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6 weeks from seed today. These girls are just starting to explode. You can see a clear size difference between the tall and short phenos. I'll give then another week for the roots to settle, then I'll flip.

Day 6 of Week 3 Update Got a little feeding this morning, still same. Mix of 1ml Fish Mix and 2ml Bio Heaven. 4th leaf set is done on both, Sisa still a little ahead. Video 26 - 27 May

Quick open box of Shenzhen Yuanhui LED limited's 240W QB Quick connect and plug and play features, leads me to believe these units are waterproof to some degree. Dimmer included, Speedy delivery and great service and feedback throughout delivery process. Included - Meanwell 240w driver The lamp is super light weight and still has a effective heatsink acting as it base. (screws and mounting made for driver on top of the light, but obviously don't do that) without the fan, the light was running around 45% and I could not feel any heat emitting, will update how the light distributes heat in my current grow, but seems to be doing the job more so now with the fan on above. Comes with mental string clippy hanger things, not my favorite but they will work for now. Price R1408 each, Shipping, somewhere around 700/800. Customs for 2 boards was around 700 (ask for a discount on the invoice for customs)(and say for personal use) Very happy with the purchase, light works perfectly and super easy to use. _______________________________________________________________________________- Quick Details Lamp Luminous Efficiency(lm/w): 200 Color Rendering Index(Ra): 80 Support Dimmer: Yes Lighting solutions service: Lighting and circuitry design, auto CAD layout, Project Installation Lifespan (hours): 50000 Working Time (hours): 50000 Application: Seed Starting, BLOOM, VEG, grow house lighting/indoor grow lighting PPFDμmol/(m2·s): 400-700 Input Voltage(V): AC100-240V Lamp Luminous Flux(lm): 44000+ Working Temperature(℃): -20 - 70 Working Lifetime(Hour): 50000 Lamp Body Material: Aluminum IP Rating: IP54 Certification: ce, FCC, RoHS Place of Origin: Guangdong, China Brand Name: Yuanhui Led Limited Model Number: YH-2QB-288 Light Source: LED Warranty(Year): 1-Year Luminous Efficacy(μmol/J): 2.6 Item Name: Plant Grow light Material: Alumimum Led Brand: Sam-sung lm301b Dimmable: Yes Voltage: AC100-240V Power: 240W CCT: 3000K/3000K mix 660nm Driver Brand: Meanwell Spectrum: full spectrum Packaging & Delivery Selling Units: Single item Single package size: 68X34X8 cm Single gross weight: 5.000 kg Package Type: Dimmable Mean Well QB288V2 Warm White Light Sam-sung LED 240W 561C 301B Plant Grow light Kit Normal packing Lead Time: Quantity(Pieces) 1 - 50 >50 Est. Time(days) 14 To be negotiated

@Adansonia digitata Shenzhen Yuanhui LED limited Quick Details Lamp Luminous Efficiency(lm/w): 200 Color Rendering Index(Ra): 80 Support Dimmer: Yes Lighting solutions service: Lighting and circuitry design, auto CAD layout, Project Installation Lifespan (hours): 50000 Working Time (hours): 50000 Application: Seed Starting, BLOOM, VEG, grow house lighting/indoor grow lighting PPFDμmol/(m2·s): 400-700 Input Voltage(V): AC100-240V Lamp Luminous Flux(lm): 44000+ Working Temperature(℃): -20 - 70 Working Lifetime(Hour): 50000 Lamp Body Material: Aluminum IP Rating: IP54 Certification: ce, FCC, RoHS Place of Origin: Guangdong, China Brand Name: Yuanhui Led Limited Model Number: YH-2QB-288 Light Source: LED Warranty(Year): 1-Year Luminous Efficacy(μmol/J): 2.6 Item Name: Plant Grow light Material: Alumimum Led Brand: Sam-sung lm301b Dimmable: Yes Voltage: AC100-240V Power: 240W CCT: 3000K/3000K mix 660nm Driver Brand: Meanwell Spectrum: full spectrum Packaging & Delivery Selling Units: Single item Single package size: 68X34X8 cm Single gross weight: 5.000 kg Package Type: Dimmable Mean Well QB288V2 Warm White Light Sam-sung LED 240W 561C 301B Plant Grow light Kit Normal packing Lead Time: Quantity(Pieces) 1 - 50 >50 Est. Time(days) 14 To be negotiated You probably deal with Abby Zhang, Abby probably speaks better English than me, very helpful, and once made payment, you watch your order go through a series of import/export hurdles quite seamlessly, Fedex called me before delivery and emailed the invoice for customs, once paid, delivery was made within the week. Be nice and ask them to put an invoice for 50% off actual amount for customs, got to thank @Prom for guiding me through. https://yuanhui-led.en.alibaba.com/

