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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/26/2019 in Posts
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A budding leaf on my Chocolope:3 points
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I see GT Hydro have moved shops in the same center and are having a braai and opening event this coming Saturday 31 August. Will definitely be popping in myself.2 points
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I agree... Light leaks are your worst nightmare... Nothing worse than loose airy buds, or loose airy buds that hermie Dark cycle must be dark... If you can see your ladies... It's not dark enough. So look... You will still grow bud... But it might not even be better then the schwagg you buy on the street Keep it dark, keep it dank2 points
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2 points
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There's 2 answers to that question : TECHNICAL : 1: Any light that leaks into your budding section will cause plants to have a delay on the flowering or if you have a finicky strain it might not start flowering or get a bitch fit and hermie.... I know hermie gets thrown around a lot but it's there and not something you want dangle some light in front off. COMMON ANSWER : 2. Don't worry to much about it. I have grown outdoors with some light from a security light giving a slight hue with no ill effect. You do need to check your plants and see if any part of the plants are growing different than others that is more darkened. Is there no way to seal it off. I know they sell allimuniun tape at builders etc that you can use and still have reflection. I hang towels over my tent to make double sure that no light gets in when lights are off. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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It was at this point when I had to decide whether I wanted to breed (and buy weed) or grow weed. I chose growing cause quite frankly I love smoking. The choices and the prep to not have pollen close to flowering plants is a nightmare. Had to shower every time I wanted to check in the ladies.... Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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Might need a HEPA filter to stop pollen from entering/exiting, and I don't think PC fans will be strong enough to pull air through that filter. Although I could be wrong and a standard carbon filter could do the job. ..or even just pantyhose2 points
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Yeah that will work. Maybe get some of that 110mm ducting from builders with a filter in front of it and hook it up on the incoming. Or even a passive airflow with filters on both sides.... Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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I have some 12v PC fans, so may hook one up inside the tent for some circulation... I will have to monitor and see.2 points
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OK wow. Yeah lifetime...... It's gonna take a while to harvest all those seeds though. Im pretty sure that somewhere some of my BKB seeds will be rising out out a compost heap cause I never harvested all my seeds. I stopped when I got to 140. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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It's a female that's been forced to make pollen with the use of colloidal silver, so should all be females. Yes, I've got 15 other plants in the same tent that will be pollenated. Lifetime supply of female seeds :) Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Geez, I tried it once with a Blue Kush Berry cross. I just smoked a pipe from that harvest and I have to admit that I am very pleased with results. I have about 70 seeds left so look out for that grow diary. With that said, are you gonna let one male pollinate 15 plants??? Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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I have. 220v panel fan inside my tent until the oscillating fan comes. Like trailblazer said, even a 12v pc fan will do something Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk2 points
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Personally I would rather have my flowering ladies have a few seeds vs getting mold in my breeding tent. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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I have one making pollen and 15 receiving :) Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Only if it extracts out - my issue is the pollen being spread throughout my house and getting inside my flower tent with the plants I do not want to pollinate. Very risky business, I know, I hope I do not end up accidentally pollinating my other flowering plants. I'd rather have the plants suffer a bit with high temps and RH for a few days then pollen everywhere. The plants will survive.2 points
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Cob is 'chip on board', these specific cobs do not need drivers, straight 220v I feel like my life will be incomplete until I have 4 x 750w units. :) :) Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Flowers are still popping. If the pollen is viable, I'll definately have a bunch of seeds soon. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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Always nice to see such a nice cone on a joint... Whose with me2 points
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So my estimate was off by a week, first flower only popped last night. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk2 points
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If your DIY CS was made with distilled water, and you keep the lid shut, it should last a long long time. I have a little bit left of a batch I got a year ago from a guy that I intend using in about a month. If I shine a laser though the CS, the beam still brightens a lot as it refracts off silver particles.2 points
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The process has started. Version 2 of my DIY LED. Will keep posting pics until finished Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Clone of a clone of the original G13 Labs seed Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Hello Has anyone experimented with light cycles before where you give the plant a longer light cycle than 24hours? Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Diluted that tea into 50l of water and watered my garden where it needs help. Refilled the brewer and started the dechlorinating process... I like to make "fucken" sure that the water is devoid of chlorine before I use it. Fresh water in a brew is the killer of teas... Never use fresh!! RO water is fine Dechlorinated water is fine Distilled Mineral water is okay Rain water is great Tap water is fine once it's been standing for a few days or bubbled in a bubbler for atleast 24 hours... Yes peeps say you can get away with a 20 min bubble... I say you can't.1 point
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Induction florescent. It uses electro magnets to accelerate the particles. It is the same as florescent light. It is about 3-5% more efficient than normal florescent tubes. The cost does not justify the use this not used more commonly for growing. But if it's lying around it should be perfect for seedlings and clones. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk1 point
