prefer LED's so that would be my first choice.

LED grow lights are environmentally friendly first of all and the foremost advantage. Quick start, low power, no flash are the advantages which save energy. So now energy is secured. Again if using LED grow lights then the photosynthetic effect of plants will increase, the growth rate of plants will increase when regular lights can’t do that. The followings are the tips of how to choose a best LED grow light: 1.Spectrum, PPF &PAR&PPFD PPF (Photosynthetic Photon Flux) is the key measure for grow lights as they measure the total amount of PAR (Photosynthetic Active Radiation) that is produced by a lighting system each second. PAR light is the wavelengths of light within the visible range of 400 to 700 nanometers (nm) which drive photosynthesis. This is essentially the spectrum of light your plants actually use and need. Beware that if the LED light you are considering makes no mention of these anywhere then dig in a bit to understand whether their wattage actually caters to the spectrum your plants need. A lot of lights claim to be full spectrum, however, as we mentioned above, plants need a certain wavelength and this is critical for their growth and during vegetative and flowering stages. Make sure you find out what the PAR is for light you are evaluating and what the density of that PAR based on PPF values. SPECTRUM: For efficient photosynthesis, plants require different light wavelengths, or spectrums, at different stages. To supply suitable light spectrums at each growth stage, you may have to use different LEDs that produce specific color spectrums. If you choose full spectrum LEDs that allow customization of spectral light, or have full spectrum built in, it allows the grower to have the correct light for full cycle cultivation from seedings to harvesting. For example, in order to grow most efficiently, many plants need light in the red and blue spectrum, but also infrared and ultraviolet, depending on the stage. A powerful full spectrum LED grow light enables you to cater to the plant's specific needs by providing the proper photosynthetically active radiation values. PAR： PAR is photosynthetic active radiation. PAR light is the wavelengths of light within the visible range of 400 to 700 nanometers (nm) which drive photosynthesis (Figure 1). PAR is a much used (and often misused) term related to horticulture lighting. PAR is NOT a measurement or “metric” like feet, inches or kilos. Rather, it defines the type of light needed to support photosynthesis. The amount and spectral light quality of PAR light are the important metrics to focus on. PPF: PPF is photosynthetic photon flux. PPF measures the total amount of PAR that is produced by a lighting system each second. This measurement is taken using a specialized instrument called an integrating sphere that captures and measures essentially all photons emitted by a lighting system. The unit used to express PPF is micromoles per second (μmol/s). PPFD: PPFD is photosynthetic photon flux density. PPFD measures the amount of PAR that actually arrives at the plant, or as a scientist might say: “the number of photosynthetically active photons that fall on a given surface each second”. PPFD is a ‘spot’ measurement of a specific location on your plant canopy, and it is measured in micromoles per square meter per second (μmol/m2/s). If you want to find out the true light intensity of a lamp over a designated growing area (e.g. 4’ x 4’), it is important that the average of several PPFD measurements at a defined height are taken. Lighting companies that only publish the PPFD at the center point of a coverage area grossly overestimate the true light intensity of a fixture. A single measurement does not tell you much, since horticulture lights are generally brightest in the center, with light levels decreasing as measurements are taken towards the edges of the coverage area. 2.Area, Space & Light Footprint This is another very critical point to consider when evaluating your light. The footprint or the area that your light will cover will determine how many sets of light you need for your growing area. The lower cost lights tend to not have this information and a lot of beginners find mediocre results with their lights as a result. The footprint of the light is most often mentioned especially in the higher quality lights and gives you a good idea of the area or spread of the light based on the height it is placed. This also makes your PPF values differ and hence good lights and companies do tend to share all this necessary information. Make sure you know how much your growing area covers, and whether your light will be sufficient for it. So consider, light footprint as well as light PPFD for maximum results. 3. Wattage & Efficiency Watts is the measure of the energy input that a light requires. The output of the LED light is not only the function of Watts but also the quality of other components and design. The components are may be: LED chip Chip density Optics used Heatsink The increase of wattage decreases LED efficiency because of the increase of the temperature in the electronic circuit board. So when the manufacturer of LED grow light claiming Watts as the measure of ability to grow plants then it’s suspicious. So you need to have much knowledge of Watts and PAR and must depend on manufacturers’ information. LED chip You always want to look for chips that are at least 3W, any less than that won’t give your plants enough consistent light coverage. This means each chip needs to be 3W, not 3 lights of 1W LEDS, so look out for that when reading the description. The 3W chip offers the best quality in whites, blues and reds. The Output This is also important; you want to read product descriptions for total output. How many units does the lamp claim to have? This can be 300W, 400, 600 or even 1000. Always check for the output and look for at least 300W. The Lens Good quality lamps will have an optical lens that magnifies the light giving about 25% more penetration of nutrients for the plants. This makes for a more expensive lamp but certainly worth the price. Heatsink These lamps stay on for the better part of the day, often 15 hours at a time, so you want to make sure they have internal fans that protect the lamp but also those that protect the plants. If it gets too hot in there you could damage your plants. LED lights run cooler than HPS bulbs as they only let off about 15 to 25 % of the energy as heat, but the heat occurs behind the bulb in LEDS, and that area needs to be protected. A good quality lamp will have a thick aluminum heat sink attached to the back exterior or interior area which forces the heat away from the chips. Materials The LEDs should have a warranty. In fact, LEDs of this nature are supposed to have a life span of about 10 years, especially in some of the more expensive panels. Look for panels that are sturdily built with aluminum, steel or materials that won’t easily break. The Guarantee Look for lamps with more than a one year guarantee, as I mentioned before, LEDs are made to last up to 10 years, so I am somewhat suspicious of manufacturers who only offer a one year guarantee, as this is an indication of a cheaply made housing or cabling system. I usually look for a 3 year guarantee on parts. The parts guarantee is better anyway because the lamp will continue to work regardless of the part that needs replacing. You can easily replace the missing part yourself when it arrives, and in the meantime your plants still get the nutrients they need. Hopefully, this gives you some insight as to what to look for when considering the different LED grow lights for your new marijuana crop.

Joints and pipes I prefer joints but the pipe is quick and easy. I have a RooR bong and a volcano digital but only use these on special occasions I make Coconut infused oil but give most of it away

Girls are looking killer dude!!

I've been feeding with every watering, using BioBizz. I am not trying go for a "super soil" where I do not need to feed at all. So whether it is superior in that sense I cannot say.

Botanist hey? So what's the research then that THC is conducting? A horticulturalist is more appropriate with the current setting. THC is a growing/agricultural service provider, no mention of breeding or any specialized research into Cannabis, so I'm just curious why a botanist would betray his degree to do simple gardening... Its definately time to get actual Reps from THC here...so many questions and less answers.....

I wonder if it's linked to Green Thumb Hydro or not, common name so very likely it's not. Now the wait starts, sounds as if they dry and trim the bud for you too? So how long do you expect to wait until you receive your first harvest and do they ship it to you or do you collect it?

Green Thumb is the botanist THC uses for the growing. I'll post updates about the grow as and when I receive them.. I am quite excited

Where does "The Green Thumb" come from? Curious to see how your experience is @NoStringsOnMe please keep us posted!

I'm actually halfway through week 5 already so yeah stoked, I'll be spraying 2L of that probably on Sunday morning at like 2AM[emoji1787] Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk

Spray went surprisingly well I must admit bru. Maybe one or two spots left but the majority is gone. I'll be spraying them again this weekend coming when I'm off. I only have a few weeks left for my girls so just trying to stoot through it Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk

@Pat999, how did your milk spray go? Iv since injected my res with milk... Testing at a rate of 2ml per 10l Plants in the test res responded the same way as when I did the spray... Praying hard... Roots are... Fluffy? Solid new root growth still, no Ill effects... Res goes milky... But clears up within a day So now I'm trying in another res to see what happens... Wish me luck

Thanks man! I will try include my hydro methods and tips and shit for other hydro growers

Looking forward to following this one wishing you luck on a bountiful harvest

Bit of stretch... But not falling over yet Mind the salt crusted res lid

This is very true, regardless of race / colour - there is a massive amount of people moving overseas. I suspect it comes down to the uncertainty which we have locally and they feel there is more stability in other countries. I am very certain all of us wish the best for this beautiful country of ours and for things to just improve going forward.

It is not just white folks that are immigrating. It is all your highly educated people. It is the easiest for them to go. Both my brothers are gone. My sister is also looking into it. I'm sticking around not going anywhere. I have always been the black sheep. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

I get what you're saying, I think most people think along the lines of that if the shit hits the fan you already need to have an "escape plan" or already be elsewhere. Majority of people do not have the luxury to literally pack up and move overseas overnight, immigration is a long process. You also get people who just complain and say they want to do something and move, although they never follow through or bother to look into it. A lot of people are not able to immigrate even if they wanted to, soo.

Week 9

Looking good, I'd have liked to see pics of the over watered plants too. May help some newer growers identify what that may look like

Schindlers as well as The Haze Club both use the premise of privacy to argue the case of personal, private use of cannabis, Schindlers within the Constitutional Court, and The Haze Club within the capitalist environment. If you do not need a license to grow for yourself at home, then you don't need a license to pay someone to grow "your" weed. Also, because of how a lease agreement works in South Africa, when you lease a space, you are in all legal respects the owner of that space for the duration of that lease agreement. This is probably why they limit the number of plants to two, most likely on the advise of Schindlers, which could hint towards what we can expect for the legislation to state when it is eventually passed.

So here's my maths.... if you get the claimed 20-30g's every 2 months we're looking at this: R949-00 x 2 = R1898-00. Factor in the price of 2 seeds which I will put at R200 a seed so that's an extra R400-00. That puts total cost to the customer per 2 months at R2298-00 If you get the minimum of 20 g's of bud. R2298-00 divided by 20 gives us R114-00/gram. If you get 30 g's that's R76-00/gram. Where on the street do you get indoor grade cured bud for that price? It's essentially cost price. I can also guarantee you, come the day we have proper dispensaries, I doubt the prices will be lower than this. Just wanna make it clear I don't know or have any affiliation to these guys. I just don't, from the face of it, see any reason to bash it. This is no Cannapax IMO

@Pat999 im pretty sure that is what happened. Was wondering why the hortishop would sell this kak. I reckon rockwool would be best option for cloning.

Bruce Banner?

Update

bro, i stopped reading your ramblings when you started with your insults and your laughable and condescending buntu education line, im just here for entertainment value. this isn't a commercial forum, even if there were commercial growers here they sure as fuck wouldn't tell you, so your claims to fame mean jack.

Should have stayed over the water then laaitjie. Probs seker only do dabs too right? You have a man bun too with a stubby beard? Let me guess you were shirts that say "legalise". Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]Why don't you try and drop your balls with that mic my outjie Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk