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If you are curious about your leaf sugar content, I can measure it for you. Just sent me a private message to deal out when ^^ I would need 4-5 fresh fan leaves per plant you want tested, taken at least 4 hours after lights went on / sun rise. Located in the Blouberg area and I do those tests free of charge.. consumes zero material and a test is done in 2 mins.

it shouldn't matter... not to my knowing. During Veg i use chemicals like Copper Soap... and avoid everything chemical during flower. In general I look to obtain the predator versions of what ever i have. Bacteria's, bug's, ... what ever kills the pest i deal with. I used Eco Buzz for PM once and was rather disappointed on the effect it did.. strangely I had the impression.. my PM got worse after using it.

EMS-240 - @120W | 60cm tent. Crazy Haze: Flower Day 33. Surviving shedding so far, no signs of nanners...yet. Most amazing, pungent, citrus terpenes. This pheno is head and shoulders above the other clones I was gifted.

Loving the weather these days

@Bay Seeds Anastasia 99 autoflower day 54. This one is outdoors in the tyre garden in new soil I am trying. So far no deficiencies or pests. Other than the damn little grasshoppers everywhere. Got one of the seedlings. Sent from my SM-A032F using Tapatalk

Sorry.. have it only for weed a friend from Switzerland wanted to send me a 5 Gallon home distillery kit... customs send it back.. and he had to pay over 2000 rand when he got it back... return shipping cost. Government looking very hard to keep their alcohol taxes ^^ would be cool if they would look into the energy crisis as well.

only thing to remember when using biological control is whenever you use a chemical contact pesticide after that you kill off all predetors too. so it's either one or the other. biological control - takes a long time but is more effective in the long run if you're consistent in keeping predatory populations up. you can't just apply it once or twice and expect it to resolve all your problems. because it's living organisms the probability of first application working is very low, it's something that has to adapt to your growing environment and like I said will be more effective over the long run IF you maintain populations. pesticides - effective as used, IPM is a weekly regime, never ends, except in flower. contact treatments don't last too long. could resolve infestations after one application, but can also be an ongoing battle if a plant has poor BRIX% bugs will attack it no matter what you spray. if you doing biological control the BRIX% don't matter as much cause you bringing food for the predators. if theres no microscopic bugs/spores (food) for the microscopic predators they die off too so it's almost more practical to use biological control outdoors or on a farm, rather than indoors where you get month periods of no pest or disease pressure then there is no point in having a biological control in there. either way, nutes and pesticides have very little to nothing to do with eachother. very seldom that you will get a NB notice to not use one product with another in terms of nutes and spray applications, but that's almost never. just use cannabis specific stuff. don't spray your cannabis plants with shit made for roses

With such a short life cycle, things change fast. They are between 10 and 24 days. Males starting show, with interesting, strong stem rubs ranging from straight fuel, to rubber.

This autoflower cultivar finds its origins in @SkunkPharm space, with a Gorilla Cookies supplied by myself, and dusted with a Bobby's Widow F3 male pollen from Skunks library. That seed run can be found here: Skunkpharm Autoflower Seed Run There is a lot to like here. The F1 specimen pictured above is 65 days from seed and is practically ready to harvest. I'll let her go to 70 days. Besides being frost covered, her terps are loud. Spicy and sweet, with a hint of berries. This thread will be a running journal as I journey to stabilize these very desirable traits. F2s are next, and that run has started.

Do I smell a home brewer? #refractometer. or strictly for this testing reason lol

Is rather easy.. the secret is to cut the leaves to tiny pieces. I stuff em in a 20ml syringe and use a long blade thin scissor to cut to shreds. Then just use the syringe directly to apply, needs a bit pressure but the finer you have it cut, the easier you get the juice out.

Correct... they should be around 1700-2000 rand.. so not the biggest investment. The main issue.. you do not use it as much as you thought you would. Once you have your molasses set for veg/flower.. and have the right numbers in sugar content, you just stick to it. I run between 15-17% in general.. heavy feeders can drop to 12% but that is still acceptable.

You using a brix refractometer?

So my question it's totally as the title reads! I would like to know from the guys and girls who have used specifically the eco buzz disease pro as a preventive on you canna crops and weather your crops where organically fed or synthetically fed? Can I assume that synthetically fed plants won't react too bio fungicides? Or am I wrong to think that? Cheers