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Hey guys, so we started growing this lady in January. Outdoors, in a pot with soil, we were giving nutes up till about 3 weeks ago. Seagro. Its a jack herer X All was going well, stacking up nicely etc up till recently.. There seems to be foxtailing & every day the buds seems like they are getting airier, the leaves seem to be dying quicker than usual. Im assuming its not getting enough sun, has anyone else experienced this? would it be best to do an early harvest? Or any tips or ideas on how to supplement it? Trichromes are clear-milky

That plant seems to be trying to finish fading naturally, But also keep in mind that if you're giving a potted plant a N dominant feed during flower you would promote leafy growth. Have seen flowering plants with more leaves than bud due to this. As we get closer to the winter solstice you're going to start seeing funny things as they technically shouldn't be growing/flowering naturally now-limits being pushed and all that. Some of our outdoor girls also showing a bit of foxtailing, later on the plants will want to start revegging, so you'll have to decide how far you want to push them. Some plants might finish flowering, others will want to start revegging, it will be up to you as the grower to recognize the signs and decide if you want to harvest or let the plant reveg.

Sure, it's a learning experience. What you've said above is all I'm going to be doing, pretty much. Well that, basic water PH correction and I also have these two bottles of nutrients, but don't intend to use them or buy anything else unless I need to do it. My biggest concern is heat and light. I'm going to be moving them around for a bit, at least in the beginning to get them in the full sun as often as possible. I don't want to micromanage everything, as a novice grower this would be stupid anyway as I have no XP to back it up. But I'd rather have some basic plan and basic stuff on hand. Besides, it sounds fun to do some of the 'sciency' stuff too, so why not?

usually foxtailing happens cause of too much light, but not in terms of intensity, in terms of hour cycle. stray lights perhaps? outdoor cycle is just a mess these days anyway. growing out doors you kinda have to expect some funny stuff, because as we all know nature doesn't give a single shit what the textbook says. the seasons aren't what they used to be, plants think it's winter then we get a whole week of summer, this may cause them to do funny things like foxtailing or even hermie. very common for females in late flower to push nanners when their cycles get messed up or even just a little stray light.

I would cut the plant down. Looks good, well done

Please bud don't let me put you off getting the tools and having the information, its all learning curves and it will always be helpful, I've just gotten to a stage where the information in my scenario, isnt super helpful. If you using Orgasoilux, Make sure to wet the soil thoroughly before planting. until a bit of runnoff comes out, I would say around 25% watering. No plants in there obviously, then wait till that soil is ready to plant, in about a week or so, shouldn't be like wet wet, but moist-ish, then only water when pots are light light.... GOODLUCK bud!

OOH THE PRESSURE

I opted for the Orgasoilux based on a friend's recommendation. He's an experienced grower and has many friends here in CT that swear by it. Good enough reasoning for me. also it's only R200 for a bag, which covers all 4 plants. For me it was a complete no-brainer to get soil formulated for these plants as opposed to potting soil.

This resonates with me, which is why I have decided to PH the water, for example. It seems like a very simple and cheap thing to do and based on what I've read it's worth giving your plants water within a certain PH range. If there are issues I wouldn't know where to begin the diagnosis or fixing since I have no experience, so in a way this removes some of the guesswork. At least that's how I look at it.

I have a wellpoint, but I don't intend to give my plants that water. I have a very old tank with rainwater, but it's several years old.

I have no doubt, this place being a great resource already. Yes, my intention is to do exactly this. That way, if things go tits up, I can put something up in the sick bay and have some information to back it up. I have read some, but most on here seem to be indoors under much more controlled circumstances. The outdoor ones aren't typically during winter, so I am trying to glean the most appropriate and relevant information to my situation from each diary I've looked at. Otherwise thanks for the all the other information, appreciated! D

Not at all, I appreciate the valuable input! FWIW I have bought this combo Temp, PH and EC pen. Hopefully it does the trick. I had another question which I've been meaning to ask, specifically since these are going to be outdoor plants: What do you do if it rains heavily? There's so much talk about over watering, so presumably when it rains for days on end (happens in CT frequently in winter), are you meant to take them out of the rain? Also, does it typically flush all the nutrients from the soil and means you should replenish it? D

