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Hi all I am Norseman, a hobby grower you might call it and a reviewer of gear for Vaping and now also for gear connected to dry herb. The reason for doing reviews on gear directed towards cannabis is because of chronic back pain and the only thing giving me some relief is cannabis. Nice to be here.

Sales hype, you need these to see the plants glasses and save your eyes, normal sunglasses wont work, you need these...lol. Since when is a spectrum of the sun made by the sun, or by a light source, be it whatever it is, not be the same? Like saying the UVC the sun makes is different to the UVC a bulb makes You not going to wear those yellow tinted glasses, it wouldn't be worth it, but if your plants are green and correct, you can use a sunglass.

Just make sure the colour of the sunglasses, doesn't mess with the colour of the plants when looking through them, it makes it hard to diagnose them and you might miss something. That's the only reason they sell certain HPS OR LED glasses, cause they make you see the plant in colour a human can see best in. Plants aren't green, they just reflect green

Oh yeah, the sunglasses I use are both also polarised... If it makes a difference, lol. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Lol, yeah man these grow lights are bright AF... I use regular sunglasses (black tint) but I also have these glasses that have this greenish-blue tint on them (they do a better job). Those are just what I use. There are glasses with lenses made specifically to basically even out the spectrum and light intensity on your eyes which cost a bit and are available from grow shops. These are more effective and are made so that you can see the actual colours of the tree and such no matter the colour of the grow light it's viewed under (provided you buy the right one).

HPS is still the thing to beat.. they are just very very hungry. g/watt they lose against LED.. if I wouldn't have to worry about electricity cost at all.. I am rather sure, I still would use HPS lamps. They are great but very expensive to run.

digikey had free express shipping at the time. Aliexpress goes per weight.. so was cheaper for me to order from 2 different suppliers. If you buy just one QB 288, do NOT take the 240 driver, take a 120.. other way you waste way to much energy or need a dimmer. The 120 works perfect and the draw is correct. The 240 draws way more as it just tries to squeeze everything inside the board.. one reason my boards were way to hot. Now.. not even sure I need a heat sink, hand warm. So select the driver matching your boards wattage. 1 QB288 IM301B/H - HLG 120H-48(A, B or AB) 2 QB288s - HLG 240H-48(A,B or AB) If you do not want to use a dimmer, just don't connect one and it will run 100%, works on all three driver versions A, B and AB. But you still have the option.. I go with B usually as I like to connect them to a Arduino system and dim from that source.

i was having a look at this thread from the starting your own grow section - lol - this thread has properly blown up and become one of the most popular and most frequented topics on the whole forum!!! well done mate, you are well on your way to becoming green fingered hooligan like the rest of us!

OK cool. The light from master g can be dimmed as well, so I guess I'll just use that as it's already installed in the cabinet.. And then maybe add the supplemental light afterwards. I can still use it to grow macro algae for now in my fish tank refugium lol. Thanks again for all your help and time brother. I really appreciate it. And that goes to everyone who has assisted /n given advice.

The author is not taking into account specially formulated soils, which generally has zero michorizzal input from the 'earth'.

i found the comments quite informative, not so much the article unfortunately his approach to myco's is not as simple as "you should already have so adding more is futile" i would consider this guys opinion if i was a much more experienced grower and i knew for a fact that my myco system is on point if you are in doubt - it seriously is one of the cheaper additives - just add some in - it will not hurt i know this is in the soil section. but mycos in coco and hydro is very important in my opinion and everyone should have a tub of the stuff laying around

Week 9 Started... and they also start to put on some smell now ^^ Day 1 Week 9 And week 8 in motion. The cam and the fan started to collide. And then the less important had to go ^^ .. the Fan hehehe So sorry for the cam moving but the fan did that. Also nice to watch the plant relax after the wind disturbance is gone.

They are below my eye level, thankfully Cause, yes...even the reflection is enough to leave me with a headache some times, and put on my sunglasses, they aren't meant for LEDs but gather if the lights are a specific spectrum of the sun, and I'm wearing quality Polarized sunglasses, I should be 100% Dont kill me if it's not

Must say , I think im starting to read the girl a bit better and if not sure normally wait a day longer before i feed and seems like i found a good rhythm.

I was going to say, so much Info in this thread, it should become a sticky or go to for new growers haha But @zolrooker knows everything he needs to grow and impress even us here

Lol, any way to make the whole thread into pdf and post a link? Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

My pleasure, also wanted to say, and I'm sure you have already, sealed all light leaks, as you going to go reverse day / night, you'll have the day time light to deal with that night time wouldn't be an issue ( more critical in flower, but I like to keep the habit). That's the last thing I wanted to say. Good luck brother

Thanks for all the help guys. Much appreciated.

