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Day 63 I sent the Pineapple Express away to my brothers "greenhouse". Also started sprouting the next crop. Blue cheese in front, Mazar at the back. Mazar Cheese Pineapple Express in new home

I'm assuming you moved her outdoors ... Look at it this way, if you get kicked out of your house and have to live on the streets with no shelter you'd have looked the same as your plant right now. Plant has to adapt to his/her environment. Plant was probably not use to UV/IR. oh and freezing weather.

All the talking about this project gave me an itch to start. Discovered that I will need quite a bit more alu than expected, so frame which is also the heatsink will probably cost around R550 by the time I'm done. Cost of 100w COBs: R120 x 4 Cost of 50 12v COBs: R45 x 6 Cost of frame: R550 Cost of 12v fans: R40 x 2 Will post pics as I make progress, but light will be finished and hanging over the weekend. Frame size is 600mm x 300mm 12v fans wil be connected for active cooling. As always, input is welcomed. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Plants have to acclimatise to any environment, whether you move a seedling or an adult plant. Same with transplanting, they can go into shock and get stunted. You have to introduce them to the new environment gradually over course of a week to 10 days. Otherwise you will damage/stunt them and at worst,kill them. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

You can clean some of the bottom nodes. Like take the 2 bottom nodes off, will make the top grow better Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk

I'm the owner of Sacred Seeds. I dont know how many members have bought from me on this website but you will get a better response if you ask for a reference in the facebook group "Cannabis Club of South Africa" or any of the other cannabis groups on FB. You are welcome to email me on admin@sacredseeds.co.za if you have any other questions.

Quite effing shocking the amount of stupidity and ignorance. What is defined as a ''lab'' and termed ''sopisticated'' doesn't speak well for our educational standards. The part where they ''read up'', really?? - Success is proportional to effort and research plays a big part. Makes me slightly worried.... What would they come up with if they looked in my garage? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Shipping is generally free... I started a new thread on the light I'm busy building which includes the costs, check it out. https://www.420sa.co.za/topic/2519-700w-12v220v-led-cob-combo/?tab=comments#comment-28314 Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

This is going to be a rough 2 months. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

Fyi, both seeds emerged at the same time after 4/5 days from the normal FF soil without a problem. So I'm going to ditch jiffy pellets and keep things simple as possible from now on.

Seem to have bad luck with these Euforia autos, anyway I'll see what they turn out like. Experimenting with germinating two more of them in the same pot. I heard about the competition being beneficial for autos, worth a try, I have loads of those seeds. Straight into FF soil this time, so also testing this "too rich for germination" thing. If anyone wants to let me know how much longer I should let the AK48 (rear-right) go, feel free. Short Rider (rear left) looks like it'll be a while longer.

@Za Weed Lover

Hi everyone I'm planning to build my own LED light but need some advise as to where I can buy the cobs or qb panels. I'm good at building things and this sound like a lekke project and would keep the start-up costs down any advise will be appreciated.

