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I usually use this as a rule-of-thumb in the beginning then adjust depending on what the plant shows me. Here's a handy chart to help with any deficiencies due to incorrect pH:

Your girls could just be emotional Not joking, but I would legit say some sweet words to them for a few days and see if that made a difference..

What up dudes and dudettes. Was stoked to come across the forum doing some research into lights and have spent hours pouring through some of the content you fine folk have so kindly created for the less knowledgable among us. Local is Lekker ne! As the name suggests I am from KZN, Durban area more specifically. Moving into a spot with room to grow soon, so am looking to build an indoor setup in the next month or two... Paying through my nose for skyf at the moment so hoping growing will help! I am a little bamboozled by some of the terms and ideas I have come across, so will no doubt have tonnes of questions for the more experienced around that are willing to answer. I will probably attempt 1/2 plants outdoors, and start with something small and hopefully user friendly and simple for my first run under lights. Once again, thanks for what I have read so far, and I look forward to partaking and sharing my progress as I go... Maybe even grow something decent at the end of it all. Shot.

Hi fellow growers, It’s rainy and cold in the Cape and it seems like the next outdoor grow is still eternities away. So I decided to do a little write up about my first outdoor grow in South Africa (used to do indoor in my home country). I think it might be beneficial for a first time grower. I hope it’s fine to post it here as this is a grow from 2016. I want to start off with a little background story. After 4 years of not consuming cannabis I decided that it’s about time for cannabis to be part of my life again. I didn’t have connections whatsoever in SA and buying from strangers wasn’t an option for me. I started to do some online research hoping to find seed vendors within South Africa because I didn’t want to risk being caught importing seeds. By that time the only online vendor I could find was Green Smoke Room but I was still very hesitant to order some seeds from them. By coincidence I found a guy on Gumtree who sold San Pedro Cacti and Salvia plants. I figured that he surely knows where to find some cannabis/seeds. My plan was to meet him to buy a San Pedro and then casually ask him if he also has some weed for me. That’s what I did and it all worked out as I hoped it would. I went home with a San Pedro cactus and a little bag with seeded weed. I was so happy to finally have some seeds even though these were bag seeds. Next thing I did was getting some good soil. I went to Stodels (yes I know what you think) as Freedom Farms either didn’t exist back then or I just didn’t have them on my radar. I think I was very lucky to find some awesome soil in a garden center with a PH of 6.3 I think. It might have been the soil from Floragard but I am not too sure about that. As friends and family had some funny ideas about cannabis I decided to do an extra stealthy grow… On our roof . I didn’t fertilize a lot before she went into flower. Only the last weeks of veg I fed her with some Seagrow and in flower I fed her only Biobizz Bloom. The total costs for that grow were something like 300-400 Rand. Below you’ll find some pictures. I only started to document my grow around week 3 after germination. As I was growing on the roof I needed to train the plant quite a lot so she’ll have a low grow profile. The plant got camouflaged by the grapevines pretty well. You see my growspot evolved slowly to counter problems like gale force winds or to keep it invisible to our neighbor. I even watered the plant before the sun came up to make sure nobody sees me. Once the buds fattened up I decided to play it save and build a little cover made from Plexiglas to ensure that rain won’t cause bud rot. Unfortunately the picture below is the last pic I made of the whole plant. This lady actually continued to grow another two weeks before I chopped it. As I harvested more than I expected I had to make a plan where to dry the buds. I figured the attic would be the safest place to dry my plant unnoticed. It worked out quite well, but if you can don’t dry it up there. It can get hot in there which will cause the plant to dry too quickly and also the heat is bad for the terpenes. This plant must have been a Sativa dominant hybrid. I can remember the first time I smoked it I was so full of energy that I had to mow the lawn. It was an awesome high. I decided to post this to show that it’s possible to grow some decent bud even on a very tight budget. I have to add that I was lucky the plant turned out to be female and that she was such a beauty. Bagseed is always a lottery and I think I won the jackpot that summer. I hope you enjoyed my little write-up and I look forward to start a proper grow diary this season.

Hi All, My partner and i have a small scale(24m²) fruiting chamber in which we produce gourmet(only) mushrooms. Growing mushrooms is quite an easy procedure, BUT.... the capital input is high, it is super time consuming and your are fighting against contamination which is EVERYWHERE!!! I have no doubt that the CO2 a bag can produce is viable, but i don't believe this is the best method of CO2 application. also, it seems you would need to turn the air exchange off(exhaust etc) to achieve the adequate PPM . I wonder if you would be able to build a "box/Tote"' with the bags inside that feeds directly into the tent with the cool CO2 rich air drawn in to offset the volume pushed out of the exhaust.

