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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/17/2021 in all areas
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I have one fast finisher and then I have at least a 10 weeker. No signs of slowing down yet.8 points
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5 points
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1. So if I flipped on the 3 July, does that mean my plant will only be judged when I declare it as finished? Yes 2. Will plant be judged when dried or on day of harvest? On day of harvest is the primary factor, but the journey up to day of harvest is also considered in judging 3. Are we going to be sending bud in to be tested like the previous grow off? This is not planned yet but @Aeradix is always keen to support so let's see what he says5 points
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5 points
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Thought this picture had a cool story. Picked up Mr Acton on the way to the Cannabis expo last weekend, he had already rolled a tarrie joint, check that bend. We went straight to aaptwaks table to learn some skills. So we have Mr 8 joints a day on national news, mixing with 3.2 seconds joint roller. How is this for a mad match. Before Learning to roll After4 points
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1l bottle of ph down costs me 100 bucks...and lasts me over a year. lemon juice has poor ph buffering abilities and does not hold the ph where you want it for long, like ph down does. i would try convince you to blow the 100 bucks bru...splurge a bit for the sake of your plants lol. i am a big supporter of milk sprays for pm treatment and prevention, but more so for outdoor plants and less so for indoor plants. and it must be full cream milk for best results, low fat milk and box milk also work, but fresh fullcream milk had the best results. 50\50 mix with water for a very useful PM spray - but it stinks my flat up if i spray it inside4 points
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4 points
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I would suggest you get a Fresom Farms Premium Classic and repot that ladies , will safe you tons of time and headache Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk3 points
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Nice man. Excited to see how it pans out for you. @The Grass Baas grew out a Critical outdoor once and it was one of the smoothest outdoor smokes I have ever had. I am currently germinating the White Afghan Skunk by OSG and its supposed to be a very close representation of the Super Skunk strain. If you were able to get to Pretoria I would shoot you a cutting anytime. This is how they describe the strain: " The cut of Super Skunk used is a high yielding cultivar from the 90's. This is original SS, and not the watered down stuff you see these days. Old school skunk funk with notes of ripe mango. Unfortunately this cut of Super Skunk does not take well to pollen, and doesn't throw a lot of seeds. So an Old Widow male was used to revitalize the line. Old Widow was chosen to keep the traits of this stellar Super Skunk intact. Don't be fooled by hype. A proper cut of Super Skunk is pure gold. Some of the best smoke I've ever had."3 points
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An old thread, I know... Just want to go back to it and provide a bit of extra info. I see this thread pops up high up on the list if you Google for "Tenazole cannabis" Tenazole should not be used on cannabis. Possible side effects if consumed aside, cannabis does not tolerate it well. Stunts the plants, turns the leaves dark green to almost black and leads to stems being discoloured. Alterntiave solutions for PM which I feel work well are as follows: AQ-SF (can be mixed with bio-tricho) Sulphur / Bio-sulphur Coppersoap (not to be used in flower) These solution may require one to do multiple sprays though but is a far better option. There are many other safer things to use to treat PM which are effective as well, instead of using Tenazole. Tenazole also leads to resistant strains of fungus which can become a big issue as time goes on.3 points
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Totally agree. I think some of my plants have more balls than I do. Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk3 points
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Good evening to all like minded (mostly[emoji3526]) people. Same same the last week with one feeding and just rainwater when needed . Good luck to all with the final packing nice tight buds stretch of the wonderfull creation Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk3 points
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Welcome welcome. Slowly building up is the way. This was me one year ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk3 points
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Watsup everyone. Finally I have managed to finish my 480w LED light which I have been busy with for the last 6 months, or rather delayed for the last 6 months. Work has been abit hectic and haven't been home to work on any projects. I managed to make some time and if it wasn't for a good friend that put the flames under my ass, I probably never would have finished it. @John Stonedwell I had a thread open about the wiring of a 480w light but as I kept the wiring the same as in the diagrams I used from LEDgardener, I thought I would just start a new thread rather. At no time would I say that this build is cheaper than buying from Alibaba but it was an adventure I wanted to take and I have learnt alot about it. Plus I have a brand new 480 watt LED Grow light. The build is an example on the LEDgardener website which I was introduced to by @Cannabist Here goes. These are the following items I used: 12x bridgelux 3500k led strips (bought off of digi-key) 480w meanwell driver 480H-42A (bought off of digi-key) 6m of aluminium bar (6mm thick and 76mm wide)(bought at aluminium trading) 6m of aluminium angle (side are 12mm wide and 1.6mm thick) 6m of 3core flexi black cable (soft like extension cord cable) 10m of 2core twinflex (harder mouldable cable) Plastic coated steel ferrels Couple of meters of heatshrink Chocolate blocks (through and through connectors) 8x wago connectors (can be found at hardware shops) Waterproof 3 core connector 3 point plug 12mm plastic squares for corners Wondafix glue Plenty of little screws So to begin I had to get alot of the dirty work out of the way. I decided to group my strips into 4x groups of 3x strips. So basically it would be 4 bars with 3 strips on each. I measured the width and length and figured the aluminium bars I had were wide enough to take 3 strips each. Making wiring abit easier and I used less wires