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@zolrooker that is 3 weeks old, minus 3 days to sprout.

Lets get quickly a bit science into this, might help a lot of the new folks reading this understand. Light is the main ingredient beside water. To little or to much of both will hurt or kill your plant. A plant with perfect light and lower quality fertilizer will still out perform a plant under low light and pro fertilizer. The plants have three stages with different light demand. For indoor growing, to much is more often the danger during early stages. Germination and seedlings need around 250 micromol PAR light for perfect growing. Veg they perform best with about 500 micromol PAR light. You can also go up in stages during Pre but I usually just go full. Full means 1000 micromol PAR.. that seems to be the max the Cannabis plants can handle with the usual CO2 concentration and no, didn't grew on my shit ^^, I read that up, Apogee made some extensive studies on that topic. Over 1000 micromol PAR you need to add a CO2 generator to have profits. So you would just waste the energy without it. Grow light producers do those measurements and tell you how high to hang for the stages. If they don't provide a germination distance, just use the same distance they reduce for Flower and add that to Veg distance. To much isn't the best for the youngsters. But in general they provide Veg and Flower distance. If you never grew before and get no indication what to do.. will not add to a satisfying outcome. Indoor, nothing has more importance then your light!! Is also the most expensive.. so you better do your home work, if you do not buy from a known producer. If you order yourself and want to DIY.. those boards have several options, you go for the 3000k 660nm or 3500k 660nm version. I perfer the 3000k, others the 3500k.. read up.. you learn quite some on the way till you order your first gear. If you are not in the mood to read up... do yourself a favor and buy off the shelf a known and tested product. Will help your yield if you know how to handle the lamps. Rest is a bit a mine field of frustration. Not all of the stuff the guys sell is crap.. they just seem to have ordered a bunch of boards and thought all can get used to grow.. the UV boards would work too.. you would just waste the energy for the UV diodes.. as that helps nothing with your plants. If you switch a 450 Watt lamp on for growing, you go 1000 Rand Eskom on top of your usual bill (light will make heat, air needs to get moved). So wasting energy shouldn't be on your list.. the indoor setup will get over taken by the Eskom bill within a year. Is not just the gear.. the gear will constantly cost you money. When you have a 600 Watt lamp in and just let her "shine".. you waste 300 Rand a month on a 1.2x1.2 area. Saving now.. might not be the big saving at the end of the year. The more efficient you can run your lamp(s).. the cheaper you get out of this experience. For a total beginner, outdoor first to see if you don't kill all green things.. if you have a good outdoor result, indoor should work fine, if you give it the same attention. It just comes with way more cost compared to outdoor growing. So fuck ups indoor.. cost more. Buying the wrong gear will actually hinder you making progress. If your Lamp has a dimmer.. you will have issues to set it correctly without a quantum flux meter. Most lamp producers have em set on max and so set their distance to hang.. but if you get a lamp with a dimmer. You enter the world of guessing without a tool costing the same as your lamp. Keep that in mind if you go high performance lamps.. those all have a dimmer in general.

Murphy's Law, 3 seeds to get 1 plant... Then you get that joint above, burnt and smoked, and then still comes out like The Undertaker from his coffin on WWE. And while looking into my glass ball, haha, I meant bong, I see this new life starting to rise from the dead like Stefano Dimera from Bold and Beautiful More lols

Isn't formula 1 coco with some amendments? Not quite the same as their classic soil which is a bit closer to a living soil with microbes and such? I could be wrong though. Curious as to what difference you'll notice, if any. I personally would rather stick with coco, synthetic nutes and add things such as microbe inoculations (gotta ensure there is something in your medium for the microbes to breakdown though), mycorrhizal fungi, teas etc. With coco being an inert medium, I believe the microbes won't care much for it, I have no way of proving this though. If one were to reuse coco from a grow, there'd be roots left in the coco still and I'd imagine that to suffice and not be a bad thing. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I do agree fully there, and have when using jiffy pellets, gotten 100% success rate with seeds and clones. But got the rockwool starters for a clone project, and thought while I had them I'd use them for the seeds. Next time, jiffy pellets or straight in as you suggest to the home. Much safer and simplest way. Oh yes, all 50 odd clones I did last month in the rockwool, came out 100% success so thought seeds would be good...lol.