Hey bro. After reading your dairy on the flux mainline method I decided to go with that flow. The decreased veg time when compared to the Nugbuckets method is a definite benefit. 2 specific strains I am running are loving the topping and tie down high stress training. Peyote WiFi by Seedsman and Washing Machine by Ripper seeds. I did the second and final topping today but the two 2 new grow tips on either side still need some growth.... With your experience, how far do I still have to go in veg before flipping? Washing Machine Peyote WiFi As you can see I also went with the Perlite top layer for the soil run off and it works real well, thanx for the tip The clean up for the flux mainline also results in some real nice clone cuttings which turns out to be real benefit when you consider the price of decent genetics. Happy growing

CMH with LEP is one day lights for me. Till then I'm on the cheap cheap running costs

I agree I've also noticed that afternoon temps are higher than midday honestly, so I've decided to go lights on at 6pm. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I agree, Try to have your light switch on at 5 or 6pm, as it starts to get cooler, your room or area will be okay till that time of day to switch off, just before the external temps effect that space. My 2c Currently I hit maximum temp at between 3.30pm and 5pm. Then gets cooler fast.

I do this. Helps keeps temps stable and within a nice range. It works well in my setup. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Correct, good stuff the Mycorrhizae Plus it has insect frass in it

Na.. don't worry.. is not really a hot mix. But a great buffer for all. Main nutes still come from BioBizz, but is a very fluffy mix. With Root Juice, they grow very fast in the first 2 weeks. I always reach 5 finger leaves end week 2.

Perfect

Hello everybody, I start my seeds directly in the jiffies. Also did the papertowel method in the past. My reason for starting the seed directly in the jiffie without a soak is that I want to protect the fragile taproot. Once the seed is in the jiffie I put it in a warm place and wait till the seedling breaks through the surface. Thats when I carefully place the jiffie into the final pot. That's just how it always worked for me, but there are so many different ways to start the seeds. Sorry my English isn't 100%. I am from Germany originally (hi @Prom )

You are over thinking it now, you got this brother. Have faith, and we are here if you come across any issues, with what you have and our already guiding you, you are going to be just fine.

I use Freedom Farm Premium.. drop the seed directly in it.. they love the shit

do it!!! just a few mm deep, nothing crazy i was topping up the saucer every morning because the it was dry - but never from the top of the jiffy unless the jiffy is obviously dry

There are many way better growers then me on this site. I ignored Autos for 3 years.. autoflower.. what shit is that!? hehehe But when a professional grower tells you.. "mhhh Cape Town, you should put some Autos outdoor, that should end great with the amount of sun you guys have. First batch has also no seeds." The second part made me listen.. i tried them and cursed myself not to have given those babies a earlier chance to prove them self. I had one more grow of Fems beside the Autos.. then decided that I actually enjoy Autos a lot more.. and we talk miles I am over snipping and binding. I want to grow as relaxed as possible and get some results. The Gelato.. that weed changed all my books. And my tracker moved, post office is catching up.. 100 42FastBuds Gelato Seeds inbound, passed customs already that should keep me happy for a year might sell some of the beans I don't need. No need to let em get old.

or if you can, leave your tent open when lights are on?

@Prom Im amped bro. Got my autos. Gona maybe germ the banana monkey 2nyt. Making a stop at GTH for the jiffyz quick.

As a side note, if you have issues with heat... One thing you can do, and it stabilizes the temps more which is what you want ideally, a stable and less changing temps. Change your grow around, if your lights come on at 6am and off at 6pm, for example, then you rather run the lights at night when its cooler, and off in the day when its hottest, so on at 6pm and off at 6am, flowering example.

You slowly convincing me to try auto flowering, as what I've seen has been ridiculously good, and as you say, they just have a certain vigor about them and style and growth. Again, big ups to you on the grow brother Prom.

I've completed a grow with a similar light, it flowered really well. Got around 0.83g/w. I think it would make a good supplemental in flower[emoji1362] Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

two are not drinking as they should. Noticed on one plant very fine yellowing on the tips.. my inner feeling told me to give them a pure water feed today. Royal Queen seeds say is a 8-10 week plant. Also shows you, that you can't trust those numbers, very sure the plants will need 11 weeks. But 8-10.. I select my 8 week feeding sheet that one takes no prisoners. I should be scratching the limits here @afternoon blazer I don't do this to show how great I am as a grower.. I actually am not I have more respect for the guys getting a 600g harvest out of a single fem. I grow for over 30 years.. and all I want to show is that Autos are a new breed to deal with. Those hardened Nordic suckers have a unbelievable nute distribution. They go way more berserk with flowering, as they usually have way less time to do their job in nature. Due to ignoring the Photo sensitivity you get a lot of energy into the plant in a very short time.. and best is just the fact: don't disturb Autos! We did 2 individual tests for defoiling. In both tests we selected the fastest growing and strongest plant and made a clever defoil.. open the light to the buds, not touching the other fan leaves. Both tests had exactly the same outcome.. the once strongest and biggest plant had in both batches at the end the lowest yield. And was never second last or middle.. dead last. Undisturbed, they seem to perform best.. so if you like to grow but don't want all the training snipping, binding, folding or what do I know.. go Autos they yield unbelievable well for the size they form.. just keep them happy feed and have the right climate. Mine is never dropping below 19 and not over 22.. love winter indoor growing

