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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/15/2022 in Posts
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A week update, growth is exploding.6 points
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The growers have spoken and we have listened. Dropped the entrance to 25g. You can enter here https://thehighco.co.za/cape-town-cannabis-cup-application/ Will allow a few more entrants to keep the judges fueled. Here's some pics from The Continental Cannabis Cup a couple of years ago that inspired this event.6 points
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High all. Glad to confirm that we already have several sponsors on board. One of which is Dab Star. Entries are also going well:)6 points
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The ZxP and Gorilla Zkittlez are both midway through flower. Looking at how the plants have grown so far, I probably could have removed a few more branches from the bottom, and I could have raised the net a bit more. Jirre you think you account for it and you actually didn't. At least I don't have to tie up every branch to stop them flopping around. Speaking of bottom branches, the KmintZ plants have got some fat foliage at the bottom. They will come very handy when it comes time to take some clones. I think I will do that in the new week. Veg tent also looking power. I've got some straggler ZxP clones from like late December/early January in one propagator, and the freshly cut ZxP from yesterday in the other. I might actually chuck the stragglers now that I think about it. Then I've got the six Wedding Cake seedlings, six ZxP seedlings, another two ZxP mothers, and one more Gorilla Zkittlez mother. El Plan is the ZxP and WC seedlings will replace the ZxP and Gorilla Zkittlez currently flowering, then I will take KmintZ clones next week, then Gorilla Zkittlez clones from the one mother the week after that, then ZxP from the older mother of the two a week after that. This should spread out the harvests between a week each come harvest time. This is my attempt at actually timing this shit right for once. ZxP Gorilla Zkittlez KmintZ + ZxP (2x ZxP at the back) Veg Tent6 points
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Yes we do! No.12 it is. The first one I smoked. Strange how that happens sometimes. All the others were kind of average. A few standouts here and there, but nothing close to no.12 All the other phenos look very similar. No.12 looks completely different. It finished early, has great bag appeal, smells and tastes great and has a fantastic narcotic high.5 points
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Hi there fellow Cannabis growers. I have started a couple of months ago with my 1st attempt to grow these wonderful and beautiful plants for my own use, smoking. Thanks for this platform!2 points
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Dude, this is a grow forum not a Braai versus Barbie que forum.[emoji3][emoji482] Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk2 points
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2 bags. 1st bag for kuire and beer then 2nd bag for kuire and beer. Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk2 points
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It's a strange wonderland of grey area. The entire Constitutional Court judgement in 2018 originated from a Rastafari lawyer who wanted to smoke cannabis and still practice law, but because how the law works, if you defy the law, you technically can't be a lawyer. So on a fundamental principal of privacy, they ruled that people in South Africa may consume cannabis in private. Even so, it is not legal, because they haven't written the laws and regulations yet. But also, it is not illegal, because the relevant laws which previously dictated the illegality of consuming cannabis have been suspended. It is 100% still illegal to sell cannabis though... [did someone say donation?] So insurance, for example, can do whatever their internal policies dictate because nothing has been made concrete yet.2 points
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When attending 420 events one of the most frequent questions I get is "when are you gonna do another D-Day or Amber Cup?" So I grabbed the bull by the horns when an opportunity presented itself. The Cape Town Cannabis Cup will be taking place on Saturday the 26th of March in the heart of The Mother City. This is conveniently on the same weekend as the Cannabis Expo and will make the most of top shelf local and international guests. Am putting a lot of effort and expense into making this a V-High-P experience. Here's the info for tickets, sponsorships and how to enter. https://thehighco.co.za/the-cape-town-cannabis-cup-2022/1 point
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This was the best little guide I could find atm, hopefully it helps When is the Best Time to Harvest Marijuana Buds? | Grow Weed Easy1 point
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Thanks, looking forward to my first harvest. How long do you recon before harvesting? Soooooo freaking excited, cannot wait!1 point
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Welcome! These guys are very helpful when it comes to advice Great forum to be a part of. Let us know if you have any questions1 point
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Hi bud It’s a cheap meter. It only has PPM & EC (Micro Siemens). The website recommends 1600 EC Outflow, so will keep things a bit lower to help the plants out. That runoff water looked like Monster Energy drink! next grow, I will keep a closer eye on the EC values to keep in check1 point
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Very very nice, I would expect to see a lot of bud looking like this now: However there is more to good bud than just looks1 point
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Amazing what shitty coco and some nutes can do [emoji14] Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk1 point
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Thanks so much man… I’m glad to hear that you can see signs at least. Thanks again. Have a good week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Hello guys!!! I am in day 9 of 12/12 on this GG4. Is it too early to tell what sex this plant is? I bought it as feminised but I just want to be sure, as I recently had a male in the tent by accident. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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The actual "grass" doesn't even want to grow properly in that spot... many feet have compacted the soil around the braai Kudo's to that lil' lady for soldiering on. Does she recieve any nutes at all? Or you going 'au-natural'?1 point
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Show me which pen you got, there's a difference between EC and PPM. If you had an EC of 5000 you'd basically be feeding a brick of salt with no water We favor EC over PPM, so if you can, keep your records in EC. With TA Tripart, you usually want to be around 1.6 EC when growing, and maybe push to 2.0 EC when hitting flower. I see you're halfway through flower, so 2.0 would be where you want to be.1 point
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The feed charts are mainly to ensure the correct NER (Nutrient Element Ratio) is followed, for each stage of growth. They can be diluted as you see fit so long as the ratios remain correct. I also mix in 20l containers, but work out the percentages before, so let’s say it indicates 2,4ml of Bloom per litre, and you want to run a 70% strength. 0.7 x 2,4 x 20l = 33.6ml per 20l as opposed to 48ml at full dosage. The order in which you add them is important. The chart suggests Gro then Micro then Bloom. It’s better to go Micro then gro then Bloom. Finally a note on EC. TA can’t know the base EC of every place in the world, or indeed who will be using RO water for that matter. So they base their recommended EC range (bottom of each column in the chart) on an average tap water range EC (I think around 0,3). This added to their 100% NER strength gives the recommended max /min EC on the chart. Here in SA we have pretty low EC in the tap water, generally. Mine is around 0,1. For me this means that even if I feed at 100% Nute strength, I still don’t achieve or surpass the max EC, sometimes not even the minimum. This leaves me with some wiggle room for adding supplements as a preventative or corrective measure, for eg CalMag, Chelated Calcium, Silica, Biodyne, Epsom salts and bloom boosters. Finally, and anybody please correct me if I’m wrong, EC is a measure of Electrical Conductivity in a solution, typically measuring salts content and cannot measure other non-electrically conductive elements in the water. This is why it is important to know what you’re dealing with media-wise, since your media (“soil”) can actually contain a lot of undetectable stuff which in excessive amounts can be detrimental to a cannabis plant. So mix in the right order, mix conservatively, never exceed the max EC on the chart. And don’t be forgetting pH. It’s as important if not more so than anything else. And keep an eye on you reservoir / bucket. pH can creep up over a few days and the next thing you know it’s way way over. Don’t think of pH as a linear scale. It’s an exponential / logarithmic scale. So pH 6 vs pH 7 is not “just” one point up. Water with a pH of 6 is 10X more acidic than water with pH of 7 [emoji43][emoji43][emoji94]. Accuracy of pH is critical.1 point
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Thanks for that, I will update at some point!. Photo shows last setup. 6x250w panels. Batteries were 2v with tons of storage. Great system but realise now I need much more.1 point
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A bit of a TLDR, so did not read every post but will try answer all questions. I have looked into a solar setup myself and have had friends who have gone ahead with solar setups - if you use a lot of power it makes sense to go this route. Firstly, 5KW inverter with 2.2KW of panels is silly, you generally want to try and aim for more panels than the inverter is rated for as the panels efficiency will decrease with time and are the limiting factor as to how much power you can pull from the sun. The weather varies, some days there will be more cloud coverage and power production starts when the sun rises but you won't be generating max power early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the sun starts to set - this is where the additional panels will start to shine and help you maximize how much power you are able to produce throughout the light cycle of the day - as you seem to be aware, winter things change as well and there are less hours of light. So without a doubt, look at adding more panels. Especially if you want to run the whole house and subsidise the grow when the sun is shining. Also make sure that 5KW is sufficient for your house, draw too much and the inverter will trip - your whole house is then without power until you turn it on again. Geyser, kettle, stove, grow lights, fans, aircon, dishwasher, washing machine, tumble dryer TV etc. etc. It can all add up quickly You may need to change your habits in terms of how you use electricity and what appliances you have on at the same time in order to make the 5KW inverter work. This is something only you'd be able to work out as you know what appliances you use and when you use them. Now onto the question of your grow equipment and the draw and the battery. Let's start with the grow equipment, for a 1.2m x 2.4m tent you'd like to aim for 4x 240W Quantum Boards which comes to just under 1KW of power (let's round up to 1KW take the efficiency of the driver into account). You will need to have fans to circulate the air, as well as for extraction and possibly intake as well. 100W to 200W is a reasonable estimation, we'll go with 200W to be on the safe side. Now depending on your grow, there may be additional equipment such as water pumps for automatic watering (often not a high amount of power), aircon, dehumidifier - these need to be taken into account if you are running them. However we can consider a base load of 1.2KW when your tent is running at full power with all fans. So that means 1.2KW (1200W) which is being drawn by your tent per hour. 1.2KWH in other words or 1.2 units per hour. During veg you can dim the lights down to around 400w in the tent and should be fine, in flower you will be pushing the full 1KW of power to the lights if you have the tent full of plants. So for veg, 600W per hour with fans. For flower, 1200W per hour with fans. When lights are off, 200W per hour for just the fans. Lithium battery is 100% the way you want to go, they generally come with a 10 year+ warranty and are able to be discharged more than your typical gel / deep cycle batteries. What is meant by discharge (also known as depth of discharge), well, the 5KW battery is basically a 105ah battery at 48v (105ah x 48v = 5040W (5KW) ). We can use the 5000W figure here to explain DoD (Depth of Discharge): A 10% DoD means the battery has been drained by 10%. So 5000 - 10% = 4500W of charge remaining in the battery. 50% DoD = 2500W remaining in the battery. 80% DoD = 1000W of power remaining in the battery. Your typical AGM / deep cycle batteries can be discharged to around 50% at most and even then they have far fewer cycles which they can handle (a decent deep cycle AGM type battery can handle around 600 cycles). A Lithium battery can be discharged past 50% safely, unlike your AGM / gel / deep cycle type of batteries which can take serious, permanent damage if discharged past 50%. Most Lithium batteries for solar use are able to be safely discharged to anywhere from 85% to 100% - keeping in mind that the further you discharge it, the fewer cycles you will get. As an example, a Lithium battery may be good for 6000 cycles at 80% DoD but only 3500 cycles at 100% DoD. These are rather accurate figures for Lithium batteries as well, I think Hubble and/or Pylontech batteries offer figures similar to the above. As you can see, 6000 cycles is 10 times more usage out of the Lithium battery compared to an AGM style battery with 600 cycles. Also you are able to get 80% discharge out of the Lithium battery (4000W) compared to 50% discharge out of the AGM battery (2500W). Another figure to briefly touch on is the constant discharge rate, not all batteries are able to safely provide the required current for an extended period of time. So you may require multiple AGM batteries in order to safely allow the 5KW inverter to draw 5KW of power from the batteries. You get Lithium batteries where a single battery is able to provide sufficient power to max out a 5KW inverter - one thing to keep in mind when looking at buying batteries for your inverter (or a single battery). So now to the final part of your question, how long will the battery be able to run your grow setup for. Well, I have done the basic maths already so we know that with lights during veg you are drawing 600W of power roughly (per hour) and the battery has a total capacity of 5000W (let's say you want to only discharge to 80% to help prolong battery life, or to keep some power spare incase of load shedding / emergencies). That leaves us with 4000W of power to draw from the battery. 4000W / 600W = 6.66 hours (Around 6 hours and 38 minutes I think) In flower, a very different story. Literally half as the draw is 1200W. 4000W / 1200W = 3.33 hours (Around 3 hours and 23 minutes I think) The above calculations do not take into account whatever else is running and drawing power in the house. If your geyser turns on and it is a 3KW geyser, that is 3000W it can use within an hour and will almost drain the battery quickly, almost to the full 80% DoD within an hour. Fridges & freezers cycles on and off multiple times throughout the day, there will often be basics running such as the fridge / freezer, some lights, router for internet etc. These are often small amounts of power being drawn but it is still there and needs to be taken into consideration. The biggest benefit with solar is being able to run off the panels during the day when the sun is shining and this is where the biggest cost savings will come in. The battery is nice to have, but running a grow off batteries for an extended period of time is stupidly expensive for initial costs (around R25k for a 100ah Lithium battery). When the sun goes down, it makes more sense to switch over to Eskom's grid and keep the battery for load shedding or emergency use and during the day when there is a bit of cloud coverage. If you need to be off grid, the cheaper way would be to have a generator tied to the inverter as opposed to buying multiple batteries. However when it comes to running costs - over a long enough period of time the generator may work out more expensive and it has it's drawbacks too - requires fuel, isn't good for the environment with the emissions, require services & maintenance and it is noisy. However the initial cost of a generator is far cheaper than multiple batteries.1 point
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