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Hi, have you grown hydro before? Do you have a pH and EC pen? What fertilizer range will you use? For me coco is coco I used to mix my own Coco/perlite. I think this fancy packaging is just a way to inflate the price. My opinion. Good Luck

Always love free shit, whether it be seeds, papers or even stickers

I bought just before lockdown, didnt get any seeds free though they blessed me with 2 packs of skins with card filters, packed really nicely but had to wait for the lockdown before I got them at level 4. Grown their GSC, 3 times now and their stuff has always been my favorite of the serval grown.

If you are on YouTube, and on Migro, then go check his top light for 2019 video, he rates all lights out of efficiency, then make up your mind from that, which will most probably be a QB or COB layout, at a push if you got energy to waste, you'll get a HPS. again my own opinion

#3 Autumn colors - what a magical plant.

Early morning sun after a week of miserable weather.

..and we are back ere'body! With a bit of revision and some lessons learnt from the last incomplete grow, I am on the way with Royal Gorilla as well as a Grandaddy Purple. Royal Queen Seeds - Royal Gorilla Green Smoke Room Seeds - Gran Daddy Purple The plan is to ditch the scrog idea from last time. It's such a mission when coupled with DWC, which I am going to keep, but instead of 15L cooler box reservoirs I am going big with 30L cooler box reservoirs. This should assist in flowering with not having to fill my reses every day..maybe now every 2-3 days. So in order to maximise yield minus the scrog, I'll do an 8 way manifold by topping each plant a total of three times and using low stress training to get as much spread as possible. The Gran Daddy Purple has a shorter flowering time than the Royal Gorilla, this will need to be kept in mind closer to the end of flowering. There is a possibility it will need to be harvested sooner than the Royal Gorilla. I do not want to sacrifice either to a shorter or longer harvest period than necessary. Each plant will be harvested when either is ready in their own time. Beginning the veg stage now, I intend to use the coming colder months closer to flowering to induce as much colour in the GDP as possible, genetics be willing. The Setup 80x80x180 Grow Tent 250W Quantum Board with Potentiometer and Current/Voltage Reader 2 x 30L DIY DWC Air pump + Air Stones Clip Fan Sonoff TH16 Wifi Switch + Temp/Humidity Sensor I have connected a Sonoff switch to the exhaust system which acts as a temp/humidity reader and can be used to automate the exhaust to operate depending on temp/humidity perimeters if need be. The device plus the sensor cost me R480. First Few Weeks of Veg Plant on the left is Royal Gorilla, plant on the right is GDP. Will update at major milestones

Greetings everyone, I have been a voyeur of this site for a while. I started growing indoors last year and slowly learning along the way. I like trying things people say you can'y or shouldn't do; so for my FIRST ever attempt at cloning I took a branch from my Auto amnesia haze from Fastbuds that was not receiving light. All i used was saliva as my cloning gel( I read somewhere that the enzymes of saliva softens the stem) Its been almost 3 weeks and she is doing well and better than I expected.

Looks good man, my next grow I will go with a soil mix, I just always have issues with bugs when using soil, I made a "super soil" for my girlfriend to grow veggies in a raised bed and she harvested tomatoes,chilies, lettuce, baby carrots and parsley and all she did was water.

If we're talking about growing cheaply in terms of actual cost to run a grow. I think hydro may be the cheapest. Water is practically free, nutes you barely use any only on a res change or the occasional tip up if the EC is dropping a bit too low. Equipment is typically a once off cost or will last you a good while at least, multiple grows. I feel coco is cheaper than soil due to the price of soil and the fact I can buy 5kg coco bricks and 100L of perlite for next to nothing. I personally wouldn't run a soil grow without providing nutes, I know some do and have seen a few grows on the forum as such although it's just not for me. Nutes for coco and soil are the same, you can get cheap ones and expensive ones. Same goes for hydro. Organic nutes such as Biobizz aren't all that cheap, but not terribly expensive either. You get expensive mineral nutes too. Equipment aside, I feel soil is actually the most expensive growing method and I also feel that'd why there has been so much marketing and buzz behind it. I started with soil and have since moved away from it. No regret from my side. It has its place for sure, although don't be fooled into thinking its cheap. Also when I was not correcting my pH with my organic grows, that is the only time I had nute lockout issues and that was corrected once I started correcting my pH levels. Often soil has amendments to help buffer the pH level but it does not mean you should not still check your feed and pH it. Depending on what nutes you're using with your soil, you'll still need an EC pen. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Free is free... Maybe take one of each and see how they go... Like @PsyCLownmentioned... You need to be concerned about how the seedlings will handle the craft coco.. I would get some jiffies for germination just in case

I enjoy my vehicles although have to hold myself back a bit and remind myself to be sensible. So I have a 750cc inline 4 bike and currently have a German 2L diesel car, which I wanna do a stage 1 or 2 on to help her breath a respond a bit better as well as do a software flash on the gearbox. In terms of bikes I do not do off road or dualies, I prefer more a sport tourer or sport bike as opposed to a super bike (super uncomfortable for daily commuting). Neither are over the top, although sufficient and can still allow for a bit of fun and can be seen as sensible. Would love a 3L diesel, the torque one can get from those is insane! I have heard of people having to limit the torque on their tune as their gearboxes can not handle more (auto's). Although a 3L twin turbo petrol would be lots of fun too, but really not something I need as a daily and would be more of a toy. Spending such money for a toy at this point is hard to justify. Same goes for my bike, would love to get something a litter bigger and newer, a BMW S1000R (single R, not RR) would be looovely but I really do not need it. Hard to justify spending the $$$. Never got into doing the mechanical work myself, never really had anyone to help me with it growing up and never had the space either - perhaps not such a bad thing though... Who knows what I may have gotten upto. I almost ended up with a Civic Type-R (FN2), nice cars but forced induction is a lot more fun.

Bring it on, I'll rock anything sent with a smile and feel very blessed.

how about simple organic soil? Is the most simple grow medium as the soil buffers.

Made an order with them

I could send you a parts list bro, if you can source the parts and get someone to drill all the holes, bam, you got yourself a press at half the price. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

this kinda helped a lot

Seems as if Taurus is n bunch of stoners..

I've also used them, first order did not arrive but a replacement was shipped without any problems. They've been around for quite some time Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Clone mart? Gave them a google but couldn't find anything.

Mhhh Autos and cloning are not really something to do ^^ you can't stop their timer.. she will follow her program and will stay rather small. Clones you take from photo plants as you can make them change yourself, autos you have zero control over. Nice done.. but wrong type of plant.. don't expect much.

come up with underwatering

I used the 144 a few times before.. I thought the lamp consumes a lot more power as it actually does.. that gave me the idea. Knowing what i got before, batch of Blue Cheese and White Widows gave around 50g a plant. If I reach the usual number.. 8 x 50.. I will not complain but I had those running on 20/4... so lets see where it will go. I kinda like the 24/0 in winter.. no cold issues what so ever.

Looking tasty, how's her smell?

Hey All, I'm new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself and hopefully share my experience with you all, and would like to go on your adventures with you too. This is my second proper go at this, learning every day and always open to advise or critique. Nice to meet everyone and be here, Have a dank day y'all

As of yet, I've only flowered with half the light and just added the second last week or so. Have got around 80 - 120 a plant with the one light in a cupboard of 1.5x0.6m in size and 8 plants in there...lol. was my first proper grow after 1 sort of half arse grow before with no ph checking and got locked out, learnt lots since then. Thank you for the kind words again.

Dusted off the 'ol DSLR and took some vanity shots of the ladies. Also wanted to get a closer look at the colours and trichome development. I like the colour coming from the GDP. The Royal Gorilla still has work to do. GDP RQS

Look, end of the day the only person who has commented in this thread who may have something to gain would be Master G and that'd if you were to purchase one of his lights. His lights are simply quantum boards with lm301b diodes and there are other local suppliers you can purchase such quantum boards from. However in terms of pricing his are the cheapest I have seen locally. You can also get led strips with good quality diodes if you'd like. Don't feel pressurised to buy from Master G specifically or to get quantum boards. What you should want to do is get lights with good quality diodes and I feel everyone in this thread who has recommended LED lights is basically saying the same thing. Led strips can be purchased from websites such as Arrow and Digikey. They offer prices in ZAR but the items are not stocked locally so custom charges are applicable. You'll then also need to get heatsinks to mount them onto (I have some for sale, alternatively you could get from Builders or similar). Also keep in mind you'll still need a power supply (LED driver) to power the lights. So add up the costs of the led strips and the other components required to put it together. Then go and look at the cost of other quantum boards available locally and check with Master G on the pricing of his quantum boards and see what may be the best for you. Alternatively if your budget does not allow for such lights at the moment, then you'll need to compromise and get something which you are able to afford and later on you can consider getting better lights. You'll still be able to grow cannabis with that blurple light from Snatcher and other similar lights from futurama and takealot etc. You'll get bud and it will be decent and get you high. Although it won't be as efficient as better quality lights and the bud quality may be slightly lower but depending on what you're used to smoking it could be on the same level or even higher quality bud than what you're used to. If you already smoke good indoor, it could be on the same level or slightly lower. If you're used to outdoor, it could be higher quality. Hard to say. I hope this clears things up, don't feel pressure to buy what we suggest from who we suggest. We're just trying to help guide you to ensure you get great value for money as most of us have done the research already and looked at the various options. End of the day, the equipment you purchase and how your grow does honestly makes no difference to me (don't mean that in a bad or nasty way). :D Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

To reach plant density and potency, you have to provide energy and building material. If you are saving on your energy source, results will suffer, what ever you feed them. Same goes the other way, you can have a top energy source and feed them hopes and dreams.. will not work. I understand and like your opinion on things you hear... that is good for politics and general gossip when we go growing, the internet is full of peoples experiences.. if you want to make all those yourself, will take a bit and a long learning curve. If you simply listen to the people, your rate of success will increase rather drastically Nobody in here gives bad advise on purpose. If you invest a little more.. you get a lot more out.

Lol I really appreciate all your answer and and advice ...Sorry for all the stupid questions but I dont believe in just buying something just because someone said its better, I like to understand what I am getting and why im getting it over another product(for example went to futurama and got suggested the CFL light which turns out is not a good option thanks to the info you guys gave me) I completely understand you guys are really good growers and you have perfected your craft but Im new and know nothing more than what a bunch of internet pages tells and the guy at a store just trying to sell me something that's why I joined the forum

This post should be pinned for all newcomers

Entry #4 two headed skunk top view

If you want you can pm me your address and I can drop a pack of papers tomorrow during the day/morning. I can leave it in the post box.

Preflower enhances. EC raised to 2.0, I am overall happy with the ladies. This is my favourite time of the grow. All the training is done, preflower has begun and to watch the daily development of the buds is really exciting.

I decided on doing the flip today Did another defoliation in preparation and there is good light penetration throughout the plants. I took a brix reading again, ladies are still sitting at around a brix level of 5. So far in veg I've only recorded a measurement of 5 throughout. I am expecting it to rise as the preflower stage begins. Before Defoliation After Defoliation

Got some more pics for you @PsyCLown. Leaving the switch to after the weekend. Also bumped the EC up to 1.1 and running the LED at just below 200W. It was suggested to me to run at 160W during grow and flower but I want to see what the extra oomph will do. Honestly just kinda playing around.

I am busy trying to decide when to make the flip. I can make the flip anytime from now and I'd be happy with the yield. Both plants are fully mature, however I foresee a potential problem and that is the heights of the to plants. The Royal Gorilla is much more short and stout than the GDP. My thinking is to maybe flip tomorrow to limit the amount of stretch the GDP will have over the Royal Gorilla. They will never be at level canopy height, so inevitably the GDP will get more light than the Royal Gorilla at the end. This may have convinced me to keep the same strain in small tents like this if one is going to do more than one plant. Going to think on it for the day then make the call tomorrow.

Took an opportunity to take a pic of the manifold of each plant so far. I am very happy with the initial structure. They will be expected to hold up 8 mighty colas each RQS GDP

Worked a bit on the reservoirs today. Keeping the GDP at it's current happy level of 0.4 EC and now that the Royal Gorilla has recovered I am going to raise the EC to match the GDP at 0.4 EC. Also took some big fan leaves off both plants which were blocking some growth nodes. Pictures below also give an idea of what it looks like when I need access to the reservoir water.

Pre-Training Got a good response from the Royal Gorilla and sufficient growth from both plants to do the toppings today and some defoliation. Post-Training Had to swap out the twisty ties on the Royal Gorilla with some sturdier coated wire to hold down the low stress training. The Royal Gorilla is developing some really thick beefy stems and growth points, shorter and thicker than the GDP, both training very well right. From here it's a matter of maintaining the spread and training of the plants as they get sturdier and bigger, occasional defoliation and keeping them happy. It's up from here! Royal Gorilla: GDP:

I am not liking what's going on with the Royal Gorilla. She isn't handling the rise in EC as well as the GDP. I believe she is suffering from an early onset of nitrogen toxicity which has developed into a minor case. I did a reservoir flush on both plants by first adding GHE FloraKleen to the reservoirs for 24hrs and then flushing and reseting them with new nutes and RO water. I have also dropped the EC on the Royal Gorilla. Sitting at an EC of 0,2 just until I feel it is ready again to rise the EC. GDP is sitting at an EC of 0.6 and is loving it. Plants should have enough growth by tomorrow or Sunday for the next topping and defoliation. Should also see a response from the Royal Gorilla in that time but I do not expect the current growth to recover. I will be mostly looking at the colour and speed of the new growth and then adapt from there. Once the old growth is defoliated at the time of topping the response should be a bit more clear.

I decided to cut the first large fan leaves off tonight. They just looked so jutt. I believe I definitely pushed the EC on the seedlings a bit too high at first. The Royal Gorilla hasn't quite recovered as well as the GDP. I am getting slightly more stretch on the GDP, and some thick beefy joints on the Royal Gorilla. The manifold foundations are building up nicely, looking forward to the potential weight they will hold These leaves looked monstrous to me on such short plants. Otherwise, still on track to top at the end of the week.

Chop chop I like to leave a nice chunk behind after a top. The growth node becomes nice and beefy which helps the plant support itself later just before harvest when the buds are their ripest. Took another reading with the refractometer. The Royal Gorilla measured in at 9 and the GDP at 7. So we have an increase since the last measurement. Will be some time till another measurement is taken. The next topping will be between the 3rd and 4th nodes of each of the two stems now growing on each plant. The 2nd nodes will be removed as well at the time of topping. Now we wait until the stems are long enough to slowly start low stress training (LST). At the rate the plants are growing, I'd say training will start in two days.

Was going to do the first topping tonight but the plants looked a little sulky since the defoliation yesterday so I checked everything and it seemed all was within limits but by chance I discovered the pH pen was not accurate. Gave it a collaboration and decided to just reset the res with some fresh water and nutes as well as bump the EC up slightly. Got myself a brix meter and have been playing around with it on some tomato plants recently. Decided to use it on the current grow and start recording the brix of these two plants at certain intervals. Brix can fluctuate during the day, before and after feeds, or in retaliation to stress. I'll be using it to determine general health of the plants as well as their reactions to reservoir changes. I took a measurement of the brix when I did the first few cuts the last update and I recorded a measurement of 5. We are aiming to get that above 12 at peak veg and as far into the 20's in flower. It is said that a brix level of above 12 means your plant will be resistant to disease and pests and will be overall healthy. A brix level of above 20+ is said to create almost crystal-like trichomes on your buds. So let's measure and see what happens

I plan to top in-between nodes 3 and 4. I want to grow out the 3rd node on each plant as the main stems, and then do further toppings to get a total of 8 main stems for each plant. I will also attempt to get this 8-way manifold to be as initially flat as possible for support of the final buds and spread for yield. Tonight I decided to take off some of the bottom growth so the plants focus on growing everything above for now. I will top when the 3rd growth nodes have a bit more established growth to work with. ..I also didn't like how droopy the one looked so it was an aesthetic decision as well

There should be a Pratley store in every major city. Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

Fire in, fire out

Yes they do its in the South, I've dealt with Hydro herb and Zane before, he is the biggest shill out there. I avoid him like the plague.

You're right about the average. I can believe 1000 PPFD at 45cm. (But 1000 PPFD at 1m is unlikely, regardless how accurate the PAR meter is.)