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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/26/2019 in all areas
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A budding leaf on my Chocolope:3 points
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I see GT Hydro have moved shops in the same center and are having a braai and opening event this coming Saturday 31 August. Will definitely be popping in myself.2 points
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I agree... Light leaks are your worst nightmare... Nothing worse than loose airy buds, or loose airy buds that hermie Dark cycle must be dark... If you can see your ladies... It's not dark enough. So look... You will still grow bud... But it might not even be better then the schwagg you buy on the street Keep it dark, keep it dank2 points
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2 points
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There's 2 answers to that question : TECHNICAL : 1: Any light that leaks into your budding section will cause plants to have a delay on the flowering or if you have a finicky strain it might not start flowering or get a bitch fit and hermie.... I know hermie gets thrown around a lot but it's there and not something you want dangle some light in front off. COMMON ANSWER : 2. Don't worry to much about it. I have grown outdoors with some light from a security light giving a slight hue with no ill effect. You do need to check your plants and see if any part of the plants are growing different than others that is more darkened. Is there no way to seal it off. I know they sell allimuniun tape at builders etc that you can use and still have reflection. I hang towels over my tent to make double sure that no light gets in when lights are off. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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It was at this point when I had to decide whether I wanted to breed (and buy weed) or grow weed. I chose growing cause quite frankly I love smoking. The choices and the prep to not have pollen close to flowering plants is a nightmare. Had to shower every time I wanted to check in the ladies.... Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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Might need a HEPA filter to stop pollen from entering/exiting, and I don't think PC fans will be strong enough to pull air through that filter. Although I could be wrong and a standard carbon filter could do the job. ..or even just pantyhose2 points
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Yeah that will work. Maybe get some of that 110mm ducting from builders with a filter in front of it and hook it up on the incoming. Or even a passive airflow with filters on both sides.... Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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I have some 12v PC fans, so may hook one up inside the tent for some circulation... I will have to monitor and see.2 points
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OK wow. Yeah lifetime...... It's gonna take a while to harvest all those seeds though. Im pretty sure that somewhere some of my BKB seeds will be rising out out a compost heap cause I never harvested all my seeds. I stopped when I got to 140. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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It's a female that's been forced to make pollen with the use of colloidal silver, so should all be females. Yes, I've got 15 other plants in the same tent that will be pollenated. Lifetime supply of female seeds :) Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Geez, I tried it once with a Blue Kush Berry cross. I just smoked a pipe from that harvest and I have to admit that I am very pleased with results. I have about 70 seeds left so look out for that grow diary. With that said, are you gonna let one male pollinate 15 plants??? Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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I have. 220v panel fan inside my tent until the oscillating fan comes. Like trailblazer said, even a 12v pc fan will do something Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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Personally I would rather have my flowering ladies have a few seeds vs getting mold in my breeding tent. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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I have one making pollen and 15 receiving :) Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Only if it extracts out - my issue is the pollen being spread throughout my house and getting inside my flower tent with the plants I do not want to pollinate. Very risky business, I know, I hope I do not end up accidentally pollinating my other flowering plants. I'd rather have the plants suffer a bit with high temps and RH for a few days then pollen everywhere. The plants will survive.2 points
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Cob is 'chip on board', these specific cobs do not need drivers, straight 220v I feel like my life will be incomplete until I have 4 x 750w units. :) :) Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Flowers are still popping. If the pollen is viable, I'll definately have a bunch of seeds soon. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Always nice to see such a nice cone on a joint... Whose with me2 points
