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Yeah these competitions are an amazing way to learn. Its the best and cheapest cannabis school around. Such a great community, thanks again everyone :)

18 days since germination began. 13 days since they sprouted. Not sure when you are meant to count from or when it goes from seedling to veg. 32 days to deadline for flipping #1 still the front runner

Whats up guys!! i already hear you all asking... WTF is a perched water table, and can i Drink it? this is some very important information regarding pots and mediums that i feel should be available here on the forum. Well, basically, the perched table is the saturation point, where the capillary action in the soil is canceled out by the force of gravity. Every type of growing media has a different perched table. Capillary action will pull water up from a certain point, and below that point, gravity keeps the water from moving up. The size of the container does not affect the height at which the perched table occurs. See the figure below. If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: the level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. This information is very important for us cannabis growers as finding a happy medium is always tricky. If the same potting medium is used, irrespective of the size or shape of the pot, the perched water table always stays the same height because it is determined by the wicking ability of the potting medium, since gravity doesn’t change. The way to increase drainage of the perched water table is to add materials throughout all of the potting medium to increasing the air spaces in the mix and reduce capillary action. Perlite and vermiculte are materials which are used as soil amendments, and both are minerals that are made more porous by expanding them with heat, much like popcorn. Because they have large air spaces within them, they are used to increase the drainage and aeration in potting mixes. Perlite mainly increases drainage, while vermiculite will also hold some moisture and help retain nutrients too. Mixing either of these amendment materials right though a potting mix will increase aeration, improve drainage and reduce the height of the perched water table. The lower the perched water table, the more frequently you will need to water, the higher the perched water table, the riskier it becomes for the plants roots which are navigating below the PWT. another way to lower the PWT if you already have plants in your medium, is to raise the pot off the floor onto a grid of sorts so that the floor doesnt stop the drainage of water as easily if it were flat on the floor. EDIT - Sources https://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/13774/what-is-a-perched-water-table#:~:text=There is%2C in every pot,not allow it to drain. https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2019/09/06/should-you-put-gravel-or-rocks-at-the-bottom-of-plant-pots-for-drainage/

So after 3 and a bit weeks I am going to eliminate one of the seedlings. The one in the first pic is going. It is strechy and internodal spaces is double that of the other 2 plants. They will go under one light and in one pot.

Day 4 of week 4.. the First June 2021 Update Got nothing, pot still wet from the flooding from yesterday Had load shedding.. so there is a little jump, I didn't move the cam with the plants into the mother tent, running on battery backup.

Aaaand there taking off. Looking very happy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting topic, I had a discussion with a farm manager at a HUGE farming business in Mooketsi area last week. I was puzzled when he said that they are doing chlorine foliar applications on some of the fruit baring tree crops. I will try make time to look it up in the study material.

Because it stems from American growers, their water tend to have much higher concentrations in some areas. Chlorine is not an issue, if you can smell it in the water then the levels are elevated and only then would I either run it through activated carbon or let it stand. But even if you let it stand you still have to worry about chloramines, chlorine is not really the only thing you want to remove. That being said, I only grow with tap water, using RO water is purely negligent waste of a precious resource. Do you really want to start stabbing people in their backs with devices to suck their fluids out their bodies to drink? (TankGirl reference).

6 days later , doing very well . Fed 2days ago 1ml/L Rootjuice and Bio Heaven just to give something although it's not necessary , that soil has been very friendly to the girl . Moved then from the clone light to my veg light and they under 4000K again. Will see in the next week if and how I want to train them . Pics was taken outside again , veg room is to cramped up , so they got a teeny tiny bit of sunlight . If this is not exceptable....well then I'll try something else that is way more effort . Live and let live

Reusing soil you had on flower before... can be problematic. If you did a flush, less stress, if you didnt flush at all and used nutes till the end.. that mix is hot like hell Dont used that soil as seed starter... even would suggest to use it for repotting only once you go flower. And stick to water only the first two weeks. You dont know what NPK ratio is in that soil. Expect to run into issues. Best would be to flush the soil before you use it and add a bit more perlite to the mix. Easier to flush if you need to flush again. BioBizz Bloom should be back on the shelves soon... dont look to far for options.

The effects will vary depending on the area and the quality of the growers municipal supply. This is a countrywide forum with how many municipalities??? Every grower must use their own discretion so I'd like to suggest caution with blanket advocation. RSA water purification makes use of chlorine and chloromine. The antibacterial effects of chlorine are strong but of short duration, hence the use of chloromine as a secondary longer term anibacterial, which can stay active in water for 8 to 10days. Our municipality has mucked up our water too many times-that we know of. As a grower I don't know what the levels are by the time the water comes out the tap. It may have a negative effect or not, the point is, I dont know so I use my own discretion. Personally we try to grow as natural as possible, as organic as possible, so we use rainwater.

