Leaderboard

I just ordered a 10t version 3.0 press from rosinpress.co.za Lead time 3-4 weeks but i got a R1000 discount due to the wait so a great deal. The owner Sean communicated swiftly and answered all my questions and also gave me some insight. Cant wait to press my own rosin. He will soon have his own pre presses which I'm also very interested in. Deal expires Sunday you can pay 50% deposit now and the rest when your press is ready just drop him a mail.

Hi guys, I have used F1 a couple of time and mainly with Green House Powder feeding and done RDWC with GHE also, for me these two nutrient line are simular, when I did run into problems with F1 it was mostly because I didn't bump the tap water to 0,2-3 EC with Calsium Nitrate from Horti mix, when I had a def/tox problem due to not bumping I flushed with 1EC (mostly problem was in flower) and PH 5,7, like said above I'll put in 1-2 liters and wait so all the coco in the pot gets wet to dissolve any concentrated nutes and then flush again with 3liters, then il flush again the next day and then skip a day and then again. Mostly I didn't know what was wrong but that fixed the problem, after that I can feed 1,8-2 EC from the week 4 and il even go to 2,5 but the main thing was at that high EC is to keep medium moist, any drying out will solidify the nutes and the the pH in medium gets to high ( hope my words make sense). When's that fixed the problem il play with PH between 5,7-5,9. Also I first mix nutes properly in bucket then check and adjust PH then wait and check PH again after 30, I check ph again before next feeding because it tends to differ the next time abit due to temps variables in the grow space, I keep my bucket in grow space, to cold outside tent and don't think plants like the cold water when the medium is grow temps. Hope my experience helps a bit, so we learn together. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

Hi, Thanks for the tag, @SkunkPharm Finishing up backlog on small lights and receiving the rest of our heatsink order from January, next week finally, so am expecting to have the grow bar range back up soon, and new high efficiency veg range after that. If in big rush for a small light, Looking at the links above, the one website is just random chinese crap. I would advise against that. The modugrow one looks pretty sweet. I can't tell what the difference is between their 90W lights, but the specs are solid. It's 1/3 of a standard 240W Quantum board light, for R2k. The QB-75 will be back next week, and is going to be R1250 going forward. Compared to the 90W Modugrow, the QB-75 is about 10% less efficient, and 15W less, but also costs R800 less. So it's a slightly different value proposition.

Very sexy! He just got another order

I wouldn't blame the cold too much in this regard. If 15C is your low end then I rate you're ok. I am currently getting as low as 13C and going ok Although temp fluctuation between day and night could be a problem if not in flower, but even then I've never seen problem unless you get below 10C. Them weeds is resilient.

Day 86 at the first spot of amber they got the chop. One of them threw nanners 2 weeks ago so chopped it early had a few joints and this is not couch lock weed.

First indoor harvest, pineapple glue auto ready for drying

I have to write the guys a recommendation. Every order is here the next day. www.marijuanaseeds.co.za Additional, they have Snow White Feminized as freebees.. and i only do Autos.. so wrote them, if they could exchange the free fem seeds with auto seeds and got Blueberry Kush Autos instead. from my side.. and if somebody is looking for something to grow next season.. you might want to give the Nirvana Candy Kush fem a go.. flavor and taste is very very good. But with the Post Office down and no parcels moving.. very fast and secure site to shop seeds.. they also accept Bitcoin () still wait for my Gelato and Pineapple seeds from fastbuds.. is in SA for 20 days now.. but not scanned into the system yet. I think will take a few more weeks till I see those seeds hehehe

I think I give those a go.. the numbers they put are hard to believe https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000214530976.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.62c35a088UVHxM&algo_pvid=48d3ac56-f090-46a2-9c1a-0b8f966c99d5&algo_expid=48d3ac56-f090-46a2-9c1a-0b8f966c99d5-10&btsid=0ab6fa8115907396166023780e8ff5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ wups.. is a german link.. and I have troubles finding the product in english description. My main issue is this one: Power: 120 Watt Voltage: 48V LED: 248 pcs Samsung lm301h led + 36pcs 660nm + 4pcs UV + 4pcs IR Flower Footprint: 4.5 'X4.5 "oder 5'X5 'DECK (2 kits) That would be 240 Watt for a 4.5x4.5..

Hey All, I'm new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself and hopefully share my experience with you all, and would like to go on your adventures with you too. This is my second proper go at this, learning every day and always open to advise or critique. Nice to meet everyone and be here, Have a dank day y'all

Picture of the light from below if anyone is interested, mixed 3x 4K and 3x 3K panels and then 4x 3K with Far Reds on ends.

Welcome and enjoy bud..