Niiiice No stress man, the brown discoloration you see there is just a basic form of oxidisation the mycelium experiences as it dries out. The cake looks fully colonised but I think the reason it's drying out is because of the SFC... how constant is the 20°C + 90%RH? those are the right conditions to be aiming for, but if it fluctuates a lot it will hinder the growth of the mushroom. the temperatures and humidity has to stay relatively constant for pinning to start. I got some GT pins this morning hard to see how many there are, but they're all over, few bigger ones will be picked by tomorrow this little dude with his even littler bro to the left of him this dude fell over, but they still grow like this, gona make all kinds of funny shapes Anyway, looking at your SFC, I think the way you made it dries out the mycelium too quick resulting in the browning of the mycelium surface. if it's nice and fresh and there's enough RH the mycelium tends to stay fluffy and white. did you soak the cake for 24hrs before birthing her into the SFC? the "hydration" is quite important so the cake doesn't dry out too quick and another thing to retain moisture on the cake is the "dunk and roll" which I see you skipped. So basically what you do, when the cake is fully colonised you fill a big bowl with filtered water, RO / Distilled water works even better. soak the cake by placing a lid or another bowl ontop to ensure the cake is submerged. 24hrs later you bring over a bowl of dry vermiculite, clean out the bag not recycled vermiculite, then just roll the cake in the vermiculite. when you spray/mist the cake the vermiculite will suck up the moisture and release it slowly around the surface of the cake. I don't do cakes at all anymore, but here's an example I got on the internet for you the last point I wanted to make, I hot my SFC off google too, but it didn't make sense to me to use the same style chamber if I am in a lower over all RH area. Infact I actually had a SFC, but it gets used for storage again these days. I found what works better is much fewer holes and smaller ones. I moved over to monotubs, but these can be just as easily used to fruit some cakes. I can spray / mist the tub in the morning and it'll still have droplets of water on the side tonight when I get home. I still fan as often as I can though, fresh air is the golden key to growing mushrooms, so the more fresh air with fresh humidity you can introduce the better and then the more constant those conditions are the better for the mycelium. If everything's 100% in check and still no fruits, only thing it can be is genetics. Like I said long long long time ago on this thread, I got Liquid Cultures online, advertised as spore syringes, had to make a bunch of agar cultures with the LC to clean up the genetics, only after subsectioning like 30 to 50 agar plates I got a clean Psilocybe Cubensis genetic that was ready for growing. if you take a LC syringe and inject it straight into a substrate you most likely will only get a few mushrooms if any. what happens there is like planting 100 cannabis seeds in one pot. you will get a plant, you will get weed, but putting them all together like that isn't fair. you're not giving the genetic a fighting chance when you do that cause now theres 1000 plants competing with eachother. same with liquid culture, theres 1000s of culutures within that culture you got and they all competing with eachother. where as with agar plates it allows you a 2dimentional surface where the cultures can express themself and branch out in different ways and you select and sub section the strongest culture till you get a perfect clean "master culture" they usually just look perfectly round cause it's closer to one dominant genetic in stead of all out of shape because of many different growth types and genetic variations. sorry again for all the reading! I bet it will all be worth it though! Goodluck brother!

small plants are the easiest to overwater in the rain we all learn this the hard way. It's best if you can move them out of the rain into a dry area specialy when they in flower and it's raining for a long time. more because of PM on the plant itself than the rain being too much water in the pot. even a vegging bush if it's real dense you should be more worried about PM if it's too humid for too long. usually plants perk up nicely after the rain and you see all the talk about what magic rain water can be when used with a good living soil. as long as you getting a craft soil with good drainage and the pots you use allow for water to run away freely, you'll be fine. In case you have your pots sitting in trays or something and it pools up it can become a problem, but easily fixed by raising the pots and / or removing the trays. the nutrients, it has to rain quite a lot to flush a only a small bit of nutes out your pot, though it's not impossible. it's a little subjective though, depending on the EC of the soil before the rain. if it's already low or you got a big plant in a small pot that requires a lot of nutes, this all puts you at higher risk of ending up with a few yellow leaves after the rain. if you got good EC you should be fine. but then I have also found some of my pots stay dry outdoors sometimes if it only rains for a day, cause the amount of water is not enough to get through the bush and the amount of water that does make it to the pot is only surface moisture that dries up especially with the 4 seasons in one day we are so blessed with here in the Western Cape except like I said with the small plants, they drown easily if the pot is too big and too wet. I haven't used that a specific PH/EC pen so I have no idea how they are, but we will see once you get it I would say test your well point and all water round the house, find the best stuff for you

@Bay Seeds mixed auto pack. Strawberry Cheesecake, Lemon Larry OG or both will forever be the question.

Day 100 Planted 02/04 10l pot with water and occasional molasses only. The eye, nose and sticky fingers say chop. Phone camera pic looks miles from finished. Microscope says chop ' I'm just the sort of smoke you like '.

Plant fades.. cut is my suggestion too. She is that late, rodelization can easy occur. Seagro is more for veg and even for veg is rather weak. If you get your fertilizer from Builders, next time get some GuanoFlo for flower. Should give a way better result.. you lack P and K with Seagro.

