Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/2020 in all areas
-
8 points
-
#3 Like a school group photo, the tall ones at the back.5 points
-
4 points
-
@StickyD420 thanks man! Second grow for me! Never had such deep interest in something3 points
-
Still haven't gotten round to the farm. This weekend seems clear of cold fronts. Got a really smelly GTH male though. Being transplanted tomorrow and going into 12/12.3 points
-
3 points
-
I'm nearing the end of my 2nd grow with these lights and buds are still coming out rock hard. I'm guessing fluffy nugs would be a possible way of telling the LEDs are fading without an apogee?3 points
-
Grams per watt. That's much easier than sqm as everybody packs their sgm differently. If you have a 1.5x1.5 tent, but only running one plant... You gonna have a shit output. But if you use grams per watt on that one plant, you will be rather surprised. Maybe if I was able to control the RH better I would dry for longer... But still not longer than 7 days.3 points
-
At this point you the hitting hight numbers, most probable we need suggestions from you [emoji6], just pulling your leg bro, jealousy dies that [emoji38] Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk3 points
-
If things go as smooth as your last run... You should get close to 1kg. I do feel your claim of 700g under the 300w is a bit hectic. At what point do you weigh your harvest? Im trying to hit 1.5g a w and that's proving excruciating lol3 points
-
Agree with the bark(acidic) and ''nursery potting soil'' comments. Most ''store bought'' mixes are not ideal for cannabis-some are even lethal. Would suggest you look at aerating the mix as well by adding some perlite, it will also aid with drainage. Also with that size bag, go easy on the watering. Those size bags will take long to dry out, you risk the seedlings damping off. Those size seedlings need about 250ml every 3rd day only and no nutes untill about 3 weeks old. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk3 points
-
Not even 'ultimate' grow, just 'a' grow. Let's get the basics down first. Look for cannabis specific soils such as Freedom Farms Classic, Just Cannabis and Living Organics. Or when you notice the price of organic nutrients, you may decide to go coco and use hydroponic nutrients. If I had to make a guess the Swazi is probably photo. I am not aware of an auto swazi.3 points
-
Your soil looks like it contains lot's of bark etc which cannabis doesn't like so much in my experience. What soil are you using?3 points
-
Hello Zol, I use the same thermosat my friend. nice work with the wiring. I like the enclosure and the plugs. Do you plug the heater into one and your extractor into the other one? I added a relay switch into the mix so that when the heater is off, my extractor sucks at full speed and when the heater is in; the fan kicks down to low speed. I have a panel heater and an HIT 150 fan. The humidity never climbs over 60% and my temp never dips below 21C. What else have you got up your sleeve?2 points
-
2 points
-
Firstly, I apologize for the picture quality, its zoomed and not meant for this purpose or taken specifically. I wanted to show the light praise of the leaves after the tea I make up. Microbes and Enzymes2 points
-
2 points
-
Hope I can still enter... Plant power2 points
-
Agreed. Those leaves look hard, could be N to as well. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk2 points
-
So I see Futurama have Newport Butane, I purchased and got delivery today. I reached out to Checkers and they have stores with stock and the stores without stock will be receiving stock. So if anyone needs, there are options.2 points
-
Fully understandable, and agree with you. The very best dry process is slow at 18deg, and your nipples must pierce through your shirt, that's how cold it must be in there, and gradually bringing your Humidity down from 65 to 55 then 50, then jar. You want all the plants juices to slowly escape for the best smoke.2 points
-
improved grow skill could account for not seeing any fade. diodes are rated with a 10000 h lifetime or 20000 i think so you are more likely to upgrade your lights before they become an issue2 points
-
They do also Gram/Watt/Plant on growdiaries.com not sure what that is good for Gram/watt is nice to see your lamps efficiency Gram/sqm shows a bit how good you are2 points
-
Nah, actually not 14 days at 18deg, 60H is perfect, low and slow. I've never had a single issue with my goods, and use the humidity packs after the burping. My process stems from many others preferred way.2 points
-
I'm hoping for 1kg dry, Was about 600 to 700g dry after hanging for 14 days to dry, weighing, then jar to cure. Realistically its probably just over 600g as I had smoked some while drying and added that to the total without an actual count first. I'll be more specific and detailed and have logs of everything I can possibly think of on my now run. I want to be fair and precise, and not have any doubts at all. Shout if you have any suggestions to do please regards logs or pictures?2 points
-
@Prom I know one should not envy, but god damn man you're doing some crazy stuff here!! I think a bunch of us will be acquire some autos for future grows, I know I sure am!2 points
