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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/14/2022 in all areas
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I think a lot of people think it is to expensive to grow their own plant. Here is my take on the minimum requirements necessary to start. Tent: 60x60 The cheapest tent around is the Garden HighPro ProBox EcoPro 60 https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/garden-highpro-probox-ecopro-60/ One clip on oscillating fan https://hydrobiz.co.za/products/15cm-fan?_pos=1&_sid=8356d5aa9&_ss=r one small extractor fan https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/hydor-wall-or-inline-exhaust-fans/ Light: https://growopz.com/products/qb-75v2-3000k 10l pot x2 soil: Freedom Farms or Orgasoilux or Organics Matter yellow stickies to control fungus nats This adds up to R3550. Without seeds. this may not be the best equipment on the market but you will be able to grow at least 50g of weed with your first grow. That works out to R71 per gram. It is with out electricity but R250 a month is not going to break the bank.3 points
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I agree but this is really minimum requirements. What makes the 75w nice is you can add a second when you have cash.3 points
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75watt on a 0.6x0.6 is a bit low ^^ 2 of those lamps would do a great job. I use 120w on such a field in my setups... and am rather on the low wattage side. Most prefer 150w on a 0.6x0.6 area / 600w on a 1.2x1.2.3 points
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This is informative for the new grower, but I really think anybody who is considering a budget should rid themselves of the fear and just go buy lights from alibaba, I need to buy new boards because one of them has an issue, and I’m picking up a lm281b 125w board only for 9 dollar, like wtf Anyway, that’s just my opinion, then tent size can be increased because of the money saved, more watts and more space, what else do you need.2 points
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Hydro ^^ is kinda sexy you hover in the 5.5-6.5 area in hydro. To give your plants a little edge, don't stick to the same value, look to vary with each new batch from 5.6 to 6.4. Stay once above 6, next below 6 and so on. You see the first 5 finger leaf, plant is out of germ. If your dripper is right, the plant will not die ^^ i prefer halo drippers. Looks healthy, the roots will find the water. If you feed organic.. you can't use pH up or down or you turn it into chemical feeding. Need organic up and downs.. Lemon juice/vinegar (diluted) or liquid limestone do the same trick, just keep you organic. Drop of pH Up or Down in your organic fertilizer mix turns it chemical.2 points
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When I harvest, I remove as many leaves as I can on each plant and hang the whole plant to dry. Once I think I am dry enough.. in general is way more humid as you think.. I remove the buds from the stems and put em in big jars with a Hydrometer. If I am to moist still, I place that jar directly at one of my tent exit fans. Is in general 50% humidity coming out, will dry quick, so a few hours later I close and let the moisture even out, the hydrometer tells me that without guessing. Once the jar stands for 2 days between 63 and 60% I remove the hydrometer and put a 62% boveda bag in. Big jars get a big bag, 67g. As long as I am sure my jars seal 100%, the bag will balance it to 62% over the next 2 weeks. After 2 weeks I remove the bag and simply keep the jar closed in my storage fridge (not powered). I dress the buds in those jars when ever I have the time. They cure in the jars till is their turn. I smoke about 6-10g a day, so if I shut down, I need at least a kg on stock or I will run out for sure before I can do any harvest again. Harvest time is always a bit the point, most people have issues waiting. If somebody always ends with more brown than 'whiteish' buds... Wait for it! Is like a apple not ripe will always be green and sour ^^ once they change color, they get tasty. There are different opinions out there at what moisture level curing stops. Ranges from 58-54%, at least my last stand of knowledge. Once gets too dry, the micro organisms can't survive.. means they will not cause natural decay anymore. I don't like to have my jars go below 58%, due to curing. Batches going dry, usually also end more on the darker side as end result. If the nutrients in the flower can't decay, stays dark and is way more bitter as the smoke should be. Is the tricky part with weed.. germination, veg, flower, harvest, storage.. all have crucial points and if you fuck up one, quality drops. Flower, Harvest and Storage you can very much ruin it and render it worthless.2 points
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I use the 62% too. When the hydrometer tells me for 2 days that I have 60-62% in the jar, I exchange the meter with a bag. In my opinion the brown color comes when you harvest to early or let the weed dry below 54% humidity, dry it to much.2 points
