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Mid week cabinet shot. I'm happy. Sent from my DRA-LX5 using Tapatalk

4 weeks into flower. 6 to go. Just water for now. Turned the blumats off. Want to feed something over the weekend. Thrips are taking over and the BioSF nematodes will only arrive next week. I have some extra fly traps going untill then.

Week 3 1/2 of flower - Nothing to report, except some triches coming out to play.

No real reason for doing a post except for being stoned.. Im happy so far..

As you guys read all the crap i post ^^ I grabbed the cam and sat in the dark for you Picts standing 28 July 17.40, dark since 10.00. 20.3 degrees C and 52% humidity So far so good.. if nothing goes cold.. should be done in 5 weeks

Getting frosty

Is that a natural mainline I smell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Day 5 Week 12 Update Got nothing ^^ Climate hovers around 39-53% humidity and 19-23 degrees temperature Tarryn Sisa

#3 close up... things are happening

I reckon if she (hopefully ) grows into this huge tree with a bountiful harvest you'll have to send all us supporters a sample

Yes, the fun part started ^^ had to look for a picture reflecting the weather

I called it again

@ORGANinc. The secret sauce is to properly chelate the elements, before they come into contact with the roots and foliage. Alginic acid and mannitol are both chelating agents and are constituents of kelp. As you know, kelp is closely related to algae. It looks like a good product from Greenhouse, but why is it R2100 for a kg There's a few ways to improve the chelatiin, depending on your style of cultivation. Compost holds onto nutrients and the microbes cycle the nutrients. A minimum of 20 % organic matter in your medium is a great way to achieve this balance. A teaspoon of well made worm castings contains 50,000 different species of microbes. Less fertiliser is required if its assimilated into an available form and also buffered by carbon. Magnesium sulphate + fulvic acid = magnesium fulvate. A lot of sulphate compounds are approved for organic use, but they can be improved exponentially when mixed with humates. I use gypsum with my worm castings. The calcium is then synthesized into a chelated compound, called calcium humate. Calcium is responsible for delivering 7 other elements into the plant tissue. @PsyCLown I think that using these myco products is a better strategy than using toxic fungicides and pesticides. Treating the seed to prevent damping off is a wise move, in the field. Especially if the soil is marginal and needs improving. Your label says 150 g per hectare, but Indoors where the seed are planted individually, in a disease free environment then I don't think it makes much difference. The row on the left is the control, next 3 have had plant matters myco and the 3 on the right side had mycoroot. Trichoderma species are biotrophic mycoparasites, but they can turn necrotrophic. If your trichoderma turns necrotrophic, it will then kill off the harmful Fusarium, but it doesn't revert back into the biotrophic state. Once its in seek and destroy mode, your beneficials are also at risk. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycoparasitism However, in some combinations, the parasite may live during its early development as a biotroph, then kill its host and act more like destructive mycoparasites in late stages of parasitism.

So finally, after 3 weeks they are flowering. The runt #1 Still just rainwater with the organisoilux Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They look happy too

Just a little update... we have bloom!

Howzit, new to indoor.starting fresh and slowly building a setup

To be honest.....I wouldn't even flip yet. They're on a roll now.. let them grow. You have plenty more space to fill there. Top the one at the back and only worry about cleaning them when there are alot more leaves. Leave them for another week.....or two. Promise you won't regret it.

Welcome welcome. Slowly building up is the way. This was me one year ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck,hope you kick ass.

We deserve some close ups Sir.. Plze.. Just stop the suspence..

Pressed version. Best hash i made so far. Creamy texture, very aromatic and 2 dudes smoking for over 30 years went to bed after the test joint Purely made from indoor Gelato.

The reason our prices are good is because we keep our costs down and we believe in offering old-school value. No point ripping people off when you're trying to build a long-term business. Of course soil is not exactly the easiest thing to transport around the country. Ideally we would like to have agents around the country who can stock around R5 - R10k of product per delivery on consignment, and then make some extra cash marking it up for individual retail sales. But I don't want to hijack this thread further, so will place a classified advert for this.

