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Sup bro, I know the reply is way overdue lol but yes I did receive the light. It was shipped to me quite quickly. I didn't get to use it much as i stopped growing for a while due to personal circumstances. Trying to get back into it slowly now again

Last thing I need to mention, if everything is 100% in check there is still a possibilty of getting no fruits. if it's not a strong master culture it's easy to get it to colonise a substrate, but fruiting is a whole different thing. this is where agar becomes important. once you can clean up cultures it opens a whole world of possibilities!

waoh hahah don't go back to that place for information maybe I shouldn't be so hard, but when I was doing cakes the vermiculite was the game changer for me. Also it's not a said and done thing. vermiculite will help in situations where the cake dries out too quick. and from what I can see this is your situation aswell. if your setup allows the cake not to dry out too quick then the vermiculite will make less of an impact cause there's already enough relative humidity. in my case with the sub, my "cake" is much bigger and I also soak her before fruitng, but it takes a week or two for this big cake to dry out and it doesn't breathe from all sides. as with cakes they are all much smaller and tend to dry out much quicker cause they open on all sides and the SFC is more suited for Amercians and Cannadians where most of the R&D information comes from, but down here in SA we're relatively drier than a lot of other countries in the world so we need to have fruiting chambers that retain moisture a little better. unless you wana mist more friequently.

when using mycos, you just add a teetsy bit, like half a teaspoon. you can water it in with the first watering you do, mix the half a teaspoon with the water and stir nicely. preferebly dechlorinated water for this as the chlorine can hinder the living organisms. or the easiest way I have founf is filling the new pot as you would when transplanting and just add the half teaspoon on the hole you left in the new pot for the small plant to go in. then just lightly mix it with the soil around the hole. as soon as the roots move into the new soil it will form a relationship with the mycos and they will live happily ever after. I also mix some into my "kooking" soil. When I finish a cycle I dump all the soil in a big 100L pot, break down clumps and get rid of big root balls, then reamend with elemental blend and mycos and it stands like that till I am ready to do my next batch 3 months later. I will flip the soil in the pot once or twice, sometimes not at all.

I am using the biocult at the moment, have done some light testing on clones when I repot them with / without the powder. saw quite a bit of difference in the roots. it works!

@Bay Seeds mixed auto pack. Strawberry Cheesecake, Lemon Larry OG or both will forever be the question.

Shot @Naughty.Psychonaut! After colonization i did dunk the block in water for 24h but didn't roll in vermiculite. Read somewhere that it isnt necessary..? My perlite doesn't dry out at all which is weird. So many factors. Gonna just let it roll on and see what happens. Ordered a little something something for shits n giggles from Sporeemporium. Natal Super Strength spore syringe, bulk house substrate(pasturised) and grain spawn kit. Going to try the monotub route. Only need to get a different fruiting tub instead of using the shotgun chamber. Will keep you in the loop of things. Lekker man and appreciate your time

Hi All, Looking to get a new light for my recently purchased tent. I have a 2x4 Mars tent and currently running a ModuGrow 90w + 2x 30 ModuGrow diy boards. Looking to upgrade to a new QB from Meijiu and have been offered a light at a good price I think. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Meijiu-Qb288-Lm301B-288-Board-240W_1600273410022.html?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.117c3e5fUPT0w8 Looking for any input or advice regarding this light, I can get it with shipping for $176 Any concerns or am I over thinking this? lol Kind Regards

YES, YES & YEAH. Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk

Last update, These bag seeds came out OK not too shabby And i'm happy with the lights, the PSU i'm using has some extra capacity to add more. Next time I will try and keep it in control by trimming and training better and will log the progress in a more appropriate section of this forum. Thanks for all the advice. Chapter closed. BTW I may have trimmed it early in fear of running into bud rot issues , because the lower flowers started to develop some fluffy white stuff which came off when i lightly rub it with my fingers.on the sugar leafs.After reading up it wasn't bud rot it was powdery mildew. Seeing 50% of the pistils were amber. Based on that I thought I may as well just take the plunge and start harvesting because I don't own a magnifier. Will be donating the plant to a friend who also recently got into growing, maybe he can re veg it (Practice) with it now to get my hands on a good strain.

Check me out on Instagram if you're interested. Or DM. Correct, sir. Slight correction, my custom led design in a modified frame using China as my ODM.

Welcome back. @MrE builds his own lights.

Last thing. If my current sfc lets too much moisture out too fast, how about i just use my propagator for the bulk substrate grow? Just mist and fan as required. Good idea?Bad idea?

Ja i'm going for week 3 now and still no sign of pinning. Will see. Agar is the next level for sure. Firstly want to see if i can get fruits from spore syringes before i go in all out berzerker! Those colonizing bags which get injected with culture and broken up with bulk substrate looks like the better alternative to the grain jars available here. With the grain jars you can't really shake/break the partly colonized substrate up to speed up the process...or can you? Well at least i have a fresh order on the way and will go monotub style or re-use my sfc but tape up some holes instead. Patience and peace brother

Howzit, sorry for being lazy, I'm sure if I dig I'll find it. What LED is that, isit the mini Chilled?

