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Today is a good day. https://www.iol.co.za/pretoria-news/news/child-dagga-criminality-lifted-3418f3fe-6522-425f-a04a-f9206d468817

What!! We were putting kids in jail for pot!? Kids!!! I'm no goody two shoes... But speaking to my brother and sisters... Weed is freaken rampant in schools... Amongst other way worse substances. I can just imagine that being exposed to jail time for such a mild Mr meaner would wreck the kids mental outlook on almost everything... Life, relationships, friends, future job applications... Pretty much snuffing out that child's life before it even begins... Sies South Africa. Thanks for sharing man! This a really good day for some good news

@TheUltimateNoob keeping a sterile enviroment is key, keep cutting stems away from air as much as possible until rooting gel is applied. High humidity for at the first week, then gradually reduce humidity. Controlled temps will really help a lot and speed things along. I like to use a plant older than 2 months, recently heard taking cuts from the bottom also increases success.

Back.. wasn't my back.. Gaul stones apparently. Unfriendly experience hehehe I update asap. Three went out and I had them dark for 2 days. Cut them 20 mins ago and they are now hanging. Other 5 are not in the mood to finish yet... I get all updated asap.. but first I have to handle some real life shit Post Office not moving an inch either... is Express only option now??? Why can Courier companies do what Post Office can't?

I took a clone on Sunday of the K-2 from Nirvana, and it was full of roots sticking out the rockwool in 4 days, and I take it the heat mat and thermostat was the reason for this. Normally they take 7 to 14 days from previous experience, with heat mat on manually and off manually. As mentioned by @Dank you want to clean all tools and surfaces with alcohol and the cutting must go straight into water till you get them in the gel or rockwool, pellet or medium.

Why not try a scrog? Less stress on the plant, but you end up with a perfectly flat canopy

@Dank thanks bro @CreX thanks also... The reason I want symmetrical cuttings is to mainline them... I don't want to deal with uneven growth and then wrestle my trees to try to create an even canopy. I've always started from seed for this reason. I get what you're saying though. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

@TheUltimateNoob, I have had fairly good success with cuttings from the newer growth. Trick isn't in your method... But slightly before. An analogy is if you are in a moving car... Going downhill... And the engine straight up vanishes into thin air... Will the car stop or keep going downhill? It will keep going!! So now the same principle apples in cuttings... They do not stop transpiring for quite a while after they are cut... A good 12 hours or so before they start not sucking everything up. This is important to note. Because if you are cutting and putting the cut into a jiffy within an hour of cutting... You best make that jiffy as wet as possible for the next few hours, or the fresh cut stem will start pulling in air... And then it's game over. So what I do now is I take my cuttings... Stick em in a cup of water, and leave them over night... The more cuttings you take the more water they will suck up from the cup so make sure all the stems are well below the waterline. And then I proceed with normal methods... With a dome if the cuttings are in jiffies or rapid rooter A week and a bit and you will see roots like @1000Hills Nursery And as for the symmetry... Nothing wrong with alrernating nodes... Normally leads to decent branching and still a nice shape. The only way you gonna get symmetry is from a seed... And then you not sure if the pheno is gonna be good yet anyways so a symmetrical cuttings isn't actually worth anything other than visual value

I think it depends where/when the clone was taken. For example, Topping when the plant is still growing symmetrically will give you a nice symmetrical clone. Cloning a branch on a 3 month old mother plant will give you an asymmetrical clone. That's my taking on it, someone correct me if I am wrong.

And so it begins. Seeds was planted yesterday, 1 August, in some Just Cannabis soil. Hopefully she germinates Using 4x cool white cfl’s and a 22W cool white led strip for veg in the meantime. Either going to add some extra cfl’s or slap a 150w halide over plant once she gets a bit bigger. Not sure if theres a double ended mh bulb out suitable for Veg. I do have a 3500k bulb waiting for flower. Here’s my little ghetto garage setup so far

New grow and decided I’ll log it here to see how things pan out. Inhouse Genetics - Bananium Inhouse Genetics - Zurple Punch Inhouse Genetics - Jelly Breath Inhouse Genetics - Sugar Cane Inhouse Genetics - Slurricane Inhouse Genetics - Terple Inhouse Genetics - Frosted Apricots Inhouse Genetics - Blunicorn Inhouse Genetics - Lime drops Capulator - Mac Exotic Genetix - Cookies and cream World Strongest Strains - Sundae Driver World Strongest Strains - MacSherbet World Strongest Strains - Cherry FPOG World Strongest Strains - Chiquita Banana (Utopia cut) - Seeds from two phenos from last grow , pollinated by @CreX Knuckle Genetics - Quarantine Kush Solfire Gardens - LSP Irishdabs- Mac69 x Mac 3 Will post progress once things take off.

