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Alrighty time for a smoke report right after hitting the T#9 Bud pics are at the end. Nothing fancy or different between the nugs but I thought it'd be nice just to post. I will first talk about the Tortoni strain as a whole and then talk about the phenos I managed to get. The strain slaps, first and foremost. It is a great smooth smoke after a two week cure at least. The high is well on the eyes but doesn't debilitate you the rest of the day if smoked moderately. I can still get things done with a spring in my step after a toke of the Tortoni. If smoked later at night in greater quantities, it's night night. The capsules I made from the trim are amazing painkillers and sleep promoters, especially if a lot of physical work or exercise has been done during the day. Probably the most medical tincture I've made thus far. The buds themselves appear more on the darker green side and the trichomes give an almost starry appearance to the buds when the light hits just right. I am happy to make this the new addition to the stable. Now to rank the phenos in personal preference. The top position is split between T#9 and T#10. They have pretty much all the promises made in the description of the strain, "this cross expresses as an indica with dense trichome frosted flowers, with vivid orange pistils, carrying a sweet, fruity aroma, on a subtle spiciness, offering an austere, hashy, premium taste." 100% @Totemic, that's what I am getting right here. The sweet fruity aroma I would describe as the hints of gelato I experience. T#5 gets third. It doesn't feel as heavy on the eyes in terms of high but it's aromas and sweet scents are more prominent than the above. I've decided to keep it on the intention to try express the terpenes a bit more acutely in a future grow. Then lastly T#8, it gets the chop. To me it was beat in one aspect or another by the 3 phenos above and I'd rather keep fewer than more mothers at this time just due to space management. All in all a great result in my opinion. I was expecting to keep just one but ended up with three bussing strain. T#5 T#8 T#9 T#1012 points
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9 points
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9 points
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7 points
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6 seconds? Yoh, maybe if they give me 6 minutes. I doubt I could even pack a pre-rolled cone in 6 seconds. lol I can pack my vape in 6 seconds though.5 points
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8 weeks flower will be next week Saturday so I will harvest at that point. Buds don't look terrible so there's that Until then, observe my eish;4 points
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They have to have been pollinated by something somewhere... Otherwise we have a virgin Mary situation here lol4 points
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Some real nice colors starting to happen here. Her bud is feeling nice n thick, the other Tortoni is a bit soft n fluffy feeling. Saturday she will be week 7*4 points
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Was pleased to be part of the Joint rolling competition last weekend at the GRCC. Having a lekker debate on FB, and personally believe this competition is great for activism. Here is some video from the event. Personally never seen or entered a joint rolling comp, but it was alot of fun. Big difference rolling on a stage, sealing your joint under the clock than chilling at home rolling a spliff. There were a couple 6 second rolls, I think my best roll was 7.6 and the rest were about 12 seconds. The rules of rolling are, you can make your girrick, prepare your plant matter. Hands on the rolling tray, plant matter on the tray to. The joints need to be smokeable, sealed and dropped on the table. A tip I heard to get a better time is lick your paper first, I never went for it.3 points
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I decided to go ahead with the repot. I started with the first 1 and to my surprise I saw what I'd describe as healthy ass roots. I left the pots quite dry on top to get rid of some of the other soil and popped them straight in to the FF. From the varying comments I imagine some will say I should have done it differently, others will say I did the right thing. The longer I'm a part of this awesome community the more I realize that although there is a definite science behind it, with loads of particulars, there are plenty ways to skin this cat. I'm here to learn and if my plants die I've got the seeds to start again, I'm learning and enjoying it. Thanks to all who have shared their wisdom thus far. I truly appreciate it.3 points
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You probably know this...Pour tap water in a bucket and let it sit for 24hours for the chlorine to evaporate...voila...nice, clean(er) water for your plants.3 points
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Pot up brother Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk3 points
