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Sorry guys the day job has just got me so busy at the moment. I have barely visited the forum in the past week. Closing date was 01/07/2020... that's 1st of July. Forgot to turn off the entries open tag, sorry about that We will get the nominees decided today hopefully and should have the winners for you near the end of the week

What about this being a hit? It's one thing to jack all their shit... But it's another thing to pull the trigger and end a life. And to go back after the looting to do the shooting... Sounds pretty hairy to me

3 weeks old and asking to be transplanted...

First rule to successful cloning beyond everything has to be sterlising everything. Jik and water in a spray bottle works like a charm. If you having rotting or damping off issues this is most likely the cause. Temperature. The warmer the environment, the quicker they root. I soak the coco plug or rock wool cube or whatever medium in a dilluted flowering solution. The extra phosphorus promotes quick root development. Day 1 spray all cuttings with a further dilluted flowering solution. Misting the insides of the cover only daily for the 1st week with plain water. Empty out whatever water is pooling inside dome at the end of the week. After that mist only every few days. I keep the dome fully closed for 14 days. Plenty roots by then. Transplant in solo cups. Harden them in solo cups in the same dome for 1 day and off we go. Will attach some pics of the hardening up. Lighting. The less intense the better. The leaves stay green and healthy. If your leaves are yellowing they getting too much light. On a side note. I would really like to build one of those clones with the misters too. I've already got all the bits and pieces except the neoprene inserts. I want to make a 100 site unit for it to be practical. Hopefully soon...

Wait for roots to come out, before going to the final pots, you dont have to, but it helps with not overwatering now. Maybe try a smaller in between size pot before the 10 liter pots, for the root ball, and for watering, as you are like me, and love them to death with water.

So happy you got a good light and part of the family too... Well, what size fabric pot you going next? You can go straight to a 3 gallon fabric from jiffy, just got to be super careful with your watering, and water only enough at once. Then up to a 10 gallon fabric later in say 1.5 months time. It's good to up pot to create a good healthy root ball, otherwise your roots will always go to their furthest point and then make home, usually at the bottom of the big pot, if watering till the bottom, and you'll get issues and not much roots.

I am rather curious as to why they went back and killed him. Was this just an aggressive robbery, or was he targeted specifically? Did someone want him gone? Something we may never find out. RIP Jules. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

I agree, also remember in winter with the colder temps it holds water longer than in summer. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

Looking blerrie good, you got it down. That's some ''seriyaas'' effeciency bro and those babies look awesome. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

It's a weed, needs and wants to look for water, not be soaked and bathing in it. You'll be okay, just dry it out fast and slow it down.

This is what happens after a good clone sesh...

4 weeks old... Hang in there little ones...

Hi guys. Im n new grower and started off from seeds i bought online. I needs some help and advice. Ive been going for about week and a half. But its seem like its going slow... im using a 600w HPS light with humidifier and regular watering. Seedlings are about 3-5cm high now. Is it going good or to slow( day 9)?

We have a new moderator onboard! Welcome aboard @Ill_Evan thanks for helping out

Hello everyone. I am a greenhorn. I tried a first outdoor grow over summer. Realized I have a lot to learn. I have been reading up online and then behold, 420sa.co.za Hopefully getting my green fingers on

Alright, cool. I'm hoping that the grow cabinet will be completely ready by the weekend. I could have it ready enough by tomorrow though.. I already have a nice 150w from @Master_G hanging in the cabinet (will take pics soon) .

Adding: if you see stretching, then the light is too far away, if you are already at the point your covering not enough plant and cant come closer to the plants without missing the full area, you go bigger light.

There you go, that's what I meant, you good to go brother

Will do This morning it had the whole shell/husk on it and I gently eased it off.

Brother, I was so busy focusing on the wet medium, and the first picture couldnt see the seedling correctly at its angle. Please watch the seedling and see if that skin / condom comes off, it sometimes will need help or you can wet it and it will help soften it. Not wetting the coco though. I honestly use a toothpick or tweezers to pull it up and release the leaves or what ever those first arms are called technically.

The statement from Fields of Green For all says: "During the early morning hours of Friday, 3 July 2020, an armed robbery took place at the property of Jules Stobbs and Myrtle Clarke, best known as The Dagga Couple. The attackers entered the couple’s bedroom and shot and fatally wounded Jules Stobbs. Myrtle was physically left unharmed and the attackers made off with two cellphones and two laptops." So we'll have to wait and see what the true story was. According to a security guard, when they returned there was a struggle in which he landed up being shot multiple times. The guard speculated they may have returned for Myrtle but its all speculation and time will reveal the truth regarding that

Ok, I'm back. No, cinnamon will not nullify the mycoroot. Mycorrhizae fungi is found in most soils but sometimes need help finding the roots, that when you can help with mycoroot. Did a quick search and not only was the landlady correct but found that cinnamon is also a pretty good alternative to rooting hormone. As to do with gnats, cinnamon kills the fungi that attracts them and sprinkled on top of the soil acts as a deterrent. Man. Feels like I'm back at school. Learnt a bit today. Sent from my DRA-LX5 using Tapatalk

They busy airing the live tribute now on YouTube

Haha, DamDave you make me laugh... I'm asking for my own benefit, learning and understanding Not to question you, rather the idea. That Fynbos would probably like an acidic soil, off the top of my head, and busy helping a guy who sells Clivia's to overseas markets, and he adds pine needles to his soil for acid. The soil you using should be fine, just watch the plant and see if its happy, and just add perlite to the mix, lots of it and can even go 50/50 or more, it's up to you.

Easy there on the technical stuff, I'm new to indoor game remember. On the serious side, I asked the landlady and she got even more technical than you. The soil I get from them is a recipe they came up with over years for their propagation operation and works well with their fynbos. Not exactly an answer but I'll ask again for a layman's explanation.

Looking epic bro, and some solid advice there with the cloning tips! I learned a few new things about making better cuts. Happy growing greenthumb!

They should be okay, holding thumbs for you. With jiffy or coco, it holds water and air well, and with them it's best to water from the bottom, let it suck it up. You learning and doing just fine and that's what we are here for.

Whooo, way way way to much water... Slow it down, every 3 or more days, and if need be water a small bit near the base of the jiffy only, as on the stem will wick it off and pulls air out from the top watering.

Cinnamon ( the powder ) acts as a natural fungicide, a little bit of not so useless information I found out the other day. The only time I've seen gnat's is on Google. Sent from my DRA-LX5 using Tapatalk

Your welcome, biggest issue in commercial soils is poorly composted materials generally create a "hot" soil that really holds onto moisture. In addition like mentioned above the bark chips rob the soil of Nitrogen while it is decomposing, after decomposition the Nitrogen will again become available to the plant. If you are mixing up yournown soils its good to let them cool off for a month or two after adding ammendments, as in the case of mixing ur own supersoils. Compost needs to be decomposed very well, same with wormcastings. Else there could be issues. Last tip is to use something like dolomite lime to help control PH and it will also add Calcium and Magnesium to the soil. Do some searching online for soil recipes to get an idea about correct ratios etc if are interested in supersoils.

I dont know @Pat999 But by the way you all been talking about him, I'm starting to miss him too Sounds like he is an awesome cannabro.

Welcome to 420SA Make yourself at home and buckle up for the ride As @CreX said, definitely follow his advice

Hey bud. This is more of a question to others reading this, I'm new myself. While researching my curly and brown leaves I read that bark is a no no as it releases nitrogen or something. And is that a leca pebble I see. Leca in soil will retain moister, that much I know as I use it occasionally at my nursery. I may be totally wrong. Sent from my DRA-LX5 using Tapatalk

Thank you Crex, I will do that. the soil is a standard potting soil with pearlite and bone meal mixed in. Thanks again

#5 mon tout Regardless of winning or not, this is a great place for us to let our imagination loose and share with one another, thank you 420SA. I also post all 5 pictures, as I hope ya'll enjoy them.

Nice clone setup, mind sharing your misting and temp setup? I'd have on and off success with cloning,recently build a small bucket cloner in the hopes that I wouldnt have to mist to get cloning as I think thats where im going wrong.

It is shocking news - Great love and Compassion to Myrtle and family Go in Peace and Love dear Julian. We will continue the cause with similar passion you showed us!

Agree with the bark(acidic) and ''nursery potting soil'' comments. Most ''store bought'' mixes are not ideal for cannabis-some are even lethal. Would suggest you look at aerating the mix as well by adding some perlite, it will also aid with drainage. Also with that size bag, go easy on the watering. Those size bags will take long to dry out, you risk the seedlings damping off. Those size seedlings need about 250ml every 3rd day only and no nutes untill about 3 weeks old. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

#2 Haze for Dayz.

It's the other way around actually hehe. MH for veg because of the 6000k colour And HPS is for flower for the very orange red 2700k light Good for having both bru!!

That's fine for distance. Try getting your night-time temps up in the 20's during veg. If you're not worried about electricity costs, you can tune your lights to 24hrs in veg to help with the temps. Also, patience. The seedlings are probably working on their roots when you don't see much leaf development, then all of a sudden you see a boom in growth. Just keep them happy for now, definitely get those night temps up for now. I also assume you know a 600W HPS isn't the best for veg but if you need one bulb for a whole grow a 600W HPS will do it. Just beware you may have stretchy plants in veg by using the HPS bulb. MH bulbs keep the plants nice and short. Swazi is a sativa so it's already a stretchy plant by nature, so you will definitely have to top or something to tame her indoors.

How far is your bulb from the seedling? What strain are you growing?

Also have a final result for the 3 Angels from Dutch Passion. Got a total of 187.1g dry dry ^^ i want to Honey Bee them, so dry dry is fine. 62g per plant average (for curing, would have to add some moisture again). Like the Dutch Passion Blackberry, is just not the same like the US autos. If the plant would have gone 20cm up more, she would easy have reached 80-90g. But all three were about the same size.. that seems to be it. Good news.. a 60cm high tent would work You could easy pack 10 of those in a 1.2x0.6 space. They hardly reached the outside of the pot (230x230, square). But like all Autos.. they form buds

Aurora Kush are the tallest in the tent by a long shot... Not as frosty as the others, but certainly a high yeilder!!

Depends how many main branches u were going for, looks ready for Manifold technique inmo.

Give Simon a chance, he's representing us. I would love to meet him and have a chat to him about his cannabis career... He is a strain hunter. Full respect to GHSC and the late Franco(he was the one that had the nose for the terps not so much arjan)... they have done wonders in the breeding world. They were the 1st to do video week by week grow documentation. I've watched every video of there's maybe twice. They the only breeders that provide terp reports on most of their strains but somewhere along the line the breeding stopped and they became seed makers.

So once again, a COB a type of LED, Chip on Board. End of the day, the actual type of LED in place on the COB will ultimately determine the performance. Let's use cars as an example, think of COB as a hatch back and a Quantum Board as a sedan. There are many different hatch backs and sedans. Now think of comparing a Hyundai i10 (a certain type of COB) to an Audi RS3 (another type of COB). Both are hatchback cars but the RS3 has way more power than the i10. The same applies to Quantum boards, compare a Honda Civic Sedan to a BMW M3 - both are sedans (Quantum Boards) but once again the M3 has way more power. It really comes down to the type of LED, that is where the difference comes into play the most. Not so much the way the LED is implemented, although that can certainly have a difference too. One of the main advantages of a Quantum Board over a COB is the source of light. With a COB (or even an HID - be it CMH, MH or HPS) is that there is a single source of light. One light bulb / one LED. A Quantum Board has multiple light sources, the QB's I use have 288 LED's (some a few more) per Quantum boards and in my flower tent I am currently running 4. So that is 1152 LED's in total, 1152 sources of light. This makes a big difference. A simple example is to imagine yourself standing in a room, with 1 light infront of you. Now behind you there will be a shadow. If you add a 2nd light behind you, the shadow isn't as noticeable. It is heavily reduce and will vary depending on the position of the light. When it comes to LED's, the biggest factor in performance still comes down to the LED itself. A car is a car, it gets you places. Some will just do so quicker and with more comfort than others. The same rings true for LED's, an LED is an LED in the sense that they will both produce light although the amount of light which is produced will differ along with how much of that light the plants can actually make use of. The second part being the most important, one cannot judge an LED grow light just based on how much light it actually outputs, the plants need to be able to make use of the light.

Week 7 of a flux trained plant