Day 100 Planted 02/04 10l pot with water and occasional molasses only. The eye, nose and sticky fingers say chop. Phone camera pic looks miles from finished. Microscope says chop ' I'm just the sort of smoke you like '.

Ill let you in on a little bit of a secret, the best version available is gotta be Biocult Mycorrhizal from Hydroponic, it has a few specialized species that I've had my eye on for some time. I have not purchased it yet as I still have my trusty generic granular version from hydroponic. But a little fun fact, apparently people have done some microscope work on how the different grades of mycos spores populated and the powdered forms have the amazingly better hit rates. But why would that come as a surprise, we all know about surface area by now surely. Anyway its not cheap either. there are other more affordable granular version there too.

Ya then poor about 2l of water through the soil, plant some cover crops while you do that. What this will do is lower CEC in the soil, like how @Naughty.Psychonaut explains if the TDS is too high it definitely wont be beneficial to start a plant in that soil. Now we know for a fact that which ever way the inconsistencies fall in Orgasoilux, none of that matters, it will always be Jam packed with nutrient, as it is a super nutrient dense soil. Now when a soil oxides, and has many nutrients, they are more pronounces, because the soil is dry. For seeds and young plants, you want to cushion the initial nutrient blow, by doing what I suggested. There are more advanced steps one can take before plant that make it even more favorable for the roots, like watering with humic and fulvic acids, they are not nutrient dense so don't think about it like food, but more like the master keys in gardening, they allow the chelation of literally hundreds of nutrients, basically enforcing everything to place nice, almost like the cops who direct traffic when the robots are broke. Then also innoculating with Mycorrhizal. This is scientifically proven to be the biggest dollar return investment a farmer can make at initial planting as the benefits are astronomical. As the roots grow a vast colony of beneficial fungi grow with it increasing root growth exponentially. Then even trace minerals can be added, but not with Orgasoilux, too much nutrient there. Just a few to mention

Sorry, didn't even show, but this is what my monotubs look like. once fully colonised I place a plastic bag over the surface with minimal breathing on the sides to create a little micro climate / condition of high RH to trigger pinning, once I see pins I take that bag off and the mycelium starts to breathe like crazy pushing loads of fruits! big 5cm whole saw bits used to make 6 x holes near the top of the bin covered them with a small piece of HEPA cloth, but you can use a pantyhose or a old shirt anything that will keep dust and bugs out. with a single row of 8 - 10mm holes about 5cm off the bottom of the bin right around. in this case the layer of substrate I put down will be 5cm deep the whole tub through. as the mycelium breathes it will exhale CO2 (like us humans, they suck in oxygen and let out CO2, so they breathe like us rather than like plants... which I think is pretty cool) the CO2 will condense on the surface of the mucelium and start to fall / move out the row of holes made right above the surface, as the air gets pushed out it will naturally start to suck in through the big filtered holes. the filter holes also helps it from drying out too fast win win before I start fruiting, during colonisation when you need much much much less FAE, I cover the row of holes near the surface with this magical waterproof breathable stretchy plastic surgical tape you can buy at clicks or dischem this stuff!

Niiiice No stress man, the brown discoloration you see there is just a basic form of oxidisation the mycelium experiences as it dries out. The cake looks fully colonised but I think the reason it's drying out is because of the SFC... how constant is the 20°C + 90%RH? those are the right conditions to be aiming for, but if it fluctuates a lot it will hinder the growth of the mushroom. the temperatures and humidity has to stay relatively constant for pinning to start. I got some GT pins this morning hard to see how many there are, but they're all over, few bigger ones will be picked by tomorrow this little dude with his even littler bro to the left of him this dude fell over, but they still grow like this, gona make all kinds of funny shapes Anyway, looking at your SFC, I think the way you made it dries out the mycelium too quick resulting in the browning of the mycelium surface. if it's nice and fresh and there's enough RH the mycelium tends to stay fluffy and white. did you soak the cake for 24hrs before birthing her into the SFC? the "hydration" is quite important so the cake doesn't dry out too quick and another thing to retain moisture on the cake is the "dunk and roll" which I see you skipped. So basically what you do, when the cake is fully colonised you fill a big bowl with filtered water, RO / Distilled water works even better. soak the cake by placing a lid or another bowl ontop to ensure the cake is submerged. 24hrs later you bring over a bowl of dry vermiculite, clean out the bag not recycled vermiculite, then just roll the cake in the vermiculite. when you spray/mist the cake the vermiculite will suck up the moisture and release it slowly around the surface of the cake. I don't do cakes at all anymore, but here's an example I got on the internet for you the last point I wanted to make, I hot my SFC off google too, but it didn't make sense to me to use the same style chamber if I am in a lower over all RH area. Infact I actually had a SFC, but it gets used for storage again these days. I found what works better is much fewer holes and smaller ones. I moved over to monotubs, but these can be just as easily used to fruit some cakes. I can spray / mist the tub in the morning and it'll still have droplets of water on the side tonight when I get home. I still fan as often as I can though, fresh air is the golden key to growing mushrooms, so the more fresh air with fresh humidity you can introduce the better and then the more constant those conditions are the better for the mycelium. If everything's 100% in check and still no fruits, only thing it can be is genetics. Like I said long long long time ago on this thread, I got Liquid Cultures online, advertised as spore syringes, had to make a bunch of agar cultures with the LC to clean up the genetics, only after subsectioning like 30 to 50 agar plates I got a clean Psilocybe Cubensis genetic that was ready for growing. if you take a LC syringe and inject it straight into a substrate you most likely will only get a few mushrooms if any. what happens there is like planting 100 cannabis seeds in one pot. you will get a plant, you will get weed, but putting them all together like that isn't fair. you're not giving the genetic a fighting chance when you do that cause now theres 1000 plants competing with eachother. same with liquid culture, theres 1000s of culutures within that culture you got and they all competing with eachother. where as with agar plates it allows you a 2dimentional surface where the cultures can express themself and branch out in different ways and you select and sub section the strongest culture till you get a perfect clean "master culture" they usually just look perfectly round cause it's closer to one dominant genetic in stead of all out of shape because of many different growth types and genetic variations. sorry again for all the reading! I bet it will all be worth it though! Goodluck brother!