Week 3 - Day 19(26/05/2021) Starting to see some new growth but definitely not as fast as i'd like. Also starting to see some signs of stress on the leaves of the plants. Humidy kept between 60 and 70% Temps between 23 and 28 degrees. Seed 1 EHG-COCO: Realised that i did not measure runoff since transplanting and watering. Proceeded to water with plain water PH'd to 6.0. Runoff was measured at 6.5PH and 0.9EC. Way too high. Thinking this is my reason for slow growth. Stupid mistake to make Completely flushed coco in pot with TAP Water. Washed again with PH'd water until runoff was of PH 6.0 Rewatered with EHG Nutrients with PH of 6.0 and EC of 0.5, Biodyne added to nutrients Runoff measured to PH of 6.1 and EC of 0.3 Seed 2 HORTIMIX-COCO: Realised that i did not measure runoff since transplanting and watering. Proceeded to water with plain water PH'd to 6.0. Runoff was measured at 6.6PH and 0.8EC. Way too high. Thinking this is my reason for slow growth. Stupid mistake to make Completely flushed coco in pot with TAP Water. Washed again with PH'd water until runoff was of PH 6.0 Rewatered with HORTIMIX Nutrients with PH of 5.9 and EC of 0.4, Biodyne added to nutrients Runoff measured to PH of 6.0 and EC of 0.3 Seed 3 HORTIMIX-DWC Measured PH to be 6.5 and EC to be 0.4. Thinking PH here was definitely my reason for slow growth and yellowing of leaves. Added 4 drops of PH down. Measured PH to be 6.0 and EC to be 0.4. Also noticed water level dropped abit. So added 2L of HORTIMIX Nutrients with PH of 5.9 and EC of 0.4 Measured PH to be 6.0 and EC to be 0.4. Looking forward to better growth in the coming week. This is their current state.

Day 17 Seeing as I haven't yet given a breakdown of my setup..... It's a fairly straight forward setup with some gear that is getting on a bit now. Veg Tent 1.5 x 1.5 GTHydro tent 250w (early veg) 400w(late veg) MH Bulb 8" Extractor Fan (functioning as active exhaust) Flower Tent 1.5 x 1.5 GTHydro tent 400w(early flower) 600w(late flower) HPS Bulb.... or possibly 2 x 400w HPS throughout 6" Extractor Fan (functioning as passive intake) 40cm Wall Mounted Fan ---------------------------------------------------------- The pic below illustrates how the ventilation process works. The 8" inline fan in the veg tent is exhausting out the tent through a window behind the tent. The 6" inline fan in the flower tent is bringing air into the tent from a different window behind that tent. The tents are then linked with an 8" duct indicated below in the pic. Fortunately, as these tents are two different models, the bottom duct outlets are very close to each other. Keeping the duct short and making it easier for air transfer. When both tents are zipped closed, by pure luck really, a perfect equilibrium is achieved and both tents maintain a steady negative pressure. As the veg tent is sucking air straight from the flower tent, it's ambient temp varies between 1 to 3 degrees higher than the flower tent, when the flower tent's light is on. Which is an added bonus in winter when you want your veg tent to still hold the higher temps.

You're right bud. The tents are hitting a steady 24 to 25C with lights on which I can't complain about. 40% RH I used to have big challenges where I used to stay (Nelspruit) which actually put me off growing when I was living there. In summer a tent would hit 40 sometimes I kid you not. As a result, fluffy bud... AC was out of the question. I've now moved up the hill to White River this year which is a good 4 to 5 degrees colder than Nelspruit at any given time. So I may even be okay in summer, we'll see.

Just a teaser, not an official update, you'll need to wait until Monday to see the twins.

Pic's of the little girls. Giving them a little water round the base every other day. Sent from my DRA-LX5 using Tapatalk

So today was the day Alex came down. This is where all roads lead. Was a awesome grow and almost had a tear with the snip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Added one two worms per pot They come from my wormbin so homemade. *watered after taking these kikies

Ya they look well, I’d just worry about heat dissipation with 3 boards so close together. But I just thinking, can’t say for certain

Those 320W boards look sweet!

They got a few products on alibaba with a min order of 1 piece. Definitely a good buy especially if @ORGANinc.Confirms the quality to be worth it

close up of the board details.

Yea bud just under, after customs. I thought so too. Best price I've seen so had to pull the trigger.

Now you've got me wondering how important paying the bond this month is [emoji1787][emoji1787] Great pricing! Much appreciated cuz. One day... one day... Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Depends, whether or not the pot is getting lighter... Is the plant growing well? If so, leave the pot to dry out for as many days as she needs until she's light, then feed again at normal ratio. If not... Flush the pot with its volume of nute water... So if it's 20l pot..... Put 20l of phd correctly nuted feed (maybe a bit lower as previously stated, depending on how bad the damage already is) through the pot and then let it dry out... Let the plant take a week or more even... As long as it doesn't sit in the water I wouldn't use florakleen to help fix a problem.... It is more designed as a pre harvest flush... Which in my opinion, is not needed, I feed a few days before chop... And I say a few days because that's how long it takes my totes to dry out.

hello my fellow green thumbs, as the title says im using pigeon poop to feed my vegging plants and the love it. i know its very hot but i use a mild mixture. thing is what can i use during the flower stage as the pigeon poop have to much nitrogen content. or do i have to buy flowering nutrient. i know bone meal and such but do you know of a good recipe i can use to flower my plants. thanx for your time..

Day 6: All three ladies looking good, with no complaints. I'm still only feeding them with plain filtered water when I notice the medium drying on the surface. I'll take them outside tomorrow to take better pictures. I have to get myself a humidifier to try up the RH in the tent. I struggle with that in winter being in JHB.

Im just looking forward to having multiple grow cycle's and harvests during the next outdoor season. I like the fact that I wont ever be surprised by males later in the season again when they are already big. I cannot wait to test them in summer and have harvests while everybody else is still vegging. More variety and smaller plants. I will have pure russian fuel F2's, strawberry cola x RF F1's, Purple glam kush x RF F1's to hunt in. Then crossing the winners with cinderella jack, strawberry cheesecake and larry lemon og. I will send you testers as soon as they are ready. Fun times.

Looking lekker

Pigeon is one of the strongest manures. The smaller the animal, the hotter the poop. Talborne is good for soil indoors, if a little bit smelly. Ever time you water it in it releases a whiff of poop. It contains some bone meal and chicken poop. I use some soy meal granules called Naturado that doesn't smell and its decent for flowering indoors.

https://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/fact-sheets/backyard-farming/water-works-pots-soil/ or you could use this experiment as well... it should work the same. you take a sponge and put it on its long side and then add coloured water to fully saturate the sponge. note what happens as per the link. the water gets suspended in the sponge much the same way coco suspends water you will have the little bit of coloured water sitting at the bottom of the sponge. Now add a second colour and see how it works. the first colour should be pressed out of the sponge by the weight of the new water, and there should be very little mixing of the two colours

a conclusive experiment would be to take coco, saturate it with a coloured food colouring... leave the pot to dry out a bit, and then feed the pot with a different colour dye and see how what colour the water comes out as. for exmple start with blue, and then when the pot dries a bit, use yellow. what im saying is going to happen, is that the blue will come out the pot first, as the same blue you put into the pot, and may fade to a green runnoff as the yellow mixes with the blue as opposed to the water running out as green from the first bit of runoff after putting the yellow water in

Mhhhhhhh... People and their LUX/Lumens meters If I remember correct, Veg you are more in the area of 30-40k Lux on the plant. All depends a bit what camera your phone uses.. you should aim for 500 micromole PAR light on the plant.. Lux includes green for example. PAR doesn't. If you got instructions with your light.. use those hanging distances. More accurate as a Lux meter, they measured the distances for the right PAR setup.

