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Concur with above mentioned. Sunlight and humidity is not your friend here. You need an area with no direct sunlight and some ventilation. We're on the north coast, ambient humidity is always high 60-95%. We dry in the garage as it's the only space available, built a simple pulley system to hoist the buds out of harms way. A 12v server fan provides indirect airflow, you don't want to dry it out too fast, 4 to 7 days works for us. The buds need to dry out evenly all the way through, but not bone dry otherwise the curing process doesn't start properly and the smoke may be harsh. We leave them for 3 to 4 days then start checking-you want the thinner twigs/branches to snap when you bend them. Obviously with bigger buds it will take a bit longer. Lots of info on the net, check tobacco curing methods as well, help me to understand the process. We use hygrometers for the first few weeks in the jars. Petshops should have the basic ones for reptiles. Cheers and welcome to the journey. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

We ran 2 crosses this season. They were chopped down a couple of weeks ago and dried. We have a few of each cross a couple weeks into veg. Thought we would share this little test with 420sa. Busting open these buds and I'm reminded of why we chose these gals for the breeding run... Let the hunt begin...

Autumnal

Frosty male being fed on by bees

Hi guys, the plan is to chow her down for hanging as the flush has been going on for 12 days now, the trichomes look cloudy but are not amber as yet though, any thoughts.... Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk

Hi everyone, First time posting here. So here is photos of my plants that's been growing since last year October until now. Apologies if the photos are not in order from start to where they are now. Medium: Coco, Vermiculite, Pearlite ((Topped with a layer of sterile sand)) Think these are 8L buckets. They are very small Feeding: Manual hydro feed every day by hand Sometimes the rain helped a bit Feeding schedule: Feed Feed water, Feed feed water etc. Foliar Feeding every water day at 4pm Strains: No idea xD Germinate day: 3rd October 2019 Environment: Outdoor under 10% Shade netting on top, Insect netting on the sides Had to move some of them to the outside, as space was a problem Would appreciate it if anyone can help identify the strains. Do excuse the top colas of the sativas thats touching the roof (I know i cringe as well but those ones want to reach heaven it seems. Enjoy

Goodness - that's tight brother. Now that is something to strive for. Wow. Growing on a farm makes one forget the aspects of space and efficiency.

I decided on doing the flip today Did another defoliation in preparation and there is good light penetration throughout the plants. I took a brix reading again, ladies are still sitting at around a brix level of 5. So far in veg I've only recorded a measurement of 5 throughout. I am expecting it to rise as the preflower stage begins. Before Defoliation After Defoliation

Oh wow! Very exciting!!! I hope you got a good couple of empty jars laying around cause they will need a cure after dry before you will really enjoy the smoke. Hahahah the pollen sacs always show up if you push the plant a bit longer! So, this biltong dry rack you speak of, is it light proof? Best is complete darkness and yes that 50% humidity will be fine. A slow dry is the way to go, for sure, however if your bud is still kinda soft and moist after 7 days I would say it's too slow and you're at risk of mold, always keep that in mind. After the dry, you gona trim up the buds and drop them in jars, do 30min burps every day for a week, after that burp every other day. Point of the burp is for fresh air exchange, so if you see the buds are packed or don't move it's good to give the jar a little shake or just make some of the buds loose so the moist air between them can escape. Do this for a good 3/4 weeks before you try the smoke for the first time, anything sooner will be a waste of weed and will probably not be all that pleasant. My bet would be that both factors, the genetics and how they where handled are both contributing factors in the different grow structures.

Only a pleasure! Ludwigs organic stuff is nice, no problem with it. I would still like to recommend BioNeem, just because it's a mild foliar feed aswell as insecticide and keeps most bad bacteria at bay aswell. One thing to keep in mind is that it's a preemptive so you can't use it to control infestations and stuff, but rather to prevent those situations. The fact that it keeps my plant healthy and everytime I use it my leaves shine and look super thick and happy AND helps the plant fend for itself against pests and what not, keeps me coming back for more, always have a bottle on hand. About the DE, you might not find it as easy, not all nurseries have it. You can get it at the hydroshop. I have seen a generic form of it in some nurseries, it's a product called "Worteldokter".