Happy growing..

I sort the plants and distribute to each section, QB and TS3.. curious if the QBs can match a TS3 But I should have enough to choose from and make a even distribution of good genetics. If you ask yourself, what is the spray bottle doing there.. I use it to easier feed (Root Juice, BioBizz, 4ml/L) the back rows. The Arena

Hi guys. Hope your all well and staying warm. I was hoping someone could help with what may seem a simple question is actually probably an in depth topic about soil, coco and then organic or synthetic? Many opinions out there and very valid ones from like professors in soil biology and master growers. A lot of learning down this road. I’ve never used or grown in soil, for some reason the topic or understanding the bio life behind soil seems challenging, even choosing the correct soil or from who do you soil, just a few minutes of reading through soil and specialists topics on good soil and organic teas! It all sounds fantastic and I’m so for the organic way but I’m just not lus to learn it, it seems so much more complicated than my GHE nutrients and my coco perlite holstered with my PH and E.C. pen! Yes there are down side to both grow mediums and positives. Dunno, am I missing out on something for a kak reason like I’m not lus! So I thought I’d go against my lazy self and start small, the idea and looking into this has already existed me, I look forward to learning and growing as a grower. And this is where I need to ask your guys help and options if you think this a good simple start for my first go at organic nutrients. I’ve heard and been told guys get great results with the following buuuut I’m sure there is more to it. I’ll start with changing nutrients first and work to soil after a grow with organic nutrients I thought? Not that I’m aiming to be doing teas and putting my own soil mix together. Hectic! Anyway this is it, this is what I have...... freedom farm Formula One only afternoon about 3weeks in veg (from seed, transplanted into freedom farm formula one after germination About 3 weeks after popping) there after Biobizz bio grow - high in veg Low in flowering Biobizz bio bloom high in flowering low in veg work the two nutrients chance according to growth stage. so if someone out there is just brain farting on the couch like me and reading this, and has the energy to reply dude. If there is anything I can tell you, please do ask, I’ll try give you what ever info you may need to better point out the way I should be going? Cheers guys! Stay blessed!

You typically have your dehumidifier in the room where you pulling air from, this way your air going into the tent / room get the perfect RH. and dont need to clog your grow space up with it.

Woop woop it's da police

Wired up temperature controller and planted the seeds. Sitting at around 60% humidity and 24 degrees. Will take some more pics in a few days.. Or as soon as they break the surface

We love grow diaries Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

Looking good. Must say Im also in the begin stages and my growth are also slow. The forum really give great input and guidance. One thing I learned patience are key.

Previous grow in cupboard

Update: My babies are sitting pretty[emoji3064] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay thank you for the assistance. I do have the MH bulb also. On the internet they say the MH must be used for flowering stage....thats why i have the HPS bulb on currently. The other thing is i did keep the light on 24hours but someone said i must do 18hours light and 6 hours darkness. I will def top the swazi when its got a bit bigger

Finally moved the lady into the flower room!

Hello moses

Hi.... NEWBIE HERE :))

Just received my kit for the competition. Looking forward what this solo cup will do.

That's fine for distance. Try getting your night-time temps up in the 20's during veg. If you're not worried about electricity costs, you can tune your lights to 24hrs in veg to help with the temps. Also, patience. The seedlings are probably working on their roots when you don't see much leaf development, then all of a sudden you see a boom in growth. Just keep them happy for now, definitely get those night temps up for now. I also assume you know a 600W HPS isn't the best for veg but if you need one bulb for a whole grow a 600W HPS will do it. Just beware you may have stretchy plants in veg by using the HPS bulb. MH bulbs keep the plants nice and short. Swazi is a sativa so it's already a stretchy plant by nature, so you will definitely have to top or something to tame her indoors.

Took me about a year to get a shot of this little spider. So worth it 🕷 threw in a few other shots taken in lockdown. Why the need to leave home when nature is all around us?

My first Auto!!! (Actually my first plant that hasn't died and is actually showing some buds) very excited. #AlaskanPurpleAuto

She is looking like a happy camper to me, a little purple stem but it could be the cold nights. You doing great brother

Ok awesome , then I guess Im on track .

If I may add to your excellent write up, There is some data that UV light will open the stomata on the leaves faster or better, but the rewards are not yet worth it, so you are right. Guys also need to be aware, and see how many LED diodes are on the boards and what the power supply rates are, and if you do so, might find that companies are using the bare minimum diodes at the max voltage or amps, therefore pushing the diodes life to the shortest and not running very efficiently. Companies whom I have suggested, have precisely done those calculations and you'll find they are running more diodes at their peak efficiency and not full voltage, amps or watts. So your light and Investment will last more than double the time, and you get more diodes normally, which means more light coverage and less shadows.

We come to the point, where people write they know what they do and researched.. but I just had a quick look over their website and checked the LED lights. Lets quickly Quote the website: We at Online Grow Shop have researched far and wide to make sure that we offer the new and up and coming South African Growers market the top of the range in both HID and LED grow lights. Lets jump in the LED selection and that REALLY made my head shake!!!! https://www.onlinegrowshop.co.za/product/300w-led-quantum-board-v3-with-additional-red-and-uv/ I post the link... since when in this corner of the Universe is UV part of PAR? What a waste of energy is that?!?! No research.. also didn't found a PPFD from any of the lamps they build and sell. How do they know distance to hang for the stages?? I do not see any research at all... sorry.. just importing kits and selling them as top notch grow lights. Hehehe still giggle, PAR stops at 400nm, Hombres Light can hurt your plants and yield. After those guys, you have to figure that out yourself. Just writing it on your website, doesn't mean you know what you do..

This was my fear on those types of imports, Heard way to many stories on those import lights and they are never as advertised, please also check the watt draw at the wall for correct output

Hi DamDave Unfortunately the classifieds are not available on Tapatalk anymore. The Classifieds board you have been trying to post to is being phased out and is not taking any further submissions. That is the most likely cause for the failed upload. We now have a dedicated Classifieds area HERE but you will need to access it on your phone's browser and not Tapatalk.

Amen to that, Brother... Price and Service of the guys just slap you in the face. If you have to go cheap.. wallet deflated badly.. import yourself!!! If you want to buy a light in SA.. look that you have a long time warranty in it.. that might come in rather handy. Second point is energy consumption. You want to use as little as possible with reaching your goal in yield. If you get a lamp with 600 Watt for a 1.2x1.2 area, the Mars Ts3000 is already waaaaaaaay more efficient. So anything drawing more as 450 Watt and you want to go 1.2x1.2 tent.. why on earth take the more drawing one???? If you extend it to the wallet game. The 600 Watt 12k lamp will be more expensive after 6 months than the 13.5k lamp running on 450 Watt. If the lamp provide a proper foot print, you can compare. If they don't.. you must be the god of grow lights to be able to know if the light will do the trick. Is like buying a race car with no kw or torque numbers of the engine. Think before you buy....

Thanks PsyClown your 100% correct about the soil or rather coco perlite it’s the green bag. Your direction and approach make sense to me, staying with my GHE and just using their classic mix would be fine for now until I’ve done enough studying up on soil and maybe just do one plant in a separate grow and play with soils and nutrients. so I’m doing 5 plants currently, Humboldt auto Bubba Kush. So recon the freedom farm green bag premium classic would get me by for about two weeks into veg and then I would start adding my GHE line. Could you maybe give me the names of the added microbe and mycorrhizal fungi, teas would I add these with my GHE mix of course not the tea I would imagine that would be on watering days without GHE. thanks for the reply dude. Nice one. To be honest the main difference I wanted to see was in the labour and amount of water I need to do in coco, I love coco but it’s just tough if work and time ain’t always in your side. That and I like the idea of organic..... to a degree.

That is a good markup and quick income, wonder if they didnt drop ship those and hence the delay... There doesn't seem anything to assemble either. I'm more worried about the report of actual LM301B used. This is my opinion and dont mean upset anyone, if not allowed then please remove and I apologize in advance.

Nice profit on those lamps.. I should go into the grow light business ^^ I got my QBs for a 1.2x1.2 area for 7500...self import.. and I screwed the cables together myself.. and those boards are with Heat Sink, H version diode. 5.500 for screwing a lamp together in 10 mins.. not shabby. Looks like they spend the time after the lamp is done with drinking.. as they can't spend it on customer care.. there is NADA. Still nothing.. no lamp, no refund.. What PPFD foot print do they give you for the lamp?

