Leaderboard

Pollination has commenced

Lets skip those ISP's ^^ Friend just went to WebAfrica.. you can't open a ticket without having Whats App installed (not using any facebook products myself) so can't give her support. I tried for an hour on her Whats App to get hold of a technician telling me her login so I can install a proper router, the thingy they send is just junk Try Monday again while she has troubles connecting further as 4 meter from the thingy. Plants ^^ Autos doing what Autos do... today is last day week 7. Tallest plants center and the smaller ones to the outside towards the 4 entries. WW's clear smaller as the rest, top left plants. Have 49% humidity inside right now. I am very happy when this experiment is over.. had every single plant out yesterday to check for any PM and cleaning yellow or dried up leaves... so far so good. My ventilation keeping up so far but it gets crowded ^^ Looking forward to shut down for a bit, need a break, also fly to Europe for a few months August on. Like last year, not planting anything outdoor anyhow. WW's are ahead in flowering. GSC's are the tallest plants so far. Blue Dream the 'weakest' over all, might be temp wise. I reach 28 over day, April even had a few times over 30. The WW's also don't stretch to much and are perfect for such a mass grow. Is what you call a dress friendly plant ^^ WW's should be done in 2-3 weeks. 10 - 11 weeks total. Lets see ^^ I thought the Blue Dream would be the fastest... I was wrong or they do something i never saw.. or weather goes very wet and all ends in a white nightmare I knock on wood, so far so good. Hope I have one more month before the rain starts to go nasty.

I think they are ready Organic Tent™ harvest commences tomorrow!

Don't mix apples and Kiwis ^^ As soon as you use tap water, you run a chemical setup.. they do not drop organics into the water to fluorite it Tap water is chemical feeding and needs to get Ph'ed. You only can skip it on rain water. Never flush soil with tap water.. the chemistry inside the water is mend to kill micro organisms.. not helping your soil to drench it with a weak disinfectant. If you want all the tools needed to run your plants in the right regions.. you need a few tools, not just a pen.. and if you don't get all needed tools, you never get the full answers anyhow. The pen helps you with EC, PPM and Ph.. that give you an idea what you feed.. but not if it is the right stuff you feed. Next you would need a refractometer for your brix numbers to see if you have the right amount sugar in your leaves.. and when you have the right sugar in your leaves, you need a quantum flux meter to give them the right amount of light.. and when all that is in the right region.. you have a very good run. What you feed them.. is a bit key. Does a new grower need all those tools? I wouldn't say no.. but also not yes. Is a question how serious you want to tackle the topic of growing weed. The more professional you want to go, the more tools you need to confirm your learning process. Once you have all in, you don't need those tools anymore. I use the Quantum Flux meter only when I get new lights in to measure and learn the light. I do not use the tool on my old lights.. I know how to hang those for each stage.. and is not that 950 micromole or 1000 do a huge difference. The tools give you a range to run in. So if you Ph every time.. you do nothing wrong.. and if you work with tap water.. you should check, wouldn't do it every day, if I always use the same amounts to mix a batch. If you poor in by hand.. Christ, yes, measure. If you use syringes and measure in ml on 10+ liters of water.. you should end with the same result every time, as long as the guy in the water storage did his job right too. Chemistry is an exact science. My final advice would be this. If you have rain water storage go soil with organic fertilizers. If you only have tap water available, coco or hydro. If you want to go soil with tap water.. you need to Ph, at least even i would. Chemical feeding is just different. In my case I would go hydro with tap water, what i ran in Europe. If you want to grow big.. hydro is the only way to simplify your feeding to max on big scale (10k plants and more). And is my opinion.. what means it counts mainly for me ^^ others have other opinions. I changed from hydro to soil as i had rain water available suddenly.. and somebody with a lot more experience as i have told me to try it. I enjoy the peaceful growing with soil. Use my gadgets not as often as before.. except the refractometer, the leaves still baffle me a bit what color they have compared to sugar content. Strains behave very different. So after 35 years of growing weed... not even close of understanding the plant in full. So please, don't stop giving advice.. i might be the one asking at one stage

I under stand were you are coming from. I only use rain water. Reuse my soil. Never had any issues.