than expected. Note that all bars were cut to 1.2m to fit the led strips and to fit into a 1.2m tent. I think I cut them even shorter just to make sure they fit in the tent as the tent isn't exactly 1.2m . Anyway. Not going to be doing the exact measurements as I can't really remember. So all the bars were cut to size and I decided to drill holes throught the bars to mount the strips. I aimed for 5 screws per strip. Way too many I would say but anyway. I also threaded all the holes so I didn't have to use little nuts to tighten the screws, even though that is not a bad idea because the threading took kak long. I had to thread the bars twice as a friend and I made several mistakes (under the influence of beer and weed). I also used a heatpaste to transfer the heat from the strips through the bars, and what a serious waste of time. The strips, even though 3 on one bar, doesn't get anywhere near hot enough to be concerned. I honestly think its like 21 degrees or something. Don't waste your time and money on that crap. Also it doesn't dry out like normal silicone and rather stays "wet" forever. It can become a very messy storey. I used 2 screws on each side of the bars when mounting to the angled pieces just to make sure I won't have any sort of swaying on pivot points. This was just to stabilize the build. I also did not shorten the angled aluminium simply so that it could keep its position nice and centered in the tent and not lean to one side. I made sure to use plastic squares to plug the corners so they don't tear into the tent. As you can see their sizes weren't perfect but I squeezed them on and they stayed there. No glue and shit. Once I had all 12 of the led strips mounted onto the bars and all the bars mounted onto the angled aluminium, it was time to start the wiring. So, as some of you may know that followed the wiring thread, there was alot of questions about the driver and why it had the two outputs etc. I am not going to discuss why they have two outputs on but I can assure it is for a good reason and probably for safety (some electricians said I could use just one of the outputs as it wouldn't matter, which I understand buuuuuuut it was designed like that for a reason, so I used both. Less of a fire hazard). Firstly I connected the main power cable which was 3 core, and extended the input cable of the driver with the 3 core flexi cable I got, and also connected a 3 point plug onto the end so I can plug it into a wall socket. Lol. I used the waterproof connector to connect the cables and created a nice long extension of the drivers' input cable. This helps alot as I don't have to struggle with extension cables. I then used some of the 3 core flexi cable to extend my outputs from the driver. I connected them with the coated ferrels and then used the heatshrink to cover it nicely. Heatshrink is the shit. I love it. Note that the two output cables from the driver have 2x cables in each. So that's two red(+) and two black(-) wires and no earth. The earth cable was then just cut short. At the end of the two outlet cables I just left them open and soldered over the copper to make it a little neater and more solid as those 4x points would go straight into the chocolate block which is mounted on the frame. I did it this way so that if I needed to move and pack up the light, I could just disconnect it from the chocolate block and I would have just 2 pieces to carry around (1x driver and cables, 1x light). As you can see I just used electric fence wire to make the frames hanging cable which I just connected between the bars on the angled aluminium to make sure the whole light does not bend from being too heavy etc. If you connect it to the outer edges you start getting a bend and warp, which then doesn't help with the direction of the lights. I used wondafix to stick all the wago connectors to the back of the bars. When I had to wire the red (+) ends of the bars (3x strips), I just ran 2 red wires from the choclate block to the wago connectors and then spread the power between all the positive ends of the led strips. I also just ran the two black (-) wires across the back of the bars (strips) to the opposite end where all the black (-) connections were and fed them via the wagos. Also I just glued the wires to the back of the bars so they would not move around too much. I also just used cable ties to keep everything neat on the frame. I used twinflex cables for my red and black wires. This wire is semi flexible and keeps the shape you bend it into which is great if you want a permanent built frame with lights etc and no wires dangling everywhere. In order to get it out of the hard white plastic which houses both of them, I would pull the earth and it would strip the red and black from one another. Making it alot easier to work with. I can't tell people not to build their own lights because there are way cheaper options available online which are already built but damn it was an exciting and interesting journey. This is something I have always wanted to do and now I feel like I have the confidence and abit extra knowledge on how to tackle something like this. I really hope this helps someone else deciding if they want to go on a similar journey or not. Hopefully someone could learn from the ideas mentioned and probably better them or personalize them their own way. One positive I found is this thing saves a shitload of space vertically in my tent. Thanks for watching. Note: this is not my design but one of the many on LEDgardener.com2 points
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High 420Buds, So I've never done a grow diary before or even a personal one for that matter So bear with me... I joined the discussion in the clone topic and the seed was planted by a fellow member to make a diary using clones I purchased from GSR. So, I received them on Saturday 14th August, and I must compliment the bank on their excellent customer service. Their communication throughout the purchasing process and advice was great catering to a proper newbie + amateur home grower. Enough talk, here they are as packaged 14 Aug 21. Clones (genetics): 3 X Terple (In House) 1 X Tally Man (Oni Seed)2 points
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I do flower in 15L pots also , then I do solo cup for 2-3weeks from germ , then 1L yoghurt tubs for another 2-3 weeks and repot in 15L leave for max 2 weeks then into flower. Come summer time I flower in 25 L , 15L dries to quickly Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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Jurra! Thats lekker haha! Nou is Karel straatkat, Karel Ramkat!2 points
