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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/19/2020 in Posts
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You can re~use your soil. In the US the guys would test their soil after every grow and re~amend accordingly. On the scale that we grow I dont think it makes sence. I would find a good quality compost(vermicompost) and add some kelp meal and basalt rock dust(turbogrow). Maybe some alfalfa meal as atop dressing. You really only need to amend your soil once a year or every second grow. All my 50~70l bags have got something else growing in them atm.6 points
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I don't agree with you on this statement. If you grow organicly why would you destroy all the micro organism that you worked so hard cultivating during the season? I use organic cultivation methods indoors and you must manage the pests accordngly by having an IPM system.5 points
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So to understand what you are doing with topping, you need to remember that even though the plant is alive, you aren't chopping off its head with this maneuver lol. There is no hard and fast rule as to where you must top... This comes with experience... One day you will just walk by and realize a lady needs a snip and just do it! You can top the plant right down to the first node if you really wanted to... Don't... But I'm just saying it would be fine... The trick comes more about which lower nodes have decent enough shoots, you want to make your snip as low as you can! Without cutting off the lower stems you want to promote. So even if the nodes alternate like you are experiencing, you are just looking for lower growth that looks good enough to become a main Cola... And that method you have about topping at the 5th node is wrong... Or atleast the way you interpret it is wrong. On a seed grown plant, you would want to wait for the plant to have atleast 5 nodes, before topping the plant.... Likely at the 3rd node or lower even, depending how the lower growth has grown. Lemi know if this has helped you alil and feel free to ask questions to gain a better understanding. And don't worry about killing them... As long as you leave a leaf or 3 on the cutting.... The plant will survive4 points
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Thanks all. i ran into major issues last night which turned out to be my 320w. it seems to be overloading my power somehow and then yeah all hell breaks loose and my lighting schedule has been interrupted for 3 days now. i didnt know because the tripping of the light happens irregularly. and disables my wifi timer whcih doesnt automatically switch on. this now means that i need to remove some lights. (i suspect im pulling more amps than my line is allowing me to) So whats the future of my pretty buds looking like? probably goung to get hermies. so ill be picking seeds out of something i guess. install a power regulator so that when shit kicks in it doesnt overload the powerline. remove some light. i mean who needs to grow under 1040w. im sure i can have a nice grow under 720w aswell. i will be rebuilding my grow room soon some pics of what i think im.about to loose to hermies4 points
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I've found that my re-used soil seems even more alive than the initial soil. Like you say the micro-organisms cultivate as you let the used soil sit. I take all my used soil, throw it all together in a semi open container outside, chuck in a few earthworms and let nature do its wonder work4 points
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I would happily offer to be the tester/judge for the KZN competitors... send me your indoor guys4 points
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Greetings Fam. There isn't much happening in the tent but the buds have started to pack on some weight. I fed them a day or 2 ago and rigged together a magnetic stirrer to put into the new CO2 generator bottle, I hooked it up to the light timer. This way it increases CO2 production during the light cycle by lightly stirring the solution and stops once the lights go out. As a separate project, I made a wing reflector out of a can and mounted 2 HID LED car headlights on it. I have it in a Microgrow box that I'll reveal to you guys in a separate thread. The entire system is 12V and runs off a PC power supply. Anyway, here are some pictures of what the Inzane tree looks like right now. The Frost is real, lol4 points
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Good Day All, New to everything, starting to setup a small indoor grow tent. Bought some items over last couple months to have a basic setup. Tried to so some homework , watching YouTube video`s etc,,,,,,,, Here to get some guidance , build some knowledge and see if i can at least be successful with my first attempt.3 points
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Welcome [emoji868], you will find loads of info and options here and you can't go wrong and nice that you did some research on your own also. I have grown a few times with FF formula one and GHE, what I have done is to bump my tap water to 0,2-0,3 EC with Calsium Nitrate (think Epsom does the same but I have no experience with that), after the tap water bump I add the veg recommendations up to 0,5-0,8 EC in early veg and in full veg to 1 EC. Keep us posted and add pics as you go along Good vibes Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk3 points