Eish! Sorry capn!! Look at me slipping at the end!! Coe now Richard you're better than that Alright so full on flower pom poms now and so far so good. Must note they the cola leaves on most peeps flowering plants come out small and aren't really getting much bigger... Not sure if this is a fault of my own or what, but yea, just an observation.

Shell recover.. Just leave her..

Bloody hell... That's awesome... Nice fattening up there... Beautiful...

Update: Week 4.5 of flower Ok, quite a bit more happening in few days since the last photo @TotemicI cant see any light leaks... With my lights on full, and all other lights off I cant spot any signs of light coming out or under the tent. Ideally I'd climb in the tent and do it that way round too, but its a bit tricky with the raised floor. Perhaps I'll try make a plan this weekend. I've also check the timer and it seems to be working fine, no accidental on periods. And when I randomly check during the day its always off during the times I'd expect. I wont rule issues out completely, light can be sneaky. I'll keep looking, but nothing obvious at the moment

@Prom , we have earned it!

That's a comeback fit for a Rocky movie!

When seasons starts and I plan to keep them I definitely do that as well. This was just an observation of the plant in its natural habitat. David Attenborough style Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So just a peek at what is flowering right now, I posted a pic of her earlier in the thread. This plant is from a clone of a seed, Bubba Kush, that Totemic gifted me a while back. I was impressed with her the first time around so decided to clone and give her a chance in a dwc. Hortimix nutes and an oldschool 400hps,my last hps grow ever [emoji24] I moved her into the tent 4weeks ago after she started showing signs of flowering. I estimate she is in week 6 of flowering, what do you guys think? She consumes 2 litres a day, need to top up daily [emoji16] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Personally, I'm always going to want to feed the soil, and not the plant, whether outdoors in the ground or potted indoors. Let the plant establish its own symbiotic relationship with the soil. Synthetic fertilisers have tended to focus on solving one particular aspect, so growers end up with insane cocktails of stuff, over correcting here and under nourishing there. It's kind of why no-one has yet produced one medicine to solve all human health problems. It's too profitable to push multiple different drugs onto us. In the same vein, I don't know of any good all round synthetic fertiliser that can do everything that awesome soil can. But of course we are biased, being soil producers ourselves. The ultimate test is to examine the tissue structure of the plant, and the proof of the pudding is in the eating, or the smoking. When it comes to food, we can easily taste the difference between naturally grown food in awesome soil, and food grown with chemicals. Good soil is so complex that no-one has yet to completely understand all its aspects. We are learning everyday. "We know more about the movement of celestial bodies, than about our soil underfoot" - Leonardo da Vinci

Wow, your prices are very very good. I will buy a couple of bags and test them out during this outdoor season. Same here man at that price its very good. @Thriveare you available in the Cape Town?

Shortest grow log ever Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As a late comer to this poll, am I allowed to suggest our own soil, Thrive Living Soil from www.thrivecentre.co.za ? We tend to find that a lot of soil producers try to throw the kitchen sink into a soil, without really understanding what elements do what. The whole "bullshit baffles brains" approach. So, for instance rock dust can stall your plants if you haven't also included indigenous microbes collected during the winter months. That is because indigenous soil microbes move deeper down in the soil layers during winter, in order to decompose the tougher mineral matter, versus more usual organic matter in summer months. Some of the key components to get right are obviously your base NPK ratio. We aim for around 6:3:2 with a strong and sustained Nitrogen boost for initial growth, and then a slower and more sustained release of Phosphorous and Potassium for fruiting and flowering. Getting the timing right is important and that's where the inoculated biochar comes into play. It's also important that the composting process introduces living, microbial matter into the soil food web, and that it finds a home in the biochar, establishing a symbiotic relationship with the plant roots. A good living soil should give you at least 2 full strong growths without refeeding with compost and/or organic fertilisers. Although you really want to be feeding and fertilising your soil, and not the plant i.e. the plant needs to talk to the soil for what it needs, and not let the human try and force feed the plant. We are exceptionally lucky in that our soils have excellent natural mycelium and perfect pH for cannabis, developed over thousands of years in Hogsback. That is something that no soil producer can ever reproduce on their own. We also produce most of our own amendments, such as our oak and bamboo biochar (Japanese style) which also gives us superb wood vinegar. This is not that well known in South Africa but wood vinegar is probably your number one all-round Natural insecticide and fungicide. As far as I know we are the only ones producing it in SA, as not that many have sustainable oak and bamboo resources. It is Nature's own plant immune booster, root growth stimulant and flavour enhancer. You can read more about it at www.woodvinegar.org