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Hey dude. 50cm is not that far. Was just thinking of reducing possiblity of burn. Those plants are looking sad dude. Honestly reminds me of an early grow I did with a cheap soil that turned out hot. I agree with @GGG about getting FF premium classic. I would however still flush them and and let them recover. Then once they have recovered and grown some roots you can transplant to FF soil. They are still very small plants. They don't need too much in the early stages.2 points
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You doing this strain good man , looks fantastic well done Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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.....and we started week 7 of flowering today [emoji323] Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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Fuck me. That's some good expression of the strain no doubt. Proper fire going there my good man.2 points
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Veg I would always go copper soap, great results and very easy to use. I give them a spray with copper soap to clean up before I move em in the flower tent. At least I know they arrived clean2 points
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No worries man. I must add that they had great service after I paid with zero communication barriers. They are one of the few verified and top rated guys on Alibaba. Pretty sure it is a mine field out there with the rest. I am definitely not recommending Alibaba as a whole but just this one Gem.2 points
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This is an anecdotal article. As much as I am for cannabis do not solely rely on cannabis as a treatment. Early treatment of COVID 19 is important. Preventing hospitalisation is of utmost importance. Look at www.covid19criticalcare.com for info.2 points
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You oaks are funny. So here's the pics Import fees ^ Ordered 4 Aug and price ^ Item ^ Delivery date ^ Sorry, don't have better pictures of the setup. This is what he sent me. Wiring was extremely easy.2 points
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2 points
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Hey dude. Totally understand to support local guys. I however haven't had any issues with importing from the company I mentioned. Just to give you an idea: I ordered a 480w quantum board for a friend on the 4th of August. Yesterday (16 August) it arrived at his door. I cleared customs before it even landed in SA which helped alot to smoothen out the delivery. I rather mentioned this option as I have seen way too many cases, and even experienced it myself that some companies (not the ones you mentioned) will say they have local stock only for you to wait a month or two while they get as many orders as possible to reduce their delivery costs and increase their profit. I also don't see how asking someone else to build you a DIY project is any fun. Sure, if you do not have the know how or time, then it would make sense for someone to build you a custom light. But if you want to do a project or learn a new skill, it doesn't help paying someone else to do it. Note: The quantum board I ordered for a friend cost us just under R7000 (this is inclusive of shipping and import fees) I have seen the exact same board for almost R12000 in SA. You can find it with a quick google. I once bought a light from a local guy, waiting a whole month for it only to find out (on this forum) that I could've ordered it myself for half the price and half the wait. I hope no one else would have to go through the same shit I had to, and rather do it themselves. Importing is very easy once you know how to. None the less. If you don't like importing or DIY then there are plenty of people that can supply you with the light you want, at a small premium.2 points
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2 points
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Holy hell I didnt visit the forum for a bit... look what the cat dragged in! Aweh ma se kind. Glad you pulled in at last. Now I know where some of your new found info has been coming from! Been hard at work scouring the forum I see. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk2 points
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2 points
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Monday 16th August: week 7 of flower. No complaints this side. Lots of trichomes around and getting very sticky.2 points
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Also fixing this greenhouse up for summer / spring Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk2 points
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2 points
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Try copper soap, it's worked with my last grow & its non-systemic. I've found that baking soda only helps for a short time & the PM eventually comes back if the humidity doesn't drop. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk2 points
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1 point
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Goeienaand almal. Has anyone grown DP regulars from GSR yet? I have some regular DP, Malawi Gold and Swazi Gold seeds that i ordered from them last year. Planning a proper DP tree grow in a 100 L fabric pot with my own soil( Subcool's super soil recipe inspired) currently cooking until end Sept. Any input would be laka1 point
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Howzit brother. Just curious if the strain was legit. Well aware that these plants have the potential to grow into monster trees. So just to make sure if i should give the DP the honour of growing in my new 100L fabric pot. I'm used to 20 L fabric pots where i got 6ft heights out of. This thing is biiig haha! would like to check out your grow journal on this one ekse1 point
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Will keep you posted man. I will pop you a pm and then I can maybe arrange to send you a seed as I have 5 fems and only intend on growing one. Let's just hope my germination rate holds solid1 point
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Shot bru. Just had a spell of powdery mildew. In a panic used milk. Never again. Now im battling to get it off.1 point
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Greenhouse seeds cheese #2 Thus far she hasn't needed any feeding and is quite bushy i like her the most thus far Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Www.Qure.co.za in Montagu are legit. They were even featured on RSG the other day. Lekker lika fia krekka1 point
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Zurple Punch Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Nice man. Welcome. This forum has helped me alot with making up my mind with my setup. You'll learn alot. Any questions anytime.1 point
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