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Blumat's in and scrog on , tugging for another 2-3 weeks at most and then flip. Left the old soil in and topped up 18L with Elemental Blend mixed with Coco/Spagnum Peat Moss. First feeding with FF Micro and Probiotics , week later fed Humic & Fulvic Acid . Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk7 points
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Update. 19.08.21 Harvest soon lol Just cleaning up... This plant survived hail and stuff7 points
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It's time for a new journey & a new diary, & let me be completely honest I was going to do this diary once I had reached harvest with pics and video and skip the all boring veg phase, but I soon found myself with a lot more work and a lot more content than Id like so I thought let me start this diary and update it on a monthly bases. OK so what are we doing this time? SETUP: We doing 15L & 20L autopots A side by side of organic and synthetic Organics are setup using 12mm lead piping and valve 5s Syntheic is setup using 6mm lead pipe with standard valves MEDIUM: For synthetics we going with perlite & coco (washed and buffered a week before potting) For organics going with coco & perlite ammended with malted barley, kelp meal, guano, frass, dolomite, biochar, aloe, alfalfa & Bokashi STRAINS: The strains will be Super Silver, K-2, Zkittlez & original glue by @Marijuana Seeds SA & Nirvana LIGHTS: This time we pulling out the Mars Hydro SP 3000 from the start with the help from the Leon 200, that's more than enough power in the hood for this grow I started off germination with some water in a cup and after 2 days potted in coco on a heat mat for 2 weeks in the dome with very light feed every 4 days 5 days later... All but 2 didn't sprout. Well.. One was very late to the party the other one never showed face so I decide to pop anther zkittlez seed At the end of 2 weeks they were ready to be trasplanted into their final pots Right side synthetics. Left side organics. At this point I had to top feed for at least 2 weeks before the roots were established in the Autopot system After 2 weeks of top feeding its was finally time to turn on the systems Some nice socks for the ladies.. Looks more like a water tube.. (well they are going for a swim after all) Zkittlez & Original Glue first week of veg6 points
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Day 6 of Week 15 Update They got 2 liters of 1/3/4 - 4 And made my first close up to check the Trichomes.. would say I am on track and in 2 weeks they should be ripe and decent amber6 points
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5 points
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If there's a limit on how much 1 should post here, admin, please let me know. But I'm so happy seeing this little one in all its glory this afternoon5 points
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Some random shots to conclude this diary. Still curing so I haven't sampled any yet. GZ is getting some smell back in the jar after having zero smell after drying. The lemon cheese STANK from mid flower all the way to now, you could smell it outside my front door while it was drying in the bathroom. Gorilla Zkittlez after drying for 10 days, just before trim and jar. Ended up with 48g. Franco's Lemon Cheese just after harvest. Dried, I got 50g of decent sized tight buds and 40g leafy tiny buds4 points
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So flowering is at a steady pace. Looks like the cold weather is bringing on snow [emoji301]️ Girls getting frosty Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk4 points
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watchout for that hippy lore lol - its a VERY loose guideline for if you really cant get a microscope or a loupe. i have had plants with pistols that are 100% brown, but the trichomes were still 100% clear way too early for a harvest like that - always check trichomes a sneaky way i have checked for trichomes with my naked eye, is by moving the bud around underneath the light and looking for glitter sparkles, this gets light to enter the trichome, and be reflected off the far end of the trichome, indicating a clear trichome. trichomes that dont glitter back, are going milky or are milky - and on rare occasions when the bud is the right colour, i can make out amber trichomes.... but i dont trust my eyes that much except for the glitter sparkle check. i generally check trichomes with my microscope when i see the glitter is very low or i cant get it to glitter under the light3 points
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As deciding when to harvest is quite a decision to make. I go a bit deeper into 'detail' why I do what. And as usual, use me only as a indicator.. I can't walk over water or bend the laws of physics... yet Two sections of the bud.. lower part with sugar leaves. You find very little amber and majority is milky to clear still. Milky is the easiest to spot against the green background. If you know there is a trichome but you cant really define it.. is clear, not amber. How honest you are to what you see is a bit key. Middle part, mix of sugar leaves and calyxes, flowers. Most here is still clear and just started to get milky, no amber to be found. Those are sections from the bud of the post before. Pistils are mostly dry as you see, and if you harvest now, potency would be rather low. Just needs more time to ripen. As you remove all leaf material, also the sugar leaves, while dressing.. just makes zero sense to harvest with the sugar leaves as indicator. When the final material shows the right signs you harvest. Is a nasty waiting game3 points