I’d like to start this discussion to learn which genetics you guys are interested in or look at growing next. I spend way too many hours unproductively just browsing various international seed banks. Here is an example of what is love to grow and why: LSD by Barney’s farms. Description from breeder. “LSD[emoji769] is a hardy mould and disease resistant plant that responds well to all growing conditions. It was given its name by the Barney’s crew because of its powerful trippy high. This plant is very easy to grow, and can give you a high yield of award winning and powerful buds. LSD[emoji769] gives a euphoric, psychedelic and powerful stoned effect, giving an immense cerebral high. LSD[emoji769] has a musky smell with the intense flavour of earthy chestnut. Specs: Type Feminised Photoperiod Normal Cultivation Indoor/outdoor Genetics Original Skunk #1 x Afghan Indica Indoor Yield (g) 700 gr/m² Flowering Time (days) 60 - 65 Feminised Outdoor Harvest Month October Feminised Outdoor Harvest Month Week 1st-2nd week Height (cm) 90/100cm Height Indoor (cm) 100cm Indica % 70% Sativa % 30% Medical No Taste Intense flavour of earthy chestnut Aroma Musky smell” Why this strain? A friend of mine gifted me with 3 grams of a less than premium harvest of his. I fell in love with the smell - almost a bit like yeast, barley and hops. Almost like a craft beer - which I really enjoy. The effects were long lasting, very interesting taste and great smoke even with a less than ideal grow. So which strain is on your wishlist and why? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just a quick update. Plants are looking good, I'm going to flip this weekend I think. Will also swap out a plant in my flower tent. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Builders warehouse :) alu angle... Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Here is what I have done... ASAP...re-align the break as best as possible and wrap the break with an elastic tape to seal the wound and prevent infection. I prefer electrical tape cause it's elastic and provides support to the broken limb. Apparently a dab of honey on the wound assists with healing. Your break is on a notsogood place.... wrap it tight with tape and support the branch as best you can. It must not be able to move or it wont heal. Improvise a splint if you must to help. If it's a large branch you might have to trim some of foliage off to give it a better chance. Hope it heals. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

They have a sale on, at the moment. I picked up a bunch of Vero29s for $15 and some Citizen 1212 Royal Blues/Ambers for $12. Shipping was pretty fast. They're likely trying to get rid of their Citizen 1212 and Vero29 stock. Citizen 1212 is probably the weakest brand-name COB on the market. Vero29 is a solid COB though. Better than Cree CXB3590 in all my testing. But Bridgelux has improved efficiency of their latest gen 7 COBs by 6%, so maybe they're trying to get rid of the older ones.

No idea why their prices are cheaper, ask them. Use post box courier and deliver to a drop ship location and the shipping will be cheaper. That's what I did.

I can almost guarantee you if you got that tested it would still contain high amounts of butane . Just because it's hard doesnt mean its purged properly . Smoke it and enjoy it but dont fool yourself into thinking its purged properly . What I am trying to say it's probably fine for your personal smoke but it would never pass a test for a commercially safe product

Some feedback: So after all the input, this is what I did: I got a large mason jar, turned the lid inside out, so that it would allow some airflow, lightly folded the goo in a "packet" of parchment paper and I burped the jar as often as I would fresh herb. Walaa!! 1 month later I took a look and it was as hard as candy - wooohoo!! I did the flame test on a little piece and zero ignition at all. So it's Thursday, @HotboxShow will be rocking tonight Thanks to everyone for your input and for your safety precautions. I love the SA Cannabis Community!! More Time, One Love

I decided to check my knowledge on the efficiency of grow lights. From https://aeradix.co.za/grow-light-efficiency/: PPFD is a measurement of light intensity within the PAR wavelengths and is measured in µmol/m2s1. The efficiency of a grow light on the other hand is measured in µmol/J. Sometimes written as umol/j, μmol/j, umolj-1 or PPF/W. Grow light efficiency is also referred to as photosynthetic photon efficiency/efficacy (PPE). Thus, µmol/J is the amount of micromoles of photons produced per joule of energy used. The power draw of a light is measured in watts and watts is the joules consumed per second (J/s). Therefore, if you know the wattage of a single light source and the Photosynthetic Photon Flux (PPF) value, then the efficiency of the light can be calculated. For example: 1 100 µmol/s and 500 W is (1 100 µmol/s) / (500 J/s) = 2.2 µmol/J. A PPE of 1.5 umol/J is considered efficient. Anything above 2.0 umol/J is considered very efficient. For comparison, many (high pressure sodium) HPS fixtures on the market have an efficiency of 1.3 umol/J or less, with some of the best HPS grow lights approaching 1.7 umol/J. The best ceramic metal halide (CMH) grow lights have an efficiency of just under 2.0 umol/J. HPS and CMH efficiencies will increase in the near future, but LED efficiencies will increase at a more rapid rate.

This the kind of shit my parents point out to me if only I could call my setup as "sophisticated"

Sweet! I'm using as much sun as possible nowadays... Soon you could keep the plant outside all day but for now I take her outside for some sun and wind... And inside at night under the grow lights. Yea it's a bit of extra effort... But it does make a difference

That plant looks like it would loooove some sunlight... Where is it currently and how much light does it get?

Not sure why the leaves curling down on the one node and feels a bit hard as well... Should I snip it? New growth also coming along quickly. 2nd shorter plant looking very healthy with no issues... Just wish it would come out of the closet and show its sex lol! The last 5 pics is 2nd plant.

If you look closely there is some descent equipment it the pics. But I suspect that the persone publishing the pics did not know what they had here and just published for the sake of publishing some thing. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

Looking very nice. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

It's best used from seed as less I then required. Nice to get the mycorrhizal started as soon as possible. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I think there is some miss communication here, or whoever did it got some skewed info. HBO is sometimes referred to as honey. There is absolutely no reason to put normal honey on anything you are planning to smoke. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

White widow GG#4 Other

So I did another spray of STS on Mo nday, and then took some pics yesterday. Will do my next spray on Friday / Saturday.

Growth is slow because I don't have space for them closer to the light right now... But they are growing

the black market has better prices and better weed

Very well ventilated area, like outside if possible. Just watch out for bugs and dust Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Spot on, especially after the industry boom. Referring to@Oolong83's earlier post, when you buy an outdoor strain, ie lemon skunk, the seeds in that baggie has some lemon skunk origin perhaps, but more than likely 50% the seeds produced is a poorly grown Swazi from the neighbours' first grow, thinking his growing poison but its a male. Don't get me wrong, I've grown out some very nice bagseed, but it certainly wasn't the strain I bought in that 'bankie' Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Also if you are doing a hydroponic/coco grow the calmag takes up a chunk of the target EC/ppm, esp for seedlings. I use a lower than suggested amount of calmag to fertigate and then do a folia spray daily. So far I've seen no Ca/Mg deficiency issues.

Just sprayed them down as we start with week 6 of flowering. Slowly but steady In order as they appear Blue Dream DC OG AK Bay11 Lemon Diesel Amnesia Haze Amnesia Haze Strawberry Amnesia Sent from my G3312 using Tapatalk

Entry #2 This is something I created - Cannart. Simplicity = draw a picture and put cured cannabis as part of the feature ...the problem is I end up smoking my own art!

Entry #1 The Miracle that is inside of this tiny little seed.... “Gratitude for the seemingly insignificant—a seed—this plant the giant miracle, inside such a small seed .” This is a seed soaking in water before germination

Flowering : Week 3 All going well, ebb and flow working nicely. Feeding (gh powder feeding long flower) at acout 1 EC, then let it reduce to .5 before back to 1. PH meter still broken.

