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Yor! I really don't miss that place, damn it's hot and droeg

This is very important during the Summer months. Ventilation is crucial during loadshedding at the very least. Even just 4 hours of 100% humidity caused a couple of my nuggets to rot.

This is when my winter grow started showing signs of spotting. I am using the same soil (Orgasoilux) but it is used soil which I have amended. I will be bloody furious if this happens again. I planted the sprouts in ordinary spent potting soil but now that they have been up-potted they are in the amended soil mix and their roots have in all likelihood ventured into the amended soil. The frustrating part is that Jamie Garner grows the most incredible plants in his soil. Has anyone else experienced trouble with the Orgasoilux? The Lavender Best showed the leaves starting to crisp at 8 days old. The Bruce Banner 2 at 17 days. The Caramel King at 25 days The Wedding Cake at 24 days RR XXL Auto SK Auto

Spots developing on new leaves. I have moved the light further away and fed the roots some calmag from the top. The light was at 650 PPFD and is now at 490 PPFD. RR XXL Auto SK Auto

Hot day on the reservation. 45° in the tyre garden. Sent from my SM-A032F using Tapatalk

I use mineral for indoor only because its fun and i like doing the calculations of ph etc. For me ,indoor is more "something" to do while outdoor is finished and also when DayZ get on my nerves i need something else to do... I have always and will always stick to organic when it comes to outdoor.

Malmesbury is also hot. I work there now and then

bulknice

She's ready. Chop time. Chopping Prussian too...showing signs of revegging, k@k genetics

2 Week Old Auto Seedlings in Swick RR XXL Auto SK Auto This is what the development looks like at 2 weeks.

A Note About The Swick I filled the plastic bowls to three quarter height with perlite. I mixed enough amended dechlorinated water to fill the reservoirs with liquid to two thirds height. I wriggled the pots heavily into the damp perlite and I have the very base of the pot resting on wet. I moat watered all the way to the outside of the pot so that the damp soil will conduct water by capillary action, wicked from the perlite reservoir. Judging how much water to deliver top and bottom takes time and I did not rush it. I up-potted yesterday, wriggled the pots into the perlite and did a small moat water around the plants to settle them into their new homes. The following day I topped up the water in the reservoirs and gave a more thorough moat watering. I am monitoring the movement of the liquid through the cloth grow bags so that I can make any adjustments that may become necessary. I poured of about 750 ml from each and the following day (today) I moat watered with that water as the top layer of soil had become a little dry. I want to get the balance perfect for the wicking action and that takes some feel. Thanks for the support. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

Outdoor pot plants are easy.. work but easy.. just put em under a cover when it rains, keep that bud dry. The issue is the water seeping inside... outside looks dry but inside the nightmare starts.

ok im following what you are saying my initial thought was that they will hermie and so i never considered the actual on/off after that. another q; if you run a dehu (12l) during power on will it help during lights off with rh level(currently 40)? room size 4.5x3.5, im looking to not spend as much and was planning on having a dehu by time plants go into flower. so then fans also only run during lights on no batteries

I still grow indoors without any buffer to loadshedding. With the current stage 4/6 schedule, i run my veg on a 24h on cycle. Its not the Interrupted light cycle that causes issues during veg though , but interruptions to the 12h dark cycle during Flowering that is crucial. That 12h or more dark time is critical to the florigen hormone function responsible for stable flowering without stress responses presenting. When in flowering, i ignore the loadshedding times. See the loadshedding during lights on as a prolonged cloud cover. Its really not the lights that are an issue though. Its that 12h dark part of the cycle and the ventilation at that time. You need to keep the fans going during lights off/loadshedding times to avoid PM. Leaving the tent open at times when the lights would normally be on, will avert the PM. But during lights off/tent closed, airflow is that thing that HAS to still happen or PM will wreck your grow within a week.

Do you perhaps live in an old farm house with nice thick walls @Naughty.Psychonaut. I'm other side Malmesbury and indoor temps impossible to work with. Sent from my SM-A032F using Tapatalk

Side and top view of a few tall ones I need to keep on the low. Last season I ended up with 2m plants in 20l pots. 60% shade cloth tends to make the ladies stretch. Sent from my SM-A032F using Tapatalk

Welcome @Stinky Pete I'm in Wellington, Boland. people call this place Hellington, few places get hotter than we get it here... I grow all year long, no aircon no inverters no batteries no generators no extra fancy shit... you just gotta be able to keep your hand on them and don't go away for more than 2 days at a time. been growing indoor for over 5 years now. it just takes a bit of flexibility and knowing what you need to do. like letting the tent stand open for an hour or two when needed. Lights aren't the issue with loadshedding, fans are, and they'll only save you from PM when the RH skyrockets during loadshedding, but if your IPM is on point then you are good as gold.... also, photoperiods are waaaaaaaaaaay more forgiving than autos, autos are really only for the guys who make little to no mistakes, otherwise you shoot yourself in the foot thinking you gona make it easier on yourself by growing autos in an difficult situation where autos themselves even in fine tuned grow room will give you problems. whyyyyyy brother, why do that if you got a handle on organic, whyyy in the name of all that is good would you move away from organics over to synthetics? It's not 2001 anymore, "conventional" farming has got to stop, asap. we as cannabis growers / urban farmers should set the example. do yourself a favour and provide a looksee here F*#K SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS, I have said this sooooo many times before, but synthetic fertilizers just shouldn't exist. and I will keep saying it for as long as it's true.