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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/03/2022 in all areas

  1. First 4 pics - gorilla Fumé 2 different females. I can sort already see which one I will keep. Just from selecting on structure and rooting of clones. Still waiting for the terps to come through. From experience with OG crosses I know where from 7 weeks the terps will come through. pic 5 & 6 is the Florida Gaspack from Humboldt. she stinks already. then it is the OKCxGTH, Jedi’s Code, GG4 ( sticky af already) and the Runtz smelliest plant of the bunch.
    6 points
  2. Small update here, GD finally showing signs of reveg. Letting the Cheese bush out and do their own thing in the meantime. I'll make sure the tent looks the way it needs to before flip. Maybe a drop or two too much N here for these ladies. GD reveg
    4 points
  3. Ya I understand your reasoning. If you want to your total EC to go down, it would not be the best idea to feed. I refer to the plants having an appearance of lockout, and that’s due to the excess as you say, so it goes all the way up the chain, but that is hindering the uptake of the final Elements like nitrogen, resulting in the lighter colour. Arden Anderson explained the phenomenon as a final Carbon deficiency and not any particular element deficiency, as it works back up the chain. So excess induced deficiencies are annoying because they cause other deficiencies. that’s why I recommend introducing some humic and fulvic, they do well in situations where there are imbalances, interms of nutrient density, the npk if humic and fulvics are seriously minuscule. To Move ppm up 10 or 20 points with humic sand fulvic would be a physical amount I would never apply, so the amounts, the very tip of a scalpels worth. Research is vast, but the conclusions are noteworthy. very low doses frequently, and frequently is weekly. Will give best results However, I only consider humic and fulvic useful in these situations. Other times, the plants must encourage humic substances to form by themselves.
    2 points
  4. hahahah shit oh well whoever said it, it makes sense just note, the yellowing on new growth is not N deficiency. those are the beginning stages of excessive P and K symptoms. or what is it that indicated N deficiency? I could be missing something, but I feel the they gona ask for N soon, because I am not giving any since I am trying to lower overall EC from the excess of other stuff. mainly also the reason for not feeding more right now. I wouldn't be able to get it over my heart to feed them anything now knowing how much I fed them before they started looking like this. almost 100% sure there is no deficiency right now and also how I know it's excess. The first deficiency that will show will be N, cause there's a normal amount of it right now, but because I cannot feed just N I can't feed anything at all and risk even more P and K stress. so my only alternative is clean water till the excess symptoms are a little less then slowly half dose of Fish which is N focussed. and then taking it from there. I got both humic and fulvic acid laying around, but I feel there's not enough information out there for me to comfortably use it. Unless also just with the less is more approach. I have an understanding of the stuff but also only the limited amount information that's out there since these 2 things have not been fully studied yet. Just don't wana "add" more stuff when I am thinking about less is more and knowing very well I already over did it I just feel a step back right now is a step in the right direction.
    2 points
  5. Yeah, the liquid feeds are quite strong, so you are probably right that you have too much p and k growing in the same soil. I don't know if I said that, probably not me bud. I don't know much about biobizz range, I just know the ingredients and seen that chart a couple of times. Maybe have a look into some sort of Humic/fulvic product to couple with the fish. If you have something lying around. Think it will help with the imbalance if any. But yes, they are looking hungry for N,
    2 points
  6. duuude 100% organics is more about reading the plant than anything since there's already nutrients and stuff happening in the soil you're set with a given starting point, where as with hydro you start with basically nothing and follow a schedule from there. with organics you gotta know how to speak plant. I am using the Biobizz range and have been alternating between the Grow and Fish during veg. I see that the Grow has more P and K in it so I am thinking it was too much of that also the fact that they're in recycled soil and I had flowering plants in the soil last where I fed them with BioBloom, so my mind is telling me there's also some left over P and K. I also picked up on your pro tip you dropped recently on using more Fish during veg and when flower comes switching to the Grow together with Bloom. makes a bunch of sence to me since you also need the sugar from the molasses in the Grow more during flower than during veg. Either way the clean water for now, but I have a feeling they should be asking for some N real soon and I don't wana wait till that happens. So if they're not looking happy by the end of this week I'll introduce half dose of the Fish.
    2 points
  7. Its difficult, when you find the less is more spot, you also find the area where there's not enough. hard to keep the levels where you want them especially when you eye balling it with organic inputs. What did you feed?
    2 points
  8. Well, stick a fork in her, she's done By the looks in the photo you can't really see the difference from day 4 to 5. Usually the seperation leaves less curd in the bottom of the jar and it all comes together at the top. I used high fat milk so I am sure that's the reason for the extra high amount of curd forming. The white on the bottom of the jar is just a film on the sides, the whole bottom half of the jar is LABserum. ready to use. popped her in the fridge this morning, will seperate it tonight and add about 300ml of the LABS to 10L AACT for aplication tomorrow. For the indoor ladies no nutrients so I have tap water bubbling to get the chlorine out so I can add BioCult with LABserum in it just for inoculation. no feed. The big 100L pots outside, soil is ALIVE not gona disturb the worms for a photo had the bin open for the fisrt time over this weekend after starting it about 3 weeks ago, everythings pumping 100% in the worm bin if no one knows how to make mozzarella from curd I'll be giving the curd to the worms aswell, for this round only. I love mozzarella and I am not passing up the opportunity again I'll get it right.
    2 points
  9. looks like I am still too heavy handed with the nutes, been on clean water for over 2 weeks now all still not growing 100% gotta stop with my over feeding issue! Clear signs of excessive P and K. I really need to let the "less is more" thing still sink in!
    2 points
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