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So I have photos of when I first noticed the root aphid issue, not the best but thought to post them for anyone who stumbled upon this thread later on. May help them identify the issue, although pretty easy to tell if something is on your roots. You get some which are light in colour and some which are dark in colour, based on my research the ones darker in colour are a big issue and far more difficult to kill and seem to be resistant to more pesticides. They may also change colour as they grow, not 100% sure on this. I saw reports where Orthene was not working as well against these darker root aphids experienced in some tobacco fields. To date I have spent over R2000 on pesticides trying to get rid of these root aphids. The following is what I have tried: Bio-Insek Powder (beauvaria Bassiana & Metarhizium) - also contains diatomaceous earth along with the spores. Applied as a soil drench only. Eco-Insect Control (Spinosad) - applied as both a soil drench and foliar. Even tried doses upto 1.6ml per L Bio-Neem (Azadirachtin) - Applied as a soil drench at the recommended dose of 5ml per L and applied as a foliar as well (same dose) I then thought I might be winning the battle and continued to drench with the above mentioned products as a pre-caution. I even filled the bottom of my rooting tray with the mixture I used as a soil drench to help my new set of cuttings make it without these darn root aphids... End of last week however I took a peak into my clone dome only to notice roots, but one cutting which had rooted had root aphids, the other cuttings looked fine. I tossed the cutting which contained the root aphids in the bin along with all cuttings of that strain, sprayed some doom into the bin and took the bag outside... Very disappointed and frustrated, felt as if all the money I had spent, all the time and effort on applying these drenches was all for nothing. I even went as far as to soak the glue plugs in the soil drench solution with the above 3 mentioned products before putting the cuttings into the clone dome and I cleaned out the clone dome (top and bottom) with a heavy JIK (bleach) solution to ensure it was as clean as could be. Of course the dome went into the veg tent, which at the time I thought and hoped was root aphid free - they just took a short vacation, chilling in the coco it would seem. My plants in my veg tent did not look happy, the most purple stems I have ever seen and such light, pale, yellow leaves. It's shocking and very disappointing. Growth is extremely slow as well. After further research and more reading, it become clear to me that based on my experiences and the experiences of many other growers out there - using these organic pesticides is more of a money pit and quite frankly a waste of time. The fact that even some systemic pesticides such as Orthene are not effective against these root aphids was also a clear indication that I have a big issue on my hands. I read a comment someone had made somewhere stating that they took multiple pesticides (I think 10 in total, of which 2 were systemic) and mixed them at higher doses and put them into a small cup each. This person then proceeded to break off pieces of roots which were covered in root aphids from his cuttings and leave it in the cup with the pesticides and he wait a week only to find that majority were not very effective and the root aphids were swimming around having a pool party in the pesticides. The Imidacloprid was the one pesticide which stood out and was different and had killed all of the root aphids. How true this is, I cannot say - it is just some comment I found on the internet although it is a comment I can relate to. As mentioned previously in this thread, I kept the rooted cuttings in my clone dome initially and then used that as a way to test the pesticides. I dunked the cuttings into solutions of the pesticides and then monitored to see whether they were actually working on not. From what I saw, it took a few days but there was a reduction in root aphids most appeared to be dead but it did not happen over night despite the direct contact (full submersion) into the pesticide solution which contained the above 3 mentioned pesticides. I suspect the Bio-Insek did work as well as I saw some fungus on some areas of the glue plugs after a week or so, at this point I thought I was winning the war against the root aphids. I potted up the cuttings after getting rid of the root aphid carcasses, I dunked each cutting into the pesticide solution again (it was a fresh solution each time, I never let the solution sit for a period of time) - glue plug and plant and then put them into some fresh coco in fresh fabric pots which were either brand new and just unpacked from the box or which had been through a washing machine cycle. So fast forward back to me noticing root aphids on the new, 2nd batch of cuttings after I had thought I was winning the war... I then inspected some of the plants which were in smaller plastic pots which needed to be potted up. Upon very very close inspection of the roots coming out from the bottom of the pots with a torch, I noticed those mother fucking root aphids again. So it was clear to me that my attempt at getting rid of these root aphids had failed and the money I had spent was a waste and at best took out a small percentage of the root aphid population. I potted up the plants, the weird thing being that once the plant was removed from the pot, I could not see the root aphids anymore. Closely inspecting the roots of these plants, I could not find the root aphids (the coco was a bit wet, so it fell apart when removing form the small plastic pots and was put into the larger 20L fabric pots). So even when inspecting roots when transplanting, they are not easy to see. They can easily be missed, especially if one is not looking for them - this just makes it that much more difficult to notice you have these pests. Over the weekend and after more research and debate with myself, I decided fuck it and pulled the trigger and purchase some ProTek Complete 350 SC (Imidacloprid). A mere R170 for a 50ml bottle. Read the pamphlet, mixed it at 1ml per L and as I was about to dose the plants (I was actually wearing gloves while doing this, but upon further research it seems that is actually not needed. Not absorbed very well via topical application and the doses