Ya bro, literally very simple and easy process, I was a lot more confident when buying because of your advice though. Yeah bro do it, i'm super happy with the buy. new gear is always a treaaaat!

Hi, Sorry guys but my fibre has been down. I have germinated all three seeds and will be putting them in the pots today. I have taken pics of the whole process that I will be uploading later today. Regards

And it was way less complicated as you imagined, right? A few people I know are disturbed to chat to a sales person before they can pay. I kinda like it, as you know you will get what you want. 3000k 660nm mix is exactly what I use on all my QBs.. found no difference between V2 and V3 diodes. Thinking in getting me 2 of those double QBs too.. using it in the Flower tent for the extra kick, if needed. Rand is strong right now.. not a bad time to get some gear

none of my qbs have heatsinks, and i can touch them all for as long as i want... so i rate those should be good enough

Look to be half inch fins sprayed black, very very light weight. Does the job, but obviously would not be as effective as heavier thicker heatsinks. But Ill be sure to treat them right. Will post an image when i'm home.

i didnt read this properly. but yes...that is exactly what im saying. if you have coco and no plant... you put in 5l of water @500ppm, if you flush the plant with 20l of water you will get all~ (95%) of the nutes back but the nutes will be in 20l now and the ppm will be much much lower... likely 125ppmish~

As the water dries, salts are left behind. correct. but salts prefer to stay in the dissolved form if there is enough water available. so as the pot dries out (which will take weeks without a plant) the nuts slowly fall out of solution and become salts again... but the bulk of the solution would sink to the bottom of the pot and then when it dries out would put more salts into the meduim, but at the bottom... which is why the bottom of the fabric pots tend to get a bit grimey and cakes with the salt nutes, and not the top of the pots. the coco cation sites get filled mostly by calcuim and potassuim, leaving little space for the other elements to be grabbed by the coco's cation sites. those other elements remain suspended in the water as long as there is enough water in the pot. when the water starts being absorbed by the plant, then the elements precipitate out onto the surface of the coco, not absorbed or anything... they are just there, on the coco. Edit - the calcium and potassium that is absorbed by the cation sites ARE NOT AVAILABLE TO THE PLANT so now when you add fresh wet water, it saturates the meduim again, and because dry salts do not immediately dissolve again, they are carried further down the pot towards the bottom. it depends on the size of your pot... putting in 1l is not going to nourish your plant for very long... you will need to feed daily like that. i also dont even think 1l would reach the bottom of the pot without the coco holding it in suspension. and if you are allowing run off to happen, then 1000 liters of water would never be harmful to the plant...it would actually be highly beneficial if you could get the flow right... think ebb and flow systems or pump and dump or RDWC ... they all flow hundreds of litres through the meduim they use... a few times a day even. so yes, 5l in a 20l pot is way better than 1l . the idea of the ppm levels we use, is so that the plant has everything it needs....READILY AVAILABLE... not partially available, or sparsely available... technically, if you used a lower ppm there would be 2 issues. one being there is obviously just straight up less nutrients per drop of water and the plant will have to search a bit harder to get what it needs. second.... the plant uses the nutrients and again battles to find more. it is a delicate operation every time we feed...to watch the plants and see how they react... i know if i feed my veg plants 250ppm for a few feeds, and my bottom leaves will go yellow because of lack of nutes... likewise i know if i feed my veg at 600ppm... im gonna see crispy plants... we give our plants what we give them and the value we give them...because we are seeing happy growth and nothing else. to illustrate, as mentioned earlier, if you have an established plant and you have been feeding till no runoff and the plant is happy... but you just want to check runoff to see where you may be... then you get your normal feed ready (eg.500ppm) and you ph it correctly. then you feed your plant until you can collect enough runoff to test with. guaranteed the ppm of the runoff will be higher than your input feed if your plant is happy. that in itself should be an experiment result to prove that salts get pushed out the pot.