Did my first snips ^^, 6 to be correct. Removed both Cotyledons and the leaves and branches of the first 2 nodes. You see it in the video tomorrow ^^ not sure we count the snips on the Coty's.. they were yellowed anyhow 4 snips..

Correct sir. Watered yesterday so is still pretty moist because it has been very cold here hasn't dried nearly as quickly as normal. Soil is not from compost as such... just dug out the bank I'm gonna be levelling off one day, small hole visible in pic Ok... so... repotted this morning. Gave the 22l pot 1.5l water when done, mixed in teaspoon Epsom salts and 1g Iron Chelate I'm case of iron or sulphur shortages. Will lay off the watering and the fish mix for the rest of week and let the pot dry out fully again... if I haven't seen improvement by then I think the 60l flush may be the answer. Will try get a friend with a ph meter over to measure the runoff perhaps. Dudes, you are legends! Appreciate you all very much [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Don't you want to re-pot those?? Are a bit big for the cup size you use.

@Bos hahahah yeah fuck sounds like you got a full plate there!!! understandable! what area you in man? I could possibly gift you a colonised bag and all you have to do is poke a few holes, keep it in a well lit humid place with no direct sunlight, maybe spray a few squirts of tap water once or twice a day and watch them grow? let me know @PsyCLown indeed it is, constant new challenges and constant rewards!!!

Aint enough time in a day for me to do all the stuff I want....allready father of 2, stepdad to 2 more, working full time shift, 4x4 enthuisiast, handyman, mechanic and cannabis grower, also just got engaged.... I'll sleep when I'm dead. One day soon, got enough stuffs on my plate just now....hahaha.

more King Trumpets, boiiiii

And we start to dig in now.

Update The three ladies are going strong. Albeit a bit slow with the cold weather. The temps have not ben grand this side, but we power on They got a nice feeding yesterday of some good nutes already and did not even flinch

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you, the twins, the stunners the growing goddesses themselves! Will be naming them after work when each has their own pot. 25liter Pots from Afribloom, Richards-bay's best Agricultural Shop. Soil: Aqua Terra from GHE mixed with Earth Worm Castings. (yes, I previously said I'm not adding EWC and look at me now)

Progress! Just since watered once with plain pH 5.8 water.

what's up man! what exactly you aiming to do? It sounds like you wana know how to grow? if so you would need a few things and quite a bit of info. If you haven't done any research or haven't worked with mushrooms or with someone who's worked with them I would suggest doing some research on the broad spectrum of exotic mushroom cultivation. then you take from that what would work best for you, maybe start setting things up and getting resources together then we can talk again about where you need some help and what you need help to understand. the reason is, there are 3 phases of growing mushrooms, if you can spend money whole time you can get away with doing only 1 phase. if you wana save some money you have to do 2 of the phases and becomes more risky and you need more resources and knowledge. if you really wana not spend anything I gotta take you through the whole process of selecting a mushroom to clone and then doing tissue culture and all that. and with all these different things that need different resources you get different techniques of doing every second thing and it all depends on your given situation what environment you're working with what you need to do. so I really can't just "give you a few pointers", but if it was basics you looking for, what you see in the pics is mostly my grow room. Humidity is 85 - 95% at all times. Temperature 17-24°C all times. Good air circulation and what not. Also, almost every second mushroom want different environments, so if I wana switch to shiitake I have to change a few things. Shiitake actually prefers growing outside on solid hard wood. whole different story, but very fun back yard project. @Bos Indeed I have!!! chopped into strips, a heavy spoon of butter in the pan, salt, pepper and sweet white wine, cooked them till the edges became crispy. couldn't stop eating my lady and I split the 270g big boy, it was a whole meal by itself. pretty soon I will be growing these off nut tree wood

KING TRUMPET first one for the colder months compared to regular sized oyster the weigh in

put some LED strip, mushrooms showing a lot more colour when grown under supplemented lights, looks like someones watching movies inside my grow room Grey Oysters Elf Oysters

2 Week mark Started with LST training today on A and B , (C has been topped and left sins day 12)

Hi all Lost two of my girls but the Giraffe is still fine, has a bit of a yellowish color but I experienced some humidity problems. Think too low humidity(under 50%)and too high temp 28+ but not giving up, everyday learning something. SkunkPharm & PsyClown I grow in Cocos Substrate from Holland, will post a picture next time.

Yeah and it's R80 [emoji91][emoji3104][emoji91] Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk

So basically, it is easier to drown a plant in a smaller / shorter pot compared to a bigger / taller pot, even when both have had water added to them until run off? Any idea how this differs between coco and soil and the mixes with added perlite etc?

80% humidity.. if you put a small little electric heater in that tent and raise the temp, the humidity level will drop very quick. Vent less the tent but keep the inside fans on max to mix the air well. Temperature is the easiest way to reduce humidity. I only add the dehumidifier when it is already hot.. it cools and dehumidifies in one go. Now, with 18.5 degrees.. little 400 watt temp regulated wall plug heater would take PM out of your good night dreams You get those at Takealot.. or where ever you find them.. cheap and 400 watt isn't 1200 watt my dehumidifier leeches out of the wall At 22 degrees, you should already be below 60% humidity.. the plants also enjoy the extra heat.

