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Yeah these competitions are an amazing way to learn. Its the best and cheapest cannabis school around. Such a great community, thanks again everyone :)

18 days since germination began. 13 days since they sprouted. Not sure when you are meant to count from or when it goes from seedling to veg. 32 days to deadline for flipping #1 still the front runner

Whats up guys!! i already hear you all asking... WTF is a perched water table, and can i Drink it? this is some very important information regarding pots and mediums that i feel should be available here on the forum. Well, basically, the perched table is the saturation point, where the capillary action in the soil is canceled out by the force of gravity. Every type of growing media has a different perched table. Capillary action will pull water up from a certain point, and below that point, gravity keeps the water from moving up. The size of the container does not affect the height at which the perched table occurs. See the figure below. If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: the level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. This information is very important for us cannabis growers as finding a happy medium is always tricky. If the same potting medium is used, irrespective of the size or shape of the pot, the perched water table always stays the same height because it is determined by the wicking ability of the potting medium, since gravity doesn’t change. The way to increase drainage of the perched water table is to add materials throughout all of the potting medium to increasing the air spaces in the mix and reduce capillary action. Perlite and vermiculte are materials which are used as soil amendments, and both are minerals that are made more porous by expanding them with heat, much like popcorn. Because they have large air spaces within them, they are used to increase the drainage and aeration in potting mixes. Perlite mainly increases drainage, while vermiculite will also hold some moisture and help retain nutrients too. Mixing either of these amendment materials right though a potting mix will increase aeration, improve drainage and reduce the height of the perched water table. The lower the perched water table, the more frequently you will need to water, the higher the perched water table, the riskier it becomes for the plants roots which are navigating below the PWT. another way to lower the PWT if you already have plants in your medium, is to raise the pot off the floor onto a grid of sorts so that the floor doesnt stop the drainage of water as easily if it were flat on the floor. EDIT - Sources https://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/13774/what-is-a-perched-water-table#:~:text=There is%2C in every pot,not allow it to drain. https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2019/09/06/should-you-put-gravel-or-rocks-at-the-bottom-of-plant-pots-for-drainage/

So after 3 and a bit weeks I am going to eliminate one of the seedlings. The one in the first pic is going. It is strechy and internodal spaces is double that of the other 2 plants. They will go under one light and in one pot.

Day 4 of week 4.. the First June 2021 Update Got nothing, pot still wet from the flooding from yesterday Had load shedding.. so there is a little jump, I didn't move the cam with the plants into the mother tent, running on battery backup.

Aaaand there taking off. Looking very happy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting topic, I had a discussion with a farm manager at a HUGE farming business in Mooketsi area last week. I was puzzled when he said that they are doing chlorine foliar applications on some of the fruit baring tree crops. I will try make time to look it up in the study material.

Because it stems from American growers, their water tend to have much higher concentrations in some areas. Chlorine is not an issue, if you can smell it in the water then the levels are elevated and only then would I either run it through activated carbon or let it stand. But even if you let it stand you still have to worry about chloramines, chlorine is not really the only thing you want to remove. That being said, I only grow with tap water, using RO water is purely negligent waste of a precious resource. Do you really want to start stabbing people in their backs with devices to suck their fluids out their bodies to drink? (TankGirl reference).

6 days later , doing very well . Fed 2days ago 1ml/L Rootjuice and Bio Heaven just to give something although it's not necessary , that soil has been very friendly to the girl . Moved then from the clone light to my veg light and they under 4000K again. Will see in the next week if and how I want to train them . Pics was taken outside again , veg room is to cramped up , so they got a teeny tiny bit of sunlight . If this is not exceptable....well then I'll try something else that is way more effort . Live and let live

Reusing soil you had on flower before... can be problematic. If you did a flush, less stress, if you didnt flush at all and used nutes till the end.. that mix is hot like hell Dont used that soil as seed starter... even would suggest to use it for repotting only once you go flower. And stick to water only the first two weeks. You dont know what NPK ratio is in that soil. Expect to run into issues. Best would be to flush the soil before you use it and add a bit more perlite to the mix. Easier to flush if you need to flush again. BioBizz Bloom should be back on the shelves soon... dont look to far for options.

The effects will vary depending on the area and the quality of the growers municipal supply. This is a countrywide forum with how many municipalities??? Every grower must use their own discretion so I'd like to suggest caution with blanket advocation. RSA water purification makes use of chlorine and chloromine. The antibacterial effects of chlorine are strong but of short duration, hence the use of chloromine as a secondary longer term anibacterial, which can stay active in water for 8 to 10days. Our municipality has mucked up our water too many times-that we know of. As a grower I don't know what the levels are by the time the water comes out the tap. It may have a negative effect or not, the point is, I dont know so I use my own discretion. Personally we try to grow as natural as possible, as organic as possible, so we use rainwater.

Did my first snips ^^, 6 to be correct. Removed both Cotyledons and the leaves and branches of the first 2 nodes. You see it in the video tomorrow ^^ not sure we count the snips on the Coty's.. they were yellowed anyhow 4 snips..

Correct sir. Watered yesterday so is still pretty moist because it has been very cold here hasn't dried nearly as quickly as normal. Soil is not from compost as such... just dug out the bank I'm gonna be levelling off one day, small hole visible in pic Ok... so... repotted this morning. Gave the 22l pot 1.5l water when done, mixed in teaspoon Epsom salts and 1g Iron Chelate I'm case of iron or sulphur shortages. Will lay off the watering and the fish mix for the rest of week and let the pot dry out fully again... if I haven't seen improvement by then I think the 60l flush may be the answer. Will try get a friend with a ph meter over to measure the runoff perhaps. Dudes, you are legends! Appreciate you all very much [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Don't you want to re-pot those?? Are a bit big for the cup size you use.

@Bos hahahah yeah fuck sounds like you got a full plate there!!! understandable! what area you in man? I could possibly gift you a colonised bag and all you have to do is poke a few holes, keep it in a well lit humid place with no direct sunlight, maybe spray a few squirts of tap water once or twice a day and watch them grow? let me know @PsyCLown indeed it is, constant new challenges and constant rewards!!!

Aint enough time in a day for me to do all the stuff I want....allready father of 2, stepdad to 2 more, working full time shift, 4x4 enthuisiast, handyman, mechanic and cannabis grower, also just got engaged.... I'll sleep when I'm dead. One day soon, got enough stuffs on my plate just now....hahaha.

more King Trumpets, boiiiii

And we start to dig in now.

Update The three ladies are going strong. Albeit a bit slow with the cold weather. The temps have not ben grand this side, but we power on They got a nice feeding yesterday of some good nutes already and did not even flinch

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you, the twins, the stunners the growing goddesses themselves! Will be naming them after work when each has their own pot. 25liter Pots from Afribloom, Richards-bay's best Agricultural Shop. Soil: Aqua Terra from GHE mixed with Earth Worm Castings. (yes, I previously said I'm not adding EWC and look at me now)

Progress! Just since watered once with plain pH 5.8 water.

what's up man! what exactly you aiming to do? It sounds like you wana know how to grow? if so you would need a few things and quite a bit of info. If you haven't done any research or haven't worked with mushrooms or with someone who's worked with them I would suggest doing some research on the broad spectrum of exotic mushroom cultivation. then you take from that what would work best for you, maybe start setting things up and getting resources together then we can talk again about where you need some help and what you need help to understand. the reason is, there are 3 phases of growing mushrooms, if you can spend money whole time you can get away with doing only 1 phase. if you wana save some money you have to do 2 of the phases and becomes more risky and you need more resources and knowledge. if you really wana not spend anything I gotta take you through the whole process of selecting a mushroom to clone and then doing tissue culture and all that. and with all these different things that need different resources you get different techniques of doing every second thing and it all depends on your given situation what environment you're working with what you need to do. so I really can't just "give you a few pointers", but if it was basics you looking for, what you see in the pics is mostly my grow room. Humidity is 85 - 95% at all times. Temperature 17-24°C all times. Good air circulation and what not. Also, almost every second mushroom want different environments, so if I wana switch to shiitake I have to change a few things. Shiitake actually prefers growing outside on solid hard wood. whole different story, but very fun back yard project. @Bos Indeed I have!!! chopped into strips, a heavy spoon of butter in the pan, salt, pepper and sweet white wine, cooked them till the edges became crispy. couldn't stop eating my lady and I split the 270g big boy, it was a whole meal by itself. pretty soon I will be growing these off nut tree wood