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Terpenes sour apple - sweet like candy skywalker haze - terpinolene dominant. Same as GTH waiting toe the others to push more terps. Anyway you cannot smell more than 2 a day.2 points
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realising now you are going to be growing autos, I am not really sure how to go from here I've never grown autos cause I don't trust my skill level to make something nice out of them. this got me! one thing I have to mention before going forward is that you should pop the seed straight in the finishing pot. don't pop and transplant. also don't go from small pot to big pot. one big pot and done. I would say don't go bigger than 20L, also not much smaller as plants won't be able to express themself fully if they don't get to stretch out properly. rather a little more space than too little, rootbound before flower will also cause a headache and stress. I feel autos are great for the guys who have loads and loads of weed already and don't mind only harvesting "half-plants" just for new flavour. the guys that know their setups are 100% fine tuned for absolutely no hickups, because even just a slight sign of stress takes you from potential 100g a plant to a maximum yield of +/-50g. in which case I would rather just go with a photoperiod, because you can clone them and manipulate them and if you stress them out there's still time to forgive and all that fancy jazz PLUS you can treat them like autos if you wana..... throw a photoperiod under 12/12 at any time and it will flower, so essentially by just having photoperiods - you have the autos aswell. but it doesn't work the other way around. @Darclinc I'll let you know when I am making clones again you in Western Cape?2 points
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Potassium Bicarbonate is safe. I had some of that Chernobyl this weekend. I am starting to think zweet insanity, Ghost train Haze, and the Durban going around is all the same strain. Or the same parents.2 points
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Been playing with an idea I stole off ig. Plant is a mC purple x lemon Jedi was gifted by @Bay Seeds quite a while back. This is from a cutting, rooted in a pot for just over a month. Transplanted over and given another month before exposing the roots and flowered out. Skull is thanks to my 3D printer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Hi folks, What should the pH be for seedlings in clay balls and roughly how old is a seedling when it officially enters veg. Also, is the dripper arrow in the right position please. She is 5 days old (gorilla glue).1 point
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Yes there is that option. Minimum requirements. Share links if you guys are giving suggestions please.1 point
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Yes, and remember to let the new batch stand at least over night and take a new pH reading before you change tank.. just to be sure. In water culture the nutrient intake is a bit different. Magnesium and Manganese have a different window and swapping the pH gives the plant the best way to increase the intake. Stick for germination to 5.8-6.2. And next time use rockwool. Hope that helped..1 point
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Sometimes not only over drying with Humidity, it can also be caused by sunlight or any light. Turns the cannabis brown quickly1 point
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Hi Prom, so it's 5.6-6.4 pH right from the start?. I've been giving 7 as I thought there are no nutrients yet. Please confirm. Your comments much appreciated. Cheers...1 point
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I'm not sure what you mean here? This is interesting. I do think I harvested a little early last time. But same jars, same boveda's. I guess I'll just see how this bud does and take it from there.1 point
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And this can be reduced by carbon filtering? Are there other ways? Actually, come to think of it, if you do see a too high EC in the runoff, what is the remedy, just more water i.e. flushing until it reaches the correct EC? haha, hence the clever name of the topic? Yes, this is what I'm going to do, I have no intention of transplanting. After germination they are going straight into the final pots. Based on everything that I read, I opted to use 10l fabric pots. As I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I smoke very, very little. When I used to buy it, I bought about 3g every 3-6 months. As such I have no use for as much as 50g and would probably end up giving most away to friends (this is the plan anyway). This is why autoflowers appeal to me so much, because of their smaller size, reduced yield and generally shorter growing period. I'd rather have a small variety than a large yield that I couldn't possibly use by myself. In fact, I never would've started growing if autos didn't exist. I only learned about them very recently. I am, yes. Thanks for the offer, I'll see how these go first!1 point