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My organic soil mix, developed over about 10 years of side by side tests. I'm from KZN so the sources are found closest to me here that I have added. Per 1000 litres mix you will need the following core ingredients: 400 litres of flushed expanded coco coir. Always flush more than you think you need to... (coco helps with the cation exchange capacity and adds a sponge effect to the medium allowing moisture to be spread out more equally, i use this coco) 300 litres of perlite. (along with the coco this is the main source of storing oxygen in the medium, i get mine from here or here) 150 litres of quality moist black worm castings. (The main component of the nutrients for the mix come from the worm castings, it is broad spectrum NPK and micronutrients, i get mine from here or here) 150 litres of quality compost. (if contains manure - use only 20% or lower manure content, can be mushroom compost or wood chips + manure etc. i get mine from here) Per 1000 litres mix you will need the following amendments: 500g of Talbourne Organics 2-3-2 (I use this as the main source of phosphorous instead of bone meal but it has all NPK and micro nutrients also. Very good product. Get the non pelleted version, their website) 2kg of Dolomite lime (main source of calcium and magnesium while also stabilizing pH, can get it at most nurseries or garden shops) 1kg of Rock dust (Turbo grow - source of micro nutrients) 1kg of Diatomaceous earth (the silica breaks down over time adding strength to plant cell structures, making stems stronger and leaves glossy. i get mine here) 200g of Cricket frass (contains high amount of calcium carbonate and iron, i get mine here) Liquid feeds that work well with this mix: Fish emulsion (Seagro brand has very low pH which is useful to bring down tap water that is higher than 6.5pH) Seaweed extract (The auxins and cytokinins help to de-stress plants and give life back to stunted or shocked plants, can increase internode lengths and delay onset of flowering) Biobizz bloom (I don't really use this anymore but can be useful to boost flowering plants without adding nitrogen) Biobizz grow (contains mostly fermented sugar beets and molasses, good to feed the soil microbes in light dilutions) Biobizz fish mix (pH corrected fish emulsion with molasses, I prefer to use the Seagro brand for the acidity) This mix is not a super soil so depending on the container or hole size that you use for a single plant, you may need to add liquid feed after 4-5 weeks of growth to support hungry plants, but you will be not adding much since majority of the nutrients are in the soil. Keeping the pH between 5.9 and 6.6 seems to have best results. Feed plants only plain water for about three weeks prior to harvest for the cleanest best tasting end product. Edit: to answer OP's question of reusing soil. I think that a proper made organic soil gets better over time because the larger particle sizes are broken down over time by the microbes and are more available to the plant for uptake. But I generally do add a bit of worm castings + dolomite lime + talbourne 2-3-2 for reusing the same soil that has grown plants in already, guessing how much is a bit of an art. My soil that I am using now has been grown in about 10 times and still very good.3 points
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When you say garden soil I assume you mean garden master, culterra and all that shite. By all means don't use that soil. You won't find a good soil for cannabis at most nurseries or builders warehouse. You'll need to look to a grow shop for a commercially available soil for cannabis, that works. I mix my own and every grower should have a crack at mixing their own soil at some time in their growing. You may find yourself not turning back3 points
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Controversial one that... sterilizing an organic soil is the last thing I would suggest to be honest. I would rather suggest using an IPM to control any pests or bad fungus. Depends on your preferences of course but personally I feel sterilizing the soil is setting you back3 points
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I read a nice blog on the RQS website this week. It is all about soil mixes for autoflowers. It kind of gives my theory some backing atm. Will post a link when i find it again. My biggest Autoflowers to date.3 points
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Welcome and Happy Growing. Share with us the details, would be nice to help get you a good start. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk3 points
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Hi guys. just thought I’d drop you guys this info for great seeds, it’s been a mission finding a good bank out there and I trust you guys will find this one to be top class. I have no affiliation to the bank at all it’s just great service and great seeds. They agents for Dinfem and Humboldt seeds in SA. website is Overgrow and their email is info@overgrow.co.za website: https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za2 points
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Hi fellow growers, I started growing cannabis around 10 years ago. Back then I still lived at a place where outdoor growing wasn't an option due to the short summer, so I started off with indoor soil grows. However I moved to SA about 8 years ago and started growing outdoors as nothing beats the South African sun (yes it's possible to grow awesome weed outdoors ). So far I tried to keep it as organic as possible growing in soil and using Biobizz. I grow Autoflowering and photoperiod strains. For the next outdoor season I plan to create my own super soil. I have read up on this topic a lot but I hope I'll find some good information on here too. I just got my own worm farm and started a compost heap. Looking forward to be part of this community. Fridgedoor2 points