Yeah, sorry that was a kak update from me. Busy week and I did not explain it properly, sorry The stretch is from the seedling/clone tent. I could not lower the light there because of my other clones. So I was expecting some stretch. Earlier this week I moved the three seedlings into the veg tent under the 240w QB. I'm pretty sure I started off with it too low, which is why I decided to lift it. I'm watching to see how they do under the bigger lights and lowering every other day until I'm happy. A PAR meter would be nice, but in its absence I'm just aiming not to scorch them. Lower until it is too much then back off a bit (tm) Thanks again for the advice though :)

All 3 are peeking out the soil, checking out their options, one in particular more than the others but all in all looks like it's going to be a 3/3 germination here

Dnd minis Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so it all comes down to ratios of the elements after a feed. you want the plant to have access to nutrients all the time. you never want your plant without nutes. if you have a problem with your plant that necessitates a flush, then you would go in with a lower dose...as if the plant was a smaller plant. but once growth is normal again... you should resume at the EC you were at before the problems came up. so with the ratios. if you feed a plant no till run off, you stand a chance that high levels of un absorbed elements will build up and cause trouble this is further exaggerated if you add clean water... as the plant will absorb the nutes from the previous feed in the same fassion as before, and further throw out the ratios within the medium... that is why you should feed till run off in coco... you are clearing the imbalance out and realigning the ratios to where you would like them. if you do this each feeding... the medium will always have the right ratio of nutrients... and not a high EC with perhaps too much phosphorus or potassiom or iron or whatever

Naaaaa ^^ let them grow a bit ^^ They responded well to the increase of light.. i decided to increase it again a bit. 26 May 535 micromole PAR Dang.. forgot .. 75cm distance to the Plant

Just a quick peek. Day 7ish and all 3 pretty uniform for now.

All looking good after 4 days in soil. Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk

Thanks to everyone that assisted from diagnosis to treatment, my plant that was heavily infested has bounced back in tremendous fashion.

Hey guys Printing off this poster today as I will be working at the Bathurst Fun Day this weekend with a rep from Cheeba/Qure. I will be selling locally grown CBD products with a little "phytocannabinoids", home made pipes, bamboo rolling trays and talking some cannabiz.

Honestly in winter, those HIDs are fitting the purpose tremendously. I thinking if adding an extra 400w-1200w for heating if opting for cooler lighting solutions, you behind on the bill and behind on the environment. Well played @420SA

where are you based? try make contact with the Zetler Family, they own a bunch of strawberry farms and got into commercial cannabis growing here in the Western Cape. They're more focussed on the export of actual cannabis, so don't see anything about hemp. they might either be able to sort you out or help you go in the right direction. https://www.cannabiz-africa.com/first-legal-cannabis-export-in-sa/ you can find them by contacting the strawberry farms and setting up a meeting with one of the family members or what not. also, someone on here that might be able to help with this is @Chris Jay , you know of anyone?

Tried to get some close up shots of the leader. You know the end product is going to be high quality if you see those tiny hairs developing at this stage[emoji16] Also added a pic of my microbes and sick bay treatment items should I need them. I used the biodyne already as a spray on all the ladies already. Also I fed the ladies last night their first weak solution of nutrifeed. Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I use Lava dust in my soil, but if you going to add after it's okay, and so is Diatomaceous earth. I must add, the Diatomaceous earth is going to take slightly longer to breakdown and be available, hence why I use Lava dust.

actually also wouldn't suggest filtered water as this gets rid of too much, same with any heavily conditioned water. your plants wat those trace amounts of zinc, copper, molybdenum and couple other of the metals we have in our tap water. best is fresh oxygenated spring water or fresh oxygenated rain water. for organic growing this is

Hello mense, I haven't used greenhouse powder feeds because the price is our of my range. R1200 per kg is too much for my purse. It does look like very good stuff and I'm sure it will work well. I have used talborne pellets indoors and they do work very well. I put I on the top of my soil every 2 weeks throughout the grow. The problem I have with it indoors is the smell. The stuff stinks to high heaven and I think it has some urea in it, which isn't the best form of N for cannabis. For the last few years I have swapped over to Naturado granular ferts. Its R100 a KG from the garden centre and the main component is soy cake and oilseed meal. I top dress every 2 weeks with roughly 1 tablespoon for every 5 litres of soil and I can feed a whole crop with roughly half a box of it.