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Alright nice, so a fan going to let the pollen spread. I am in two minds about a fan in my tent for air circulation, I am leaning towards no fan to help prevent pollen from getting out the tent... I was referring to the plant receiving the pollen, although I can see the pistils are starting to brown, so that means they've received pollen. I forgot you're using the same plant to create pollen and to pollinate (make seeds).1 point
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I'm just letting it do its thing, enough wind in the tent to spread it like a BAWSE. If you're referring to the pollenator, odlt enough, very few pistols developed, CS performed way better than expected. Just a random grab, Pineapple Express starting to go brown.. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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A simple R50 PC case fan will drop the humidity severely. My 'ex' veg tent is running at 40% rh, a little higher than I prefer, but hopefully low enough to flower in Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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So confirmed that the Daq Lime has lots of pollen sacs all over it, I did another and probably final (will see) STS spray on Saturday evening (last night). Still no signs of flowering on either of the Charlottes Angel plants. I purchased another tent today which I will use for pollinating the plant - so both Daquari Lime plants will be placed inside that tent together, the conditions will be harsh (no extraction or intake) so I expect humidity to be high and the temps to be high too, I may water the plants less while they're inside there and it will just be used until the pollen has dropped and been spread on the female plant to pollinate her. I do need to get a few things to finish up some lights for this tent though. I then plan on culling the pollen donor (STS sprayed plant) and then spraying down the newly pollianted female before placing her back into the usual spot and continuing with flowering her. I will then spray down the tent outside most likely with a host pipe and leave it to dry before bringing it back inside or using it for another plant. This tent can double as a drying tent if need be, so it could serve dual purposes! I really have no clue how long until the pollen sacs open and drop pollen.1 point
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Seems legit, enough ratings for me to take a chance on a few. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273974030632 Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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What are you doing to keep the pollen from these males getting into your other tents?1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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Didn't know it's snowing indoor1 point
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This was something that I pondered about a long time ago, shorter daytime may give you quicker yield, but it comes at a cost. Yield will be minimum and quality may not be great. You're possibly going to end up with some hermies. Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Not really. Was just thinking. I stuffed up my light cycle with adding another light in my tent. Kept the 12 hour dark cycle so now my light schedule is different than before. But it is all good again now. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk1 point
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From what I have read, as long as you have regular dark schedules and not jumbled it should be fine, so an 18/12 for flowering should work. Lights will be on more often so you can expect a jump in electricity. From what I have read... You can get a 15-30% increase in yeilds. At the cost of adjusting to a 30 hour light cycle to do maintenance and things you need to do. Are you thinking about trying?1 point
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Day 8 Flowering - Week 2 The Chocolopes have been very well behaved and creating a beautiful canopy under the hps, I can't really say the same for the BlueberryKush's, they have been stretching and making their massive leaves to try and catch as much light as they can. I managed to snap a few branches of the BlueberryKush while training them this week, usually the worst time to train is when lights go on and when you have not watered in a while. Best time to train is after a watering in my opinion, but in this case the 2 snapped branches helped me tame the girls a little bit. They are trying to show off to the Choco's I think. Here are a few update pics, I will try take more closeup shots when I get some pompoms going. Sorry about the quality of the pictures, working on it. Peace and love stay green yall! Topview of the garden. The great divide, BlueberryK to the top, Chocos to the bottom. BlueberryKush's being bit overkill on those fan leaves, happy plants though.1 point
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Yea, I sourced both chemicals locally. Was not difficult at all, nothing special required to get them etc. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk1 point
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That's good news thanking the kindly mr.Totemic, I believe I recieved mine from the same source as you so hopefully it's still good to go.1 point
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Judging by the size of some of these, they should open in the next few days. I have selected a few females to cross with which are ready and waiting to be pollinated :) C99 will obviously be the only pollinator... Strains awaiting ball popping: Pineapple Express (unknown genetics) Sour Diesel (unknown genetics) Mango Kush (unknown genetics) Bruce Banner (@greenkush genetics) GSC x BB (@greenkush genetics) GDP X BB(@greenkush genetics) Gorilla Glue (unknown genetics) Royal Gorilla x BB (@greenkush genetics) Cinderella 99 (G13 Labs) - 3rd generation Other strains are still to young to capitalize on the fem pollin and will have to wait for the next round, however, it may be a while... Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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It stops the production of Ethylene which from what I recall and this causes the plant to produce male parts and pollen. If you have a plant which hermies, the seeds are more likely to hermie as well. With STS or CS, since the pollen is not created due to stress, the chance of higher hermies from seeds is heavily reduced. @Trailblazer420 very nice! Mine are not showing balls yet, how long until the balls have ripened and drop pollen?1 point
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Yes this is for feminized seeds, the CS is absorbed through the foikage which causes the flowering. It is not due to stress, so your risk of hermies is directly related to your growing environment and will not be due to the CS Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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Starting to look very promising... Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Also if you are doing a hydroponic/coco grow the calmag takes up a chunk of the target EC/ppm, esp for seedlings. I use a lower than suggested amount of calmag to fertigate and then do a folia spray daily. So far I've seen no Ca/Mg deficiency issues.1 point
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There is a lot of info about plant stress. Especially going from 24/0 to 12/12. Consensus is to gradually reduce the light to 20/4, 16/8 and then flip to 12/12 This reduces the stress on the plant and in turn reduces the chance of a hermie. Growers doing the 18/6 can negate this step as the plants are used to the light cycle and the switch to bloom doesn't stress them too much. That's another reason most growers prefer a 18/6.1 point
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