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Wedding Cake clones have rooted nicely. It might have taken a month, but they look strong and healthy. They have been transplanted into small pots to continue rooting, pics below. I currently have the KmintZ in the flowering tent I can still clip some clones from, then I have two ZxP and one Gorilla Zkittlez mothers to also clip some clones from. These mothers were not planned, they were extra clones that I just shaped into mother plants that I could clip later just in case. I am trying to start only taking clones from plants that are in the flowering tent just before they go into preflower so I can try free up some space in the veg tent. So the line-up from after the KmintZ harvest will be Wedding Cake -> ZxP -> Gorilla Zkittlez -> KmintZ -> ? After another round of KmintZ I am hoping to maybe have a fresh pack of seeds of something something.

Yes the usual piping is assumed, I should have mentioned that. It’s just an interesting “hypothetical” option, for example if you build a greenhouse over a set of steps, or a terrace, that you can use one reservoir to feed a number of autopots on different levels.

Multilevel Autopot Trays? I read somewhere that so long as all the trays are lower than the res, that a multilevel arrangement is possible, and very helpful for raising shorter plants to canopy level… Anyone tried this? Excuse the crude drawing.

I'm not sure why one would do this apart from maybe space considerations, but there is a fault in the drawing, I don't think you will ever be able to pipe through a tray/aquavalve without some serious thinking and alterations to the trays/aquavalve. You really can only go from reservoir to tray, and not from reservoir to a tray, and thorugh that tray to another tray. I really don't see that hapenning based on how the aquavalve system works. But if you're using the autopots as per normal and certain rows of trays are lower than others, but all still remain lower than the reservoir, the system will work.

KmintZ are in! There are four KmintZ and two supporting ZxP. They looking fresh and ready for their flowering journey. I gave them all a nice douse of spinosad before going in just as a preventative to the latest little stint of thrips, of which I saw none of when checking tonight. I got a little fright when looking for more PWM, but it turns out it was just dry milk on the leaves that I rubbed yesterday. Lol me. Otherwise, I haven't spotted any more PWM so hopefully that has been sorted as well. Flower tent looking skits. KmintZ ZxP Gorilla Zkittlez

I went ahead and took a dozen clones off of the one ZxP mother I had sitting around. I went back to the diary and saw the Wedding Cake clones rooted in exactly 3 weeks. I can work with that timeframe, so we will see now how these ZxP do. I'm starting to take clones from much more developed mothers/plants and keeping a bit more foliage than I usually do. I also give the Jiffies a young squeeze so the stems aren't just sitting in stagnant water within the JIffies. It seems to have worked nicely with the WC clones.

Ok alright, I understand the layout now. Definitely go for it if it means you can comfortably have more plants at once

I’ll give it a shot, I’m about to germinate so my pots are all empty.

I think @Ill_Evan is right, in theory aslong as the res is higher than the pots it should work. If anyone is up for trying it that would be good info for anyone trying to create more space in their grow room

Wow, I found it.. I didn't have a good technical description of the Silting step until today. Here it is in one paragraph.. Enzymatic Degumming of Rice Bran Oil Using Different Commercial Phospholipases and Their Cocktails "Phospholipids are classified according to their degree of hydration (hydratable and non-hydratable). Hydratable phospholipids (HPL) become insoluble in oil in the presence of water and are easily separated by centrifugation. Most non-hydratable phospholipids (NHPL) are complexed with calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and iron (Fe) salts, and to be removed, they need the addition of a chelating agent (citric acid or EDTA) to sequester metal ions, allowing their precipitation and separation by centrifugation [5,6]." This is how Silting is different than Winterization. Silting knocks out Phospholipids with water and acid. Winterization freezes and crystalizes the waxes which then settle out. Both are needed, one doesn't replace the other. Silting needs deeper study for optimization. I'm not using heat, but it is used in the industrial scale. The optimal amount of water & acid need to be deduced. Optimal residence times need to be deduced. The end product has to be pH neutral. If you replace club soda with Body Armor pH9.5, it affects the cannabinoids.. Whole new rabbit hole.. One really interesting that can be done, take the pH to 7 and let sit for 6 hours. A whole new science is invoked - Isoelectric Focusing, aka IEF. Proteins precipitate at pH 7. The filter pads will go light green@1hr to almost black@12hrs. Its safe to assume the proteins are denatured (as a result of 90%+ alcohol wash). The proteins expose a non-polar side and bond to oil. So i think that is an emulsion. Its a protein rich dark green creamy emulsion and has a kick! It maybe a good base for a suave. Enough for now..

And the winner is...

I use a 5-6cm layer of Leca. I like the fact that it is a wick for the Coco, and it offers an aeration gap which I’m certain stops the pot from “sitting in water all the time”. I’ve started recycling it for future grows, so it’s cost reduces par grow. The roots love it, I find those fine white roots favouring the airdome and the Leca zone.

Autopots and trays prepped and ready! Here is also a picture of how the roots grow into the airdomes for that good oxygen injection straight into the plant veins. I like to just about cover the airdomes with leca pebbles and then fill up with a 60/40 mix of leca pebbles and coco. I find this allows for very easy drainage for the aquavalves to cycle between feed and stop, but also allows for just enough moisture in the medium for the first week where I am still top feeding.