to cause any harm seem to be extreme doses. Like the entire bottle in concentrate form per KG of body mass. It is used as a spot on for animals, we all know animals lick and groom themselves - heck some of us may have even used it on our own animals without knowing) I saw a root aphid chilling on top of the one fabric pot, I picked it up and put it into a droplet on my gloves of the solution and as soon as it touched the solution it stopped moving. I think it died immediately, maybe not. I stared at it for quite a while waiting to see if it would move again and it did not. I then put the fucker into the solution just incase. I wanted it to die a slow, painful death and wanted to make sure it was dead. I continued to dose the plants in my tent with the solution of Imidacloprid. Now I know, some of you reading this will be shocked, horrified and disgusted that I have dared to use a systemic pesticide on my cannabis plants - fuck, not just any systemic pesticide but a neonicotinoid, Imidacloprid! Oh my goodness, the possibilities and potential health risks. Well shit, the decision did not come easily... but more on that later*. I got to one plant in my tent, which just so happened to have a piece of grass growing inside of the pot as well (random I know, not sure where it came from but whatever), I ran out of solution. I had started applying a bit over the portion with the grass. I needed to meet up with a friend so quickly stepped out, upon my return I noticed 3 root aphids chilling on the piece of grass, dead! I blew and they just fall down, lifeless. Man oh man, did this make me excited! I mixed more solution and then noticed the plant was a male (regular seeds), so it got the cut. I did drench the coco and leave it in the tent to ensure any and all root aphids inside that pot die as well. The plant which got the cut went into a bag and into the bin outside straight away. So it has now been a few days since I dosed the plants, there has been no sign whatsoever of root aphids and the plants are starting to perk up and are already starting to get some colour back in their leaves! This shit is legit, it really seems to work! It is still early days, I know but from the reports I have read, people have gotten rid of their root aphids with a single application of this Imidacloprid. It is systemic and travels up the plant and continues to travel up the plant as they grow. So any root aphids which may survive or eggs which did not die on contact for whatever reason, should die shortly after sinking their mouthes / teeth / whatever into the flesh of my plants. I will continue to monitor these plants, but at this point in time I feel as if I may have actually, eventually, managed to get rid of these root aphids and am pretty confident I have. *Back to the possible risks of Imidacloprid with cannabis. I will be honest, my thinking was that if it is used on tobacco which is also smoked and if it is not very toxic when ingested, it does make me feel a bit more at ease using this particular systemic pesticide on cannabis. I understand that cannabis and tobacco are different, so it could be a danger in cannabis and not so much in tobacco. We all know that smoking is not good for us, period. Chances are we may have already consumed cannabis which has been dosed with Imidacloprid prior to us growing our own. Difference is, at least I know what is in mine and I can take precautious and it is my choice as to whether I decide to consume the cannabis or not (still undecided) and I can even send the bud to a lab to be tested. My grow is indoors only, so bees are safe. I will need to make sure I dispose of the coco responsibly as well to avoid contamination in nature as I understand this pesticide is a big issue for bees and fish as it can get into water supplies easily. I would not dose outdoor plants with this. Not that I typically allow my pets into my grow area, however if they did get in and chomped on my plants I feel safe that it would not cause much if any harm to them. I do not plan on continuing to use this pesticide either, it is a temporary effort to get rid of the pests. Only the plants in my veg tent were dosed, the ones in flower still have root aphids and will not be dosed with Imidacloprid. So that is a bit of an update and where I stand at the moment. I feel that if I were to let these plants veg, take cuttings and then flower those cuttings it would be safe to consume the bud from those plants as it would be over 3 months before those cuttings went into flower and I do not believe the systemic pesticide would be in very high quantities, if at all, in the plant still and do not think it would transfer to the bud. I do want to look at sending bud in to be tested to see what the results are for interest sake - bud from the plants which were dosed. I feel I could have probably gotten away with a lower dose of 0.5ml per L based on the pamphlet and the results I have seen so far. Even if the dose is not high enough to kill the root aphids, at lower doses it can disorientate them and cause them to wander and stop eating. I will provide further feedback after a bit of time. I documenting this for anyone who may run into this pest in the future and hope that it can help them out.3 points
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Although I am rough with them roots, it only gets done to plants at least 5/6 nodes high. These still look way too small and fragile to be causing that amount of stress. Have lost plants trying it this small. Just let them dry out properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk3 points