KING TRUMPET first one for the colder months compared to regular sized oyster the weigh in

put some LED strip, mushrooms showing a lot more colour when grown under supplemented lights, looks like someones watching movies inside my grow room Grey Oysters Elf Oysters

Howzit man. Sorry about your loss. By the looks of things it seems that your medium is left to become a bit too dry. Correct me if i'm wrong. Feel the pot. Lift the pot. Be the pot. I would feed a very light nutrient solution to brighten her up a bit. She seems hungry. Sterkte bruv!

The Cocos Substrate I'm using :

Haven't had to do any fertilizing to any plants in the ground yet Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

i actually found out that Perlite doesnt actually assist much with drainage\aeration per se... but what it does assist with bigtime is lowering the Perched water table in the pot. the perched water table is the level of water in your pot when it is saturated fully. Capillary action pulls water up into the pot while gravity pushes water down into the pot. where these two forces equalize, is called the perched water table of the medium. straight coco can have the potential of a high perched water table due to the small particles of coco which are attracted to water. adding perlite with its generally larger particles creates surfaces which are resistant to capillary action, thus lowering the upward force, creating a lower perched water table.

To much chlorine is not good... using chlorinated water from the tap, is not of benefit for your micro organisms in the pot. Doesnt mean you cant grow in tap water... but chlorine toxicity is possible on cannabis plants. Chorine is a micronutrient, needs veeeery little to keep a plan happy. If you are bound to tap water... use a waterfilter with a charcoal filter, good for you too, shouldnt disturb your micro life in the pot. Overwatering with untreated tap water can disturb your pot very much and add time till the plant swings back.

Haha shot yeah. The barrenness is due to clearing all the stuff that used to live there. Needed to see underneath the plants to see how much clearing we could do. Anything and everything planted on that bank loves life to the max ordinarily... Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Honestly, it's comes down to preference or more situational. I used tap water in my current organic grow and I'm about 2 weeks away from harvest with no issues. In fact it's been the easiest grow until now. However it is important to know what you have in your tap water, my ppm is at 500 from the tap, oxygenate it and it might come down to about 450ish. Now do you want to use that with your synthetics where you will no doubt exceed your ppm target or go with RO where you can add all you need? It's situational

i would go with the 60l flush

i must just note that the hole where you got the soil from... is kinda barren and devoid of plant life. i am not so sure that the soil is actually good. if you must use garden soil, you should source it from the best growing plants or shrubs in your garden, as that soil is proving itself... the soil you have may be contaminated with heavy metals that could be causing your troubles

sure... i did kinda compare apples to oranges salts or organic grows i feel tap water is fine to use for feeds. but the difference it made for my teas was chalk and cheese comparison... my tea went anaerobic within 48 hours if i used straight tap water, and did not go anaerobic after 2 weeks in the fridge using water that has stood for 24 hours. but using that analysis and conclusion, it would reason to note that straight tap water may not be as ideal as water that has stood for a bit if you have a developing or established micro life. the difference may be negligible in a feeding scenario ... but according to my experiments, there is a difference... it may kill some microbes.... suppress their breeding efforts... make them weaker for a few days. so if you know this information... whats the harm in 24 hours standing water