-
2 points
-
I kinda run out of space ^^ Day 7 Week 7 And I mean the top part hehehe Those Gorillas really enjoy them self without getting disturbed. The End is Near I usually use the tent as my dry tent.. but I think those Gorillas start to prove my point rather well Autos Rock! Hitting 80cm (soil to tip) now.. I think they will reach 100 till harvest. I might have to move the cam to the other side.. Fan and tripod start to collide. Tomorrow I post the week movie..2 points
-
Very true, the naked eye would not pick up any differences over a long period of time, possibly a cellphone app for Lux as a reference only at the start at a given height, even though not something you can do calculations or bet your life on, it would show the degradation over a set time.2 points
-
Looking good bro... But it also looks like your medium needs better drainage. If you're planning to transplant, I would buy some Perlite and mix it in a 50/50 or 40/60 of perlite/medium... It will help aerate your medium to increase oxygen in the root zone and also help with drainage by creating air pockets, also helping the roots to develop by seeking out oxygen rich spots. I feel that a medium with majority coco packed down can be quite dense. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
My Veg tent has Vero29 cobs running at 68v each - so 275w total Combined with a blue supplement from HLG. Also have my Anthelions on there but unfortunately they only used when I flower in this tent.2 points
-
Thanks man. For the moment I've just wired it for heating or cooling. Great system you got going there. I'll guess I'll just see what levels I'm getting and adjust from there.. Still a newbie here with alot to learn lol, so not sure how much I'd have to adjust etc as I go along.. Just planning on keeping it simple as possible to start and go from there1 point
-
Sorry to hear about your troubles @DamDave If you can give me a screenshot of the error message you get when trying to upload I might be able to help you further1 point
-
It will also contain some humic and vulvic acids which are beneficial. But more ''micro innoculation'' than ''nutrient'' as@SkunkPharm mentioned. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk1 point
-
Should perform fine. Must just be wary of fade in a year or two and be able to pick up on it if it does happen. Hard to do without an Apogee or something1 point
-
And he got the "better" light as replacement for the 4 QB 288 board lamp he ordered.. is a LED Bar Lamp so those lights are better then QBs. I learn a lot from those dudes... I think I stick with my lamps and will not switch I would have demanded to get the 4 QB Lamp originally ordered.. a lot more for your money hehehe I cross this topic off and put a ignore on their URL, not touching that store myself.1 point
-
I use Tapatalk for a number of other forums incl 420SA - convenient to have them together, but have problems across the board. Browsing through threads and it stops...get a msg ''Tapatalk has stopped'' Replying with text is ok'ish but uploading anything is a problem. Did the restart and reload of the app to no avail. Could be handset related, but same ploblems on the S5 and A5. So I'm living with it for now, frustrating...but not the end of the world. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk1 point
-
Thanks for that, I turned it out a bit after taking the photo. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk1 point
-
I'm using LED Bought at GrowOpz as 2 lights, and made into 1 by myself. 1x 320w shared by 6 panels, mixed 3k and 4k temp, running at 300w max 1x320w shared over 2 one meter lengths, 3k temp with 660nm far red, running at 300w max The first one is inside and the second on the far ends, this way I can start small with one driver and middle lights, with the more blue for veg, and then later turning on the light with the far reds as going to flower and up the output near end of flowering. These are also on a slide frame and can gather or expand as needed. Size area, 2.5x2m1 point
-
Hi and welcome FF Classic and FF F1 both need to be fed nutrients, but Classic can go a few weeks for veg as you said. Tbh from the readings I have done it seems that microbes doesn't do well or die off when using synthetic nutes and espesially when in flower and EC running high, but also read that if you keep EC just at about 1 it can be done, I'm also new to living organic soils. We here to learn from each other Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk1 point
-
Hi.... NEWBIE HERE :))1 point
-
Lets get quickly a bit science into this, might help a lot of the new folks reading this understand. Light is the main ingredient beside water. To little or to much of both will hurt or kill your plant. A plant with perfect light and lower quality fertilizer will still out perform a plant under low light and pro fertilizer. The plants have three stages with different light demand. For indoor growing, to much is more often the danger during early stages. Germination and seedlings need around 250 micromol PAR light for perfect growing. Veg they perform best with about 500 micromol PAR light. You can also go up in stages during Pre but I usually just go full. Full means 1000 micromol PAR.. that seems to be the max the Cannabis plants can handle with the usual CO2 concentration and no, didn't grew on my shit ^^, I read that up, Apogee made some extensive studies on that topic. Over 1000 micromol PAR you need to add a CO2 generator to have profits. So you would just waste the energy without it. Grow light producers do those measurements and tell you how high to hang for the stages. If they don't provide a germination distance, just use the same distance they reduce for Flower and add that to Veg distance. To much isn't the best for the youngsters. But in general they provide Veg and Flower distance. If you never grew before and get no indication what to do.. will not add to a satisfying outcome. Indoor, nothing has more importance then your light!! Is also the most expensive.. so you better do your home work, if you do not buy from a known producer. If you order yourself and want to DIY.. those boards have several options, you go for the 3000k 660nm or 3500k 660nm version. I perfer the 3000k, others the 3500k.. read up.. you learn quite some on the way till you order your first gear. If you are not in the mood to read up... do yourself a favor and buy off the shelf a known and tested product. Will help your yield if you know how to handle the lamps. Rest is a bit a mine field of frustration. Not all of the stuff the guys sell is crap.. they just seem to have ordered a bunch of boards and thought all can get used to grow.. the UV boards would work too.. you would just waste the energy for the UV diodes.. as that helps nothing with your plants. If you switch a 450 Watt lamp on for growing, you go 1000 Rand Eskom on top of your usual bill (light will make heat, air needs to get moved). So wasting energy shouldn't be on your list.. the indoor setup will get over taken by the Eskom bill within a year. Is not just the gear.. the gear will constantly cost you money. When you have a 600 Watt lamp in and just let her "shine".. you waste 300 Rand a month on a 1.2x1.2 area. Saving now.. might not be the big saving at the end of the year. The more efficient you can run your lamp(s).. the cheaper you get out of this experience. For a total beginner, outdoor first to see if you don't kill all green things.. if you have a good outdoor result, indoor should work fine, if you give it the same attention. It just comes with way more cost compared to outdoor growing. So fuck ups indoor.. cost more. Buying the wrong gear will actually hinder you making progress. If your Lamp has a dimmer.. you will have issues to set it correctly without a quantum flux meter. Most lamp producers have em set on max and so set their distance to hang.. but if you get a lamp with a dimmer. You enter the world of guessing without a tool costing the same as your lamp. Keep that in mind if you go high performance lamps.. those all have a dimmer in general.1 point
-
We come to the point, where people write they know what they do and researched.. but I just had a quick look over their website and checked the LED lights. Lets quickly Quote the website: We at Online Grow Shop have researched far and wide to make sure that we offer the new and up and coming South African Growers market the top of the range in both HID and LED grow lights. Lets jump in the LED selection and that REALLY made my head shake!!!! https://www.onlinegrowshop.co.za/product/300w-led-quantum-board-v3-with-additional-red-and-uv/ I post the link... since when in this corner of the Universe is UV part of PAR? What a waste of energy is that?!?! No research.. also didn't found a PPFD from any of the lamps they build and sell. How do they know distance to hang for the stages?? I do not see any research at all... sorry.. just importing kits and selling them as top notch grow lights. Hehehe still giggle, PAR stops at 400nm, Hombres Light can hurt your plants and yield. After those guys, you have to figure that out yourself. Just writing it on your website, doesn't mean you know what you do..1 point
-
Agreed, it definitely is the wrong unit to measure in... But it is still a great indicator as to how intense your lighting is... One thing par and lumens have in common is the further away from the light source you go, the lower your reading becomes. And I really doubt you will be hitting high par, with a low comparison lux reading. Just saying it's an indicator1 point
-
1 point
-
Won't be entering this month by choice. I'll definitely be watching the entries though. You guys are crazy skilled[emoji1373]All the best to everyone! Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk1 point
-
I'm running a 240w COB fixture (120w veg mode which is a slightly higher K spectrum; ~3195k; due to bloom switch controlling the orange and red supplementals as well as 2 COBs). It's the Hipargero HG800, and I have it in a 70cm x 70cm tent.1 point
-
Bud washing works well - This was lab tested and measured in at 28.5%, 0.5% higher than the breeder gave, so definitely no loss.1 point
This leaderboard is set to Johannesburg/GMT+02:00