Update as we get towards harvest, The Diesoline with the OG Kush pheno has stayed small and delicate with very fine leaves. It took a hammering from the wind, but has pushed out neat little buds that I am looking forward to sampling. I think it may be something special. The best Candy of the bunch has done very well to resist pests and the wind and her buds have come in very nicely. The bonus "Growers Delights" I planted out at friends and family. They are fun, but not really producing well and just goes to show the importance of controlled pollination to keep strong genetics. I will report back on smokability in a few weeks once drying and curing is done!

Our Giant Cookie Bird lady started showing cloudy colours. Luckily not the whole plant, so she'll be harvested in stages depending on her trichs. The seasonal rainy weather and hot windless days in between does not bode well wrt budrot. Inspecting them every day now and cutting the bad pieces out before it spreads. Luckily its keeping to the smaller buds below the main colas. In two minds here, would prefer to push her for another week or two. But that idea is not without risk. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the beans @Dank Cheers

The Big Vanilla Kush lady fell gracefully over a 2 day period. Had some small spots of budrot showing up due to the seasonal rainy weather last week. Trichs were cloudy with a few ambers so wasn't going to push my luck too much. Whole house was scented with fruity sweetness during trimming...hahaha. Thanks @Dank for letting us grow your gear.

Aweh@Mambawana The plan is coming together nicely. Your selection criteria is solid and your GG cut delivered beautifully. Sign me up for some testing here in the land of the Zulus. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Glad to share some knowledge, bud! After all help is what we all came here for, that and our shared level of enthusiasm concerning this plant! That's a real shame losing that seedling man, I'm sorry for the loss! You don't perhaps have a pic of the larvae? What pesticide are you using? That is one big reason why I pop seeds in jiffies, they're bleached so basically free of any living organisms and contaminant free! If you use distilled or RO water you're basically just providing a moist environment for the seed, you will never run into any problem unless the seeds are duds. Then you just have to chek temps (for seed sprouting I would say 5°C above growing conditions is perfect, so I let it range between 33°C and 38°C, try to stay below thay 40 mark, perfect) and probably the most important is to have nice direct light contact when the seed breaks surface. Humidity is not actually all that important to be completely honest. The seedling is in jiffy for like a week then transplant, by then the plant has already established a root, that will give you the ability to mix a soil with a good amount of Diatomaceous Earth in it, not only does it kill living organisms aspecialy larvae, but it also feeds the roots, provides trace elements and some calcium. You could try popping the seed directly into the mix with the DE in it and skip the jiffy, but you have to be aware that in turn that can cause problems too expecting a seed to pop in all kinds of mediums. Seeds actually literally only need moisture to pop and break surface. Infact any kinds of nutes or anything more than just plain moisture can cause more harm than good. Jiffies are so cheap and the difference it makes is really quite something. Stay far far faaaar away from giving any seedling any treatment untill the first set of true leaves and then start by half dosages till they're 4/5 nodes tall then you can use the recommended dosage. I've seen people introduce mycorrizhea in the seed soak stage, (which honestly makes no sense at all in my opinion) and none of the seeds popped, about half of them cracked open and showed a little tap root, but never made it past that. So when I say your seed needs only moisture, I literally mean only moisture. That's also another reason why people seed soak and then the paper towl method till you see a 1cm long tap root then you know it's not a dud atleast. Then into jiffy and I'm telling you man, 95 to 100% success rate.

Want to become a tester for 1000Hills Nursery. Follow our work. Like what we do and you will get 1st digs at everything that passes preliminary testing. Stay blessed and see you again when we see some roots

After some separation, decided it's time to start pollination... Winter 2020 breeding run.

@Greg The Sun is very bad for your harvested plants. For one it makes the buds brown and ugly. Ruins smell and taste. Then there are the chemical processes that don't take place... Get them out of the Sun and dry it in your house. Preferably complete darkness

Shes showing about 10% amber now [emoji16] Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk

2 weeks.

Got some more pics for you @PsyCLown. Leaving the switch to after the weekend. Also bumped the EC up to 1.1 and running the LED at just below 200W. It was suggested to me to run at 160W during grow and flower but I want to see what the extra oomph will do. Honestly just kinda playing around.

Some swelling...