Thanks Prom. I hope bloom on thr shelves sooner than later. On previous use the soil was thoroughly flushed and flushed agin before I repotted clones about two weeks ago. Only mistake i made was using to a stronger dose of pyrol and got some burn. Looking okish Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

i actually found out that Perlite doesnt actually assist much with drainage\aeration per se... but what it does assist with bigtime is lowering the Perched water table in the pot. the perched water table is the level of water in your pot when it is saturated fully. Capillary action pulls water up into the pot while gravity pushes water down into the pot. where these two forces equalize, is called the perched water table of the medium. straight coco can have the potential of a high perched water table due to the small particles of coco which are attracted to water. adding perlite with its generally larger particles creates surfaces which are resistant to capillary action, thus lowering the upward force, creating a lower perched water table.

To much chlorine is not good... using chlorinated water from the tap, is not of benefit for your micro organisms in the pot. Doesnt mean you cant grow in tap water... but chlorine toxicity is possible on cannabis plants. Chorine is a micronutrient, needs veeeery little to keep a plan happy. If you are bound to tap water... use a waterfilter with a charcoal filter, good for you too, shouldnt disturb your micro life in the pot. Overwatering with untreated tap water can disturb your pot very much and add time till the plant swings back.

If you let the plant to long in the hot mix, she will suffer more. If you can exclude overwatering, flush it asap. Forgot... add more perlite to your soil mix, at least 20% more. Helps airing the roots.

i would go with the 60l flush

Update: Day 19 of veg Some pretty clear curling of the leaves today, and T2 (at the back) is growing quite a bit slower that the other two. I need to check the EC of my ferts, it would appear that its quite a bit too high at the moment. Fortunately I'm growing in coco so correcting this is pretty simple. I've flushed this morning and will test runoff until I'm happy before starting with the newly mixed (and EC tested) ferts. Apart from that the plants are looking healthy and strong. My night time temps are now around 17 so I'm watching to see if I need to do anything about that

It is just very dark rich soil. Pretty soft loose and crumbly in fingers... Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Soo very cool. Growing mushrooms is quite fun, in the way growing weed is fun. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Salivating right now, evil person you.... Frying pan butter and garlic-dinner sorted.

Yes, it is safe to do so. Take a look at my auto flower grow, I did some serious leaf defol on some of my auto plants and I feel yield has been very good. I got around 100g dry from the LSD-25, have not weighed the others yet and still need to finish trimming them. EDIT: By now your auto has already formed the bud and it's either going to fatten and mature, or perhaps just mature. So I do not see any harm in removing some of the fan leaves, I do it all the time with my photoperiod plants from veg and all the way through the stretch / pre-flowering phase and even in flower and towards the end of flower.

Not sure I would trust that soil PH 3 in 1 meter thingy if you stick it into the coco. You could try adding a bit of calmag to your nute mix if you wanted, otherwise if you are really worried about the ph in the coco then run a few liters of nute feed which is PH'd through the coco - perhaps 6L and let it pour out and this should help "flush" any excess nutes in the coco. So best to do it in a bath tub, shower or outside. As for light penetration, remove some of the lower fan leaves and the dieing ones.

@BroMo come and join the comp again!

just what ever you decide to spray... please dont spray it on your flowers? there are a bunch of good advices and products to use here... but spraying your flowers should be only a last resort before terminating that flower and starting over. i have heard of a lot of people that neem makes the smoke taste bad or less nice compared to plants that were not treated with neem. Pyrol is not carcenogenic... but best be safer rather than in trouble. and then literally everything else would be a huge nono for flowering plants

I have decided to top one of them very early to see what the results is tortoni (C)

Day 12 Looks like the ladies is doing good , Did the first feeding 400PPm grow , cal/mag PH:5.8

Sunday IPM and defoliation day. All the fan leaves have been stripped except the top few in prep for flip. Real nice little Christmas tree structures. Clones taken. Before After

Wow, those look great[emoji7]. I wont lie, that's such a better method of growing. Being in this competition and watching everyone share their methods and stories is really making me start to question everything I've been doing and everything I think I know about Cannabis[emoji28] Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

My first entry on this forum and present everyone with: 1. The Night Stalk-er 2. The Bermuda Triangle 3. Strawberry High-Way

Almost reaching the end of seedling stage for me. I've given 2 weeks for the plants to do their own thing and sometime this weekend will be day 1 of veg. I seem to be one of the lucky one's that have had minimal stretch. The @Light It Up light is 600mm above @Totemic genetics and dialled down to 160w. Using various apps on two phones I am averaging what I think are good numbers on not so precise instruments. DLI - 27 PPFD - 390 Lux - 23 Having problems uploading pics out in the bush today. I'll try again later.