Thought I'd leave my experince here too. I too ordered a grow light off their website. I ordered 480w led bars. It took about a month to get to me after also nagging and nagging for days on end. Every week I was told at the end of the week my lights would arrive, then Monday I would be told the same storey again. It was repetitive to be honest. It's difficult to keep your cool and with no physical shop etc it's really tough following up. On another note though. The light that I have is actually of really great quality. I've only recently started using it so hopefully will see in the long run what it can do. My rating: 1/5 for customer service 5/5 for product quality and price

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Entry #1 Dinafem's Blueberry Cookies in veg and mainlined.

My No1 ^^ a real Auto.. she even topped herself. suddenly the main went 90 degrees sideways and the plant performed a topping Blackberry Kush

Greetings 420 Fam. I've decided to put this thread together for the newbies to the indoor growing scene and anyone else that it may help. Anyway, it's for everyone to have a look at and hopefully it will give them a little bit of guidance when it comes to choosing the method of training that they want to use on their cannabis tree. Honestly, I wish someone broke it down for me when I started as it would've saved me a few months of experimenting by myself and accidentally coming across new methods somewhere random to try out. Anyway, here goes; Okay, so there's a lot to consider when you're aiming to increase your yield while not outgrowing the space you have available... Let's start with the simple stuff. My suggestion would be to research a bit on what you read here first before committing fully. Here's what you need to consider; - Acquiring good genetics (high yielding plant). Your bagseed flowers may look awesome, but most of the time it's genetics are a big twisted mess and stable genetics will yield you more bud per/m2. - Setting up a hydroponic system will get you a faster growth rate, but not necessarily a higher yield (although the time taken to get it would be shorter by a week or 2). - If you're using soil, you need a well mixed grow medium with enough drainage to ensure proper oxygen concentration in the root zone. - Use a good nutrient line if you aren't using living soil (it doesn't have to be expensive, it just has to work well). - Make sure your space isn't too big for your light (you may end up with airy, smaller buds or just a really slow growth rate if you ignore your limits here). - Ensure your plants get enough direct airflow to develop healthy, strong stems and so they receive ample fresh air. If you've considered of all of that, then you don't have much else to decide. LST works well, but it takes a lot of patience and when using it even with FIMing, but it isn't the most effective. This is because you still have to, in a way, let the plant grow normally and constantly train it to fit your space FIMing your tree will just give you more branches to train. The next 2 methods I'm going to mention are ways of making the plant grow into your space and it sort of has a predefined shape, which requires minimal training and even less once you decide to flower. Mainlining a tree requires less patience, and a bit of confidence when using this method because you will have to use some heavy HST with LST. I've used a slight variation of this on my last grow. I came out with about 204g of top shelf bud off a single tree (in a 70cm x 70cm tent). "Quadlining" has been coming up more recently and I've done this on a Microgrow I had running a while ago. You don't remove as much plant material as the previous method but the results are pretty similar. It requires slightly less time than Mainlining but also works well on maximizing yield... I was able to get 40g from 1sq ft off a single, small tree. Both these methods were effective at creating an even canopy with minimal LST and without the need of a net/trellis, but they do involve HST which means you will have recovery periods that add to your total length of the grow. I haven't tried any other methods, but from my understanding; ScrOG is one of the most effective at getting a maximum yield as this is a more controlled way of creating an even canopy and involves using a rigid screen through which you weave the tree as it grows. This makes maximum use of your space as you can decide what size grid to use and when you think its packed enough to flower. This method comes at the cost of a long veg time and regular maintenance, due to having to check which tops are growing pass the others and getting others in optimal positions. I'm not sure what other yield boosting techniques are commonly used but IMO; I think you're better off running your trees with the mainlining technique. Do some searching on Google to see how each of the methods work and see which one you'd feel comfortable doing. Everyone has their own preference I know this isn't a complete, thorough guide or like a how-to, but I hope it helps some of you. Feel free to also share the link with anyone that has a yield boosting question that can be answered by this post. If you're gonna add information to this thread, all I ask is that you please be sure of the methods you're posting. I've tried different methods and I've compiled this from my own experience. Peace [emoji1308] Happy Growing Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Hey bud. You know the spider plant is a herm right...?