I was just going to say, when you go to seed it becomes a lucky packet. Different phenotypes can have difference preferences. So in order to be able to dial it in 100%, you need to be growing some cuttings to ensure you are growing the exact same plant. I personally do not know of anyone who adjusts PH per plant though, that is a lot of effort and don't think the gain would be worth it in the end. As long as the plant is happy and not showing deficiencies, or excess of a certain nute then it shouldn't be a problem. Maybe if you're on a mass scale like some guys in the states, with a warehouse of a single strain all grown from a cutting - perhaps then its worth it. For us with our 8 plant limit, I dont think so.

I'll get the charts I use for the absorb rate for pH... The deficiency chart is the standard one online... I have learned to visually identify deficiencies so I don't have to use the chart so much. And your idea is sound... Some plants do like different pH... But even as an experienced grower, I still don't know which plants like different pH lol. So stick to basics for now... And when you have run the same plant for a few seasons... The exact same plant... Cuttings and stuff... Then you can play with pH and test things

I'm still gonna stick to my diagnosis.... My plants do that every day thanks to loadshedding Plants sleep... Take a peak at your flowering ladies during their dark cycle...they are also gonna be droopy looking. They perk up about 30 min before lights on so you may never have noticed

CalMag is a double bladed substance. It should more run as NITRATECalMag. It packs a very heavy N punch, adjust your feeding accordingly. I would only use CalMag for Calcium issues as emergency remedy.. use Epsom for Magnesium hassle, way saver to use.

You got it a few online guides promote fluctuating your pH slowly between feeds in order to get the full spectrum of minerals your plants need, but if you can nail it at ~5.8 you'll pretty much be getting everything.

Been running lights at 20/4 since seedling, only changed to 18/6 when the drooping started. I have been, wife is pissed off now because I don't talk to her like that when she feeling ill.

Lol as I was reading this I was like, you must have changed your light schedule or something and lo and behold you did lol What you are seeing is the plants going to sleep... Not tired or anything lol. My thinking is that when you changed the schedule you made it light where it used to be dark... So like. It sounds like the light used to be off 3 hours earlier than now... Which explains the plants going to sleep. Repeat... Not tired plants... Just sleeping

I run my veg/clone area 24/7 I dont experience what you are describing with all my strains. Cannabis is a C3 plant so doesnt need a dark cycle in veg to perform those functions that usually happen in the dark. The only thing I notice is the shorter node spacing of my plants, as node stretch happens in dark.

And the white widow sister Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@prom That's settled then... Will go with the rain water. I have a 40,000L tank as a supply, so I won't have an issue there. Will also just leave the Activera on the shelf for now. I'm looking at running a couple fans on either end of the greenhouse to keep the airflow up. I've heard that PM is a serious problem down here, but that prevention is the best remedy. Still have to look into Pests, PM and deficiencies. I know little to nothing about it all. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to the journey ahead and where it leads... hopefully it leads to some decently sized dense, dank budz. I'd be very happy with that

Use rain water and no need to ph that. You can also skip the activera, that is enzyme for coco to my knowing. The haze will love the pot... and grow easy into a 3 meter tree, if you dont do anything. But you seem to have a plan and look rather prepared. Will end well... Just keep your eyes open for pests and PM. Good air flow is key in a good greenhouse. Rather sure you will end with a good result.. man has a mission

Hi, hope you have a good time here. 6x3.. nice space popping seeds... dump them for 12 hours in a glass with clean water. Put it in the dark and keep it between 20 and 25 C. After 12 hours seeds start to drown too. Then you have three common options. A. Put the seeds directly in soil. For photos, use about 3 pot sizes, repot, when the leaves reach the outside of the pot. B. Plate them. Wet 4 kitchen papers, use 2 per side. Put the moist paper on the plate, seeds, 2 to 3 cm apart next each othrr and cover with the other 2 moist kitchen papers. Second plate on top, flying saucer style. Put it dark and same temp as the glass. When tap roots are 2 cm out use tweazers to transplant... not your fingers. C. Bit like B, you fould the seeds in a moist kitchen towel and put it in a zip lock bag... same handling like plates after that. Your 90 pots are sexy.. but will become a monstrous tree... you have to mainline those or your 220 are not even close to harbour those plants i would go with 40 liters and give them a topping after 4 weeks. Best cage the plants to add stability for the branches... will have huuuuge buds clean the lover 4 to 6 nodes and remove leaves. You can go October, if you look that your youngsters stay warm. Start Nov you are rather save. Perfect time to start slow autos too Biobizz. If you use bio heaven, just follow the feeding table, all you need included. If you work without bio heaven, feed them some epsom salt once a month. Hope that helped

