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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2020 in Posts
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We now have a donation option available for those who would like to donate to 420SA. Your donation will be contribute to the following: Hosting Costs Forum software updates (these updates are crucial for security and a bug free experience) Future developments and improvement of features on the website You can CLICK HERE to donate Sorry there is no quicker payment solution on the website besides manual EFT. Unfortunately no payment merchants will run on the website when we are selling seeds6 points
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4 points
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Lets get quickly a bit science into this, might help a lot of the new folks reading this understand. Light is the main ingredient beside water. To little or to much of both will hurt or kill your plant. A plant with perfect light and lower quality fertilizer will still out perform a plant under low light and pro fertilizer. The plants have three stages with different light demand. For indoor growing, to much is more often the danger during early stages. Germination and seedlings need around 250 micromol PAR light for perfect growing. Veg they perform best with about 500 micromol PAR light. You can also go up in stages during Pre but I usually just go full. Full means 1000 micromol PAR.. that seems to be the max the Cannabis plants can handle with the usual CO2 concentration and no, didn't grew on my shit ^^, I read that up, Apogee made some extensive studies on that topic. Over 1000 micromol PAR you need to add a CO2 generator to have profits. So you would just waste the energy without it. Grow light producers do those measurements and tell you how high to hang for the stages. If they don't provide a germination distance, just use the same distance they reduce for Flower and add that to Veg distance. To much isn't the best for the youngsters. But in general they provide Veg and Flower distance. If you never grew before and get no indication what to do.. will not add to a satisfying outcome. Indoor, nothing has more importance then your light!! Is also the most expensive.. so you better do your home work, if you do not buy from a known producer. If you order yourself and want to DIY.. those boards have several options, you go for the 3000k 660nm or 3500k 660nm version. I perfer the 3000k, others the 3500k.. read up.. you learn quite some on the way till you order your first gear. If you are not in the mood to read up... do yourself a favor and buy off the shelf a known and tested product. Will help your yield if you know how to handle the lamps. Rest is a bit a mine field of frustration. Not all of the stuff the guys sell is crap.. they just seem to have ordered a bunch of boards and thought all can get used to grow.. the UV boards would work too.. you would just waste the energy for the UV diodes.. as that helps nothing with your plants. If you switch a 450 Watt lamp on for growing, you go 1000 Rand Eskom on top of your usual bill (light will make heat, air needs to get moved). So wasting energy shouldn't be on your list.. the indoor setup will get over taken by the Eskom bill within a year. Is not just the gear.. the gear will constantly cost you money. When you have a 600 Watt lamp in and just let her "shine".. you waste 300 Rand a month on a 1.2x1.2 area. Saving now.. might not be the big saving at the end of the year. The more efficient you can run your lamp(s).. the cheaper you get out of this experience. For a total beginner, outdoor first to see if you don't kill all green things.. if you have a good outdoor result, indoor should work fine, if you give it the same attention. It just comes with way more cost compared to outdoor growing. So fuck ups indoor.. cost more. Buying the wrong gear will actually hinder you making progress. If your Lamp has a dimmer.. you will have issues to set it correctly without a quantum flux meter. Most lamp producers have em set on max and so set their distance to hang.. but if you get a lamp with a dimmer. You enter the world of guessing without a tool costing the same as your lamp. Keep that in mind if you go high performance lamps.. those all have a dimmer in general.4 points
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Murphy's Law, 3 seeds to get 1 plant... Then you get that joint above, burnt and smoked, and then still comes out like The Undertaker from his coffin on WWE. And while looking into my glass ball, haha, I meant bong, I see this new life starting to rise from the dead like Stefano Dimera from Bold and Beautiful More lols3 points
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Isn't formula 1 coco with some amendments? Not quite the same as their classic soil which is a bit closer to a living soil with microbes and such? I could be wrong though. Curious as to what difference you'll notice, if any. I personally would rather stick with coco, synthetic nutes and add things such as microbe inoculations (gotta ensure there is something in your medium for the microbes to breakdown though), mycorrhizal fungi, teas etc. With coco being an inert medium, I believe the microbes won't care much for it, I have no way of proving this though. If one were to reuse coco from a grow, there'd be roots left in the coco still and I'd imagine that to suffice and not be a bad thing. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk3 points
