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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/2022 in all areas

  1. Hi folks Currently day 52 of flower and now I totally understand why people run carbon filters. I don't have one and our whole house smells like a terp fueled garden I have started adding some Biobizz Top Max to see if we can increase the bud size but overall I am content and happy with how they are already. The SSH is quite unique in its tricome development. It really glistens like diamonds and aren't as tightly spaced like the rest of the ladies, I am excited to see how she will progress. I will start monitoring the tricome development on the ladies to see how close we are to the chop. The lone clone is also doing its revegging thing outside White Bubblegum White Afghan Skunk Purple Dosidos Sunset Sherbet Blunicorn Jelly Breath Super Silver Haze 98 OSG Cheese Tent side view Lone Clone
    6 points
  2. Shouldn't it go off when you join the dimmer wires? Open is Max.. closed is off.. as I understand.
    3 points
  3. didnt you know? every 7 consecutive nights on the streets qualify you for a free C4 explosive at your nearest soup kitchen!
    3 points
  4. Seeing as "homeless" people are rocking casual C4 these days...
    3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. It is unfortunate that this has happened. It has little to do with cannabis imo. Sure the plant has been the scapegoat once again for an unnecessary show of force from Saps. This is about our national keypoints though. With the Parliament fire we can expect a hard change at all the keypoints.
    3 points
  7. Its most likely the dimmer, same thing happened to my QB. To test, connect the unit directly to the power source and leave the dimmer disconnected, it should run at full power which would be easy enough to see.
    3 points
  8. I would wait for another node to form then I rate it will be perfect.
    3 points
  9. I decided to give the trimmed bud a weigh-in before I start taking cheeky samples. First bud of the year comes in at 87g of ZxP. I am going to update the original post with the dates of harvest as well as the weight per harvest as we go throughout the year.
    3 points
  10. Shot family, as precaution, not that much will happen, tape those ends. Glad you back to Max W
    2 points
  11. You guys are Disconnected the potentiometer and BOOM, back to 240W Somma took the pot off the lights on the opposite side of the tent as well. Don't use it much anyway Super stoked!! My Friday is made!! Thanks for all the help guys!!
    2 points
  12. you should try a tote grow some time then man im feeling you on the better roots, better fruits vibe
    2 points
  13. sort of, open circuit ie infinity ohms is full current, but if you short the wires, nothing happens - it needs a PoTeNtOmEtEr with a specific range of ohms to operate the dimming function i think its 100 ohms
    2 points
  14. Yea getting that 2nd tent really helps, I grew with one tent for many years, and once I got a 2nd one it helped me up my harvests, the best thing is let's say you have 8 plants in veg, clone them just before they go into the flower tent, and you can have anther 8+ exact copies in the veg room ready to go into the flower tent by they time you harvest those already in the flower tent , all we do is keep the rotation going, we saving time by skipping the germination /seedling phase and we save on seeds and it takes out the guess work if you cloning because you working with what you already have. It's a win win. A 2nd tent is a game changer
    2 points
  15. Yes to reduce stress, infact there's no rule to topping, you can top as early as you see the first nodes, but it's common for seedlings to take a long time to recover if done to early and in some cases I've seen seedlings get stunted to a halt completely. 5/6 nodes or even at a later stage eliminates the recovery time and almost never stunts the plant to a degree you might aswel replace it, I just don't worry much about topping early as I used 2. Mostly because I only do it once in the plants life so I just let it grow until I'm comfortable to top as much as I need or FIM that one time. The rest is multiple supper croppings
    2 points
  16. Let's say you were to join them... thing go boom?
    2 points
  17. I know my first issue was time. From growing one or two plants outdoor for a couple years I realised having one harvest each year of around 400g of midgrade was not satisfying my needs. got my first setup couple years ago, went into harvesting around 300-350g of higher grade stuff twice a year... seemed to be enough for like 2 years. had a few fluctuations still getting to know the ropes, ran out of weed many times, wasn't a big decision to get a second tent cause I always wanted to grow more than I could smoke. started growing more outdoor again, but focusing on indoor and as soon as the space, money and time was right I got the second setup for a perpetual grow and get 4 cycles a year. one harvest was just under 400g, but they're mostly in the area of 350g which I am happy with, but quality can always go up so constantly looking for that new new lol. finally not running out anymore, my biggest issue - solved
    2 points
  18. that's a good point, I once heard a guy saying "the amount of the plant you take away matters", so if you had a 2month vegging plant and it's growing vigorously and you cut half or more than half the biomass it will also stunt the plant for a week or so. I think what adds to the reason why it stunts the plant so much when topping at such a young age might be because the part you're taking away is like half the plants biomass. same with vice versa, when the plant is big and you just top a single node it almost doesn't seem to stunt the plant at all, the less you take away the less it stresses them.
    2 points
  19. By that time the plant is growing vigorously so there is less of a chance of stunting the plant out from stress. Before this point the plant is focusing more on developing roots and sometimes it appears as though the seedling has stunted, then all of a sudden there is easily observed daily growth. It is at this point that topping is a great idea because you know you have the roots geared to pump your plant into its next stage of growth.
    2 points
  20. Yeah I have been using a lot of the kushmans chiropractics lately aswell, works well. if you don't mind me asking, is this just to reduce recovery time or would you say it's a do or die thing? if it's a matter of space sometimes you have to top low and I have topped right when the first set of 3 finger leaves show with no problem at all, they just take a few days longer to recover. you can make a bonsai out of a cannabis plant and top and train it however you like. our guy, righteoussower here has one plant in a huge open tent, he got space for days and don't have to shove a bunch of plants in next to eachother, so he can open that girl up and make her do all kinds of things in there to fill the space. kinda look at a big cannabis plant as a bonsai in a big pot that you never have to root trim. make a whole 1000 top sites off one stem. the lower he goes with that girl the wider he can make her and the more side shoots the more surface area covered when opened up.
    2 points
  21. @Righteoussower if you're tempted to truly go down this path of mainlining/manifolding (advanced topping) then I would recommend that you start with just 8 main stems and get used to growing and training a plant to obtain that kinda shape. What you want is to first obtain this kind of shape, this is a plant I did early on when I first got into growing: You obtain this by first letting your seedling get like a solid 5/6 nodes above the cotyledons. You will then top above the third node from the bottom and you will end up with something like this: You will then train the branches to grow flat horizontally using ties, preferably soft ties so you don't cut into the branches. You will grow these branches until they each have grown 4 nodes. You will then top each branch after the third node again, and also remove the 2nd pair of branches each. You will only keep the first and third nodes of each branch. This is because the 1st and 3rd nodes will grow horizontally and not vertically like the 2nd node. Then you just keep training until you get something like the first picture above. Then from there you can decide when to flip. You will then end up with something like this: You can literally take this technique and shape your plant however you want. Extreme versions are like what @Naughty.Psychonaut has posted above. There are guys who can fill entire rooms doing this with only a few plants. Just know that it will take much longer to veg your plant to first obtain the shape, and then you will need to really ace your flower period. You don't want to put all that time into growing such a complex structure only for thrips or a deficiency to just chop you at the knees, so go into it with confidence. Good luck Padawan. Extra sauce
    2 points
  22. Would it work if I just disconnect the... p-o-t-e-n-t-i-o-m-e-t-e-r ... from the quick connector? Or does the loop need to be closed somehow?
    2 points
  23. Totally in agreement. The OSG gear is really on point and I am quite impressed with the Motherland genetics as well, even though they had that little bit of a hoo-ha. Inhouse just being Inhouse and knocking the socks off...
    2 points
  24. It's called a potentiometer, gawd *sassy
    2 points
  25. Thanks for all the tips guys I appreciate each and everyone of you. Will keep you all updated with growth pictures. Thanks again!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  26. Might as well remove the meter seeing as its only there as an indication of the dimming (and by inference, the PPFD)
    1 point
  27. hell yeah, that's the hot shit right there! if time is not a big issue you can go crazy with this
    1 point
  28. Are those 5 L your final containers? I don't go anything less than 15L even with coco. More roots more fruits. All the best with your grow bro
    1 point
  29. as for a diagram on where to top, I think first what you need to do is get some side branches by opening up the top of the plant. once your side branches shooting up wards, top every single on of them. like don't even leave one top sight unplucked. if the plant makes too many shoots you can clean the undercanopy by cutting away whats's too dense and not reaching top. but rather have too many top sights than too little. when it is too late you can't add any more tops, but you can always cut some away. and when you cut some away, you got cloning stock. win win
    1 point
  30. Cool, thanks guys, I'll bypass the dimmer and see what happens, that's easy enough to do. I'd be over the moon if that sorts it out!
    1 point
  31. you getting great advice here brother just a from me, topping is a thing of preference. as long as you not cutting the very first apical bud above the cotyledon leaves - although you can do this, it will stunt the plant quite a bit - you'll be fine. either way, it is all about structure, space, what shape and how many top sights you wana create. also what time you got. in theory, as long as you don't cut below the first set of true leaves you can top whenever and whereever you like. except in flower it will just be a waste. I see you got one plant in a huge space there. if you got time you could literally top every single apical node there and end up with a table top canopy with a whoooole lot of tops. your limit is the walls of the tent. I always grow multiple different strains all at once so I can't expect a level canopy for shit, but what I do to help me is top every single dominant shoot and give the rest time to catch up. so I don't have a given time when to top. I top something somewhere every day. either top them or if the plant is already too dense in that area I soften the cambium and let the top lay in recovery for a day or two while the other tops catch up.
    1 point
  32. Good morning!!! Crazy how I lost that much seedlings. I was away for a while and had someone in charge. Came back and realised he gave them undiluted nutes. I am growing photo... The pot size is actually 5 litres. That plant was last watered 4 days ago. The water-like marks on the pot are as a result of accumulated watering overtime. So it’s stuck on there because it is a grey pot. I am very cautious with watering. I wanted to add some firmness to the roots, that’s why I have not watered for 4 days. But I will be, today. And lastly, there was no humidifier on at all. I had the plant on my window for a little sunlight. Because , I discovered that, sun treats them of many disorders. I live in a high building where humidity is almost always balanced without me having to put a humidifier on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. faqme bru you lost seedlings you already popped? usually it's with the seed pop most people have trouble with and from there it just gets easier. can we have photos of how they looked when you discovered they where dead? this will be a tell tale to what went wrong as with seeslings there can really only be a few things that went wrong... important question here - you growing autos or photoperiods? if photoperiods I would advise to use smaller pots when popping seeds and don't saturate the medium. if autos, same pots, but don't saturate the medium. just going off photos you showed thusfar it looks like you got a 10L pot or bigger with a seedling in it and the medium looks completely saturated - this is already bad - then I see you still got a humidifier in there pushing the RH up and not allowing the pots to dry out even furthering the problem. chances of underwatering in your case is probably very slim. you say you just using buffered coco with tap water, so shouldn't be a PPM issue. and with the seedlings that young it shouldn't be a PH issue either unless you gave them straight acid. this doesn't mean you don't have to keep ph in check, especially for you growing in coco. I am leaning towards damping off the seedlings, too much water, but I really can't tell without more photos
    1 point
  34. This is her recent growth update. 5 days into flowering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  35. Leaf miners? Just squish the miner's trail with both fingers. He is hiding simewhere in that brown trail. Will leave a dried hole in leaf but at least no miner
    1 point
  36. What I tend to do with my outdoors is give the plants a fairly good mist spray with the hose pipe once the plant is strong enough. A good spray under the leaves really disturb any of the pests plans. My main problem tends to be those miner things (forget correct name now) at the moment. Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  37. I read on a previous thread about the meter box thingy was giving some guys problems so they disconnected it. My wattage fluctuates ever so slightly but my electric experience tells me to leave shite alone until I know what I'm doing. Reach out directly to @Light It Up, the guys are supper helpful. Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  38. My guy Evan. Thanks very much. I will wait for one more node in that case. I followed your previous advice and trimmed the flowering plant as instructed with the diagram. Oh boy!!! She’s doing well. I need to send you a picture of her but she’s in her dark session now. Will send when it’s light time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  39. Arm twisted. Bush Pub happy hour frosty. Time to cool down.
    1 point
  40. i rate the dehumidifier will play the biggest role nice work man
    1 point
  41. yeah, I've had this with all kinds of plants and sometimes it makes me stress, but I have seen plants thriving like this aswell. the explination I gave is actually very simple, the physicality of it all is quite complex, my relationship with ants really is a love hate situation they're very interesting, but can wreak havoc if they wana and we can never be too careful I watched a documentary looooong ago about ants basically doing above ground landscaping by root management under ground. blew my mind, how they knew if they munch this certain root they know that one certain branch of the plant will die and they would prevent their habitats from getting too dense, but still not kill all the plants in the area so they still have protection and all that. sort of like they making bonsai
    1 point
  42. Like when you pick up a pot plant and find an ant nest. Interesting [emoji1690] Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  43. These are questions I do not have answers too, but would love to know as well. Will be keeping an eye on this thread
    1 point
  44. the knife can really cut both ways here, but I guess you could predict the outcome a little by trying to find out what type of ants those are. ants that take plant matter underground usually do this to create mycelial networks for them to feed on, they're mushroom farmers, yet it's not unheard of ants munching on fine roots till the plant dies, the ants attraction to the root zones is the mycelium that is commonly found around plant roots. but then again we shouldn't forget that the cannabis growing there is also a plant by defenition and is the exact thing the ants are after to help them grow more mycelium. some ant colonies like to build their farms under a plant so the plant and its roots provide structure and protection for their homes, they know this and try to not hinder the growth of the plant aswell as the extra aeration and mycelium at the root zone that helps the plant to grow. other ants go farming at the base of the plant and end up putting the plant through so much stress they become weak and start attracting pests, the ants know this and use this tactic so they get a plant to host their food, such as psy mentioned. either way, pretty cool to see this go down
    1 point
  45. Braai time is update time. Gets water when the garden gets water. Up to twice a day. Now and again a bit of molasses when I mix for indoor. Wind battering the FcUK out of it and the ants keep on dragging all sorts of things into their nest under it.
    1 point
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