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I am glad you followed up with your comment and you are perfectly right, but its also up for debate. Take a deep breath I am not fighting, just pointing out something we seemed to overlook here as internet cannabis growing geeks. You wrong in saying anyone with internet can buy these strains, this is post is a good example. We have a range of geeks on here, with internet, with cannabis knowledge and not aware skunk is here. Evironment, location will change anything, agreed. But you must realise that cannabis has been a big business since the 70s in Europe and later in the USA. Seedbanks like Seedsman have stored seeds seeds since last century, companies like Phylos Bioscience have ripped "DNA" from genetics from the 1800's. Phylos for instance only need a sample of the plant to "sequence the profile", sorry my terminology might be wrong but Iam not a scientist or researcher, but they only needed a plant sample to get the "genetic profile" of a plant. I dont know how it works, I just know its state of the art. I think things will only get better in the future and we will have access to the old strains of yesteryear. People have always said Durban Poison does not exist, two of the most knowleageble cannabis people said to me its BS. I smiled when they said that, but it was crushing. Its like saying Kush does not exist, eventhough its been hybridized etc to hell and back. I think alot goes into making a good smoke, environment, genetics, nutrients, to get the same profile I am sure is difficult but its possible. Not inflating my ego, I have been on the trail of Durban, african landraces for a decade or three. My reasoning was more to do with the culture/packaging and was also the reason I really looked into cannabis as a hobby then. A mate who started growing in the UK around '95 came back and told me about all these unique strains, white widow, Northern lights, skunk, that for me was one of the catalysts for strain hunting but funny enough I was more interested in the packaging naming conventions, DP slugs, pencils and sticks, cobs. You would be an ahole to think they all contained durban or malawi but the sample sticks I have been grown by the same family, from the same region for decades, they all look the same, smoke the same and have been sent overseas for testing and breeding. Whats the problem. You have a guy, who has a background from the 80's, met Mel Frank in the 90's, bred and stored his seeds. Have a little faith and trust. South Africa's market is way behind the curve of cannabis, we are probably at the stage where Europe was in the 1990's.3 points
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The Lemon OG Haze from Nirvana.. growing fine so far. One already wanted to flop over, got a support and tied to it. Feeding them water at the moment, got once a feed with 1ml/L fish mix and 2ml/10L Amino Boost. All around 500-550 micromole PAR light intensity If you ask what the leaves show on the bigger plant.. that is hunger ^^3 points
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6 seconds is rad ^^ I wouldn't even get close to that.. but I only role inside out, would really struggle the other way. I just like to have minimum paper on the joints.3 points
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Did a due diligence check this morning on the plant and discovered a bit of a thrips outbreak I noticed a few at the end of the last harvest but it looks like now since I've only got The One in the flower tent the buggers must have all jumped to her. Checked a couple threads here on the forum and ordered myself some Efekto Insect Control and a Wetting Agent, not intending to use it on The One as it seems a bit too far into flower to do any foliar spray and she is busy ripening at the moment, the leaves are starting to fade and pistols starting to turn amber. I do have some other plants that need to go into the flower tent some time soonish that I will want to protect with the Efekto. Major whoopsies during this comp I'll post some pictures of my sad state of affairs tonight.3 points
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what's gooooood yeeeah that's a lock out from root damage liking the lean towards the FF already, would be in your best interest to get a bag asap. I am with @The Grass Baas on flushing them in the medium they're in to get the roots a bit stronger before repot. Here is why I would say, repot always comes with some shock and in this case it will be even more because when you repot them you're going to want to remove a lot of the current soil (bark in your rhizosphere will encourage pest and diseases, and I am affraid the bark isn't the only problem here, from what the plant is telling me it does not look like the right composition for cannabis really) and in doing so you will have to put your surgical hands on for a moment and make sure you do not damage a single root when removing the soil. To ensure a successful surgery you'll need to work with healthier stronger roots. TWO LITTLE NB POINTS OF NOTE - THE FLUSH NB: the area I am in I get water out the tap sitting steady at 8.5 to 9 ph, I cannot flush with that even though I am in a organic situation and people say "organic soil will buffer the ph for you" that doesn't mean I can pour 20L of 9ph water through 1L of growing medium and expect it to still be in the 5.8 - 6.2 range.... soooo just be aware of this! you know the ph of the water in your area? THE DRAINAGE NB: if your medium gets waterlogged you might drown the baby, as it is a very very young plant and it is very easy to drown / dampen off the little ones, you may wana pay attention to your drainage. how long does the medium stay wet throughout the pot? maybe do a little testy test, grab same size pot, fill with soil and no plant, saturate the medium and see how long it dries out? if it takes longer than 5 days (in your tent, where you will be growing, not outside in the sun) then that means you got a waterlogging issue and flushing the girls in a medium that doesn't drain well will kill them quicker than they dying right now. if that's the case, I'll say wait till they dried out completely, transplant right away into FF with no surgery, give just enough water for new medium to be moist (at this time the old medium should be dried out) and hope for the best. use some mycoroot when transplanting.3 points
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I have one fast finisher and then I have at least a 10 weeker. No signs of slowing down yet.3 points
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Monday 16th August: week 7 of flower. No complaints this side. Lots of trichomes around and getting very sticky.3 points
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Good evening to all like minded (mostly[emoji3526]) people. Same same the last week with one feeding and just rainwater when needed . Good luck to all with the final packing nice tight buds stretch of the wonderfull creation Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk3 points
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3 points
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Kept up with the feeding this week, so they are looking a lot happier Not perfect, but its what time allows right now.3 points
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So I went to give my plants a foliar spray now to help boost them and get them back on track, and I am amazed at the change in the colour of their leaves and even the stems! @CreX came over last night to drop off some cuttings and he can attest to what my plants looked like, they had already gained quite a bit of colour back yesterday already and today even more so! On Sunday (4 days ago, if you include Sunday and today) is when I dosed the plants with the Imidacloprid, this is the change in the stems. Since Sunday, the growth has been quite fast, leaves are getting big and they're already greener than before. I think the below pictures taken of two different plants proves the fact. At this point, it really does feel as if the plants are much happier, getting the nutrients they need and the war against these root aphids has been won. Feeding has been the same, no change in the type of nutrients or strength of the nutrients I have given the plants. GHE Tripart at the vegging dose for coco.2 points
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Thank you Sir.. Done just that.. Also got a heater fan and the climate is now far more stable. 17-24°C and 55-65 RH..2 points
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Lekker super frosty and nice colour [emoji91] Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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2 points
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I fully agree , wash of the soil from the roots gently and repot in FF , well @Pants does his bonsais and he handled them ruff when he cuts the roots but they always bounce back Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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yeah, that's wild! the wild thing being that people who experienced the original skunk in the era it gained popularity are still around today and it is amongst them that the strain has gained this unicorn status, as they say, yet you're telling me anyone who has internet can just simply buy the strain today, order it online and it's gona be the exact thing everyone is buzzing on about? I think there is a big gap in the discussion that is pretty key to the object here and that is the genetic profile. I still carry my ancestors genetics, but I don't look the same as them or anything. Why is that? I guess, because of time basically, and that everything changes all the time. Environmental conditions trigger physiological morphology, the impact of human intervention and how it's surroundings and the longitude and latitude of the plants will all have an impact on its genetic profile and therefore on its future generations. The genetic might still be somewhere, but that profile is lost. maybe through extensive phenohunting you might find something close, but sooooo many people have been hunting, crossing and back crossing, just to get a similar profile to the original skunk that was lost (this is why we have 1000 different breeders claiming they got something similar to the original skunk, every seed bank has a different one, because of this fact) that I don't feel confident enough in believing untill I've seen and smelled something that makes me think of a skunk and falls under description given by one of the real big time breeders. because I would have nothing else to "cross reference" it to anyway, it would just have to alter my mind itself.2 points
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@Martin7318 can you see any root tips sticking out the bottom of the pots? just thinking if a straight transplant would help or if the roots still need to grow through the bad soil2 points
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The grower/breeder of those strains is Todd McCormick, he is direct friends with Mel Frank mentioned in the cool IG post at the top of this topic. He is the man responsible for bringing skunk and a number of other strains to the European market in 80's, 90's. With Todds rep, experience, integrity, I think you will be dealing with the real deal. Unfortunately its Skunk #1 regular from seedsman and not AGseedco. I have always enjoyed seedsman seedbank, they are great, but not to sure about their bulk genetics which I buy. I am sure I sent you pink kush too, grow that out, its on fire at the moment and not found commerically anywhere.2 points
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The 4 girls are doing well. The two Double Sunset girls took long to start though The Grape Gorilla turned into a lanky bitch and her snapped off cola is still surviving.. Chocolate Gelato.. Ds 1 & 2 Grape Gorilla..2 points
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You doing this strain good man , looks fantastic well done Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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Thank I must give most of the credit to the strain easy grower and damn does she smells , I can literally smell her from the street 25+meters from the grow room . HaHa I think the neighbors must be loving it , potent smell of sour worms and fomented fruit2 points
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I would suggest you get a Fresom Farms Premium Classic and repot that ladies , will safe you tons of time and headache Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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Update: Top dressed all with elemental blend from dirty hands inc. And watered with ph water and molasses2 points
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Finally took some clones and cleaned up the vegging #2 lady. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2 points
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Aug 7 - Aug 14: Week 6 of flower This week they got more worm tea (15ml/L) and bloom (2ml/L). Starting to get thicc #1 up close: #3 up close:2 points
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2 points
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Howzit fellow growers. I have quite a loaded question regarding my soil mix for the upcoming outdoor season with a pic of my jar soil analysis for reference. I used Subcool's New Super Soil Mix recipe as reference and added a couple of additional amendments as per recommended ratios. Note: No Wormcastings unfortunately. Here follows my recipe and total volume is about 250L or 9 cubic ft: Base Mix: - 3 x 30l compost mix - 3 x 20l potting soil mix (peat moss based) - 1 x 20l sand (mix of mostly sand and fine clay from garden) - 5 x 1kg Coco Coir bricks - 1 x 30l bag Perlite Amendments: - 1kg Bone Meal - 3 x cups Kelp Meal - 3/4 cup Epsom salt - 1 x cup Dolomite lime - 1kg Soft Rock Phosphate - 5L Biochar - 1L Diatomaceous Earth - 1L Insect Frass (BSFL) - 1L Basalt Rock Dust - 1cup Gypsum - 1 cup barley seeds for kicks This mix is currently cooking under a tarp until end Sept when i am planning to start using it. Then as mulch, i will be using Alfalfa Mulch and maybe a cover crop (Clover, Sprouting Barley etc.) Not going into feeding etc. Mostly rain water feeds and some Epic on occasion. How does my ratios as per attached pic look? Any feedback from a soil expert would be greatly appreciated1 point
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1 point
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They shouldn't be hungry in fresh soil.. they look better too. Is to early to be hungry ^^ they haven't taken over the pot yet. Let them dry up and grow a bit more, and repot with the FF soil. I would skip the Biodyne, lawn dressing ^^ and just use the BioBizz Grow during veg and get the bloom with a bottle of Top Max or any other silica booster and a 150 rand bottle amino boost, use that stuff already now. Just to be sure you don't bug them but give some needed nitrogen, wet very soft with a 1ml Grow solution. Let your pots dry up after. And go 2ml per liter Grow... only water when they need.. lift that pot1 point
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1 point
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Ya I don't think it was pollinated, tents are always closed and I don't have any males around. Gotta keep truckin, is what it is. I did however manage to grow a tortoni clone, the T3 that @Totemic grew, Ill post it on the snapshot comp as I think its worthy.1 point
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Depends if you want to flower them in that size also , if so you can't veg for to long might end up watering a few times a day and you will have to feed a little more than usual . But if you want to repot again to a 20-25L you can put them in that size. No harm done that way . Some growers like to repot a few times and other just germ small and then in final. Both have pros and cons. Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk1 point
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Do you think I could chuck them straight in to their 11ltr pots from here, or should I go buy some slightly larger pots than what they're in? I'm thinking this is the best way forward.1 point
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Week 12 Update / Flower Week 6 There's not much to report on this week. It has been really cold lately and the girls looked slightly stressed, except Ms Organic, she definitely took it a lot better than the other 2, she didn't even show the slightest sign of stress. Got a few buds on the leaves even some on fan leaf stems. Other than that everything seems to be going okay. Serious stretch on T2 though, I'm contemplating supercropping the long branches Bud growing on leaf stem: Bud growing on leaf:1 point
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1 point
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So I've reached the end of week one of flower. Took them outside to give some water and a bit of a defoliating. Did a minimal snip and decided to pull some branches to the side and secured to the bags with pipe cleaners rather than go overboard with the snips. Group pic then 1,2,3 in top view. Hope I did the right thing.1 point
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