Thanks for the warm welcome so far everyone. @CreX I hadn't thought about working backwards from how much I need to "get off the grid" so to speak. I'm currently going through around 30/40g or so give or take... Bit more than my normal level due to lockdown and boredom But i'm dead keen to start baking a bit... so that will use up some product quick. I am looking at a quatum board 250W type setup for inside... I imagine I could probably manage 4 plants with it? I think I probably need something smaller for when the plants are very young though in addition to the above. With another 1/2 outside, I would have 6 at once, roughly twice a year for maybe 12 plants then in total? At 75g/plant I could potentially achieve 900g. 900/12 = 75g a month. That should be more than sufficient I hope With regard to the medium... This is what I am most unsure of, and funnily the forum hasn't helped so far, the topic seems quite divisive to put it mildly! I just want the cheapest easiest lowest maintenance option while I learn the ropes a bit. I like the idea of a SCROG so am mindful of restrictions that may impose. I could always abandon that idea for now.

I have seen this as well, although its odd considering it started before he reduced the lighting and continued after he reduced it. Perhaps the plants adapted that quickly to the lighting change?

Have to agree with @CreX on this one. I actually saw this on a video I was watching last night on YouTube, was a timelapse of a grow seed to harvest and the guy points out that his plants sort of prepare for the dark cycle before the lights actually go off and start waking up before the lights turn on. Pretty cool video, will try to find the link again...

Had a 1000L Flobin with Talapia in en then 3 x 225L drums for fish solids and Bio filters, so fish poo fed the plants Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

Im with @prom here. Sometimes you just need calcuim... And other times you just need magnesium. I have always tried to seperate them. To mix your own you need a box of Epsom salts, and a same weight bag of calcuim nitrate (it's the part B of hortimix range for quick finding) And then use the one you need. Use the calmag to buffer your meduim before you use the meduim to grow in

I played with co2 generators. Gas, yeast and dry ice... my final result was rather simple. If you do not have a closed environment, where you cook your climate and have all sorted from air intake humidity and temp control plus gas sensors for venting, you just waste money over all. I think i had to vent way to much due to moisture. In a dry environment, makes more sense... in any case you have to run a big ass AC. I PAR my light and got bigger plants... before you invest into a co2 generator.. get a quantum flux meter. There you get bigger plants for sure.

You know guys, every time I ask a question, you are all so extremely helpful, and give me PROPER info that I can rely on. So glad I signed up at 420SA I just wanted to say thanks very much to everyone who took the time. Cheers

That is fantastic. Legendary. According to the blue chart, it seems like between 5.7 - 6.2 are the magic numbers, then. Will be bouncing it between the 2 levels say every other feeding so I can get my CalMag (no lower than 6.0) and Manganese (no higher than 5.8) absorbed. Will be making the necessary adjustments to my feeding schedule. Thanks!

Just a suggestions. Autos should take u roughly 3 months for completion including drying and curing. Depending how much u consume on a monthly basis - autos yield between 40 to 100gz if done perfectly. So maybe its a good idea to run 2 autos at a time for ur perpetual grow.

Thanks so much Evan. This is helpful. Just checking (referring to the blue hydro chart).... So it shows which minerals are NOT absorbed when the PH goes out of the zone of 5.5 - 6.5? For example, my plant will lack Phosphorus if I keep my PH higher than 6.3... And minerals like Nitrogen and Potassium will be absorbed no matter what the PH (within reason). Magnesium will not be absorbed if PH is lower than 5.8. Basically, if I keep the PH between 5.8 and 6, all the necessary minerals will be absorbed, and I'll be just fine.... Do I understand correctly?

@Teal Smith, it depends on the meduim you use. Soil - 6.2 to 6.7 is sharp Hydro - 5.8 to 6.2 Coco - 5.6 to 6.0 seems to give great results And these I would use pretty much all the way through the grow. Unless I spot a deficiency that shouldn't be around... Then I check the deficiency chart and what pH it gets absorbed best and feed at a point or 2 higher or lower than that... Depending if I have a low pH or a high pH issue.

With coco I aim for between 5.9 and 6.2, this is with using GHE nutes. I have not yet experienced any issues. I think @CreX also runs the same PH range as I do?

Hows the air circulation/intake, plants might not be getting enough Co2. would make sense as its only used during lights on.

Maybe the wife is flipping the plants off behind your back

So the ladies are growing happily. Here’s a bit of an update The companion marigold also busy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm, curious to see what others say. I have never ran more than 18 / 6 so not really sure. Never had such issues either.

I'd say get your plants right first before flipping to flower. They still do not look happy and the slow growth is further proof of this. I also like to pot up to 20l pots, I use those are my final pots. Plants look as if they're being burnt.

Yes! Got it backwards

I got mine from Sacred Seeds, otherwise biltong and buds also do fastbuds. They all reputable suppliers, just depends who's got that bean you looking for.

