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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2021 in Posts
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Hi Gents. Still chugging along in veg, I removed alot of growth tips in an an effort to try get the stems longer. This has worked to an extent as I have 8 main colas now, with 2 two in front being the ones that need to catchup to the rest. She gets fed twice a week, 0.7ec 6.4 Ph. Very green, the leaves are like leather, There are roots shooting out the bottom of the pot and I wasn't planning to repot, but think I should because my flower tent is only going to be available in a months time? I have a 40l fabric pot ready to go, she is in a 15 atm. Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk5 points
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Hmm, yes and no. I really feel it depends on what you are using, if one is using plain coco (with or without perlite) and using some good nutes such as GHE, simply PHing your feed correctly and following the feeding chart on the bottle gets you pretty much where you need to be without issues and consistency will be phenomenal. Very simple and easy. Although if you try do your own thing and are not 100% sure about what you are doing, it can be dangerous and you can quickly run into issues - but the issues can generally be fixed quickly too. When using soil, there are soo many variables. Whatever the compost is being made of will change the composition of the nutes in the soil and slight tweaks to the quality of the amendments and other ingredients being added to the soil mix will change it. Consistency is not always there, the bigger soil brands are typically a bit better with their consistency ("cannabis soil"). Then the differences between soil brands is huuuuge and will cause all sorts of issues if one purchases an inferior soil. However with a good soil, there is often more room for error as underfeeding can be supplemented by the nutes in the soil and they often add amendments to help buffer the soil (not perfect) and so forth. I think for me, the inconsistency and never quite knowing with soil is what leads me to go for coco, along with the quicker growth and coco being a cheaper medium (store bought soil vs store bought coco). If something is consistent, even if it is not perfect (not saying this is the case), you at least know and can work around it and plan for it. Inconsistencies introduce a whole new ball game into play and the it becomes are bigger challenge and are often a lot more difficult to pin point and remedy. So I guess to sum it up. There are pros and cons to both. Coco can offer better consistency than soil, can be super easy to grow in although when experimenting or not following what works you can run into issues quickly. I like to think of Coco as a blank canvas. Soil on the other hand, consistency can be pretty good too and offers a buffer of sorts but if shit hits the fan, it can often be more difficult to pin point the cause of the issue and remedy it. Perhaps more of a bicycle with training wheels, when the wheels fall off it can be a bit chaotic. Ultimately, you need to know what you are doing and what you are working with. Experience will ensure one can pick up on issues quickly as well as pin point them and remedy them.4 points
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Main issue I have if clones taken at harvest is keeping the plants alive long enough to reveg , they will naturally die before reveg happens . I am not saying it can't be done but it's a long process. That's why the lower underdeveloped buds are the ones left for reveg as they will be a few weeks behind I take my clones on day 14 of flower , no later and no earlier . Then by the time the room has finished flowering the clones have revegged and ready to go into the veg room and the veg room is ready to go into the flower room and the cycle continues3 points
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Mycoroot test. with mycorootno mycoroot one on the left is with mycoroot No difference between the two, in terms of health, size and vigour. I am starting a new test with plant matters v mycoroot v control to see if I can see any difference in seed germination.3 points
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I found it out by keeping written diaries and reveging over 2000+ plants . my preferred method of growing is monster cropping which involves letting the plants go info flower before taking clones and reveging the clones3 points
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Just a little bit of info. For every day a plant is in 12/12 flower mode you need 4 days for reveg , so 1 week flower would be a 4 week reveg (roughly) you can boost nitrogen to speed it up a little3 points
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Day 43 since I flipped to 12/12, beginning of week 7. According to the breeders, GZ has 8-9 week flowering time, and Lemon Cheese 9-11 weeks. The GZ will get water only now till harvest, and the LC is on its last week of feed (no major nutrients, just molasses and activera) I plan to flush the GZ with 3-5 litres every few days, starting this week3 points
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now we're talking!!! throw a qb on the table and you can call mr.surfactant man veg tent needs an upgrade!3 points