Like would this be a good option and, more importantly, enough for my 4 autos? https://www.takealot.com/plantmatter-s-myco-plantmatter-mycorrhizal-fungi-substrate-250ml/PLID70922347

Any specific version of this product you can recommend? Also, how and when is this applied?

Pardon my ignorance, but what does this do?

Of the pot size? i.e. in my case, with a 10l pot which is filled with approximately 7.5l worth of soil (and some pebbles at the bottom), about 25% of that in water?

Sorry, didn't even show, but this is what my monotubs look like. once fully colonised I place a plastic bag over the surface with minimal breathing on the sides to create a little micro climate / condition of high RH to trigger pinning, once I see pins I take that bag off and the mycelium starts to breathe like crazy pushing loads of fruits! big 5cm whole saw bits used to make 6 x holes near the top of the bin covered them with a small piece of HEPA cloth, but you can use a pantyhose or a old shirt anything that will keep dust and bugs out. with a single row of 8 - 10mm holes about 5cm off the bottom of the bin right around. in this case the layer of substrate I put down will be 5cm deep the whole tub through. as the mycelium breathes it will exhale CO2 (like us humans, they suck in oxygen and let out CO2, so they breathe like us rather than like plants... which I think is pretty cool) the CO2 will condense on the surface of the mucelium and start to fall / move out the row of holes made right above the surface, as the air gets pushed out it will naturally start to suck in through the big filtered holes. the filter holes also helps it from drying out too fast win win before I start fruiting, during colonisation when you need much much much less FAE, I cover the row of holes near the surface with this magical waterproof breathable stretchy plastic surgical tape you can buy at clicks or dischem this stuff!

Ahhh instagram, I do not dabble unfortunately, I got enough scrolling vises for now.

Thanks for letting me do these test grows. You know I'm an addict. Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk

He's playing on Instagram with all the influencers

Round the 100 day mark for the big lady and day 70 for the purple one.

Yo @Naughty.Psychonaut hope all is well brother! I need your input on my current situation please. My pf cake was fully colonized with no signs of contam this time round. Placed it in a sfc with soaked perlite in my room. Avg temp about 20celsius and rh avg 90% in chamber. Misting and fanning minimum 3-4 times/day. Its been 2 weeks and no sign on pinning and cake is turning light brown. Is it contam? Shot in advance brother

Just filled 100 10L pots with FF green bags.. had no issues with pH so far.. even I actually broke the 'biological' rule at the start. Stopped feeding the Silica... as is chemical. Run it without or till TopMax is back. I had 2 plants needing a flush.. they are fine and green again. Not sure what I do with the Silica now... should have used my head before I bought it. For any lockout the plant shows a different sign. What ever pH you have, the plant will show you that and you could diagnose your pH level with those signs.. without using a tool. For that you need to know the signs. When i started 35 years with my first plants, you had the bible (Cannabis Grow Encyclopedia) and that is it. You found more or less all in that huge book.. but searching, reading and pictures made things not over all easy. Next person you could ask are friends, if they also grew, otherwise.. nothing, no help. Today with the internet, if I run into a issue I can't answer, i study what is different and simply look on the internet. You are never the first running into a hemp grow issue.. and loads of people already made a post somewhere about exactly your issue. Finding it is not always easy.. but is out there, trust me. The sites like this also helped to pool some knowledge together, is why I say run a grow diary on your first grow. More then enough people in here to help with the common issues first timers run into. Reading a few of those diaries before you start prepares you rather well. Buy tools when you learned it and want to go deeper into understanding. But first time grower i would still advise, buy a bag of FF Premium Classic, and grow just in that soil with water.. what ever water. Pot up like you should if not an auto and learn growing a plant in the first place is not given to all out there. Winter just makes the outcome look less successful. For somebody to understand the importance of pH... this picture shows you what the plant can absorb in what ranges... and you see why stick to where you should stick

CannaSanta swung by in June dropped a load of stuff along with a few selected phenos will be making mothers for future clones and what not, few strains I'm excited about, some just came with the batch, couldn't say no... not the everyday drop off Pineapple Chunk - Barneys Farm Cherry Pie - Unknown breeder CannaHealthGenetic#21 - CannaHealth Sunset Sherbet - Seed Junkies Peanut Butter Breath - Thug Pug Inzane in the Membrane - Ethos Genetics Zweet Inzanity - Ethos Genetics Grape Diamonds - Ethos Genetics Forbidos - Inhouse Genetics Garlic Sherbet - Inhouse Genetics Platinum Silk - Inhouse Genetics will be selecting from this batch for future monocrops once I start a new batch. will have to do seperate project for breeding, have to work through quite a few seeds and select which of the batch mentioned above gona be used before breeding starts.

Where is the video of you cutting them off, would have made a sick reverse video with you placing the heads back on I'm very jealous, those kops look lekker juicy and dense, big ups brother