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I ordered from them 2 years ago when they were still known as Medical Marijuana Seeds SA. They delivered within a week at the time. It was recent that they came out as "Overgrow". I believe they are still providing a decent service. I will probably be buying seeds from them next as I'd like a Dinafem seed again or try out Humboldt for the first time. I know they give you the original packaging from the breeders which is always a plus. Edit: I noticed there is another site with a very similar url to Overgrow; https://www.cannabisseed.co.za/. The only difference is an 's' at the end. Kinda dodgy me thinks.2 points
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@Newbe_2020 Also for humidity for germination you need it above 70% for best results. Dont oversoak the Jiffy, make sure its damp thats all!2 points
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@Newbe_2020 WHats up bro! Good luck with your setup! Let us know how it goes and even start a grow diary here on the forum! Just shout if you need any information!2 points
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Thanks buddy. I came across SOG while researching lights. Really got me interested. As mentioned I am a novice on indoor so trying different methods in a small space then converting my garage in 2 months or so. Gonna need a ton of help then.2 points
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Hi, I wish you good luck with germinating your seed. I only use the jiffy pellets and it always worked out for me (and I don't even PH the water). I'm sure you'll see it sprouting soon.2 points
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Thanks All, So below is some info on my setup. I created a small propagation dome , with a small heat pad to assist with the germination process. I have tried to germinate one seed bought from Biltong and bugz using Rockwool but it failed to germinate. Seed was left in ph`d water over night, and placed in rock-wool using info i read on you tube. I initially thought the temperature or humidity was at fault , but closely inspecting the seed it was very soft and the contents of the seed was like a white past, so i think the rock wool was too wet. I did not add any water and i added so other none weed seeds into the dome which germinated perfectly, so the other thought could be that the seed was a dud. So as it stand Im attempting to do my second seed, this time using a Jiffy pellet and regulating the temperature and humidity more carefully. trying to keep the temperate between 21.5 and 23 and humidity between 50 -60%. Today is day 2, Im keeping a eye on it daily and had to water the pellet this morning as it was drying out a bit. Feeling more comfortable with this attempt so hope it works. I am using ph`d water of around 5.6 , hope its ok. Reflective Indoor Grow Tent - 60 x 60 x 140cm From Seedleme.com HZ-100 Silent Series inline Fan (100mm, 2 speed From Seedleme.com 1/8″ ROPE RATCHET From Seedleme.com CAN-Lite 150 PL Carbon Filter hydroponic.co.za Freedom Farms Formula 1 Growing Medium hydroponic.co.za Jiffy Pellets hydroponic.co.za Freedom Pots hydroponic.co.za LED Full Spectrum LED Light (Import) Not sure of watts Unknown General Hydroponics Flora Series Nutrient Kit Futurama Got Small fan , humidifier and heater if needed PH UP, PH Down, Kelp2 points
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Backing up potential. Fruitpunch and Pineapple Express. The selected moms are showing promise.2 points
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Clones are a bit different to starting seeds as you are basically growing a branch of a plant. The growth is not symmetrical. My suggestion is to just top the plant. See which 2 branches grows the strongest and top those 2 branches again. Clean up all the rest of the branches and make more clones. Give some to friends.2 points
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I have seen really good results with Just Cannabis soil. I have seen the pics of the owners grow this last season. Very impressed. Will be testing it myself on yhe next autoflower run.2 points
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What’s up guys! So just a little update. I will begin some LST training next week some time as the ladies are looking beautiful!2 points
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I've had good results reusing my living soil without feeding. I didn't re-amend as well... but it depends on the soil of course @SkunkPharm is spot on2 points
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Yea man! Ofcoarse you can reuse your grow meduim! But I would maybe buy a new cycle of soil if you want and put your used soil in a pile and re-ammend them with various things. Let it sit for a the whole grow, and then you could use it for your next grow, doing the same with your newer soil. @SkunkPharm knows his shit, maybe he can help out2 points
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A gift from @Cannabist A 5 pack of Harlequin Fast Fem 5:2 CBD Super fresh viable seeds, breaking the surface overnight. And off they go... Transplant time Into solo cups they go... Now it's time to start feeding a little so they continue with this early momentum.2 points
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Aweh fellow greenfingers. Just finished jarring the last of the late summer outdoor. Now we trying winter. 1/2. Purple Russian Express lady getting lekker. GDP x White Russian. 3/4. Seedsman Purple bud going pistils. 5-7. Some Winter Fruitpunch pheno hunting going on. 8-9. Pheno hunting ''spoils of war'' Not making the the cut doesn't mean they won't be enjoyed. 10. Fruitpunch potential. Puff, puff pass.....2 points