Most harvested today and yesterday, and a full sanitize of the room and floor and tent and floors, and fans and every single thing in there Tomorrow the others come in treated IPM. The Nirvana Sunset Sherbet Cookies will come the weekend, and then the new SSC and Mad Berry stay.

Week 12 - Day81 (27/07/2021) HORTIMIX-DWC EC at 0.9 PH at 5.9 Topped up Res with 5L of water - PH'd to 6.0 EC 1.1 Current EC at 1.0-1.1 and PH at 6.0 Going to recalibrate PH sensor and EC meter today and re-measure the res EC and PH

Day 4 Week 12 Update Got nothing Tarryn Sisa

I'm sure this has been covered but I want to further emphasize this issue. There's a lot of misinformation surrounding our hobby and one of those is that mycorrhizae can't not live in a synthetic environment. But what is mycorrhizae actually? Well in simple terms the associations between roots and fungi are called mycorrhizae. These symbiotic arrangements have been found in about 90% of all land plants, and have been around for approximately 400 million years. Plant roots are hospitable sites for the fungi to anchor and produce their threads (hyphae). The roots provide essential nutrients for the growth of the fungi. In return, the large mass of fungal hyphae acts as a virtual root system for the plants, increasing the amount of water and nutrients that the plant may obtain from the surrounding soil. A plant that forms an association benefiting both the fungus and the plant is a "host." Large numbers of native desert plants are hosts to these fungi and would not survive without them. Two general terms are used to describe virtually all mycorrhizae: In ectomycorrhizae (external), the fungus produces a sheath around the root. This sheath then produces hyphae that grow into the root and out into the soil Endomycorrhizae (internal) do not produce a sheath; the hyphae grow within the cells and out into the soil. These are far more common than the ectomycorrhizae. But without going into much what mycorrhizae is and what it does (not the purpose of this thread) We want to know if mycorrhizae can Infact live within a synthetic environment. According to Robert Pavlis (gardener & scientist with 45 years of experience) most organic books or blogs will tell you that synthetic chemical fertilizers are killing the bacteria and fungi, the microbes, in soil. Dr. Ingham and her Soil Food Web preach this same message. Stop using fertilizers because they kill the bacteria and fungi. Some people claim that the ‘salts’ in fertilizer do the damage, but anyone making such a claim does not understand what happens to salts in soil Fertilizer provides nutrients like nitrate, ammonium, phosphate, calcium, potassium, sulfur etc. These are all nutrients that plants need to grow A lot of organic followers believe that the nutrients from organic sources are some how different from the ones provided by fertilizer. They are NOT! There is no lab in the world that can tell the difference between a nitrate molecule from manure and one from a bag of synthetic fertilizer. Plants can’t tell the difference either, because there is no difference. They don’t care where the nitrate came from. A lot of people doubt science and in some advanced areas of investigation science may not be 100% correct. This is not one of these situations. All chemists agree on the above fact and have done so for a long time. Organic material releases the nutrients slowly over many years. Synthetic chemicals release the nutrients as soon as the fertilizer dissolves in water. Is it possible that the quick release of nutrients kills microbes? Keep in mind that the soil under your fingernail after a day in the garden contains millions if not billions of bacteria. Is it reasonable to think that fertilizer would kill all of them? I don’t think so. Even if the fertilizer killed 99% there would still be billions and billions in every shovel full of soil. And bacteria grow very quickly – as fast as doubling in number every 20 minutes (at least in a lab). There have been many studies looking at the number of bacteria in soil after applying fertilizer One such study done by "impact of organic" looked at both bacteria and fungi populations, and compared untreated soil to (a) soil treated with organic material (manure, rock phosphate, neem cake) and (b) soil treated