Just harvested peeps... 9 weeks and 2 days of flowering. Will have a post up in the early hours of the morning. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I rate once you get use to the battery vape you'll stop using your Dynavap... Because of ease and convenience mixed with some laziness. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Yeah, I aim for shortest possible veg including training so I top as soon as I'm able to. No harm in waiting a bit longer Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Morning Blazers. Weekly update time. Week 3 - day 15 Really enjoying the grow so far. Fed her yesterday. Think i will start some gro. And fish mix at half strength on the next feeding. Any suggestions or u guys spot anything im missing?

Lets talk how to make easy hash. I will keep it more on the simple side, some decisions you simply have to make yourself, other steps are give and are rather a must. But as none of the steps are rushed, a rather relaxing procedure. First step is getting your grids.. which ones, I leave that selection to yourself, as not in the mood to hear: bought the wrong sizes because of you! I use 2 max.. (Google, decide, you can always reorder), I know people using 4 (i just think is a bit over done, if you consume the stuff and don't want to sell in different qualities. Depending on which "take" i rub, i skip the fine one completely, only use the fine one with take 1. I use a cheap Car massage system and put one side of the grids (rather firm connected) on one of those vibrators, set to max. This is not needed at all, I am just a lazy fag ^^ And you need a hard, very smooth surface below your grid.. mirror/glass works best. Once you have the grids of your choice, next order you have to do is dry ice (www.dryice.co.za, 20kg, R816 + shipping, 3mm pellets) and some clean silicon kitchen gloves or non powdered (like always when you handle weed) medical gloves. The dry ice will last 2-3 days, so order that best to the date you want to use it. When you store it, wrap some additional blankets around and place it beside your air intake for the tent Free CO2 generator. There is no need to put your dry left over into the freezer. You just wait 10 minutes longer with wet material, the dry ice does what it says.. it drys very quick ^^ and no liquid left overs. Material I use are fluff buds and material from dressing the A class buds I want to keep. Those are the GSC fluffies, made no pic of the WoW material i hashed, but looked 1 to 1 the same. GSC gets bubbled. In your bucket with the material you dump some dry ice pellets and shake it in in steps. In a 10 liter bucket I drop around 4 cups of dry ice. The 20kg box you get is HUGE ^^ would guess you can easy do 15 huge trees with that box. I had 5 Wonder Woman total. Used not even one quarter. Once it stops "steaming" the water is gone, mix carefully and check that none of those pellets enter your glove.. or you will end with a freeze burn, dry ice is -80C. When you take a bud out and squeeze it.. it should just crumble to dust.. ready to go. Take a hand full out and rub it firm in between your hands. the dry ice pellets will help you get the material fine. Don't take to much, but you are also in no rush, all will stay super cold. No need to dig in your fingers.. just move it gentle without any down force over the grid, that way your fingers stay warm. What falls through looks more like a fog. Depending how long you work the more you change quality. I work each batch around 60-90 seconds. Keep the material, you can do more than 1 take. First will be super sticky and very easy to form a ball, third to fourth will be more powdery and demanding a heat press to get some potency out. When done, remove the material into a second container and rub on a next batch with your hands till done. The fine grid will have collected 90% of the pollen you filtered out. I add some dry ice pellets to that pollen and let it cool down again. Then use a old credit card to gently move it over the fine grid with as little down force as possible. When you are happy, you put the batches in bags. To work with the fine grid, the lower you get the temperature, the better will be the result. (was take Nr4, so a bit greenish) The left overs from 2 10L containers And the result of the first take You can use a pollen press, your hands (gloves) or leave it in the natural chunk it forms by gravity inside the bag. Depending to that, color will change. But is very soft and very sticky... If you have a phone call and have to leave during a batch is on the grid, add some dry ice and let it cool down, that way you don't mess up your grid. Cleaning the grids, any soft brush will do.. if you cool the grid down with some dry ice, you get it rather clean.. just careful.. very cold things like to break way easier. Freeze burns hurt.. keep that in mind before you get one and don't "rub" down when you work the material.. only slide it gentle over the grid. Rest.. good luck and have fun