Update: Day 19 of veg Some pretty clear curling of the leaves today, and T2 (at the back) is growing quite a bit slower that the other two. I need to check the EC of my ferts, it would appear that its quite a bit too high at the moment. Fortunately I'm growing in coco so correcting this is pretty simple. I've flushed this morning and will test runoff until I'm happy before starting with the newly mixed (and EC tested) ferts. Apart from that the plants are looking healthy and strong. My night time temps are now around 17 so I'm watching to see if I need to do anything about that

How much of a difference does it make? Has anyone done a side by side? Pampering one plant with RO water and feeding the other plain old tap water? Same soil, same amendments, same nutes, same cutting etc? See what difference there is between the two plants during growth and we could even go a step further and do a blindfold smoke test and see if anyone will notice the difference. I do not think so. @CreX Your tea still develops, the bacteria multiply and the air will help rid of any excess chlorine a lot quicker than letting it stand undisturbed. I feel people get sucked into the nitty gritty which IMO does not make a big difference, little to no difference end of the day. Salt nutes kill bacteria. Tap water kills bacteria. Too dry medium kills bacteria. Do the bacteria die off completely? How much of a difference is noticed? I know that @CreX was a big fan of teas with his hydro grow, made a big difference yet I believe that was tap water and he was using salt nutes. Must we all get JoJo tanks to water our garden or only let the rain water it? Avoid using tap water for out garden? Do people who grow outdoors let their water sit before giving it to their plants or do they just reach for the hose, open the tap and be done with it? I feel there is too much separation between the two. Tap water and salt nutes seen as the devil, they have no place when one wants to use some microbes, fungi, teas etc. I do not feel this is the case. I feel it is blown out of proportion at times. I do not feel one needs to be soo pedantic about this. When we wipe down counter tops in a kitchen, we don't use tap water alone - we use cleaning detergents as well to kill the bacteria. EDIT: To be clear, I am not saying it does not have an effect on the microbes and whatever else may be in your medium but it certainly does not wipe them out.

Looks to be sulphur, Maybe a healthy dose of Epsom salts.

Salivating right now, evil person you.... Frying pan butter and garlic-dinner sorted.

Yes, it is safe to do so. Take a look at my auto flower grow, I did some serious leaf defol on some of my auto plants and I feel yield has been very good. I got around 100g dry from the LSD-25, have not weighed the others yet and still need to finish trimming them. EDIT: By now your auto has already formed the bud and it's either going to fatten and mature, or perhaps just mature. So I do not see any harm in removing some of the fan leaves, I do it all the time with my photoperiod plants from veg and all the way through the stretch / pre-flowering phase and even in flower and towards the end of flower.

Not sure I would trust that soil PH 3 in 1 meter thingy if you stick it into the coco. You could try adding a bit of calmag to your nute mix if you wanted, otherwise if you are really worried about the ph in the coco then run a few liters of nute feed which is PH'd through the coco - perhaps 6L and let it pour out and this should help "flush" any excess nutes in the coco. So best to do it in a bath tub, shower or outside. As for light penetration, remove some of the lower fan leaves and the dieing ones.

Aah I see what you did there @ORGANinc. Interesting , so your carrot will take longer to close and you have have the short carrots right ? Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk

@BroMo come and join the comp again!

Thanks man. All thanks to FF premium, biobizz, and light from @Light It Up Really have not been spending too much time with them at all. They only get attention when they need water. Once I flip to flower and the phenos really start expressing is when I'm up in their face all day every day with the loupe lol

Sunday IPM and defoliation day. All the fan leaves have been stripped except the top few in prep for flip. Real nice little Christmas tree structures. Clones taken. Before After

I love this photo man. From the white brick background to the white pebbles in the pots. Taking cannabis bonsai to a whole new level. Well done

So the girls had some oomph the last couple of days and got uppotted. Roots looking good. Watered in with some microbes and got prime spot in the veg area . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My first entry on this forum and present everyone with: 1. The Night Stalk-er 2. The Bermuda Triangle 3. Strawberry High-Way

102 days to go - still in it [emoji1696] Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk