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They recommend part B since the calcium is essential to buffer the phosphates in the MKP. Calcium sulphate would have been a much better calcium source, but its insoluble in water, so calcium nitrate is the only option really. When I use hortimix, my ratios are 1:1 on part A and B in veg, and shifts to 1:1:1(A,B,Mkp) early flowering and later 1:2(B,mkp) ratio of part B and MKP in peak flower, moving to using only MKP in the last ripening phase, allowing the plant to metabolize the N and fade.3 points
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Unfortunately I couldn't find the bag to test the run off. The the gardener or I may have used it or thrown it away, wasn't much in it. I am considering a weak iron chelate foliar feed on the weekend. I will check her progress until then, before I do. Organilux (pre-potting to FF): 5 days after transplanting to FF. Looking a lot better, still some issues on tips of new growth but i expected such with rootball still being mostly in Organilux.3 points
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I'd be very careful with Kratom. 10 years ago I bought myself 1 kg of that stuff as I read it's not addictive. No question the effects are quite pleasant in the beginning. You'll build up a tolerance quickly and need more and more to get the desired effects. I had to go through serious withdrawal symptoms when I stopped taking it. Be careful when you take it. It's one step away from proper opioids. Rather look for a nice cannabis strain that meets your needs. It's up to you but please think twice about it.2 points
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I had really good success with hortimix. The most crucial part of they nute regime in my opinion... And you gotta do this right away!!! Chuck that feeding guideline away and never consult it again.... Christ I get a hernia just thinging about it.... Eeuiggg I found the mixing recipe ultra weak aswell... I think I doubled it or even tripped it... Just remember to half the dose or third the dose... That made my feeding easier.... Was going through almost half a litre every feed at one point of the weak mix... Not fun lol. I used the entire lot in every feed. A:B:MKP in a ratio as follows. 1:1:1 for veg per litre up to 350ppm/0.7EC 0.5:1:2 for flower from week 3 in flower till harvest 800ppm/1.3EC I ran into shit if I went anywhere near 1000ppm. Also note that I keep a box of Epsom salts on hand and generally add a teaspoon per 10l to every feed as well. When I run out of my current nutes in half a decade, I'll go back to horti2 points
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Yeah, it's difficult with hortimix, as their chart suits veggies and will wreck your grow the moment you go into flowering following it. So my approach evolved around what my plants were telling me. I found that I've never had deficiency or toxicity issues with micro elements, Its always the macros, so running with and tweaking my input on part B and MKP I have found to work for me.2 points
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I started watering more often as this soil doesn't hold water as I'm used to with freedom farm I also increase the nutrients and feeding it at 5.8ph now She is looking a lot better I might be able to save her in time for flip2 points
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Hi guys and gals I am leaning towards getting mammoth Pro 120 tent, which is basically the 1.2 x 1.2 x 200, i am trying to figure out what fan to get. Can anyone suggest any fans? Also any other goodies I should be getting? I think I will be getting the 240w led light from light it up. Thanks guys1 point
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So my baby spinach is turning to flower for the first time and boy was I surprised. These look very suspicious [emoji15] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Thanks man. So I also had to double or triple my dose because the mixture is actually weak and you do end up going through a lot of the stuff just to make like 10l solution! Do you mind sharing your current nute setup? I'm assuming it's also A and B in bulk? Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk1 point
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Thanks, Yeah i think my dosage is too high, Im going to flush and lower and see if that helps. One of my plants is actually your Bubba Kush, which is flowering incredible fast, she is around 2 weeks ahead of the others and they all started the same time!Im really impressed with her and cant wait to sample her!1 point
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Hi Bud Thanks for this, I've had great results in veg, but I was a bit unsure about flower.Interesting enough I emailed them and they said this : 'Part B contains plenty of Nitrogen, whereas Part A contains much less, and part A also contains other macro and trace elements which will be good for flowering, so definitely rather use part A in flowering, and not part B. You can check the labels of both to compare the Nitrogen's content in g/kg. Part B will be fine until about week 3-4 of flowering as it contains Calcium, which is important, just don't use too much. Little goes a long way.' - which kinda goes against your method and also what they say to do in the sheets,Im very confused lol Look the plants are doing fine, actually suffering from to much N atm so I thought let me recheck my nutes configuration, because this is the first time in using this, which lead me here.1 point
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A bit of N during flower is not bad actually. I used Hortimix before, it works well. I cannot remember what ratios I used to use it in though. @CreX perhaps you can assist?1 point
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I speak under correction, but i don't think you can cut N out completely from the formulation.1 point
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Necro! Im trying these out atm, does anyone know why they recommend Part B and MPK in flowering? I thought there is supposed to be no nitrogen in flowering stages?1 point
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What up peeps, Been busy with normal life and didn't get a chance to update until now. The autos are both doing well. The UA1 is doing exceptionally well and is around 55cm tall now, the UA2 is still quite short and don't expect her to stretch much more. Picture time: Day 43 - 2020/11/24 UA1 UA2 Side by side height comparison.1 point
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Just make sure you're ordering from https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/ and not https://www.cannabisseed.co.za/ The missing 's' in the last link stands for 'scam'.1 point
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Heri from Sannies is tops for insomnia. All weed is good for pain...1 point
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Howzit bud. Below a link where you could maybe find something specific. https://www.leafly.com/strains/lists/condition/insomnia1 point
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Hi all, I thought Ill share the following books from my Google drive. Books on general cultivation and organics. Here is a link to free epub reader for window and mac. Great e-book management tool. Caibre Android - I use Moon reader Enjoy1 point
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Here's the process SSA: [*]You will buy 3 packets(parts) of powder from the hydro shop - The three parts are nutrient A, nutrient B and the 3rd part is called MPK [*]Each packet of powder must get dissolved into its own 5L bottle with 5L of dechlorinated water / or preferably RO water. These 3 bottles of nutes will now be referred to as Part A, Part B and MPK [*]You then fill the required amount of dechlorinated water into a suitable container that you want to use as feeding water. You don't need to PH the water yet. [*]You then put the required amount of each part into the container mentioned in the point above and stir or shake the container to mix the nutrients in. [*]Once you've mixed the nutes in you should then test the PH and adjust accordingly. When you add nutrients to water they change the PH so it's pointless changing PH and then mixing the nutes in...you'll just be creating more missions. Hope that helps1 point
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That means you will have 3 (5L) Containers filled with the Nutrients. Eg: I add 1ml of nutrient to 1 liter (4th Container) of ph'd water. Am I suppose to repeat this process with all 3 nutrients (ie. 5th & 6th 1L Containers) OR do I add 1ml of Nutrient A shake to dissolve, add another 1ml of Nutrient B in the same 1L container and shake to dissolve etc? Then I'm suppose to Ph test the combined nutrients to let say 6.5 before I hand-water my plants? Am I understanding this correctly? Please advise on the correct way to do it.1 point
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