with synthetic fertilizer. Measurements were done at two different depths. Adding synthetic fertilizer resulted in no change in the number of bacteria and an increase in the number of fungi. Organic treatment increased both fungi and bacteria slightly. Synthetic fertilizer did not kill bacteria in soil and it increased the number of fungi. Agriculture Canada looked at the effect of ammonia and urea on the microbes in soil over a 10 year study, and concluded that “nitrogen applied according to soil test recommendations had minimal long-term detrimental consequences for soil microbes, soil biochemical properties, or soil structure.” The science is quite clear. Fertilizer, when used properly, does not kill microbes. BUT why do fertilizers not kill bacteria? The simple fact is that the nutrients in fertilizer, especially the nitrate, is a nutrient required by bacteria. They eat it! They actually absorb it since they have no mouth, but you get the idea. They also eat the other nutrients; phosphate, potassium, sulfate etc. Bacteria and fungi need these nutrients as much as plants do. Once you understand this, it becomes fairly obvious that adding these nutrients to soil will not kill the microbes, unless they are added in very large amounts that prove toxic. Think of composting. If you add too many browns the composting process goes slowly because there is not enough nitrogen available for the bacteria to eat. Since the bacteria are starving for nitrogen they don’t multiply and composting is slow. Add some nitrogen, either as a fertilizer, or as ‘greens’ which contain higher levels of nitrogen, and the compost pile suddenly heats up. The bacteria now have enough nitrogen to eat, they are active, and they multiply. All of this activity heats up the compost pile. BUT!!! It is true that fertilizers are salts. This is not sodium chloride or table salt. The term ‘salt’ has a different meaning for a chemist. To them, a salt is a compound made up of two or more ions. Table salt is made up of sodium ions and chlorine ions. Ammonium nitrate fertilizer is made up of ammonium ions and nitrate ions, so it is also called a salt. In dry form the ions come together to form salts. When the salts dissolve in water, the molecules break apart and form ions. When fertilizer salts are spread on the ground the white and gray balls are salt. When it rains, the water dissolves the salt into ions and washes them into the soil. Once they are in the soil they are no longer salts. Salt will harm bacteria and plant roots if there is direct contact. Due to the large number of microbes in soil, and the small surface area of the fertilizer crystals, this has no significant effect on the microbe populations in soil. Once the salt is dissolved, the ions quickly become diluted as the water moves through the soil layer. Diluted ions in water do not harm microbes or plant roots. In fact both of their lives depend on the ions being in the water. It is the ions that they absorb – not the salts. What happens with organic fertilizers like compost and manure? They contain large molecules like protein and carbohydrates. As these are decomposed, they are converted into ions. These ions are the exact same ions that fertilizer produces. Once commercial fertilizer dissolves in water it is no different than organic fertilizer. Fertilizer does not kill bacteria or fungi

Hahaha, my goodness. Sorry man. Quite unfortunate and unexpected. lol At least it wasn't a paid for seed.

Welcome fam

OK I ll have to be honest, I'm not sure I'd completely change over to curing this way, the buds do look great but I think traditional drying/curing if done the right way still ticks most boxes for a perfect bud. I seem to enjoy some type of flavour, I hate hay tasting buds..and ive had buds that tasted like hay before due to a bad dry.. If growers don't have means to control their drying environment and they getting low RH and high Temps throughout their drying process, it's safe to say it's probly going to taste like hay. Right? The solution would than be to try the "frost-less" freezer method. But the price on one of those, might not even be worth not having spent the money on getting the right equipment to achieve the right drying environment.... However I do think there's potential in this type of curing..

