Leaderboard

Getting a competition like this going does cost money. Just getting your seeds to you is R100. Then there is a cost involved with the seeds themselves, any packaging and or printing. Multiply this by 50 to 100 entrants, it becomes an astronomical 5-10k. Now we haven't even bought or engraved a single trophy yet, and there is no prize pool to speak of. Expecting myself or the forum admin to cover that cost is unfair. Neither Totemic or the forum is monetized currently. An entrance fee of R500 would cover costs, and leave +/- R250 per entrant towards a prize pool. The more entrants, the bigger the prizes could be....could be cash, or could be gear bought. I say gear bought, because getting sponsors for these comps is difficult. Getting them to sponsor the top shelf prizes we all want is even harder. If you guys want a proper kick ass growoff, Its just not going to work any other way.

What is your desired outcome? If you can define this in detail, the breeding approach becomes obvious. I have explored a vast number of approaches and do filial, bx, rbx, and cubing and a combination of them while developing my lines.

Update. Since its not a proper auto i experimented a bit. Fimmed her, topped main grow tip 4 days later. All while still in the tent. Transferred her outdoors yesterday and looking happy. No pistils showing yet.

This is what I've found that works for me & is possibly the best bang for buck in the autopot XL system outdoors: Hortimix tripart kit, Silica plus & EHG bloom. Starting with the grow & micro at around 200/250ppm & 1/3 dose of silica for seedlings till they're about a month old or about 50cm tall. then gradually increasing it to around 1000ppm max for those 3 combined. For flower I half the grow & micro & add a bit of the MKP from the kit & the EHG bloom, keeping it at around 1000ppm. I use a 160l tank, so there's lots of room for adjustment if necessary, most times I just eyeball the amounts, then check the ppm & add more water/nutes if necessary.

Some schools fees paid. Next attempt.

Hi breeders or those in the know. Can anyone advise me on filial breeding vs backcrossing, Squaring and Cubing? According to my understanding there will be much more diversity with filial breeding (especially F2 generation) than with back crossing but with back crossing there is much more stability or rather uniformity of the desired traits from the mother. Back crossing seems to be the most effective way to achieve a desired line if you have the original mother of course. Releasing a F1 line then would purely be due to time/space constraints and/or diversity being offered? Please feel free to correct me on my terminology or (mis)understanding of breeding. Cheers

She's so short that i had to trim the bottom leaves to prevent them touching the coco and side of the pot. i haven't fed her yet other than initial Talborne pellets.

Well I don't know how else it would make it serious enough for the organizers as well as the growers to have some what of a successful comp. There is an element of commitment when the entrance fee is substantial. Also it makes it easier to then have a decent prize pool. I don't think the cops care about our little home growers competition. Honestly, and if they do, they actually need to worry about the dude growing 100/1000 plants, not the little pikininis

If we involve money, we enter a gray zone.. if we act on trade alone.. we are covered by the law. Till it is legalized, I would exclude a entry fee to keep the cops off our backs. Indoor or Outdoor is just a question when you enter the competition.. Winter outdoor isn't the same as summer outdoor. But weed is weed and to prevent people entering crap to get good stuff in exchange.. also needs to get addressed. When some guys have fun, there is always a person trying to abuse the system. We first have to decide what way to go and then lay down some ground rules. Main question to start.. we grow or we smoke weed in the competition?

I believe for an organic/soil based grow one would sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the top soil and water for a boost in silica which in turn reenforces the cell membrane within the plant cells which helps to prevent disease and strengthen the overall plant. When purchasing liquid silica it is recommended to apply as a foliar spray as to not disturb the microbiology within the soil.

So does the Kushy Amino acid and it will work out cheaper. Kushy you use like 2ml - 4ml per 10L of water. Umya you use 100ml per 10L and is more expensive. Go with the Kushy, @Prom has done side by side trials with Kushy amino vs Bio-Heavan and found little to no difference. I use this for my plants and works great, however these guys are cheaper - https://gthydro.co.za/products/897-captain-black-strap-1l.html In veg you only going to use like 2ml per 1L water, feed once a week. I usually combine this with some calmag. In flower you can go up to 4ml - 5ml per 1L water, I still use it in combo with calmag here. one extra addition I would recommend if get a bottle of microbes - https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/biodyne-environoc-401-microbes/ Add some microbes in at 0.5ml per 1L water, feed once a week, this will keep introducing new microbes into the grow medium. You can stick with Seagro if you using the molasses, it will be much of a muchness. Yeah those are fine, just keep in mind that you need to stop the humic acid from 3 weeks into flower (it can bring down terpene levels if given all the way through flower). Fulvic you give a little bit in veg, but more as you progress into flower. So it's not essential, but does help. I use Kelpak - https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/kelpak - I only use it once a week, but its heavy on application with 5ml per 1L water, so I tend to go through it rather quickly. 2 or 3 bottles might be needed over the course of the grow.

More like bat shit! I see what you did there.