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So my clones have been growing for 11 days now since i got them from the grower. On this grow i want to at least top them twice this might be a stupid question but from what I've seen and heard im supposed to top them when they reach 5 nodes(please correct me if im wrong) but with normal grow from seed the grow is even but with clones im unsure because there is just 1 node on each side sometimes so does is count a node or only half a node ? Also if you if you top you stop the growth of the tap root ? and lastly where the do you top them cause some people say you just remove the middle part of the top growth and others cut it just a few cm above the the node below it so very unsure about how to as I really don't want to kill them ?1 point
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So seeing that i deleted all my posts as it had added 0 value to the site, i decided to do a new diary woth more useless information that will be of no use to any of you. Strain Names : Bud Bud Bling Tingz - Dr Krippling Tropicanna Rose - Worlds strongest strains Slurrijug - (no clue if it is oni maybe) Citradellic Sunset - Ethos Genetics Lumpy Space Princess - Solfire Gardens Mc Slurry - Worlds strongest strains Triple scoop - DNA Genetics I have popped the Tropicanna rose and the bud bud bling tings. and i am running a test. (non scientific and totally dumb move but i have enough tents and lights to mesa around with) so the Vegging Cycle is 12 on 5.5 off 1 on. 5.5 off. the flowering schedule will start at 11on 13 off and will drop weekly by 30mins till i get to 8on 16 off. i am vegging under a 240w unidentified light manufactured on the moon. (dont ask) @ 3000k because i wanna veg under 3000k. no reds as its not really needed under the light. for flowering i will be scrogging all the plants however im wating for my current flowering tent to finish. i will be replacing my Samsung 320w and 240w with more unidentified Led grow lights. i have been testing the lights over the last grow and i am very happy with the results i get from this. below is a Bud that has 4 weeks left till completion under this alien light. So lets see how my little project go. i got 1.3 grams per watt on my previous scrog grow under 240w. so the idea is to see if i can get more than 1.3g using this unidentified light and my the 12:1 growing style. ok let the Slaughter begin.1 point
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Someone posted on cannabisclubsa a while ago that they are not sure if the seeds they got from there were fake or real. I’m not sure which they ordered from. 2 strains in one pack and strain names written in. No sealed barcode either.1 point
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Sooo ^^ I continue this one.. and was half the day preparing the battle of the boards My main focus is this one: I do not look for more yield, I would like to reduce my energy consumption and have the same yield. Based on that, I decided to let 3 QBs 288 IM301H with 125 Watt.. I didn't measure that today, had a issue with the wifi and busy enough. I get the proper numbers over a smart plug tomorrow. But lets run factory.. 125 Watt a board, 375 Watt on the QBs against the 450 Watt (also using the number from the smart plug, same source of error). 75 Watt less on a 1.2x1.2 area, I would enjoy that. The TS3000 is a finished product, so it will compete as it is. The QBs i build into 4 lamps, 3 will go into the battle ^^ Those lamps I hang spread over the canape. To get fair numbers, I measured the lamps on the same black non reflective surface with different hanging distance to fixed raised spots to eliminate any ground light wash. I used 30, 45, 50, 60 70 cm distances and leveled lamps. The first I learned is that I was so completely wrong about my hanging distance, rather shocked I got those 976g per m2 I was WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY to close. Damn.. that quantum flux meter is a eye opener. Mars tells you to put the TS3 on 30-45 cm for flowering.. no ^^ don't do that. Go 75 cm distance for veg and 60cm for flower.. rest is waste and to narrow foot print. If you use a CO2 generator.. crank it up if you go on 30 cm 1280 micromol... Big BADA BUM The QBs will go 65cm for Veg and 50cm for Flower. They are 80 micromol weaker spread over the canape, but we still talk 75 watt less. So this could be a very interesting compare. I let 3 strains run and will have spares to make swaps for genetic lower plants. I try to be as fair as I can be. Both sets will get bottom feeding over a 1.2x1.2 tray. Biggest harvest over all strains wins.. i dropped the seeds today As my Fastbuds seeds are with the Post Office ^^ and I am bored. I went Nirvana seeds.. Bubblelicious, Blue Cheese, Blueberry Kush.. all autos what else!1 point
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Was all day busy.. but here we go on the Gorilla Journey.. and just to mention.. feeding all three days and rest I do not really give a damn zero effort grow. Ohhh I raised the lights.. that is now daily on the list. Day 1 Week 6 Added the movie. You see that I moved the plants and changed the light distance twice. That is it...1 point
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Haha, I should really put this into a separate thread for all the newcomers, now that I'm reading it again. Edit: I'll have a dry weight of my quadlined tree in about 6 weeks to compare to the mainlined one. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk1 point