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I do agree fully there, and have when using jiffy pellets, gotten 100% success rate with seeds and clones. But got the rockwool starters for a clone project, and thought while I had them I'd use them for the seeds. Next time, jiffy pellets or straight in as you suggest to the home. Much safer and simplest way. Oh yes, all 50 odd clones I did last month in the rockwool, came out 100% success so thought seeds would be good...lol.3 points
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I sort the plants and distribute to each section, QB and TS3.. curious if the QBs can match a TS3 But I should have enough to choose from and make a even distribution of good genetics. If you ask yourself, what is the spray bottle doing there.. I use it to easier feed (Root Juice, BioBizz, 4ml/L) the back rows. The Arena3 points
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Hi guys. Hope your all well and staying warm. I was hoping someone could help with what may seem a simple question is actually probably an in depth topic about soil, coco and then organic or synthetic? Many opinions out there and very valid ones from like professors in soil biology and master growers. A lot of learning down this road. I’ve never used or grown in soil, for some reason the topic or understanding the bio life behind soil seems challenging, even choosing the correct soil or from who do you soil, just a few minutes of reading through soil and specialists topics on good soil and organic teas! It all sounds fantastic and I’m so for the organic way but I’m just not lus to learn it, it seems so much more complicated than my GHE nutrients and my coco perlite holstered with my PH and E.C. pen! Yes there are down side to both grow mediums and positives. Dunno, am I missing out on something for a kak reason like I’m not lus! So I thought I’d go against my lazy self and start small, the idea and looking into this has already existed me, I look forward to learning and growing as a grower. And this is where I need to ask your guys help and options if you think this a good simple start for my first go at organic nutrients. I’ve heard and been told guys get great results with the following buuuut I’m sure there is more to it. I’ll start with changing nutrients first and work to soil after a grow with organic nutrients I thought? Not that I’m aiming to be doing teas and putting my own soil mix together. Hectic! Anyway this is it, this is what I have...... freedom farm Formula One only afternoon about 3weeks in veg (from seed, transplanted into freedom farm formula one after germination About 3 weeks after popping) there after Biobizz bio grow - high in veg Low in flowering Biobizz bio bloom high in flowering low in veg work the two nutrients chance according to growth stage. so if someone out there is just brain farting on the couch like me and reading this, and has the energy to reply dude. If there is anything I can tell you, please do ask, I’ll try give you what ever info you may need to better point out the way I should be going? Cheers guys! Stay blessed!2 points
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You typically have your dehumidifier in the room where you pulling air from, this way your air going into the tent / room get the perfect RH. and dont need to clog your grow space up with it.2 points
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Wired up temperature controller and planted the seeds. Sitting at around 60% humidity and 24 degrees. Will take some more pics in a few days.. Or as soon as they break the surface2 points
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Looking good. Must say Im also in the begin stages and my growth are also slow. The forum really give great input and guidance. One thing I learned patience are key.2 points
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Okay thank you for the assistance. I do have the MH bulb also. On the internet they say the MH must be used for flowering stage....thats why i have the HPS bulb on currently. The other thing is i did keep the light on 24hours but someone said i must do 18hours light and 6 hours darkness. I will def top the swazi when its got a bit bigger2 points
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Hi.... NEWBIE HERE :))2 points
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Just received my kit for the competition. Looking forward what this solo cup will do.2 points
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That's fine for distance. Try getting your night-time temps up in the 20's during veg. If you're not worried about electricity costs, you can tune your lights to 24hrs in veg to help with the temps. Also, patience. The seedlings are probably working on their roots when you don't see much leaf development, then all of a sudden you see a boom in growth. Just keep them happy for now, definitely get those night temps up for now. I also assume you know a 600W HPS isn't the best for veg but if you need one bulb for a whole grow a 600W HPS will do it. Just beware you may have stretchy plants in veg by using the HPS bulb. MH bulbs keep the plants nice and short. Swazi is a sativa so it's already a stretchy plant by nature, so you will definitely have to top or something to tame her indoors.2 points
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Took me about a year to get a shot of this little spider. So worth it 🕷 threw in a few other shots taken in lockdown. Why the need to leave home when nature is all around us?2 points
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My first Auto!!! (Actually my first plant that hasn't died and is actually showing some buds) very excited. #AlaskanPurpleAuto2 points