Not such a fan honestly... And sometimes I'm not around for like 2 or 3 days. I also like being able to take my tree out of the tent because I'm often rearranging my space since I grow in the garage. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Scrog doesn't... The other 2 do Although the Scrog will take a while to fill up completely and you won't be able to move your plants. It's generally used with 1 tree in a small space or 2 in a medium space. If you don't mind the wait and training your tree daily, then it would be the best way to maximise the use of your space as you literally will have a grid to fill out. If you choose to mainline, you can trim off excess smaller growth and keep the tree within your space, and this way you can control the height of your tree without a screen because you will get a height increase by a factor of ~2.7x by the end of the flower stretch. If you have the 3 trees already then you may just want to go with LST, and trim off whatever growth gets blocked from light or has weak stems - they won't hold themselves up by the end of flower. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I went with the Arizer Solo 2. Thanks for the thread @PsyCLown I ordered it yesterday and it arrived today, vapestore.co.za is awesome. It looks like a fantastic vape, very solid and well made. Remarkably fast to heat up too, I'm impressed. I'm pretty sure I'll still use the dynavap occasionally and I'd still recommend that as one of the best, (most compact & portable) and cheapest options. The Solo 2 is great for ease of use though and being able to set the desired temperature is a huge benefit. I'm very happy with this purchase.

Mainlining or fimming is your best bet for increasing yield in a small space. The other option would be a ScrOG (which could actually work out a bit better if you haven't used HST effectively before) Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

I fully agree!

Think I'm only gonna top. Not sure if any other training methods will help since my space is a bit small and promoting too much lateral growth might not be a good idea Will check how it looks at week 4 and seek advice on whether to flip or not.. Any other training methods i can look at to increase my yield and make the most out of my space? Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

I veg for 6 weeks... I mainline like 90% of the time and 6 weeks is the average that I've got... Give or take 2 days. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

@Rob189Ah I see, therefore you've got a beautiful climate for cannabis. It's been a few years but it's one of my favourite places in south Africa.

@CreX only going to be one plant under the mh. The other 3 plants are moving outside once they get big enough

2 of my plants are at that stage. I'll top between 5 and 6. The 3rd plant is growing a bit weirdly, but looks like it's on 2 or 3 only Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the help guys. Turns out that my local nursery stocks Just Cannabis soil. Not sure how good it is, but i bought a bag for R300. Will be using it for my first grow. That gives me time to make my own soil mix the TLO way for the next grow (hopefully with clones) Only about a 1/3 of the the way through the book, but it's been very informative thus far

Out with the old in with the new. Major General Banner from GSR seeds, Ghost Train Haze from Rare Dankness and Blunicorn from In House Genetics.

Yeah i get the basics bro, but generally people don't clone off the main, hollow stem... Popular opinion online is that it doesn't root well. I've tried and failed, so I thought it's true. I've taken clones before, but none were symmetrical, maximum age of the tree that donated cuttings was about a month and a half. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

really impressed with the symetrical growth on these clones, its something I've consistently failed at... Think you could help me out

My understanding that water straight out of the tap works but can be counter-productive for the beneficial micro-organisms in the soil and phylloshere. If you relying on them to feed your plant, then you gotta think about it. If you are feeding you plant with synthetic nutes, then it doesn't matter. However, I've been wrong before. and Ill be wrong again, I suppose its all part of learning.

awesome stuff and thank u very very much, all the help I can get will b much appreciated

Thanks for the kind words. Once you have some beanz popped and start posting the progress, the 420sa fam will be here to assist... Be it growing related or even just equipment related.

I need some tips lol, your plants look amazing and as healthy as could b, hat off to u my friend

Day 12 in dome

Sorry about the bad experience @GoodDoctorDope , good advice from the 420SA fam. Check out the breeders group here, we drop some free tester seeds from time to time.

Harlequins Moved outdoor from 24 hour vegging... Cooling off in the shade, get them accustomed to their new home. Staking and cleaning up off bottoms together with light defoliation Day 8 since cloning these gals and they have already started to root.

A cloning tutorial on how to back up plants before flip 5 Harlequin seedlings and cloning gear In a few dayz these will be flipped. Should any of these impress me we will be able to regrow it in the future.

This is what happens after a good clone sesh...

#3 Like a school group photo, the tall ones at the back.

#1 Frosty Flowers

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Entry #1 Dinafem's Blueberry Cookies in veg and mainlined.

Have Gaul stone issues.. so not much online