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Those roots do look good, I’m willing to bet these plant will recover and thrive in a couple of days. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk3 points
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3 points
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8 weeks flower will be next week Saturday so I will harvest at that point. Buds don't look terrible so there's that Until then, observe my eish;3 points
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I decided to go ahead with the repot. I started with the first 1 and to my surprise I saw what I'd describe as healthy ass roots. I left the pots quite dry on top to get rid of some of the other soil and popped them straight in to the FF. From the varying comments I imagine some will say I should have done it differently, others will say I did the right thing. The longer I'm a part of this awesome community the more I realize that although there is a definite science behind it, with loads of particulars, there are plenty ways to skin this cat. I'm here to learn and if my plants die I've got the seeds to start again, I'm learning and enjoying it. Thanks to all who have shared their wisdom thus far. I truly appreciate it.3 points
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High 420Buds, So I've never done a grow diary before or even a personal one for that matter So bear with me... I joined the discussion in the clone topic and the seed was planted by a fellow member to make a diary using clones I purchased from GSR. So, I received them on Saturday 14th August, and I must compliment the bank on their excellent customer service. Their communication throughout the purchasing process and advice was great catering to a proper newbie + amateur home grower. Enough talk, here they are as packaged 14 Aug 21. Clones (genetics): 3 X Terple (In House) 1 X Tally Man (Oni Seed)2 points
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PH is one of the most important thing , that's where most deficiencys can be corrected. With hydro PH check is a must , veg is different than flower also . With soil it's debatable , microbes in general sort out the ph , nature runs on rainwater ( by me it's 7,2) . But soil with lots of Coco in is another PH , some Coco buffers up and down and the soil I'm using buffers up to 6,5 , so I can give water that 5ph and it's fine but I can't really give just plain rainwater although I do sometimes and my little microbe friends helps me. I think barky soil has a low pH , correct me if I'm wrong. But there will always be different opinions if nobody knows what we grow in . Most of the fermented feedings bring ph down , I don't measure anymore , with time I know just add so much ml of this and that and all good. You on the right track with the FF Premium brother. Btw your roots look fine . As @Prom suggested they need food now . Follow his advise he has nailed BioBizz feeding down [emoji323] Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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that is a fast bounce back ^^ let them dry, then go 2ml per liter grow right away.. they need some more green Nice job, you saved em2 points
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Will be cleaning under the scrog in the coming week Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk2 points
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rolled all to a long thin "sausage" and put it in the middle of a joint. Watched 'Edge of Tomorrow' after.. enjoyed the couch2 points
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Hey there guys.. I know of a grower that was growing this on a large scale it was where most of the stock in the western cape came from but I have lost you h with him as he was giving bulk stock at rediculous prices because of the hype that surrounded it when it was going around ... I must confess I'm an indica fan but when I hit the first bowl of this through glass it reminded me of a bump back in the day of really good cocaine... Now I know that'll get some people ranting but I know what I felt and that's what I can relate it to the best I was washing the dishes cleaning the flat and wanting to chat alot so what does that remind you of... Anyway that grower is in the farmlands near hermanus.... But 100k for 1kg that's absolute madness if you buying in hydroponic indoor 1kg at a time the price never exceeds R85-90k and that's next level artisanal grown hydroponic indoor R50-60k is normally what I'd expect to pay though anyway it was super dank but I think that was then nowdays that type of quality and potency is available far and wide these days I even own a online despensary with an app to download to order just like take out so things are moving in this industry since then that's for sure2 points