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I found this little one among the plants.. Shame.. I think he is going to starve as I have not seen anny insects.. But it is nice to know he is arround..3 points
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7 days into flower , they enjoying this grow space much more than the veg space . Very cold the last week in WC and they just received plain rainwater. Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk3 points
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Once again very strain dependent, flower time I found is generally shorter and stretch is minimal with nice dense fat nugs. For me the perfect size nugs are between 1-3g anything more and they just not as good . This is where monster cropping comes in , very little training needed so many hours of labour saved and many bud sites which in turn makes the buds smaller and not just a few fat colas.2 points
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I am not very good at getting my head explained in text and I appreciate and welcome the conversation and corrections where I think I am saying one thing but people read it as something else . I love stimulating conversations I can see how how the library comment could be taken badly , in my head I was just trying to put across the importance of keeping records2 points
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Sorry bud don't mean to come across defensive at all , I apologize if it came across like that . You are quite right as there are tons of variables , I ment it to be a guideline and an average.2 points
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You seem defensive, and hope not, I wasnt knocking, and find that invaluable and paper "gold". I agree with 24h My observations are different though with re veg, and have got far shorter times, but as you say yourself, there are so many variables, strains and so on. But to say the one size fits all, you first gave, is hard to finalize.2 points
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It all depends on genetic age of the strain . I have a original cheese cut that was brought into south africa in 1994 , this strain will not reveg under 18/6 as with many of my stains that are very old genetically. For best reveg results I always go 24 hours light , 18/6 will slow down reveg or as I say on old genetics it won't even reveg . I have strain that you can put outdoors in the middle of summer and they will flower even. As for my library I have decades of journals , I fill out a page every day on my observations of rhe day and my plans and goals . They one of my most important tools2 points
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@Green Leaf Organics @The Grass Baas @The_StonedTrooper Thanks for all the advice guys, I wouldn't have thought much about saturating the complete media had this bit of insight crossed not crossed my path. I'll report back on my next watering2 points
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Holy shit. Not to joke....yesterday I checked and he was on like 60k and when I checked as it was announced he was on like 5k. Crazy good fight for his publicity even though I still think it was an early stoppage, he was getting badly out performed.2 points
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You need to saturate the entire medium ,roots won't like spreading to dry soil and dry soil micro life will almost completely stop producing nutrients for your plant. It's also good to bare in mind that soil can become hydrophobic if let to dry out to much. This means that when you water you may get runoff but are you actually not saturating the medium and water is just running through your soil. What you need to do wet the medium across the entire pot not just around the root ball , only apply enough water to wet the entire top. Then wait 10 min and apply the same amount of water again , wait 5 minutes and you should get runoff . If at this stage you not getting runoff repeat and take not how much water your medium can optimly hold. If you find your plant then wilts its a sign of an underdeveloped root system and the plant is not utilizing the entire pot . The wilting is caused by the water cutting off oxygen supply . In Organics your entire medium needs to stay damp for soil health , dry medium is a dead medium I have gone weeks between watering in bigger pots and small plants. This is why the correct ratio of perlite is also required in your soil because perlite is a key to prevent overwatering. This is also why I hate vermiculite as its the number one cause of beginners killing plants with overwatering2 points
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I read it out of context, and my apologies for that, that's why I asked and didnt want to give the wrong impression.1 point
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Whooooow that is nuts, so if you wanted to reveg a clone from a full flowering plant at harvest, say you flowered for 8 weeks, that clone would take 32 weeks to reveg! That's 8 months! Holy balls man! As a part of your growing method, how long into flower would you start your cloning process? I must assume from the numbers above it would not be right at harvest1 point
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They're looking frosty and delicious. Franco's Lemon Cheese is a nice smoke, I took them down at 12 weeks when I grew it.1 point