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So my estimate was off by a week, first flower only popped last night. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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If your DIY CS was made with distilled water, and you keep the lid shut, it should last a long long time. I have a little bit left of a batch I got a year ago from a guy that I intend using in about a month. If I shine a laser though the CS, the beam still brightens a lot as it refracts off silver particles.2 points
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I decided to take one of my c99 clones and experiment with store bought Colloidal silver. The required ppm seems to be a debatable topic, ranging from 18ppm to 100ppm. For the purpose of this experiment I will be using Biosil 20ppm. Let's see how it goes. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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The process has started. Version 2 of my DIY LED. Will keep posting pics until finished Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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[emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45][emoji45] Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Hello Has anyone experimented with light cycles before where you give the plant a longer light cycle than 24hours? Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk1 point
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Diluted that tea into 50l of water and watered my garden where it needs help. Refilled the brewer and started the dechlorinating process... I like to make "fucken" sure that the water is devoid of chlorine before I use it. Fresh water in a brew is the killer of teas... Never use fresh!! RO water is fine Dechlorinated water is fine Distilled Mineral water is okay Rain water is great Tap water is fine once it's been standing for a few days or bubbled in a bubbler for atleast 24 hours... Yes peeps say you can get away with a 20 min bubble... I say you can't.1 point
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Thought so. I always doubt stuff even if tested with Amp meter etc. Just always great to hear another growers opinion... It's currently moving its way into the veg cab (mentally). Was thinking of using it for the clones but that is just way to bright (personally) . Rather ended up pulling in some wire and hooked up a 14w cfl. I'll maybe try it out to get the cuttings stronger after transplant..... Thanx for input [emoji1690] Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk1 point
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A simple R50 PC case fan will drop the humidity severely. My 'ex' veg tent is running at 40% rh, a little higher than I prefer, but hopefully low enough to flower in Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Nice! I will probably have pollen sacs popping by the end of this week then. Are you letting the pollen do its things or are you assisting and trying to brush some onto pistils yourself? Have you noticed a change in colour on any of the pistils yet?1 point
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I don't feel there is much need to feed kelpak once the plants are bigger. More for seedlings / clones.1 point
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So confirmed that the Daq Lime has lots of pollen sacs all over it, I did another and probably final (will see) STS spray on Saturday evening (last night). Still no signs of flowering on either of the Charlottes Angel plants. I purchased another tent today which I will use for pollinating the plant - so both Daquari Lime plants will be placed inside that tent together, the conditions will be harsh (no extraction or intake) so I expect humidity to be high and the temps to be high too, I may water the plants less while they're inside there and it will just be used until the pollen has dropped and been spread on the female plant to pollinate her. I do need to get a few things to finish up some lights for this tent though. I then plan on culling the pollen donor (STS sprayed plant) and then spraying down the newly pollianted female before placing her back into the usual spot and continuing with flowering her. I will then spray down the tent outside most likely with a host pipe and leave it to dry before bringing it back inside or using it for another plant. This tent can double as a drying tent if need be, so it could serve dual purposes! I really have no clue how long until the pollen sacs open and drop pollen.1 point
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Hey guys It's update time and it's been 1 week since flipping to flower. There has not been a stretch as I expected and in one week of flower cycle each plant only stretched 2 - 3cm. So I guess that this cycle is good for people with limited indoor space. The veg cycle keeps them short and bushy while the flower cycle doesn't allow a lot of stretch... So far. But I will surely post any and all updates as it grows. FOR THE RECORD I AM CALLING THE 2 X BB X RG, [emoji1664][emoji1664]"MONSTER GORILLA" [emoji1664][emoji1664]FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH But enough of that, let's get to the goodies and info on what's what. The weather is starting to change which means that the tent is not as cold as it used to be at lights out but it's still not that hot because the soil from some of the pots is still moist - - - ([emoji23]) enough. I wanted to start the flowering feeding today but will hold back due to soil moisture. So instead I've chosen option #2 and foliar fed them all. That should help with any and all food needs till the soil dries out more. I supercropped the Red Cherry Berry and as you can see I went to town on the defoliation. I also cut out all unnecessary branches to make sure that all energy goes towards the main ones. I could've gone for mainlining but I'll try that next round. HERE ARE THOSE PICS : Monster Gorilla #1 - 22,5cm Monster Gorilla #2 - 17cm Red Cherry Berry - 29cm Cheese - 16,5cm Mendicino Skunk #1 - 28cm Mendocino Skunk #2 Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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You'll find if you gonna breed that line further, it gets more stable, and consistant Ito pheno expressions.1 point
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1 point
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This was something that I pondered about a long time ago, shorter daytime may give you quicker yield, but it comes at a cost. Yield will be minimum and quality may not be great. You're possibly going to end up with some hermies. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Not really. Was just thinking. I stuffed up my light cycle with adding another light in my tent. Kept the 12 hour dark cycle so now my light schedule is different than before. But it is all good again now. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk1 point
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From what I have read, as long as you have regular dark schedules and not jumbled it should be fine, so an 18/12 for flowering should work. Lights will be on more often so you can expect a jump in electricity. From what I have read... You can get a 15-30% increase in yeilds. At the cost of adjusting to a 30 hour light cycle to do maintenance and things you need to do. Are you thinking about trying?1 point
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Yea, I sourced both chemicals locally. Was not difficult at all, nothing special required to get them etc. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk1 point
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Correct, Dischem, Biosil is 20ppm, where as silver labs is 18ppm. Ita on the shelves, generally used as like an immune booster of sorts. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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It stops the production of Ethylene which from what I recall and this causes the plant to produce male parts and pollen. If you have a plant which hermies, the seeds are more likely to hermie as well. With STS or CS, since the pollen is not created due to stress, the chance of higher hermies from seeds is heavily reduced. @Trailblazer420 very nice! Mine are not showing balls yet, how long until the balls have ripened and drop pollen?1 point
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Starting to look very promising... Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Stick a cutting in a bag with a bit of tap water and give it some time on the outskirts of your grow lights.1 point
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Also if you are doing a hydroponic/coco grow the calmag takes up a chunk of the target EC/ppm, esp for seedlings. I use a lower than suggested amount of calmag to fertigate and then do a folia spray daily. So far I've seen no Ca/Mg deficiency issues.1 point
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Prevention is better than cure you can't really over do it... And plants generally respond well. Foliar sprays are very under rated... You should have a regime you stick to almost every week. Mine is milk spray once a month, calmag once a month And my secret weapon humic acids and kelpak once a month... And just water once a month as a wash vibe1 point
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Could those be sacks? I think they're tiny little sacks. Still in vegging mode, extended the veg spraying by a week due to a few days that I had to leave town... [emoji4] Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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I've seen several people here and other forums arguing about 18/6 vs 24/0. From the bit of reading I've done it seems like this is not clear cut one way or the other. It seems like the idea that a dark period is beneficial comes from two things. Firstly the idea that plants need "rest" just as we would, however this is rather unconvincing as plants are not animals and anthropomorphism is not a convincing argument in general. Secondly plants apparently have a "dark cycle" however it seems like this just means that there are things that can happen without light, not that darkness is actually required. Which as I understand it means that the pros/cons are 18/6 Pro: does no harm to veg stage Pro: 25% less electricity Con: potentially slower growth than 24/0 (but to what extent?) 24/0 Pro: does no harm to veg stage Pro: potentially faster growth Con: more electricity So it seems like the decision mainly comes down to electricity usage. Given the cost of electricity a 25% reduction in usage could be significant and make this an easy choice. Does anyone have any articles/studies/papers etc that discuss this? People tend to be quite adamant that one way is clearly better than the other... It would be great to have some concrete facts or alternative just to know that for now it is debatable and both ways are entirely valid. (Having said that, I'm now considering switching to 18/6 ) Some references The Cannabis Grow Bible 4th edition - argues for 24/0 https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/18-6-vs-24-0-the-science.425165/ - mostly pro 24/0 https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/cannabis-light-cycle-fundamentals-24-0-18-6-and-12-12/ - pro 18/6 (and fairly convincing I think)1 point
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