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She is looking like a happy camper to me, a little purple stem but it could be the cold nights. You doing great brother2 points
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If I may add to your excellent write up, There is some data that UV light will open the stomata on the leaves faster or better, but the rewards are not yet worth it, so you are right. Guys also need to be aware, and see how many LED diodes are on the boards and what the power supply rates are, and if you do so, might find that companies are using the bare minimum diodes at the max voltage or amps, therefore pushing the diodes life to the shortest and not running very efficiently. Companies whom I have suggested, have precisely done those calculations and you'll find they are running more diodes at their peak efficiency and not full voltage, amps or watts. So your light and Investment will last more than double the time, and you get more diodes normally, which means more light coverage and less shadows.2 points
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We come to the point, where people write they know what they do and researched.. but I just had a quick look over their website and checked the LED lights. Lets quickly Quote the website: We at Online Grow Shop have researched far and wide to make sure that we offer the new and up and coming South African Growers market the top of the range in both HID and LED grow lights. Lets jump in the LED selection and that REALLY made my head shake!!!! https://www.onlinegrowshop.co.za/product/300w-led-quantum-board-v3-with-additional-red-and-uv/ I post the link... since when in this corner of the Universe is UV part of PAR? What a waste of energy is that?!?! No research.. also didn't found a PPFD from any of the lamps they build and sell. How do they know distance to hang for the stages?? I do not see any research at all... sorry.. just importing kits and selling them as top notch grow lights. Hehehe still giggle, PAR stops at 400nm, Hombres Light can hurt your plants and yield. After those guys, you have to figure that out yourself. Just writing it on your website, doesn't mean you know what you do..2 points
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This was my fear on those types of imports, Heard way to many stories on those import lights and they are never as advertised, please also check the watt draw at the wall for correct output2 points
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Hi DamDave Unfortunately the classifieds are not available on Tapatalk anymore. The Classifieds board you have been trying to post to is being phased out and is not taking any further submissions. That is the most likely cause for the failed upload. We now have a dedicated Classifieds area HERE but you will need to access it on your phone's browser and not Tapatalk.2 points
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Amen to that, Brother... Price and Service of the guys just slap you in the face. If you have to go cheap.. wallet deflated badly.. import yourself!!! If you want to buy a light in SA.. look that you have a long time warranty in it.. that might come in rather handy. Second point is energy consumption. You want to use as little as possible with reaching your goal in yield. If you get a lamp with 600 Watt for a 1.2x1.2 area, the Mars Ts3000 is already waaaaaaaay more efficient. So anything drawing more as 450 Watt and you want to go 1.2x1.2 tent.. why on earth take the more drawing one???? If you extend it to the wallet game. The 600 Watt 12k lamp will be more expensive after 6 months than the 13.5k lamp running on 450 Watt. If the lamp provide a proper foot print, you can compare. If they don't.. you must be the god of grow lights to be able to know if the light will do the trick. Is like buying a race car with no kw or torque numbers of the engine. Think before you buy....2 points
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Thanks PsyClown your 100% correct about the soil or rather coco perlite it’s the green bag. Your direction and approach make sense to me, staying with my GHE and just using their classic mix would be fine for now until I’ve done enough studying up on soil and maybe just do one plant in a separate grow and play with soils and nutrients. so I’m doing 5 plants currently, Humboldt auto Bubba Kush. So recon the freedom farm green bag premium classic would get me by for about two weeks into veg and then I would start adding my GHE line. Could you maybe give me the names of the added microbe and mycorrhizal fungi, teas would I add these with my GHE mix of course not the tea I would imagine that would be on watering days without GHE. thanks for the reply dude. Nice one. To be honest the main difference I wanted to see was in the labour and amount of water I need to do in coco, I love coco but it’s just tough if work and time ain’t always in your side. That and I like the idea of organic..... to a degree.2 points
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That is a good markup and quick income, wonder if they didnt drop ship those and hence the delay... There doesn't seem anything to assemble either. I'm more worried about the report of actual LM301B used. This is my opinion and dont mean upset anyone, if not allowed then please remove and I apologize in advance.2 points