Cool, thank you. With regards to the extra supplemental light, it's not really necessary to have it now, or probably even the light of Master G right now at full power. Like Evan said the other day and you can find online, your seedlings really only need a little bit of light 200 to 400 PAR and anything more would be a waste of electricity and potentially burn the seedlings. I'd say use the UFO style light with more red now till they need more light, and then run the new light, probably on a dimmer and working up to full blast in flower and then adding the UFO for supplemental lighting. I bring my lights on in stages in the morning and off in the evening to replicate the sun rise and set, the UFO is perfect for that spectrum too. But this is stuff you play around with after you can grow start to finish a decent plant. Seen as the sun is probably one of the best light sources you get, and still seen people grow air rated weed in the full sun, and therefore those people buying the best light for indoor, but they have a few basic elements missing so it isn't worth the investment yet. In other words, before playing or investing too much, get a few runs under your belt and go from there.

Hope everyones doing great! I have a few things on my plate right now and too many things keeping me from reaching that desired budget to buy everything I want. Taking things slow, step by step and trying not to do anything by force, will get where I wana be sooner or later! For the time being, since my first DIY grow cupboard, I've always been collecting all sorts of parts and materials to use for a grow, as they happen upon my way. Just for in case, you know? I took cuttings from the plants I'm running in the tent at the moment, had them sitting in some jiffies in a humidity dome on a heat mat under a CFL. Did manage to get some roots within 15 days!!! Was quite happy about it, but the fucking heat of the CFLs burnt the leaves crispy brown. My mind and money is set on my DIY 300w QB with some samsung strips, then gona use the Apollo 8 blurple I have now for veg only. Didn't wana spend much, or anything really, but the CFLs had to go!!! Just to replace them I got one of those flood lights I'm reading about on the forum, checked out all the places around me that sells any kinda light, best I could find was a 50w, 3200Lumens, 6500Kelvin. For R530 with a 2 year warrenty and it's literally built for outdoors so can hose them down if I ever felt like it. I was lucky enough to happen upon a huge lump of reflective material. a Few pallet loads of chemicals that needed to be kept cool was shipped wrapped in diamond mylar. Literally feels the same as the material of the mars tents with the little square patterns. Thick, almost stays in the shape you bend it. I even have a hard time cutting it as it seems to have a bit of wire in it too, to make the square pattern. I obviously took all of it, because it was free and was going to get recycled anyway. On the farm we have quite a few "scrap materials" laying around. I asked boss man if I could have 2 x 5m wooden battons that are 2cmx2cm square. They cost like R60 a pole I think, but I got them free. I bought softwood cupboard panels, you get the one that's smooth matte white one side and rough wood brown on the other side then there's a smooth wood and rough wood sided ones. I already had my reflective material I went with the both sides wooden, because it was a little cheaper, but I'm sure you could use the white ones and skip on the reflective material and get the same results. I payed R155 for a 2m x 3m "sheet". Picked up the bigger version of the Hydor bathroom extractor for R400 quite a while ago. Had a small desk fan laying around, also a thermometer and hygrometer so didn't have to buy those. Odds - roll of ducktape, wood glue, pack of screws, 1 x ladies stockings, 2 of the smallest door hinges, pack of smallest screw-in hooks, 3mm x 2m chain, 5m wire and plug for light. Started with the 10m wood, cut 8 x 70cm pieces and 4 x 100cm pieces. Using my handy dandy wood glue and screws, I made 2 x 70cm squares with the 8 pieces and used the 4 x 100cm to mount the squares onto. So the space is 70x70x100. Quite alright for veg. Using the ductape I covered the softwood board with the reflective and stuck them to the wood frame, again using the glue then some screws. (The glue alsp helps fill gaps for light leaks) I used the blade from a metal saw with the fine teeth to cut squares in the bottom of the wood pannel for passive air intakes and I made a circle where the extractor fan is fitted. Extractor aswell as the passive intakes are covered with the ladies stockings, again using the ductape. Inside the passive intakes I cut an extra piece of mylar just to hang over the stockings to help with light leaking in there during lights off. I screwed 2 of the hooks in the top wood beams, hooked the chain from side to side, hung the light and plugged the whole bitch up! Basically a glorified propagation box. Here she is: Top right corner black circle is the stockings covered mouth of the extractor fitted with a ducting that links into the ducting from my other tent, this box thing stands next to my tent. Here is one of the passive intakes, to understand "the flap" a bit better. Also a close up of the reflective material. I planted the best 4 cuttings into their first pots. This is their home now untill flower time. I believe once I do get another tent I'll still keep this bad boy for further seed pops and maybe build a nice bubble cloner to fit. Happy growing!