I'm not a betting person Let's first first see what the figures are, I mean be fair here now, its bag seeds and all

I saw these lights on a local site while browsing for an upgrade for my 1.2 x 1.2 space. I am still new to the intricacies of LED/QB lighting and the qualities associated with diodes and drivers. The set up looks real functional and also encompasses the entire grow cycle requirements for spectrum. @StickyD420 How would you rate the efficiency, effectiveness and quality?? Since joining the forum there seems to be consensus that GrowOpz has some of the meanest lighting at competitive prices while also offering trust and honesty, which seems to be lacking in the sale of lighting to noobs... like myself Happy that I joined

One question , how quick does the first real leaves develop on a seedling. My seedling is growing these, extremely slow. Couple mm so far in the last two days. Its not stretching, but not sure if the light is to high so it does not encourage growth?

I was using Atami but 300 a bag I also ha e to look at the spend, so changing coco supplier to a local one is of course great that I it’s self might bring a change to my watering I dunno Atami is great coco been using that for the last year with only the 3 part GHE and calmag with molasses. I haven’t seen any issues but then again I’ve never add to that formula to notice a difference in the plants and labour. Your recipe or guide on what I could change up would be great. Mixing my nutrients is a process of watching my strains a starting low and working up from there

DWC LED Indoor Grow | Week 3 Thing have picked up speed quickly now, All seedlings nicely established and roots all fully grown through the LECA pebbles. I also decided to take 2 cuttings from the Crescendo that that was about 3-weeks ahead of the Blue Kush seedlings. Strains: Blue Kush | Dynafem x 4 Crescendo | Ethos x 3 Nutrient Concentration - EC 0.5 (will moving to 1,0 soon )

I grow Coco/hydro only. I dont understand soil and all the natural stuff . i am however a bit of a Judas and when i saw the Just-cannabis claim to "no nutes needed just water" i was like Fuck no way. gada check it out. So R170 for a.bag of soil and a Lsp clone later boom. I'm impressed. will I do it again. more than likely not but not because it disnt come out nice cause it did. just not me

I snapped the main stem off when it was still in veg, so the oo Blueberry is half the size it would've been. I think I may have learned my lesson with the next 2, LST working as planned. Schedule of watering plus nutes seems most optimal so far.

Atlantic Bio Ocean (Builders warehouse) seems like a good alternative to Seamungus.

Freedom Farm Classic is too hot for me whan planting seeds. I'd say 50% of seed I planted straight into classic had problems. Switched to their seedling mix and its all good

My current grow is using 19.1 kw/units per 24h. I'm running 1000w(600w + 400w) lights in my flower tent and a 200w light in my veg tent. The fans are pulling 88w. You need to work out consumption in order to work out cost so the best thing to do is break your grow down to each piece of equipment that is using electricity and work from there: I'm gonna use my grow as an example here: Firstly it really helps to measure what each device is actually pulling and not go by the indicated wattage for the device i.e. a 600w HPS may use a little more than 600w, especially with magnetic ballasts. My 600W HPS and 400W HPS are collectively pulling a total of 1115w and not 1000W. If you have a prepaid meter it should be able to tell you the wattage being used in the house. An easy way to measure each devices true wattage is to have the device off, check the current wattage use in the house in the meter and note the amount, then turn the device on, note usage and work out the difference. Here's how to work out total consumption: The formula is : Device wattage X time(hours) device is on Flowering Lights: 1115w x 12 = 13 380 Veg Light: 200w x 18 = 3600 Fans(2 extractor fans and 2 oscillating Fans): 88w x 24 = 2112 We then add these totals together: 13 380 + 3600 + 2112 = 19 092 So that gives me 19 092 watts which is the total number of watts my grow uses every 24 hours. Or 19.1 kilowatts, or 19.1 units... whichever way you wanna look at it. To work out cost Formula: Total daily usage X Price per unit(kilowatt hour) Daily cost: 19.1 x R2.44 = R46.60 Monthly cost: 46.60 x 30 = R1398-00 Hope this helps