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I'm feeding these young ones from the bottom now. It's just easier for me to put the water straight into the trays and let the plants suck it up slowly. The normal tap water rows were the two on the left. The centre row got tap water + kelp and aminomix. The 2 rows on the right were treated with de-chlorinated water.The centre row grew bigger with the additional ferts but the 2 sides are almost identical. The same root development and number of side branches. The chlorine fed plants are just as green as the others. They all stayed in the small pots for the trial, maybe a week longer than was needed but I wanted to keep everything equal. All the rows got a little bit of tip burn and I gave one spray of Epsom salts before I transplanted them.1 point
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These have had a nice growth spurt since they were put under 50 W of LED. Touch wood I haven't seen any more spider mites, but I will keep on spraying before flowering. I haven't done any sprays since I let the persimilis loose. Rosetta Stone master kush garlic sorbet Spumoni I've cloned the garlic and put her into a 25 litre pot now. She has got some vigour and is going to need a cane for support soon.1 point
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Excellent job man. This before and after of the scrog is great. It shows you how much it can help with some extra light on that canopy. Very nice. Great diary1 point
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Things are looking hectic, I'm not convinced it's all about Zuma, rather more opportunistic crowds of people who have been at home without work for far too long due to lockdowns and businesses flopping, as well as the truck drivers pushing against foreign workers. Although there are large swaths of people who genuinely believe Zuma was imprisoned without trial, which is total bs. His foundation is spreading the lie that is he was imprisoned without trial and they should be held accountable for the damage currently being caused. With the army getting involved, I hope it doesn't come to a situation like in Eswatini. The SANDF in these situations are to act in tandem with the SAPS but with the SAPS being stretched so thin (and in some videos, even looting for themselves) the army will have to act independently, and we saw how well that went during the initial lockdown last year. Marikana 2.0 anyone? Here's wishing safety to our members in the KZN and Joburg city areas. There is talk of a state of emergency being announced due to these riots and immediate curfew being implemented. Kinda getting an Arab Spring vibe actually1 point
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@DamDave A challenge means you are learning which can be fun and exciting! It means next time will be better. If it were me personally, I'd keep the plants in veg as right now you will barely get any yield from them and you've already spent quite a bit of time and effort to get them this so. So I'd keep them in veg, get them right and happy and let them bulk up and when they are ready then flip to flower - the bud you get from the plants will be worth the effort I am sure, a nice reward after all the effort you're putting in. This right here is the perfect example as to why auto's are not the best idea for someone who has just started growing. Being a photoperiod, one can take their time and get get the plant happy and right and continue - just delays harvest a bit but at least the harvest will be decent. You want to monitor for new growth, keep in mind the roots will need to get established again and colder temps will slow down growth. May take a week or 2 though, remember to PH your feed to prevent lockout.1 point
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Week 7 Update / Flower Week 1 All the ladies are doing well and they're busy pushing out their new green shoots so there is not too much to report on. I would like to share something that I've learnt the hard way though. For a week or 2 now these plants have had me scratching my head. They were starting to show signs of deficiencies that I couldn't explain. I changed my res, my PH wasn't the problem, temp wise I've sort of got it under control by having my lights on during the night so I couldn't understand what was happening and it was giving me sleepless nights . I eventually had a look at my ventilation set up and I realised that my intake was coming in from the top and my exhaust, or link to my other tent, is going out from the bottom. I swapped that around and in a matter of hours the plants started to get their colour back and slowly the deficiencies started diminishing, they're still getting there but a big swing for the better. I was shocked at what a big impact an incorrect air flow could have. Even though there was ventilation, just having it set up wrong caused havoc. Had to share, maybe someone could make use of my lesson learnt.. I also added a submersible heater to my res to keep those low temps at bay in the root zone. So these are the girls as they are now: Heater added:1 point
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@Chris Jay thank you for the share! Really well informed people sharing their knowledge1 point
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This was outdoor winter cultivated with nothing but some good soil and dry ammendment1 point
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