So seeing that i deleted all my posts as it had added 0 value to the site, i decided to do a new diary woth more useless information that will be of no use to any of you. Strain Names : Bud Bud Bling Tingz - Dr Krippling Tropicanna Rose - Worlds strongest strains Slurrijug - (no clue if it is oni maybe) Citradellic Sunset - Ethos Genetics Lumpy Space Princess - Solfire Gardens Mc Slurry - Worlds strongest strains Triple scoop - DNA Genetics I have popped the Tropicanna rose and the bud bud bling tings. and i am running a test. (non scientific and totally dumb move but i have enough tents and lights to mesa around with) so the Vegging Cycle is 12 on 5.5 off 1 on. 5.5 off. the flowering schedule will start at 11on 13 off and will drop weekly by 30mins till i get to 8on 16 off. i am vegging under a 240w unidentified light manufactured on the moon. (dont ask) @ 3000k because i wanna veg under 3000k. no reds as its not really needed under the light. for flowering i will be scrogging all the plants however im wating for my current flowering tent to finish. i will be replacing my Samsung 320w and 240w with more unidentified Led grow lights. i have been testing the lights over the last grow and i am very happy with the results i get from this. below is a Bud that has 4 weeks left till completion under this alien light. So lets see how my little project go. i got 1.3 grams per watt on my previous scrog grow under 240w. so the idea is to see if i can get more than 1.3g using this unidentified light and my the 12:1 growing style. ok let the Slaughter begin.

Thanks @TheUltimateNoob

I must have missed your transplanting and where you discuss the light schedule you are on, or I've forgotten with all the different post... What schedule you running on the lights now? normally it's the same from seed all through to veg, then changes in flower if photo period plant. I haven't used that soil before, plant looks happy and no need to feed if you ask me, and I know you can feed it, but start lightly and work up if you want to use them, but I'd say wait till the plant asks for food, typically they happy for at least a month from my understanding.

This is how i have it set up atm. i was over-watering it in the beginning and now ive stopped watering as much for the past couple of days and have have seen an improvement . Was trying to find a balance on how much to water since it seems like the heater and fan are drying it out a little quicker than first anticipated.. but if i can just add water to the bottom, to the point where there is a little excess water floating around, that would be perfect .

i get the whole discreet vibe lol - i too used to be a discreet grower but i didnt have much in the way of foot traffic during the day and it was acceptable for me to leave the cupboard open during the day. but if i had visitors, it was easy to close up and be discreet again

Sorry for the bad pics. I sealed the left door from the inside, so can't get a good angle. Does this space look OK for now? I can just put the seedlings on a bucket for now, closer to the light and then move things around later if I have to. Only problem is that I'm getting around 40% humidity in the cabinet atm

Nice!.. Interested to see how this goes.Sorry I haven't responded when you mentioned me bro, had a busy week. I find DIY grows a bit more entertaining to read through, there's more figuring out to do with the little tweaks and making do with what you have - it's just awesome. And I agree with@CreX , you don't need to be in a rush to upgrade... You can purchase smaller things here and there to make it easier for you, but IME it's better to save up slowly and buy something worth upgrading to. My first grow box was built out of plywood, covered in foil on the inside, used PC cooling fans for exhaust, and a USB desk fan on the inside for circulation along with some sunvisors for extra reflection vs foil. The day I got a proper light (after using 16 compact cfl bulbs for a while) was amazing. The day I got my tent... Man, that feeling was legendary. What strains are those seeds by the way? Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

If you're monitoring ppms, these are the ranges I use Veg: 400-600ppm (week 1-400, week 2-500, week 3 onward-600) Flower: 600-800ppm (week 1-600, week 2-700, week 3-800, week 4 onward-700) I do feed my seedlings but I'm not going to mention it as there are many who advise against it and it's super easy to do damage to them when they're that young. Don't forget to make sure you pH is within acceptable range for the grow medium you're using. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

For co2 to be effective to get the extra 20%, your grow really has to be in pristine shape... If any of your variables are out, the co2 becomes almost useless. You have to make sure your grow is air tight... Temps on point... Humidity in point, nute levels on point... Lighting needs to be on point... Also, measuring equipment is very expensive and you can overdo it and damage your plants, and yourself, so some kind of control is vital. There are some cool cheap ways to introduce co2, like those natural co2 bottles you shake... Urban naturals or something... But to be brutal bro... Unless all your other variables are in place... And on point... You will not get the added 20%...or possibly anything extra... And then you would have wasted some cash