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Hi folks, So it's been a while since I last posted about my grow but I thought better late than never (and also skipping most of the veg part is more entertaining) This is my 3rd indoor grow and I have learnt a lot from my last 2 grows from fellow forum members. Special shout out to @The Grass Baas @The_StonedTrooper @PsyCLown @Prom @Bay Seeds @Stinger96 @GGG @GreenGrow Garden Route @Weskush for all their guidance and support with the previous grow. I have learnt a lot from you guys and will attempt to apply it with this grow. What went wrong previously? I neglected my plants and encountered the following: - Too much N (nute frequency overall) - Not enough airflow - Not enough defoliation - And a one shoe fits all approach (which doesn't work well with several different strains) What am I doing differently this time round? - Every watering doesn't need to be a feed (let the plant tell you when they need something) - Each strain will have their own frequency of feeding and quantity thereof - Airflow/Circulation is key - Defoliate, defoliate, defoliate... we don't need no nodes stealing energy from the nodes that we want to create into big fat ass nugs - And some IPM for the issues that might catch you off guard So what am I working with for this grow? I decided on a mix of old school variants with some local and international breeders filling the gap. I am running 4 strains of feminised seeds from Old School Genetics courtesy of @Golden-Goose , 2 strains from Motherland Genetics (hope the drama on the photos wasn't an indication of the quality of genetics that they supposedly produce) and lastly some 2 super tasty InHouse strains courtesy of some cuttings from my man @PsyCLown. IPM measures with wood cider vinegar courtesy of @Thrive Strains in play: Old school genetics - White Bubblegum Old school genetics - White Afghan Skunk Old school genetics - Super Silver Haze 98 Old school genetics - OSG Cheese Motherland genetics - Purple Dosidos Motherland genetics - Sunset Sherbet S1 InHouse - Blunicorn InHouse - Jelly Breath Started of with germination on the 28th of September with a 100% germination success rate. I normally go for the 3 topping 8 cola mainline but this time round I decided to do a 2 top manifold mainline which some people call a flux mainline. (Hoping to decrease veg time) I also installed a oscillating fan from the roof of the tent to aid in circulation. Today was the last clean up in the veg cycle and I took clones of each for a buddy to keep for us to see which one we want to keep and work with... I am about 2 weeks from flip to flower and this is the current situation... Here we go with some pictures to tie it up... Seedlings Clones joining the picture Pre clean up White Bubblegum White Afghan Skunk Purple Dosidos Jelly Breath (no before pic taken) Blunicorn Sunset Sherbet Super Silver Haze 98 OSG Cheese Attempt at a level canopy Clones New fan IPM Wood cider vinegar Thank you for reading. I am very excited to see where this grow goes

Just wanted to give some input here, as there's a lot of misinformation about Hitler and a lot of it is still kept very close to the circle that it originated from. I want to share some information without pissing anybody off, because the reality is that the grower who supplied most of the country doesn't want the lineage out there, understandably so, sometimes these things are worth holding close. But the short of it, is that it's likely a clone-only pheno which is held by a couple of people at most. There's been a lot of fake Hitler cuts sold and some people are still convinced they have it when they don't. I've handled a fair bit of Hitler through friends who were getting supply directly from the grower for bulk resale, and it's quite a unique flower that is easy to identify, both visually and just by the taste profile. Having smoked a 20+ grams myself, I can't say there's anything in there to suggest Cheese. Structurally, the bud resembles a lot of OG cuts, and I'd venture to guess that it's an OG hybrid. The terpenes also seem to suggest it with earthy, lime, gassy notes mostly prevalent. Again, structurally it looks a lot like OG, or even perhaps an OG x Cookies cut as there is a resemblance to some Animal Cookies phenos, and the level of trichome coverage and smaller nug size is a little atypical for most OG cuts. A buddy moved several hundred Gs of it also seemed to think it was likely an OG dominant cut as well. Smoking some Hitler hash rosin from the grower, it also seemed to carry those same muted, earthy, lime notes. Again, I've heard at least 10 versions of what Hitler is. But I think there's probably only a handful of people that know the answer to that. This type of thing is common in America, where cuts are found from seed and then renamed for marketing purposes and also sometimes to conceal lineage. Once lineage is out there, others can try and refind the pheno and take a chunk of the market for themselves. So the way Hitler was handled, was definitely very smart from a business sense. But also incredibly frustrating for those of us who love digging into lines and seeing which traits come from where. Here's an image of one of the first batches of Hitler that hit the market here around Cape Town circa late 2018 / early 2019. Just to close, I'm no authority on the details of Hitler and I respect the desire for the lineage to remain hidden, but these are just my thoughts from smoking a fair bit of it.