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Sorry about this bud. Such a kak one. What kinda symptoms were you seeing? Did you spot any nanners or male flowers? Being F1 fem seeds, the chances of this happening to a few plants are there I guess. It's a pity you couldn't spot it sooner as there's probably 1 plant that is the culprit.2 points
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Just saw this post now. Being in cannabis you learn to grow trust issues, but its a basic human requirement, trust. Without a doubt, Skunk, Durban is used as a marketing tool and probably most strains available have nothing to do with the original name. Skunk for instance became famous in the UK as it was used by police in media and generally was used to refer to highgrade indoor, Skunk/Chronic. So what happened, smokers would ask their dealers for the real skunk. You have to filter through the BS, read up on people with street cred ( Maljim, Todd McCormick, Joseph Pietri, Mel Frank, Sam the Skunkman, Mowgli Holmes ) find out about the strains and then start growing them.2 points
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Very true. And the Dp seeds that are advertised 8-10weeks flower....definitely not the real deal Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk2 points
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2 points
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people also rave on about DP being alive and well still to this day and you can just simply find the exact genetics at every second seed bank and every one of them claim to be legit and backing it with stories of being directly linked to the founders or whatever may be the case, sadly it's all about marketing and selling seeds. being from south africa gives a lot of our locals the idea that we have original genetics right at our finger tips, while that is true to a certain extent we certainly will be last to get our hands on the legit shit with people like Mel Frank and other big names out there. here is a video of Mel Frank himself talking bout the DP that gained the buzz back in the day, just a quick little youtube search, not going in too deep here, but listen to the first words he speaks in this video, this is very important to what we're discussing here... straight out the horse's mouth "I WISH I HAD THE ORIGINAL DURBAN POISON"... lol now if Mel Frank himself sais that, I am gona have a hard time believing some random Richard about the genetic being easy to find.2 points
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GREAT you gona be fine those roots look good man yip, listen go back to the guy at the grow shop who told you that plant is hungry and ask him if it was his first day at the job? Don't wana be mean but in that position you cannot be telling people that crazy stuff!!! cannabis plants will grow 100% fine from the trace amount of nutrients in pure clean water for up to 2 months depending on strain before starting to become hungry. surely in a soil loaded with nutes this cannot be the case. but now that you got some FF it will be much easier to narrow down the situation. you got enough food in FF soil to last you a good while. A few good rules to follow in a organic situation is "Rather too little than too much" and "Let your plant tell you she's dry and hungry then feed her, instead of overfeeding and then having to deal with root damage". lift the pots did you water them in with 5.8ph water? with a living soil situation you gotta aim for the 5.5 to 5.9 range when the plant is young then you gradually raise the ph as the plant gets older never going over 6.5. take ph readings once everythings mixed into the water already, then adjust if needed. as mentioned the soil can buffer up from 4.5 or so, but I will try my best to keep it in range at this point. bring all these little things in check and you'll see your olant explode with new growth.2 points
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I had seeds 2 months ago, one of the Pineapples rodelized. Found the male flowers in the top of the buds all over the plant when dressing dry buds, frustrating discovery.. just sprinkled in. The rodelizing plant was absolutely unusable, that many seeds. Seeds are also dump.. even they would be feminized but no characteristic you want to keep.. seeds suck in buds ^^2 points
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Confirmed girl and she was put in the final pot.. Stoked so even if the other 2 is male I'm happy..2 points
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2 points
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Some real nice colors starting to happen here. Her bud is feeling nice n thick, the other Tortoni is a bit soft n fluffy feeling. Saturday she will be week 7*2 points
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18 August 21 Transplanted into 21 L pots with Coco and Perlite 75/25 mix. Used half strength synthetic feed - GT Hydro Nutriplex 3 Fabric pots - Terple 1 Air pot - Tally Man First pic on the day received - 14.8.21 Second pic after cuttings have had 2 days in their new home. Droopy medium still moist - 16.8.21 Third pic starting to perk up - 17.8.212 points
