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Ladies are doing well, all healthy and strong. Was hoping they would'nt get too tall, have to leave space for preflower stretch. Think they going to touch 2.0m. Had a couple of rough days with the weather, even tried prepping for that flippen cyclone-hence the net. After the rains last week, the sunshine was a female dog- hectic UV that even bleached some leaves. IPM wise, they got a biogrow insecticide spray around the bottom and middle and a Margaret roberts for worms around the tops seeing as theyre allready in preflower. Last week, topdressed with some more organic material and capped off with dry straw/grass clippings and finally watered in some tricoderma(fusarium control) Yesterday they got a maintenance dose of calmag as some plants were just starting to show a cal def. Here's to happy flowers.

Autopots and trays prepped and ready! Here is also a picture of how the roots grow into the airdomes for that good oxygen injection straight into the plant veins. I like to just about cover the airdomes with leca pebbles and then fill up with a 60/40 mix of leca pebbles and coco. I find this allows for very easy drainage for the aquavalves to cycle between feed and stop, but also allows for just enough moisture in the medium for the first week where I am still top feeding.

still stretching, DS the taller ones, BHP in the back right cathing up to the rest and FA in the middle, rest is all DS

If you run a decent size tent, which produces a fair amount of heat, consider to use the exit air as dry medium. The air coming out of the flower tent should be in their 50ies if humidity is high, 40ies if low. I live a 15 minute walk from the beach.. so humidity can go really crazy. And due to the huge swings, letting it hang can suddenly cause more issues. My dry regime is rather easy but a bit work intensive. As I work with Clones or Autos, the plant size isn't over the top. I remove all fan leaves before hanging the whole plant in my air circulation room (second filtered one goes out directly under the roof), room also harbors the AC if needed. When things go really crazy, there is no way around the AC or losing the harvest.. as soon as I am happy with the dryness of the buds.. the sticks and stems still way to wet, I remove the undressed buds into jars with hydrometers. Lock the lid and as soon as the hydrometer goes over 65%, the jars go open right under the fan flower tent exit for 2 hours. Then lock and start the game again till I have em around 60% for 2 days.. 58-62 is my range of happiness. The buds will start to cure till i decide to dress them. In any case I only dress once the jar is balanced. The goal is never ever to dry below 50% that makes the smoke bitter, no matter what you do after. But 8% is a good gap and you come to the point, where you get the right humidity in 2 ventings (under the tent exit air stream). Friend just lost half his harvest to mold inside the bud, hanging it in a dry tent, even 2 dehumidifiers running.. was just to moist for to long and 75% air moisture, the dehumidifier can't win that if you suck in all the time air from outside. If you lock the outside inside air flow and run the AC, you get way better results and win humidity wise, CO2 concentration will drop over time, but.. better as to moist anyhow. Salt doesn't work, you can only separate the water if you put heat in again, the salt will re-crystalize.. but then just run a dehumidifier, last thing you want during summer is more heat. My flower tent is more or less shut down since mid December, not fighting the humidity and heat.. if I have enough solar power up to run the AC free during sun time, I might grow again in summer.. March I put things back up.. and simply avoid the crazy times.

Show me which pen you got, there's a difference between EC and PPM. If you had an EC of 5000 you'd basically be feeding a brick of salt with no water We favor EC over PPM, so if you can, keep your records in EC. With TA Tripart, you usually want to be around 1.6 EC when growing, and maybe push to 2.0 EC when hitting flower. I see you're halfway through flower, so 2.0 would be where you want to be.

Purchase mine, rent it out, and now there is Wes Kaap Trimbag rentals Used 1nc seriously, first come first serve

The Cannabis Lords continue to test me with the Gorilla Zkittlez I went into the flower tent for a good bit and wiped any spots of PWM with a paper towel and a mixture of 1 parts milk and 3 parts water, both the tops and bottoms of any affected leaves. I am 95% sure I've gotten the worst of it. Then guess who I find chilling under some leaves, some fokin thrips babies having a lekker chow. It was one of few leaves that had them, so it's early. I then gave all the Gorilla Zkittlez a misting of Spinosad, tops and bottoms of the plants, while they are still in early flower. That should execute the pests for the most part. Then I turn around, and not a single care is being given by any of the ZxP. They are all just styling, chilling, asking howzit. No mildew, no pests. I'm starting to think some plants are not as equal as others Lesson of the story, check your plants, fix things early.

The feed charts are mainly to ensure the correct NER (Nutrient Element Ratio) is followed, for each stage of growth. They can be diluted as you see fit so long as the ratios remain correct. I also mix in 20l containers, but work out the percentages before, so let’s say it indicates 2,4ml of Bloom per litre, and you want to run a 70% strength. 0.7 x 2,4 x 20l = 33.6ml per 20l as opposed to 48ml at full dosage. The order in which you add them is important. The chart suggests Gro then Micro then Bloom. It’s better to go Micro then gro then Bloom. Finally a note on EC. TA can’t know the base EC of every place in the world, or indeed who will be using RO water for that matter. So they base their recommended EC range (bottom of each column in the chart) on an average tap water range EC (I think around 0,3). This added to their 100% NER strength gives the recommended max /min EC on the chart. Here in SA we have pretty low EC in the tap water, generally. Mine is around 0,1. For me this means that even if I feed at 100% Nute strength, I still don’t achieve or surpass the max EC, sometimes not even the minimum. This leaves me with some wiggle room for adding supplements as a preventative or corrective measure, for eg CalMag, Chelated Calcium, Silica, Biodyne, Epsom salts and bloom boosters. Finally, and anybody please correct me if I’m wrong, EC is a measure of Electrical Conductivity in a solution, typically measuring salts content and cannot measure other non-electrically conductive elements in the water. This is why it is important to know what you’re dealing with media-wise, since your media (“soil”) can actually contain a lot of undetectable stuff which in excessive amounts can be detrimental to a cannabis plant. So mix in the right order, mix conservatively, never exceed the max EC on the chart. And don’t be forgetting pH. It’s as important if not more so than anything else. And keep an eye on you reservoir / bucket. pH can creep up over a few days and the next thing you know it’s way way over. Don’t think of pH as a linear scale. It’s an exponential / logarithmic scale. So pH 6 vs pH 7 is not “just” one point up. Water with a pH of 6 is 10X more acidic than water with pH of 7 [emoji43][emoji43][emoji94]. Accuracy of pH is critical.

@Dookie69has first option till tomorrow morning. Then you can have second.

Best videos available and best advice on usage

Mr @WeskushI'll even pack those goodies you asked for in the bag

these plants may have been stunted, from the previous photo it's clear to see that they where a bit hungry, it took them a few days to settle into the soil, but they got their roots in now and it seems growth has finally kicked in. better colour on all the leaves aswell. I am happy one plant in this run has changed, got a Chernobyl cutting, TGA genetics, it will be replacing the Deluxe Sugarcane for this run as I have some DS buds in jars and another 3 plants in flower so I will have a load of DS for a while, keeping a mother around for sure haven't smoked Chernobyl, have only heard good things making me think about the Hitler discussion from a while back anyway, here they are, only the 5 in the bigger pots

Today I am busy prepping the AutoPots for the KmintZ. While I was in the flower tent I noticed some PWM developing on some leaves of the Gorilla Zkittlez. It has literally been so long since I've had PWM that it caught me by some surprise. No PWM on the ZxP, which to me was initially strange because the ZxP is much bushier and to me it has better conditions to harbor PWM more easily, but then again the ZxP has never had PWM itself. It's a bit concerning for the Gorilla Zkittlez, I've removed any leaves that has any PWM but I'll probably give it another run through tonight.

That is a top tip for sure. I am about to try quick-disconnects (fuel line disconnects) from the motorcycle industry, in order to remove / add trays in the grow space.

Day 2 of 12/12 (gg4) hope there’s no gay sign on her? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys Hope you are well I need some advice please. I recently bought a EC/PPM meter to check and see if I have issues. So I feed with TA Tri-part and am roughly half way through flower I make up a nutrient solution in a 20L water drum. I use tap water, add nutrients according to the dosage on the feed chart, PH balance to roughly 5.8/5.9 - 6.0 (growing in Atami Coco) I took a sample of the nutrient solution and obtained a reading of roughly 1500 EC. I watered to run off (4 different strains ) and tested each sample I collected. I rinsed syringe, sample cup and meter off with tap water between readings My EC readings on all the strains are huge: Input EC Sativa 1200 Choc Haze 5000 Input EC Sativa 1200 Grape Cookies 4090 Input EC Indica 1500 Bushfire OG 8248 Input Indica 1500 DBN Cookie Kush 5000 I haven’t calibrated the EC meter yet but did check the water before nutrients. Reading was 130 EC. I check this on 2 different occasions and that figure seemed constant so don’t know if the EC meter is that far out. Do you think this is a calibration problem or are my plants getting too much nutes? Please help, I really wanted to have a relatively hassle free grow, this time around Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

High guys! I am curious to know if these plants are looking proper for 3 weeks old? My grow consists of both Autos X Pp’s. I am cultivating in coco mixed with orgalux living soil. I give them 18/6 light and started nutes about a week ago. I feed twice in a week (1/4 of prescribed dosage) And I run two extraction fans as it gets really hot here sometimes. With both on, I maintain somewhere around 24 degrees in the day and about 22 degrees at night. I have my 110w led lights 22 inches away from the plants. Any input will be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now thats an offer a man can't refuse haha. Will pm you bro

LOL! I spotted that as well. Smoked it last night. Looks great, smells great... the rest... so so.

I can't find anyone renting trimmers online. I'm in Wes Kaap if anyone knows of anyone?

Thanks bud I have always just followed the TA (prior to that GH) feeding chart. I did a big flush with Florakleen and added more water to the mix to reduce strength. Seems like you guys don’t feed to max dosages? I will adjust strength going forward Plants seemed ok but didn’t seem to be bulking up. I will monitor closely Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is my plan, just need to get off my ass and find time to turn my trim into some hash. Got everything, just need the time to do it now. Haha Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

That runoff does appear to be very high. Do your plants appear to displaying any lockout / nute burn / stunting? If your concerned about it I would flush each pot with 3 x it’s capacity in TA flash clean then after a day or so feed at 70% of the recommended dosage plus add some Calcium or Cal Mag to keep the Coco happy. After that try to be conservative with nutes, I never run my plants past 80% strength, and my EC usually sits around 1400. (This is in flower, including any other supplements like Silica or whatever) (I run Auto’s, they require lower EC apparently) As far as calibrating the EC, you can’t calibrate as such, but you can compare to a know standard liquid to see if it’s in spec or not.

Is anything wrong with my setup? Is it advisable to run two extraction fans? Because I am. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m trying my hand at Hash (cold water and bags) later this week. I’ll hopefully be able to use the trim from the trim bag for hash.

I own one, and used it once Love it, but my plants are small, and not enough to use in the bag to get a good working, and therefore still hand trim. But a large amount, and your sorted out. It hardly does much more damage than anything else, but yeah you'll have some waste. Dry buds, properly dry, are best. I'm also selling mine, if you interested. The cheaper one, is made local, and not the same in my opinion.

Damn hair particle! but joh! those trichs and colours look good

The Trim Bag works well, but there is a learning curve! As @CreX said, too wet and it does not do much. Too dry and it works, but you need to make sure you do not overtumble it when it is very dry. You actually want the bud to be pretty dry and then rehydrate it afterwards. I find this works the best. If there is too little bud in the trimbag, it does not work as well. If there is too much in, then also it does not work as well. The number of "tumbled" or "rotations" will also determine how your bud ends up looking. Tumble it a lot and you start to take away the outer of the bud and you get a more rounded looking bud - some pics on Instagram have this look to them. Generally this leads to les trimming and more just neatening up and getting rid of some crowfeet. Less tumbles can still remove A LOT of trim and leaf, however leave you with a bit more to trim by hand but will give you more of a hand trimmed look with a lot less effort. Trichomes do not take as much of a knock when done this way. So there is a learning curve, once you get the hang of it - it works well and can save you a lot of time. I doubt you will notice any difference in terps of potency when using the trimbag compared to a hand trim... unless you really go overboard and start tumbling your bud into a powder. lol

Thanks for the info, that’s why this forum rocks. I think I’ll give it a go. I’ll probably be loading 150g per tumble, as I like to keep each plant in its own bottle. Some of the nugs are quite small, but most are fairly dense. It’s going to save me a shed load of time….

Quick update, been very busy. Total veg time 3 weeks today since transplant, flipping to flower on Wednesday, sherbet crasher doing much better, blumats are on, one application of bb so far

Tip #1: If you plan on LST or any other process that required tethering to the pot, drill a series of holes along the outer rim of the pot. Do this before you fill the pot! I considered drilling right through to the inner pot but this would cause leaks if the water were to reach those points before subsiding. Tip #2: If you plan on using an air dome in the pot, fix a small cable tie in one of the corner holes to hold the air line nice and snug to the pot. This reduces the chances it getting accidentally caught and pulled out of the air dome, it can’t be reattached without emptying the whole pot which will surely cause the plant some super-stress.

The KmintZ are looking powerful. Shouldn't be too long now before I put them into the flower tent. I am keeping the majority of the lower branches for now in preparation to take clones to line them up for the next one.

Another one...

These ladies got their veg on nicely. Could probably hear them growing...haha. Cleaned up under the skirts and removed the bottom 2 nodes.(got some big clones) Topdressed with Guano pellets and a sprinkling of bonemeal. Noticed some preflower action happening here and there, so the game is afoot. Need to do a follow up biogrow inseticide spray, but the weather looks like rain. Luckily haven't had any serious pest issues yet, but ipm is ipm.