7 days later. Spent the last week tucking where I can. Not sure if it's the correct way but I'm gonna let her stretch and tuck stems under the net above over the next week and a bit. Still just water and molasses with every other watering.

Thanx man. Yeah I learnt my lesson there the hard way. One would think the more you feed the better and stronger the plants will be which is not the case. The N toxicity does not necessarily reflect in burnt tips so you might think you are doing a good job and have a beautiful dark green colour leaf but in the mean time it's like force feeding the poor lady.

Nice one looking good man! Love the bit about not every watering needs to be a feed.

The Jack here and Bubalicious I yielded 2 decently frosty females about revegged, should be stable for the flip next week. Jack Herer is growing nicely some of the Tomato’s and cherry tomato’s. and always lekke when it’s about time to flip time.

Used to run autos extensively and have flowered them at all light cycles (12/12, 18/6, 20/4 and 24/0) An autoflower is an autoflower. Fast flowering photoperiod plants are not autoflowers. If you're buying an auto, assuming the breeder hasn't fucked up in the process of creating them. They will flower regardless of light cycle in 99% of times. I've heard of a few isolated cases where people found their auto wasn't flowering so they lowered the light cycle to induce it. This is often anecdotal though, as the grower may simply have triggered the flowering response in a photoperiod seed accidentally sold as an auto. PS: I've found 20/4 to be the best flowering cycle for autoflowers.

Awesome! Excited to give it a grow. So 10 to 11 weeks.

Looking good so far bro. Beautiful line up of strains.

I use logik box fans from game comes with a 3 year warranty I've had them for about 2 years now still running fine

A different pheno...

3 weeks from flip. Trichome development will start in earnest at about 5 weeks, and then they will continue to pack on the resin right up until harves. Both parents have this trait. Same with the weight. They will kick into high gear at around 5 weeks and continue to pack it on right until the end.

And the forest from her cuttings almost done. Some spots of WPM and lots of spider mite damage. Will try a budwash but prob chuck it. What you all think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Double Krush from seed is 10 weeks, and same for most Pineapple Fields will be 11 weeks although there is one pheno done in 9 weeks. For Pineapple Chem 10 weeks should get the job done.

Gorilla Zkittlez OSG Cheese Baklava

12/12 from 6pm tonight.

this video been in my feed for a while, watched it just last night, good share man, thanks! this video speaks a lot on the whole "skunk #1" discussion that was had on here a while back. every day in the cannabis community you will hear someone saying "I am looking for that old school genetics", in understanding what that means the people who say it need to also understand what they're actually saying. at the very least. you can get a seed with that name, easy. some guys been working with cannabis for long enough that they breeding seeds these days and they still claiming phenotypes from back in 1970's will be still the same today. you might find seeds with those names, even the seeds with those names directly from the breeder that shat the brick of gold back in the 70's, that does not in the slightest mean that the genetics are still the same. Phenotypical Plasticity - I will remember that, because I know it won't be too long before I hear those "I am looking for that REAL DANK old school genetics" words again.

rolled all to a long thin "sausage" and put it in the middle of a joint. Watched 'Edge of Tomorrow' after.. enjoyed the couch

Without a doubt, the timeline most breeders give is not accurate. You do get strains which have amber in 8 to 9 weeks from flipping to 12 / 12 but not all that common. One thing to keep in mind is the pheno variation as well in a pack of seeds, this can lead to the difference as well as some breeders just stating a shorter flowering time to make the strain seem more appealing. Differences in how people refer to the stages the plants life or when they start counting can contribute towards the variation as well. In this forum it seems majority refer to flower and start counting from day 1 on the day the lights are changed to 12 / 12. I do this myself, however the first 3 weeks of this I refer to as the pre-flowering phase and after that comes the actual flowering phase. Some may separate the two and reference the flowering phase (after the stretch / pre-flowering) as the time. Take the breeders guideline with a pinch of a salt, to be on the safe side add around 2 weeks to their timeline to prevent unhappiness from expecting a short flowering strain and having to wait longer to harvest. Exact same applies to autoflowers, if anything the timelines given on autoflowers is often far more inaccurate compared to the photoperiod flowering timelines. I feel 10 weeks of flower is average. Shorter than 10 weeks is a plant which flowers quickly. Longer than 10 weeks is a plant which takes it's time to flower. The other difference is under what conditions do people consider a plant ready to harvest? Some might like all cloudy with little to no amber and others want it as amber as possible. Would be great if it could be standardized, however it is simply a guideline and one which should be taken with a pinch of salt