The last time I used my pH pen was to check the pH of my pool. And that was well over a year ago. And before that it hard to remember.

This is the thing, when using rain water it's something specific to your situation. the vast majority of growers, especially new growers, get their water from the tap. with a small amount of those people using 3phase filters, if that. some people bubble their tap water. still not the same as rain water. If you wana make a point of how things work for you, you have to state the things that you do, that can literally flip the whole show on it's head. anyhow, have a blessed sunday!

Absolutely beautiful man. Wow. Really impressed and loooooove the colouration. Please upload a photo of the whole tent (I want to drool over some scrog) and I am sure you will let us know what the final weights are when all done. Well done. Looks tasty

I pH test everything

If you always mix the same amounts together, the result in Ph should be the same, if the producer of the stuff does his job right. So you would need a pen once... till you change again your fertilizer setup. I go with @SkunkPharm... Even i ran into issues with 2 plants out of 94, I do not Ph... those 2 could also just have a genetic defect not be able to handle nutrition transport like the others.. or Ph was off for those 2 pots as I mixed something in while repotting.. or a concentration of substance inside the bag i used for those pots was off (different spots, so not sequence pots, is unlikely). My 2 lockouts didn't teach me a thing... i can just guess why those 2 needed a flush and the rest didn't. Both plants are back to green and get the same mix as the rest.. nothing wrong with them so far. If all plants went lockout.. yes, I would have to dig into the why and what I did wrong.. but 2 out of 94... I just flushed each and didn't really care why. You don't always get answers.. but you can always rescue each plant with a simple remedy.

@SkunkPharm that's pretty cool hope you don't run into the same issue as StonedTrooper in the future! when talking organics, ph it's much less of an issue than ppm, though both can still swing. if you keep using water with a ph of 1 or 10 (something way out) it's unlikely that any soil will maintain ph neutrality over long period of time. especially if you reusing soil. tap water here where I am comes out at 9 sometimes 10 and I have seen my living soil climb till about 8 ph and the plants did not like that. could've avoided it. it's a good thing that you have a couple years of growing behind you. good to know the products you use and what product does what and all that stuff.... but the best of all is having the probes on hand, because not everyone has years of growing behind them and they don't know all the science on day one and having the probes makes it much easier to understand than just "taking someones word for it". when studying this at universities the professor will give you probes to get accurate readings for the main purpose of "not having to take someones word for it" and to not play guessing games. hyrdo / organic. there's no harm in wanting to get the stuff right from day one instead of stressing a bunch of plants just to learn from that anyway. if a professor points to a plant and sais "that's what's going on in there, just take my word for it", I wouldn't go to that class anymore. I've seen quite a few cases on the forum similar to my learning experience where probes would've saved these peoples grows in a jiff. once they know what all the signs look like with no second guessing they can use the probes for their pools too! great device to have!

Third step of training complete! The branches have all been topped past the 4th node and now each plant has 8 specific stems to produce the canopy. On Tuesday I will be feeding from the Autopot reservoir and shortly after that I will switch on the air pump for the airdomes. I am hoping for explosive growth from that point on and to build this canopy as fresh as possible. I will start with one lower net that will roughly be the height of the current plants now and then later on I will add another net, probably a week or two after flipping to flower. No more flops. The goal for this run is to have as flat a canopy as possible, but also slightly bigger plants than what we have going in the Organic Tent™ but also keep the canopy thickness roughly the same. I have found that keeping a canopy of roughly 20cm thick is usually the move as you will limit the amount of tiny tiny popcorn nugs and have a little more light penetration in general for the most lower buds, but at 20cm thickness they pretty much get direct light from the LEDs. Due to the manifold one does not get the fat queen colas as you would with growing a normal xmas tree style, so by attempting to get bigger plants I am hoping to increase the size of the buds slightly even with using the manifold technique. This is also a part of the endeavor to increase per plant yield.

They got a new home yesterday. A bit bigger.

The is definitely 2 phenos of the Bobby’s Widow. One with extremely fat leaves and one that is more white widowy. Now just waiting for the magic to happen.