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Nice profit on those lamps.. I should go into the grow light business ^^ I got my QBs for a 1.2x1.2 area for 7500...self import.. and I screwed the cables together myself.. and those boards are with Heat Sink, H version diode. 5.500 for screwing a lamp together in 10 mins.. not shabby. Looks like they spend the time after the lamp is done with drinking.. as they can't spend it on customer care.. there is NADA. Still nothing.. no lamp, no refund.. What PPFD foot print do they give you for the lamp?2 points
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Thought I'd leave my experince here too. I too ordered a grow light off their website. I ordered 480w led bars. It took about a month to get to me after also nagging and nagging for days on end. Every week I was told at the end of the week my lights would arrive, then Monday I would be told the same storey again. It was repetitive to be honest. It's difficult to keep your cool and with no physical shop etc it's really tough following up. On another note though. The light that I have is actually of really great quality. I've only recently started using it so hopefully will see in the long run what it can do. My rating: 1/5 for customer service 5/5 for product quality and price2 points
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Ok, I'll give it a shot. Entry #1 Dinafem's Blueberry Cookies in veg and mainlined.2 points
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My No1 ^^ a real Auto.. she even topped herself. suddenly the main went 90 degrees sideways and the plant performed a topping Blackberry Kush2 points
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I'm not a betting person Let's first first see what the figures are, I mean be fair here now, its bag seeds and all1 point
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Il moves the dripper away from the stem, or even if you can split the dripper so you have two and the 10cm away from stem, it will help with roots looking for water/nutrients further away. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk1 point
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Check this guy with household lamps, getting 0.8 to 1.2g a watt, that is silly... all comes down to having everything in sync and fine tuned.1 point
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Thanks, to be fair it's like 75, 77, 73g and rounded up. This go around, taking pictures of everything, will weigh it all and picture all of that too. Got to get a proper log down now.1 point
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I'm using LED Bought at GrowOpz as 2 lights, and made into 1 by myself. 1x 320w shared by 6 panels, mixed 3k and 4k temp, running at 300w max 1x320w shared over 2 one meter lengths, 3k temp with 660nm far red, running at 300w max The first one is inside and the second on the far ends, this way I can start small with one driver and middle lights, with the more blue for veg, and then later turning on the light with the far reds as going to flower and up the output near end of flowering. These are also on a slide frame and can gather or expand as needed. Size area, 2.5x2m1 point
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It's Kingbrite LED, you can find their products quite efficiently through their company page and using the 'Products' drop down menu: https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/company_profile.html?spm=a2700.supplier-normal.35.3.71ee402doqTboJ#top-nav-bar Just understand, it's Kingbrite. If you lose the chip lottery and your LEDs start fading in a year, don't get bummed. It's happened to a few members on other forums that I remember when initially researching them. There are other avenues to source genuine LED's locally, whether prebuilt or DIY. It's a bit of a rabbithole but it is there.1 point
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Yes that would be correct, I went with the Nebula method as I wanted to shave off those few days extra of veg... I want to give regular mainlining a try next run instead of the flux. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk1 point
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Entry No.1 almost time for micro flower1 point
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I'm checking out your light. The interwebs says the Mars TS 3000 is a 3kw light. Is this correct? Edit - I read further and it says it's a 450w like you said... Im just still not able to fathom the quantity... You have really put me in a spin mate.... Iv been trying to find other examples of peeps internationally that make this claim... And I can't find anything yo. The best I can find is if you are getting over 1g per watt, you're doing great... You have over 2g per watt lol.. In soil no less... With a damn open tent lol... I think the your trick is autos and extended light cycle... Well done mate. I doubt I'll go that route though... I hate that I'll only have that exact plant once... And will need to keep buying seeds.1 point
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Awe guys, I've been kak busy today. Check my new possie. 190 x 60 x 60 87cfm axial fan 2 x Cree 36v CXB3590 LED cobs with active cooling. The LEDs are running at 50w each for now. This build is lekker stealthy, it locks, the fan is alot more quiet now because it's hanging from the ducting and not fixed to the cab. If I put a box over the ducting outside for scrubbing, it'll be quiet enough to come inside. Now all I need is for these KAK seeds from GSR to germinate1 point
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Led to grow them big enough to go into the greenhouse. Can only afford to do one big indoor grow a year.1 point
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