Day 33 I feel this is a bit boring as the pics are so similar, once I have culled the plants I think it will be a bit better as I will have fewer plants to update on and can start showing things in a bit more detail per plant. Having this amount of plants is quite a lot of work! I got my bigger LED driver on Thursday and got around to installing it earlier today, so my QB's are now being run at 333W, quite a bit more compared to the previous 180W. It was really needed as I repotted my plants on Saturday to their final 20L fabric pots and the extra space the pots take requires me to raise the lights to get a better spread, so the lights are still not being run at 100% which is 480W. I doubt I will run the lights at their full potential as there isn't much of a need for it. Probably 360 - 400W at most. I topped all the plants, with the exception of GDP #2 which is still very small and trimmed / pruned them and did some more LST. GDP #2 and GSC #3 were not repotted due to the fact that firstly I do not have more space for them if I put them into bigger pots and secondly GSC #3 is already in a slightly larger pot and GDP #2 is still on the small side and is doing fine in that pot for now. I really need the plants to start showing their sex as I need to cull some plants and reduce the amount I have. Most likely within the next 2 weeks and once that has happened I am thinking I will flip the plants into flower - will see how things go over the next 2 weeks although plants are growing pretty quickly now. I am feeding them at 2ml / L with BioBizz Fish Mix, stopped with the EM Pro as it's not really needed each watering. I used a bit of Cal Mag and Kelpak along the way too and have finally added some sort of extraction to my area as it was much needed due to the humidity being waaaay too high for too long and causing condensation running down the walls on a daily basis so that can only do the plants some good. I will most likely be connecting the fan to an RH probe with a relay to control the RH with the extraction fan and then connect my heater to the temp probe & relay as I feel it may work better than the built in thermostat in the heater itself. I am now using Organics Matter soil, I prefer it over the Freedom Farms soil and the plants I've had in the OM (Organics Matter) seemed happier too and less affected by the low PH I had been feeding them for a while. The fabric pots I got from Plant Matter are waaaay better than the ones from Grow Guru! Both in terms of quality and sizing, I wish I had not purchased the Grow Guru ones.

Update on the ebb & flow conversion. Everything is installed and working, just figuring out the timing. I don't have another digital timer, so may just do 10 mins every 2 hours on a switch timer, that's on the main daylight timer. I will switch to fabric pots for next, and maybe switch medium to leca.

@Oolong83 could be that its roots are struggling, perhaps the start of rootrot, try not to overwater would be my advice. Weed loves going through a wet to dry cycle. Of course not bone dry, most new growers kill plants simply by overwatering. When the soil is constantly wet it creates a nice environment for anaerobic bacteria, while the aerobic bacteria loves n bit dryer soil. The trick is to have both sets of bacteria happy through a simple wet dry watering cycle. Please note I don't mean bone dry, microbes need moisture to live.

The formula was posted for me in another thread, I will paste it for you here. Thanks @Kgrows you can use the formula for diluting anything thats a bit tricky: Using C1V1 = C2V2 To make a fixed amount of a dilute solution from a stock solution, you can use the formula: C1V1 = C2V2 where: V1 = Volume of stock solution needed to make the new solution C1 = Concentration of stock solution V2 = Final volume of new solution C2 = Final concentration of new solution So lets say you want 3%(C2) final concentration & 1000ml (V2)of the final solution You have 12% H2O2 (C1) So: 12 x V1 = 3 x 1000 12 x V1 = 3000 V1 = 3000/12 V1 = 250ml IMPORTANT STEP: V2-V1 = water volume 1000 - 250 = 750ml So to get 1L of 3% H202 solution you need to add 250ml of 12% H2O2 to 750ml water

Hi, I am growing an indica dominant autoflower and wanted some advice on when I should harvest. Attached are pictures of the main head, side and the trichomes Currently I am around 11 weeks in from sprout, most sites seem to say 10 weeks in should be good but they also mention noticing some amber trichomes would be ideal.

Nah, I had some issues with PM on my last grow. Some of the guys in the states are big into bud washing, and pointed me in that direction. Worked wonders. They don't use it just for PM though. They advocate it for everyone. It's quite simple, but here is what you do: 3 buckets. One with baking soda, lemon juice and room temp water. One with hot tap water. The last with cold tap water. Once you've harvested and trimmed, you take a branch with buds and agitate it for about a minute in the first bucket, making sure not to bump it against the sides of the bucket. You don't want to damage those trichs. Then you just rinse off in the last 2 buckets. Place the wet buds on some paper toweling with a fan on them for about 30 min. Making sure to turn the buds once after about 15min. Then straight on to the drying racks or lines. They dry quickly, and cure well. I know it sounds counter productive, but the results are excellent. The idea is to wash off the crap your buds collect over an 8 - 10 week period. It also seems to wash some chlorophyll out, because the water is pale green when I'm done. Let me assure you that there is no loss in potency, and the buds sparkle with trichs.