Hello all my name is Madgiant I'm going to be journaling my first grow. I'd love to have community input and share my growing experience. I've ordered 5 autoflower seeds from @Biltong and Budz and will be germinating 4, I'm using FF 10L pots with FF Premium soil. Planning on feeding bio fish during veg and bloom during flower. Genetics I'm planning on growing: Gelato - Fastbuds Flowering Time: 56 Days Wild Dwarf- Bulk Seeds Bank Harvest: 70 Days (This one is for fun) OG Kush- Victory Seeds Flowering Time: 70-77 Days Stardawg-Fastbuds Flowering Time: 70-77 Days Looking forward to share my journey! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

How's it going guys. So my plants have been behaving a little strangely in the last week. About 3 hours before lights out they start drooping which progressively gets worse. By the time lights go out they are drooping so bad it looks like severe over watering. Next morning they are perky and happy, until it nears lights out. Plants are Zour Apple and Banana Daddy by Ethos. I was running lights 20/4 but since changing to 18/6 they have stopped doing this. Is there a limit to the amount of light certain strains can absorb? I'm running the light dimmed and about 50cm above the plants.

And so it begins [emoji23] I just had a pretty crazy idea... may help with data for the poll @PsyCLown started a while ago about beginners and soil. Am a bit useless with technology, will link it in the morning on PC. Gonna head to that thread and explain... Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Howsit 420SA community... I have decided that the time has come to start my very own outdoor grow this season. Better late then never hey... I have built a steel framed Green house (6m X 3m X 2.2m). I have chosen to go with Shade clothe for the sides of the Greenhouse, which I am hoping will help with controlling the high humidity we already experience down here on the coast. I have a plan of my own already based on looking at google and chatting with mates already in the game, but I would really appreciate any advice or help with getting this up and going the best way possible... Planting Fem Photoperiods (Nothing too serious - I got a great selection from Biltong and Budz) - Opinions on how to pop these seeds with the best success rate possible will be greatly appreciated. I am planning to only start my outdoor grow in late October - Early November. As I have heard some guys down here had some issues last season. What are your guys thoughts on this? I will be using a variety of fabric pots ranging in size from 25L, 45L, 55L and even a 90L I will be using FF Premium Classic as a growing medium... Plus I have some worm castings to use when needed. I will be using the Bio Bizz Organic Nutrient range, but would like to know what else others would use, and if KELPAK, CALMAG and EPSOM SALTS would help to aid the grow, or rather have little to no effect at all? I am very excited to get this up and going and will be grateful to any advice from the more experienced growers ono this forum... I am sure with your help and my enthusiasm, I can get this off to the best start possible and look forward to a great season of learning and hopefully resulting some dank budz... Take it Easy everyone and I look forward to hearing what your thoughts and opinions are...

@Bakstein420Hey Buddy... no, I'm just down the coast though in the Eastern Cape... wild coast area to be more precise. However, this just what I've heard from some other guys, and have not had the experience personally... i still need to get growing first before I can talk with experience backing me.

Great write up and story bro. On a low ass budget too

@Teal Smith I use the blue one... But both are really good and quite accurate

Nice one. I'm also using GHE nutes. This is the type of answer I was looking for. Cheers

When I grew photos in coco/perlite they vegged 5,5-5,7 and in flowering 5,7-6, sometimes 6,2 close to the end. I didn't try higher cause it was working well and didn't want to risk it. Some growers work higher tho. They mine field begins..... Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

I wouldn't be surprised, some serious jealousy issues their.

I have never considered Dinafem to be exceptional, about average at best - when compared to your run of the mill cheaper seeds, like the european stuff. I also do not think they are as popular as some other brands, so perhaps the seeds are older?

Quite interesting to see that some of you guys had problems with Dinafem Seeds. So far 10 out of 10 seeds germinated. @Nibiru I grew the PAK too a few times. I didn't struggle with germination but I think the strain is a bit tricky to grow. Sometimes I wonder how old the seeds are when they arrive in South Africa. I mean they are surely stored for some time by the breeder and by the vendor in SA before they get sold to the grower.

What's uuuuuup!! What light are you using? Or are you growing outdoors for now? Do you have any meters to measure pH and EC? Those sound like some yummy genetics man! Best of luck and ask all the questions you need bro

Hey thanks Man. I will be running some Fast buds gentics - Critical Jack, OG Kush, Amnesia Haze, as well as Dutch Passion - Colorado Cookies. I've never done autos, but I'm keen to see how they go. Will be germinating 1 seed at a time in 2-3 week intervals with the intention of creating a perpetual harvest. I'm not sure if that's going to work, guess I'll find out over the next 10-15 weeks.