Hey man i know this was a while back, did you manage to get your light?

Howsit all, Just wanted to say a big thank you to all who responded and provided some very valuable information I ended up going with a KingBrite J series 240w LM301H with UV+IR (https://tinyurl.com/j240wUVIR), yeah I know it was not even part of the options above lol Managed to pick it up for USD185 incl shipping, which worked out to about R2600 when I placed the order. I just felt with the Meijiu boards there was not enough 660nm and UV+IR diodes. The KingBrite has 136pcs 660nm, 8pcs UR and 8pcs IR Will post back when the light arrives in October.

There are manufacturers who stock these boards and local suppliers who stock boards with 660nm and 730nm. Really upto you whether you want to go this route or not. Plain 301b diodes work great too without any additional diodes. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Thanks bro, this got me doing a bit more research last night on 660nm + 730nm From what I gather the 660nm helps boost red for flowering and the 730nm helps wake up or put the plants to sleep faster. 730nm should be used 10/15mins before and after the mains lights switch for the sleep/wake up effect. If 660nm + 730nm is used together then this help with photosynthesis and also reduces flowering times. Please correct me if I am wrong, there is a ton of info out there with so many varying opinions. My issue now is that I cannot get the boards with only 660nm + 730nm If I want the 730nm diodes I will have to go with the original board I posted. This has reduced 660nm diodes: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Meijiu-Qb288-Lm301B-288-Board-240W_1600273410022.html?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.117c3e5fUPT0w8 VS https://meijiu.en.alibaba.com/product/1600204627439-900283355/Meijiu_Daisy_Chain_Lm301b_Lm301h_Veg_Diy_qb288_qb_288_Board_240w_240_watt_Samsung_pcb_pcba_ir_5000k_sf2000_Meiju_Led_Grow_Light.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.12.5a0f621dzVWDWr This is all still so very confusing, never had these issues with HPS LOL

This is just going to boost the red a bit. It would be more beneficial if you were to get additional 660 + 730 diodes. This would boost red and photosynthesis.

Bro! Thank you for this, exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I think they caught me with the marketing tactics lol I am happy to go with the normal boards + 660nm Would have been nice to have, but if its not going to make much difference then would rather get the extra 660nm pieces.

UV from LED is a waste for cannabis (for now at least). IR is often classified as 730nm and not 760nm+ The 660nm + 730nm leads to the Emerson effect Not needed. Can be nice to have if you want though.

Unfortunately, science says that LEDs do not emit UV-B radiation which is beneficial to plants and most living things in moderation, and only output moderate UV-A light which isnt as useful to plants, and absolutely zero UV-C which is the dangerous UV spectrum. UV is best supplied using additional supplemental flourecent tubes designed to output UV-B. so the UV diodes are a small waste as technology isnt there yet. and the IR is useful for flowering plants who use large amounts of red light to grow... the red also increases vertical growth which can be good or it can be bad if you arent aware of this fact. all in all, its better to have them than not have them - but you dont neeeeeed them

I bought my TS3000s local.. all my QBs i imported over Aliexpress or Alibaba

Did you import from Alibaba or bought locally?

I use 3000k with 660nm QBs.. and happy so far ^^

Shot for the reply bro. Is the UV + IR required? I can always just do the simple board with added 66nm

A friend got one, although the power supply packed up within a year of use and good luck getting it swapped out. Otherwise his is good - but it is just a plain Meiju board, no UV or IR on his.