I agree, And it would depend on factors, firstly is it outside in the ground, or inside in a pot. Because one, outside you going to want to look after the earth and its life therein, as you will be feeding the plant and not the soil, so it will die away (view depending) Inside, in your tent and pot, you can do what you like, you not hurting shit. I have used mixed, with good results, and only in my opinion and my mates, prefer the soil to be fed and find a longer lasting high, maybe not as punchy, but longer, and debatable sweeter.

I'm not going to get technical it's above my pay grade lol However I just recently started my frist "salt" grow with EHG nutrients and coming from biobizz it feels like I'm cheating So much easier to get healthy fast growing plants my only concern is tasting the "salts" in the flower

Feed the disease Look at the algal blooms on many of the coastline where run-off is occurring, due to an unsustainable practice. If only all the microbes loved nitrates... Also how I understand them Greenhouse salts to work so bloody good. First you have vegging energy in the initial stages of plant growth, this is green growth. Green growth favors nitrates, chloride, calcium, and potassium... These elements when supplied to the plant in the right ratio stimulate the production of auxin, pushing to the seeds and the growing tips (this is masculine energy) While all this is happening the plant is sending exudates to the rhizosphere to ready the colonies that it would favour for the current stage and future stages (microbiome changes as the plant matures). We know microbes use nitrates as an energy source, that and carbon, in ratio of 26:1 (its a bit more complexed, but that's the bulk)... what is carbon? well that's much of the organic matter in the soil. So add more nitrogen, naturally add more carbon. In ratio. Other pitfall not mentioned. Now we need to understand how much of this nitrate is needed to grow plants. Science says really not nearly as much as we thought post the war effort. Now that there is a microbiome thriving on nitrates and supplementing its new carbon appetite with the necessary organic matter available, just know you'll be needing to PH your water now. The most important body in the soil that does everything, and I really do mean everything is in decline, and something else is taking its place. Okay now you done vegging, and your plant is going to flower, this is referred to as reproductive energy, supporting this stage requires a well ratio'd amount of the following Ammonia, Calcium, Mangenese and Phosphorus - These are the ones worth mentioning. Reproductive energy and Vegetative energy are highly antagonistic. The reason everybody cuts the nitrate in an inert system is because of the above - it does no good for flowers man. Would you consider an amended system with a high OM to hold onto nitrates better than an Inert system? Well I most certainly would. So Algae - Greenhouse seed company make their special sauce, cant remember the name but its a biostimulant product containing Humic, fulvic and Algae... And I always wondered, why algae??? Because if there is any excess nitrate lying around during flowering, they should surely tie them up safely and out of roots reach. Nitrates change the make-up of the microbes in the soil faster the exudates can.

@Marzcanna Great info, do you have a link to the source perhaps? However there will still be those who read this and believe synthetic nutes are the devil. Each to their own though As long as we're all growing good cannabis, who cares? No reason one cannot do a mix as well, does not need to be an organic grow in order to make use of fungi, microbes, bacteria etc. I personally use a mix of stuff with my grow, along with my GHE nutes and plants respond exceptionally well to it.

Day 22 of flower , all 3 doing good and think the one I topped is going to be my favourite for now......... but things do change when girls become woman . Rain water and saterday they got a Fire Juice and Probiotic. So far the no real difference with the FF Green bag , 50/50 mix with Green bag and ammended soul and the one just ammended old soil. They share a room with plants coming down in a week or 2 , problem is I want to veg the next batch and can't wait 5 weeks , will see what plan I can make. [emoji323] Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk

Been a while and winter is ma starig. Did manage to get some things going amd the strawberries are ready for season 2 Chocolate cherry peppers got worms just before harvest. But they are overwintering and still alive. Strawberries are taking over this bed. Pulled this out this afternoon Stir fry waiting to happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk