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Yes this is also a luxury home growers and commercial growers who take advantage of retaining a symbiosis in the soil can achieve, because at the end of some people need to achieve better yields so if you can have the best of both why not. My growing approach remains having the huge majority of nutrients come from organic sources. And then on my next soil test on my bed, which is in totes now, I will be adding sulphates for micro nutrients. also been thinking about a good source of silica as foliar for seedling stages only. But we will see

yeah, this is true! if you know to keep adding microbes and not rely only on salts as feed in organic situations and keep adding organic compounds to keep the microbes alive and create that prolific symbiosis, you'll be fine. the salts can basically just act as "addatives" when growing in a pot and in the earth is also a big difference. I worked on many different farms, 2 biodynamic farms, even they use salt nutes, because it's still natural when you use it in amounts the soil can still break down. all the synthetic nutes we have on the shelves all come from the earth anyway, they're just concentrated and combined in unnatural combinations. when growing in a pot, the amount that can cause harm is significantly less, because the microbiome inside a pot is not nearly that of which is in the earth and is harmed or disrupted much easier, but for people with a background in agriculture and mycology, with a quite comprehensive understanding of how microbes operate, it's easy to draw a picture. why I moved away from salts completely is because I have a bigger problem with how they source these compounds, the production of the compounds and the complete dismay of organic growing, because of these products. we've all seen the indoor FMCG farms, growing masses of vegetables that look like they where 3D printed, to feed the already over populated planet, essentially trying to solve a problem by creating a bigger problem. now I just stick to stricktly organic and the "less is more" approach

Here’s the babies, there’s a tall and a short one by the looks of it. please can I have a general consensus of which one should be the control, the plant I will grow exactly how I usually grow no chemicals, and the other with the bloom nutes? control will be (different soil) in my very old, freshly Re-amended soil. thanks and always appreciate the feedback

Howzit bro, yeah I’ll probably let the soil sit for 2 weeks, but this is such a mild recipe that I reckon you could get away will 1 week to be very honest, the availability of nutrient when in a topdress scenario is much higher as the topdress goes into the most active area. Yeah I’ve also tried to fix calmag deficiencies with dolomite topdress and didn’t immediately see good results, I fried some plants and then others snapped back and finished reasonably. I needed a decent source of calcium in the medium because I’m not adding any liquid calcium to supplement the feed. So we will see how it goes but I think it will be okay, just want to see how the soil reacts to the chemicals

excited to see how this turns out! how long you cooking the medium before using? I am very careful with dolomite these days, luckily I use it for the mushrooms aswell so always have some on hand. Having it on hand turned out to be both a blessing and a curse lol long long time ago I saw early signs of CaMg deficiency, so I thought the dolomite will work perfect as it's organic and a source of CaMg. I topdressed each plant with 40g of dolomite, the plants reacted rather quickly for an organic situation, took about 3 to 5 days for all plants to look right, but then just as quick as my problem was solved the pendulum kept swinging and another 3 days later I had severe toxicity/lockout. this was before I had a ph or ppm pen, so I never tested if it was a ph swing causing lockout, which is very possible with dolomite, or a ppm problem. I see you got 4 different Ca sources in there. Calcitic Lime, Gypsum, Bonemeal and Dolomite, you used quite little of each so hopefully you don't run into the same problem I did. also a whole different scenario when you mix it into the medium and you know what you doing. I clearly did not

Hello all you growers of different shapes and sizes I will be embarking on the most unusual and exciting journey, just to show you guys i'm not scared to take a crack at crystals. May not smoke it all, but this is for what the plant will look like given the chance to be grown in peat moss. Caution, I may need a bit of help, now I know this is a long shot, but I'm asking nicely and all in the cause of information sharing and votes on what would work best? You would have much control of what Inputs go where. So I've got 2 plants I think will be up to the task. 2 feminized Sugar Widow @Totemic 1 as a Control, and 1 as the EXPERIMENT! The Substrate - Lithuanian Peat Moss How do I prepare this soil for the nutes? - I need some base of nutrients for buffering correct? I was thinking just adding some dolomite lime, maybe some calcitic lime? Then I will have to PH im sure, jeezz what have I got myself into. Okay I'm surely not going to take the inert salt only route? - Then PPM for each feed, can I just let some nutrient batch sit and water as and when? - My old school pens need batteries. - The amount of perlite that should be added? - The pots will be 10l size so I might just add other 10l pot for experiment sake - Hard pass on the inert stuff, I will be using molasses, microbes, kelpak, aminos, and feed the chems every other day. Maybe its not the best test but what I want to do is have whatever is missing added the way I know how, and fill in the majority of the nutrients needed during flower with this bottle of General Hydroponics FloroCoco, I know, lol i'm sure this thing is meant for Coco. Haha we will see. Because I am completely new to this, there is a big possibly of this thing going belly up super duper fast, but this also I do not care about All your constructive input would be much appreciated. literally a clean slate to start and many many possible ways to approach the soil, the grow and the feed.

I’m really not sure bud, I think these are just a cross of the white widow that I grew and the sugarcane that I also grew, so each plant could lean on either side quite heavily I imagine. it’s just for reference per say, one is already looking like on the taller side

Seeds bud, ya they are going to be different no matter what, or maybe surprise us and grow pretty similar

are they different phenos or same cut? if they are clones, I vote the small one in your known soil and the bigger one in the test soil? if they're different phenos I don't think it matters too much, because structure and expressions will differ even if everything is on point.

This is conventional agriculture, people hate that word but, with soil, farmers will do anything to up the numbers, not all but you can imagine what I’m saying, and how far they or their fathers and their fathers were willing to go with excessive amounts of salt / pesticides / Herbicides led them to where they are today and many times the story is dire, the soil will not function probably if salts are used in excess for prolonged periods of time, I will definitely be throwing this soil away once the grow is done, and not in my garden lol, they going for a drive But for purposes of the machine, this angle in my view is more quantity, less quality.

My very first indoor grow was FF green bag with hydroponics A,B,MKP nutrients. I called it beginners luck, because it turned out great, but literally everyone and their aunties soiled themselves when they heard I was mixing organics with synthetics. like that was the worst thing a grower could ever do. Everyone had their reasons, random people would come out the boendoes standing behind the seasoned growers, calling me out for defending what I was doing. I stated it was my first real indoor grow, so people jumped to the conclusion that I knew nothing about anything plant related quite a few people didn't like the fact that I didn't wana listen to their seasoned advice, but yeah this is how we learn who to take advice from These days companies like GreenHouse Feeding and quite a few others actually make nutrient lines that combine the two styles of growing and it seems to be much more accepted these days. As time goes on we will se more and more of this. Lekker fingers crossed for no losses and better results than anticipated!! with a ph and ppm pen, you really can't go wrong. run off tests and slurry tests have saved my crop quite a couple times.

that's spot on for argument sake, you'll have better results vegging a plant under a flower light than you would when flowering a plant under a veg light.

Ok thanks for all your input, I’ll take special consideration when implementing Implementation is done no time to waste, these seedlings are going to need a home in the next week or so. I’ve gone for a very simple light mix, very similar to that of Freedom Farms Formula 1 🏎 so this is like Formula 3 beep beep! Lithuanian Peat moss 9l Worm Casting 7l Perlite 9l Basalt rock dust 1/4 cup Calcitic lime 1/8 cup Gypsum 1/4 cup Bonemeal 1/4 cup Seedgrain malt blend 1/4 cup Dolomite 1/16 cup Giving the soil no more than 2 weeks as stated before These plants are going to repot and then 1-2 weeks and FLOWER! Have a flippin Kwaai weekend

Hey guys The number of entries in our past few SOTM's have been disappointing... so perhaps we should have a look at running our Plant Of The Month competition again. How do you guys feel about that? Or perhaps something entirely different? Please let me know with your vote in the poll or please reply to this thread with your comments and/or suggestions. The poll options are as follows: I'm keen for a POTM, I have plants going at the moment and will enter the March POTM I would prefer we continue with SOTM I would prefer we continue with SOTM but would like the management of the competitions to be more structured. I'd like something something completely different The standard of prizes at the moment is not enough motivation for me to enter I'm of course fully conscious of the fact that at times my running of the comp has been far short of professional. With late winner announcements etc. If this puts you off entering comps please do let me know as well and I will do my best to find a way to run these comps smoother Cheers

do you know how stable the genetic is? If it's f2 they may have a bit of a difference in end weight when looking at it like that, otherwise you can only look at overall health and general reaction to the unknown media. if they're only f1 or 2 I would try to look at each plant individually, but if they're f3 or 4 they have higher chances of growing more similar.

Regarding the earthing issue. Those cobs are supposed to go into an enclosure and is covered with a lens. But in my case the terminals were covered with high heat silicone. But when one of them short circuited I imagine the short is on the inside of the cob somewhere. I took the cob off of the frame and the back of the cob which is alu has conductivity with the live. So maybe the Vslot alu profile didn't dissipate enough heat leaving the cob to cook it self on the inside.

No its a used unit so I would not be able to choose, the guy is selling it on FB market place, he said that he has a grow shop and from time to time have grow lights. I also think the one he has may be an older version or something because the picture how has shown me does not quite match the pictures in the link I sent but very similar and did say its a 240watt. But if I could choose It would be the lower spectrum. Vegging seems easy and can easily be supplemented with most lights. But flowering seems a bit more specific to the lower range.?, what you say ?

Day 20 of flowering. Does it look like I’m winning? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Smelly Joe I'm actually liking the BB x HC more if I'm being honest, so far the BB x HC and the Tortoni are the best smelling plants