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No limit brother , post [emoji1787] Sent from my Hisense Infinity H50 using Tapatalk1 point
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Hey @PsyCLownhope you well. So for the organics I'm mainly using RO water in a 50L flexi tank. Once a week I ll turn the system off and let the plants drink whatever water is in the tray for a day I will than top feed them with some dirty hands bio boost and bio nitro, with Silica dosage also once a week and separate day from the Bio boost & Nitro. I'm not sure how the silica will mix with the bio boost and bio nitro so I decided to do it on a separate day. Will ammend again before the flip and continue using RO water in the res for organics For synthetics im using silica, umyas cal mag, and the NutriGold range (Previously Known as Nutriplex) changing the res once a week1 point
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Was just a random thought and happened to fall on judgement day. I did flip on flip day. But after the overwatering issues during veg they toon a good 3+ weeks to show pistols. Loupe for ambers all the way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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We hijacking the Skunk thread. I would love to share more info about the Durban, and have written a 2500 plus word article on it that has yet to be published. Very nice video you shared and important to know from the source what is happening. Its the same sentiment I get from sharing Durban seeds to medical grows in Lesotho, hence my words further up on this post about seedsman. However, he was not the only person to collect Durban. There are a couple breeders that collected them, seeds went to the USA, Europe and Canada ( Dana Larsen ). Nothing came of the seeds in Canada but we also had a local breeder ( Afropips ) who worked with Durban in the UK in the early 2000's, on top of that in the late 70's, early 80's we had a smuggler start a Dagga coffeeshop in Amsterdam. He specialised in Durban. Glad to say Durban Poison is rated as the top 10% rarest profiles on Phylos and that specific Durban has been tracked for about 40 years from source. Its now sold as a hybrid on growlikejoe.com1 point
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One of the most informative (and sad) posts I have seen on this forum. Especially on a pest that's not very well documented. Sad for your financial knock but happy that you have seemed to find the trick that tames the beast. I hope your troubles are over friend and that many more grows can prosper without those fuckers.1 point
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My soil PH meter definitely isn't indicating that it's low. Checked all pots last night and they all seem to be on the high side of 6 ph?1 point
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So I have photos of when I first noticed the root aphid issue, not the best but thought to post them for anyone who stumbled upon this thread later on. May help them identify the issue, although pretty easy to tell if something is on your roots. You get some which are light in colour and some which are dark in colour, based on my research the ones darker in colour are a big issue and far more difficult to kill and seem to be resistant to more pesticides. They may also change colour as they grow, not 100% sure on this. I saw reports where Orthene was not working as well against these darker root aphids experienced in some tobacco fields. To date I have spent over R2000 on pesticides trying to get rid of these root aphids. The following is what I have tried: Bio-Insek Powder (beauvaria Bassiana & Metarhizium) - also contains diatomaceous earth along with the spores. Applied as a soil drench only. Eco-Insect Control (Spinosad) - applied as both a soil drench and foliar. Even tried doses upto 1.6ml per L Bio-Neem (Azadirachtin) - Applied as a soil drench at the recommended dose of 5ml per L and applied as a foliar as well (same dose) I then thought I might be winning the battle and continued to drench with the above mentioned products as a pre-caution. I even filled the bottom of my rooting tray with the mixture I used as a soil drench to help my new set of cuttings make it without these darn root aphids... End of last week however I took a peak into my clone dome only to notice roots, but one cutting which had rooted had root aphids, the other cuttings looked fine. I tossed the cutting which contained the root aphids in the bin along with all cuttings of that strain, sprayed some doom into the bin and took the bag outside... Very disappointed and frustrated, felt as if all the money I had spent, all the time and effort on applying these drenches was all for nothing. I even went as far as to soak the glue plugs in the soil drench solution with the above 3 mentioned products before putting the cuttings into the clone dome and I cleaned out the clone dome (top and bottom) with a heavy JIK (bleach) solution to ensure it was as clean as could be. Of course the dome went into the veg tent, which at the time I thought and hoped was root aphid free - they just took a short vacation, chilling in the coco it would seem. My plants in my veg tent did not look happy, the most purple stems I have ever seen and such light, pale, yellow leaves. It's shocking and very disappointing. Growth is extremely slow as well. After further research and more reading, it become clear to me that based on my experiences and the experiences of many other growers out there - using these organic pesticides is more of a money pit and quite frankly a waste of time. The fact that even some systemic pesticides such as Orthene are not effective against these root aphids was also a clear indication that I have a big issue on my hands. I read a comment someone had made somewhere stating that they took multiple pesticides (I think 10 in total, of which 2 were systemic) and mixed them at higher doses and put them into a small cup each. This person then proceeded to break off pieces of roots which were covered in root aphids from his cuttings and leave it in the cup with the pesticides and he wait a week only to find that majority were not very effective and the root aphids were swimming around having a pool party in the pesticides. The Imidacloprid was the one pesticide which stood out and was different and had killed all of the root aphids. How true this is, I cannot say - it is just some comment I found on the internet although it is a comment I can relate to. As mentioned previously in this thread, I kept the rooted cuttings in my clone dome initially and then used that as a way to test the pesticides. I dunked the cuttings into solutions of the pesticides and then monitored to see whether they were actually working on not. From what I saw, it took a few days but there was a reduction in root aphids most appeared to be dead but it did not happen over night despite the direct contact (full submersion) into the pesticide solution which contained the above 3 mentioned pesticides. I suspect the Bio-Insek did work as well as I saw some fungus on some areas of the glue plugs after a week or so, at this point I thought I was winning the war against the root aphids. I potted up the cuttings after getting rid of the root aphid carcasses, I dunked each cutting into the pesticide solution again (it was a fresh solution each time, I never let the solution sit for a period of time) - glue plug and plant and then put them into some fresh coco in fresh fabric pots which were either brand new and just unpacked from the box or which had been through a washing machine cycle. So fast forward back to me noticing root aphids on the new, 2nd batch of cuttings after I had thought I was winning the war... I then inspected some of the plants which were in smaller plastic pots which needed to be potted up. Upon very very close inspection of the roots coming out from the bottom of the pots with a torch, I noticed those mother fucking root aphids again. So it was clear to me that my attempt at getting rid of these root aphids had failed and the money I had spent was a waste and at best took out a small percentage of the root aphid population. I potted up the plants, the weird thing being that once the plant was removed from the pot, I could not see the root aphids anymore. Closely inspecting the roots of these plants, I could not find the root aphids (the coco was a bit wet, so it fell apart when removing form the small plastic pots and was put into the larger 20L fabric pots). So even when inspecting roots when transplanting, they are not easy to see. They can easily be missed, especially if one is not looking for them - this just makes it that much more difficult to notice you have these pests. Over the weekend and after more research and debate with myself, I decided fuck it and pulled the trigger and purchase some ProTek Complete 350 SC (Imidacloprid). A mere R170 for a 50ml bottle. Read the pamphlet, mixed it at 1ml per L and as I was about to dose the plants (I was actually wearing gloves while doing this, but upon further research it seems that is actually not needed. Not absorbed very well via topical application and the doses to cause any harm seem to be extreme doses. Like the entire bottle in concentrate form per KG of body mass. It is used as a spot on for animals, we all know animals lick and groom themselves - heck some of us may have even used it on our own animals without knowing) I saw a root aphid chilling on top of the one fabric pot, I picked it up and put it into a droplet on my gloves of the solution and as soon as it touched the solution it stopped moving. I think it died immediately, maybe not. I stared at it for quite a while waiting to see if it would move again and it did not. I then put the fucker into the solution just incase. I wanted it to die a slow, painful death and wanted to make sure it was dead. I continued to dose the plants in my tent with the solution of Imidacloprid. Now I know, some of you reading this will be shocked, horrified and disgusted that I have dared to use a systemic pesticide on my cannabis plants - fuck, not just any systemic pesticide but a neonicotinoid, Imidacloprid! Oh my goodness, the possibilities and potential health risks. Well shit, the decision did not come easily... but more on that later*. I got to one plant in my tent, which just so happened to have a piece of grass growing inside of the pot as well (random I know, not sure where it came from but whatever), I ran out of solution. I had started applying a bit over the portion with the grass. I needed to meet up with a friend so quickly stepped out, upon my return I noticed 3 root aphids chilling on the piece of grass, dead! I blew and they just fall down, lifeless. Man oh man, did this make me excited! I mixed more solution and then noticed the plant was a male (regular seeds), so it got the cut. I did drench the coco and leave it in the tent to ensure any and all root aphids inside that pot die as well. The plant which got the cut went into a bag and into the bin outside straight away. So it has now been a few days since I dosed the plants, there has been no sign whatsoever of root aphids and the plants are starting to perk up and are already starting to get some colour back in their leaves! This shit is legit, it really seems to work! It is still early days, I know but from the reports I have read, people have gotten rid of their root aphids with a single application of this Imidacloprid. It is systemic and travels up the plant and continues to travel up the plant as they grow. So any root aphids which may survive or eggs which did not die on contact for whatever reason, should die shortly after sinking their mouthes / teeth / whatever into the flesh of my plants. I will continue to monitor these plants, but at this point in time I feel as if I may have actually, eventually, managed to get rid of these root aphids and am pretty confident I have. *Back to the possible risks of Imidacloprid with cannabis. I will be honest, my thinking was that if it is used on tobacco which is also smoked and if it is not very toxic when ingested, it does make me feel a bit more at ease using this particular systemic pesticide on cannabis. I understand that cannabis and tobacco are different, so it could be a danger in cannabis and not so much in tobacco. We all know that smoking is not good for us, period. Chances are we may have already consumed cannabis which has been dosed with Imidacloprid prior to us growing our own. Difference is, at least I know what is in mine and I can take precautious and it is my choice as to whether I decide to consume the cannabis or not (still undecided) and I can even send the bud to a lab to be tested. My grow is indoors only, so bees are safe. I will need to make sure I dispose of the coco responsibly as well to avoid contamination in nature as I understand this pesticide is a big issue for bees and fish as it can get into water supplies easily. I would not dose outdoor plants with this. Not that I typically allow my pets into my grow area, however if they did get in and chomped on my plants I feel safe that it would not cause much if any harm to them. I do not plan on continuing to use this pesticide either, it is a temporary effort to get rid of the pests. Only the plants in my veg tent were dosed, the ones in flower still have root aphids and will not be dosed with Imidacloprid. So that is a bit of an update and where I stand at the moment. I feel that if I were to let these plants veg, take cuttings and then flower those cuttings it would be safe to consume the bud from those plants as it would be over 3 months before those cuttings went into flower and I do not believe the systemic pesticide would be in very high quantities, if at all, in the plant still and do not think it would transfer to the bud. I do want to look at sending bud in to be tested to see what the results are for interest sake - bud from the plants which were dosed. I feel I could have probably gotten away with a lower dose of 0.5ml per L based on the pamphlet and the results I have seen so far. Even if the dose is not high enough to kill the root aphids, at lower doses it can disorientate them and cause them to wander and stop eating. I will provide further feedback after a bit of time. I documenting this for anyone who may run into this pest in the future and hope that it can help them out.1 point
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Although I am rough with them roots, it only gets done to plants at least 5/6 nodes high. These still look way too small and fragile to be causing that amount of stress. Have lost plants trying it this small. Just let them dry out properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Thank you sir.. I wasn't sure.. But I nuked them again annyway.. Will do it again before lights out this evening. No sign of it today but I will nuke em again..1 point
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Day 56. Last update before harvesting GZ this week. The top buds look so much more ripe then the bottom ones, I considered harvesting them separately but I think I'll just leave the whole plant for 4-5 more days. Low night temperatures making everything go dark purple, lowest so far has been 13.6 degrees. Lemon cheese: Gorilla zkittlez:1 point
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I haven't grown either of those, but do start a log when you pop those beans, so we can all follow along, and give the breeders the exposure1 point
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