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No problem bro, I'm glad to help. Okay so here goes... Once you've considered of all that I've mentioned before , then you don't have much else to decide. LST works well, but it takes a lot of patience... Even when using it even with FIMing, it isn't the most effective. This is because you still have to, in a way, let the plant grow normally and constantly train it to fit your space FIMing your tree will just give you more branches to train. The next 2 methods I'm going to mention are ways of making the plant grow into your space, which requires minimal training and even less once you flip to flower. Mainlining a tree requires less patience, and a bit more confidence when using this method because you will have to use some heavy HST with LST. I've used a slight variation of this on my last grow. I came out with about 204g of top shelf bud off a single tree (in a 70cm x 70cm tent). "Quadlining" has been coming up more recently and I've done this on a Microgrow I had running a while ago. You don't remove as much plant material as the previous method but the results are pretty similar. It requires slightly less time than Mainlining but also works well on maximizing yield... I was able to get 40g from 1sq ft off a single, small tree. This method doesn't produce as uniform buds as mainlining but it's still worth trying. My Inzane tree is quadlined... I'm going back to mainlining from the next grow. Both these methods were effective at creating an even canopy with minimal LST and without the need of a net/trellis, but they do involve HST which means you will have recovery periods that add to your total length of the grow. Overall about a week extra veg. I haven't tried any other methods, but from my understanding; ScrOG is one of the most effective at getting a maximum yield as this is a more controlled way of creating an even canopy and involves using a rigid screen through which you weave the tree as it grows. This makes maximum use of your space as you can decide what size grid to use and when you think its packed enough to flower. This method comes at the cost of a long veg time and regular maintenance, due to having to check which tops are growing pass the others and getting others in optimal positions. This is a bit impractical though once it gets to larger spaces. I'm not sure what other yield boosting techniques are commonly used but IMO; I think you're better off running your trees with the mainlining technique. Do some searching on Google to see how each of the methods work and how the trees grow, then see which one you'd feel comfortable doing. Everyone has their own preference but from my experience, mainlining is the way. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk1 point
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CalMag is most often a premixed calcuim nitrate magnesium sulphate Are you referring to calmag? Or where do you get your calcium nitrate separate?1 point
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Yeah hahah I'm not an expert in anything, infact this thread goes to show just how clueless I am. Trying to find the right answers, though. I'm talking to some people, but trying to find the right people to have the right kinda convo with. I believe some synthetics might have reactions with eachother and even so with some of the organic matter and this might be a problem in some cases. I don't see any problem doing full ass, would you say that using synthetic nutes in soil is going half ass? I guess that is another big part of the question, using synthetics in soil, do the plants still get fed? I just can't think why it would be acceptable for big production farms to do it, but for us in pots with a plant for 3/4 months it's frowned upon. At the end of the day I am the FULL ASS organic kinda guy hahahah!1 point
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Thanks, will do i have pushed the humidity to above 60% will monitor and take it from there.1 point
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Nice bud bro! I agree with CreX. It was also nice seeing the different builds you did with your lights. I'm planning to order a fixture for a friend of mine once she gets the rest of stuff. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk1 point
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[emoji23][emoji23] Damn now I'm gonna be doing it too. I enjoyed the movies Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk1 point
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For me, because im not a soil expert and I dont have the time and space to do soil tea etc, i thought I rather FULL ASS synthetic nutes then HALF ASS organic nutes lol I made peace with the fact that my synthetic plants need a flush once every 2 weeks aswell to flush out extra nutes.You can see nute salts easily on top of the coco. As for your last paragraph, I cant answer that.They was a guy on here that had immense knowledge of soil microbes,cant remember his name. If someone told you to stay away from doing this - its the safest answer.Its not correct and there are many factors influencing this but its a safe answer.1 point
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Iv found jiffies very forgiving... I use straight tap water with the jiffies, unphed even... And leave the seeds... So far iv had 99% success.... It would be higher... But I was impatient and started digging around and I damaged a taproot... So now I set em and leave em.... And make sure the bowl has water in it so the jiffies don't dry out1 point
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How many people competing you think they get? Might be a great solution to stock yourself up. ^^ If you put for 50k prices out and have 2kg weed send to you you made a killer income.. and lets face it, people send you their best Might be a great idea.. stop growing and just organize a Cannabis Cup each year to stock up again1 point
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