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It was really good. Not as sativa effects as I thought it would be. But more exciting for me is I found that exact terpenes in an auto I have just seeded. Cannot wait to grow them out.1 point
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@SkunkPharm how was the Chernobyl? I am getting a very interesting smell off her... she's still far from finished though, but wana hear what's the take? I have not grown any GTH and as far as I know, Durban Poison is a parent to the Zweet Inzanity. Last time I came across something nice referred to as Durban Poison or something closer to the original thing was a bud I smoked easily more than 5 years ago. still not convinced it was close to real Durban Poison though, cause it definitly did not live up to the hype. nothing to write home about. it was just "good weed" Hopefully the Zweet Inzanity I got now will be something nicer, then again I am a blank canvas having nothing to compare it to1 point
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Well there are different ways to do this, I usually know when I repot, the plant that gets potted needs water at that time, so when I repot I'll have to saturate my medium to ensure no dry pockets. this will also ensure a few drops of runoff. the key is to not dunk a bunch of water all at once that way it just forms a gutter and runs straight out the bottom, but rather slowly water it to make sure all the soil gets saturated and take the first 10ml of runoff and test it. should give quite a clear indication of what's going on in the soil... you obviously need to know the EC of the water you put in, so test that first. needs to be below 1 EC for seedling plants. alternatively, I've seen people fill up the pots they wana plant in, but before repotting, just water them till you get first runoff and test the EC before planting.1 point
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This diary is at its end and I'm quite pleased with the results. Dry weight came in at 150g from all 4 plants, I hoped for 200 but we'll get there on the next run hopefully . Trying something new and exciting for this next run with a bunch of different strains, look out for the new diary . Thanks to all who took the time to have a look here and give their input. Always great to hear from others! Much love peeps1 point
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Growth in veg is going well, all healthy plants and the training is even and flat for the most part. I will soon add in the first net to act as the initial spreader and leveler of the canopy. At that point I think I will start looking into flipping. In my last grow I flipped around here already and after harvest I felt I could have used a little bit more height in the space for some fatter buds and maybe less canopy. I got a few more pocorn nugs than expected so I would like to reduce that on this run.1 point
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Thanks for the explanation, that seems simple enough. And do you measure this in the runoff after watering only? How else would you do it when you are at the very early stages and cannot measure runoff due to just giving a little bit of water, i.e. not nearly enough to cause any significant runoff? Yes, I intend to let it sit and get to at least ambient temp before watering.1 point
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Howzit Mense, oooow I have a good feeling about the present, I think you all do. We are uniting to find a position of prosperity in the current cannabis culture, and it’s amAzeballs I might add. maybe the wool is over my eyes, but baaaa baaaa Alrighty, we have budrot, main bud on the sugar widow that was looking the best, so we chopped the kop and still fighting the good fight. Geez I don’t know how long it’s been, but maybe another week or so. I need to feed the other one again, I think I underfed the plant to be honest, anyway. then the Wilsonxlhead and Wilsonxslurri pictured below, man this slurri cross is a dam winner, the sweetest smells I have ever, so glad to be rerunning her, then the Lhead cross, is like superman weed, you’ll be doing lots of shit around the house (pictured first by that distinct sativa structure) then in order top to bottom crepes, lhxwilson, slurrixwilson, gg#4 (flower time!) All the best!1 point
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I somehow completely missed the update last week, but here I am 2 weeks later haha. The 2 week gap really shows the progress. Checking on them everyday can sometimes make things seem like they're not doing much. The proof is in the ppudding they say! Bananium showing some nice purples in the leaves, while the Deluxe Sugarcane just gets frostier by the day. DS leaves have gone a very light green weirdly, I remember it doing the seem thing on the last run. The burnt tips of all the plants also resemble the last run, clearly haven't quite figured out the nutes yet. I will get there!1 point
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