I'll take your word about the Horticulture bit... I know that they are practically the same effeciency... Just the h is more efficient by like 2% or something. They are liked over the b range, but only because they are newer and more efficient and cost the same. I'd get a psu that can run all 4 boards at the same time... Meanwell have a 480w driver that will do the trick... Otherwise 2 240w drivers will also work... I would avoid getting a psu per panel for simplicity HLG-240H-48AB or similar HLG-480H-48AB or similar or is it the 52A you need... @PsyCLownwill know

@Dr. Green @Prom Thanks for the support guys, I really appreciate it.

And as suggested in the thread, if your floor is cold then raise them abit Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

@GGG they don't enjoy having cold, soggy feet. Raising the temp of the water is a very good suggestion.

Cool, with your phed water, first water so that the whole meduim is wet, but no runnoff. Let it sit for a few min for the water you added to stabilize in the meduim. Then flush until you have enough runoff to test the runnoff pH and ppm. Then depending on those results you can see if this is just a plain water feed, or if you need to complete the flush. But from what we can see, the completion of the flush is necessary. The test is just for your info

He recommended the 10t as i will be pressing flower and popcorn in 20g batches. You can use the 10t to press big batches of hash too. The 20t is too much pressure for hash, kief and sift

10t.. most likely.. taking it with a friend. Was looking for one and that price looks rather killer for the quality of the build. So Thanks a lot for posting!!

If it popped and stopped growing.. dud.. if never popped.. dead seed ^^ If you have waited only around 2 days, give it a few more, if you have nothing after 5, dead. Never had anything coming after 5 days wet. When you glass the seed.. i do not recommend to let it soak for longer as 12-15 hours. I prefer to plate none popped seeds after that time, keep em moist instead of having a swim. So not that you did anything wrong.. seed might just be to old, lethal genetics or had bad storage conditions.

And when I look at your feeding amount, can't it be that the amount of Phosphor you add, lock out the iron? Your very bright yellow center looks direction iron deficiency..

Yeah, coco and hydro are the same in that sense. The coco is simply a medium in which the water / nute mixture is held. Coco does not contain any nutrients at all, unlike with soil. @TheUltimateNoob so @CreX and I were talking and you're using Freedom Farms Formula 1, which isn't pure coco / perlite. It contains some amendments, if you're feeding according to the coco / hydro guide on the bottle this may be causing issues as the amendments are also providing nutes. Ingredients: Coco Coir, Worm Castings, Perlite (30%), Volcanic Rock Dust, Bone meal, Gypsum, Fermented probiotic bran. That is the Formula 1 mix. So I'd certainly lower the nutes you're giving, perhaps even follow the soil chart for the GHE nutes instead - I have not looked at what those dosages are like though.

Managed two clone 2 miniature pineapple glue auto just for fun, was lolly poping the big plant, the stems were hard so I plugged the 2 into a small pot been going strong for over 1 month, think the 1 is done and the other is halfway lol

Entry #3 Had to get in the special forces for help me train this two headed monster.

^^ #3 The dark side of the tent and #4

Banana daddy

Geminated on the 29th of April 2020. Choco NL by @Totemic Using Justcannabis soil, potted in normal plastic pots. Added Explogrow and Micromatter from Plantmatter SA, using Seagro and Kelp for foliage spray. Transplanting into Plantmatter SA fabric pots Images to follow soon

Hi - I have a small space (shower cubicle) not used 1.2m x 1.2m. I will line the inside walls with reflective mylar. I'm on a tight budget so I'm currently researching my options regarding led lighting. As you know this is the most expensive part. It seems possible to construct a LED light source with these LED cobs fairly easily so I'm wondering how many of these cobs will I need per plant if I have 1 or 2 plants in a small space like that. The cobs are full spectrum LED 50w from https://m.lightinthebox.com/en/p/1pc-cob-new-design-creative-led-grow-bulb-cob-chip-aluminum-for-diy-plant-flower-seeding-light-50-w_p6747851.html?prm=1-2.2.1.1&from_cid=52653 Thank you

The closest grow last year, most 80g but 2 or so had 120g on them.

Awesome little lady..

Thank you kindly CreX, I'm running 640w of @growopz boards of LED, which I bought as 2 lights and made them into one, but are only pushing @ 600w for efficiency and longevity. These are all GSC, and I have so many clones in front that would need to be rehome soon. Also lost my job end of last year and it's not been easy at all. Doing my best to survive one could say.

Love the smell of hydrocarbons in the morning.... hahaha.[emoji3] Petrol, diesel, methanol and toluene. 2 or 4 stroke. Didn't start out with that intention, just love tinkering, building and playing. Self confessed Mopar addict. Current other lady: '75 CJ with a 2.8td on 31'' muds. What you all running? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Lol the h purely has the spec sheet written for horticulture. No difference in the LED spec or price.

Just cannabis rosin lounge pressed 25g sections of my popcorn 85 degrees for 11min. He presses super long my rosin was still fire I of course will be experimenting a lot i grow my own so no problem

Good advise I think i stick to the 240 i use on the TS too.. need one backup unit for all lamps i run. Where in SA is the best place to shop LED drivers or should I just do another import order for those 5?

No driver.. but you get them also with cooler for 10$ more. Rather skeptical about those numbers. the h also only seems to indicate the hydro section from Samsung, more environment resistance to the b version... but same light emitting capacity. Will even go dimmed option on the driver.. First I want to see those boards beat the TS before I jump.. friend has the b boards in new.. so we can even run a direct compare and (thank god) he ordered a good par meter so i can skip on that one.

I got 2 Modugrow because I was impatient would of loved to get a QB from Growopz or Leon LED. But I am happy with my purchase and happy to support some local guys.

No I don't use one... I don't think I see anything less than 15°C air temp inside the tent, max gets to around 28 with humidity between 50-70%... Not sure about the roots, will have to stick a thermometer in the soil for a while Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Yeah bro I used to feed according to this soil pH absorption chart I've attached for a while (because the medium is pH balanced at 6.5) before I got the suggestion to follow Hydro pH levels. I didn't have any issues before, even at high ppms - I've hit 1000 by accident for a week once - I think changing the pH kinda f*d me over just a little bit, but this looks more like a lockout issue now after reading through everything... The feedings have been around pH 6 for over a week... This may have given the opportunity for P to lockout Mn according to the hydro pH chart... Wouldn't make sense with the soil chart unless the P just caused a lockout due to toxicity. They're due for a drink tomorrow so I think I'll flush with 5L of pH'd water each, measure runoff pH and ppms, then flush again if necessary and give them a low dose of Micro... (was supposed to be water only) Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I forgot to mention, may not be a bad idea to drop the strength of the feed ever so slightly, perhaps to around an EC of 1.4 I'd say keep the ratio's the same though.

I dono man... Iv been where you are... Meticulous calculations and decimal point readings... And it got all too much at one stage... Anyways, my point is... Maybe you are being a bit too motherly at the moment. Soil and coco meduim tend to self stabilize pH to an extent... So I'm not sure if your different levels of pH are throwing things off... PH changes should be fairly gradual... But consistent... I would maybe change your pH regime to use less pH down fluid by mixing your nutes before adjusting pH, and then stick to a pH for the week... Say 6.1 or 6.2 or 6.3 even as you mentioned the plants are in early flower now and are gonna need the slightly higher pH to account for the drop in pH in early bloom. And then the next week you go down a bit to say 5.8-6.0 and hover there for the remainder of the grow. Are you feeding the plants at every feeding? So 4 times a week? I think that's a bit much too, which could be the cause of the one lady looking a bit unhappy. I think you need to take a runoff reading to see where the pH actually is... And how high the runoff ppm is... Im even tempted to suggest p Fok!! En het nou my eirs verbrand lol I'm even tempted to suggest a flush of that plant with copious amounts of phed water and then resume normal feeding. What you are experiencing is quite a complex problem, where it would seem like a deficiency but is more likely a toxicity due to excess phosphorus in the meduim. Nitrogen deficiency is the yellowing of the mature leaves first from the bottom of the plant - generally new growth is normal still... And a nitrogen tox makes dark green leaves with curled tips. Not quite what you have... You are quite right in saying you have just recently fed her so no deficiency should be present... So adding more nutes now will be to her further detriment.... So toxicity is on the table... But which one??? There are so many symptoms displayed so which can it possibly be?? Iron deficiency... Zinc...... Those are the most prominent that I see... But like you said... You just fed them so you know the nutes are there.... So now we look at lock outs due to excess nutes... And the most common culprit is the sulphor and phosphorus which lock out other nutrients at root level... So actually I think a flush is in order... But let's get some 2nd opinions before anything rash

I can't comment on the solution, coco is out of my realm but those plants do definitely look Manganese deficient. The droopiness might not be related though, just to keep in mind. Might even be a lockout if you're experiencing deficiencies close to feeding. If I were experiencing this I'd probably opt for a flush and a fresh low dose feed and work my way up in ppm. I'd also just stick to ph of 5.8 when experiencing a problem rather than making fluctuations while the plant is unhappy. Just my but I'm sure a coco guru will give a better definitive answer.

Nice brooooo! I was wondering how long it would take for you to show up on our doorstep

This is my PCG Cookies x Keylime Pie.

My snap #1. Hope you like it.