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Flower - Day 14

2 weeks now, Giving some assistance to the Tortoni, she was struggling a bit. Quite enjoying growing in here. Not sure how much longer I’ll veg for, but will take it patiently for now skywalker looking to be male Get to grow these Dosixcherry cookies out, should be a treat, cheers @SkunkPharm

Pretty much pollenated now. Cut the male.

Look what fits your need and room construction. In SA you have more the issue of what you get local.. importing a tent comes with a hefty transport fee as they are heavy.. and sea delivery takes months. For a starter... keep it cheap. Not said you get a good harvest and most people give up after 2 failures and sell their stuff again in disappointment. Don't buy a Ferrari if you don't have a drivers license yet and your friend just told you they look awesome. But once you sit in your back breaks and they drive in general like junk ^^. Buy a Golf, learn to drive properly and then upgrade to what you like and not your buddy likes. The thing that kills all fun on a grow tent is the zipper... bad zipper sucks donkey dick. Rest you can work around.. the zipper will kill your fun each day.

Hi A brand new video published, including an interview with Tony Kerby from JAK Importers. He has over the last 2 years spent a fair amount of time in South Africa, tasting some of our finest. He has been a judge at the East Coast Cannabis Cup for the last two years and was the main sponsor for last weeks Canna Cup. Amazing man, with so much knowledge who has developed his own brand of lights in Michigan and recently started promoting and importing here to South Africa. The Canna Club interviewed him at the Bathurst Agricultural Show where he gives insight to the differences in the USA and South African market and his experiences in SA. Enjoy.

Just throwing a spanner in the works here but have a look at Secret Jardin tents. I got myself one last year and love that I can place my vents and outlets where I want to.

A friend dropped off some plugs so I made 3x clones of each. The smaller slower plant on the left I cut mains stems. The bigger stronger plant on the right I chopped the lowest main branch, and 2x sidebranches. No main stems touched yet. By the time I order new plugs and gel these should be rooted.

Jip. Many things to consider. I may even consider wood since I do have sawmill at home. But that is quite an effort better suited for something permanent.

There are no 100% efficient devices.. we would blow to much energy into keeping supra conductive conditions if we want to run a electric system max efficient. Keep indoor growing simple, the more complicated your setup is, the more issues you have with debugging. Also, just to say it.. if you look for a perfect setup and NOT use a PAR meter ^^ you can't get to the goal anyhow. The question is, how many watts you want to use to grow. I run 480 watts on a 1.44 square meter area. Most prefer more 600 to 1000 watts on 1 square meter. The more light you put in the more light your plants have to play with.. max they can absorb is about 1000-1200 micromole PAR. Over that you need to add CO2 to get gain in production or just heat up more the environment. Problem is the more watts you run the more heat you have to remove again. Goal is to never pass 26 degrees C, over 30 your terpenes burn up and decay high speed. If you want to run things perfect during flower, keep it 20, day and night cycle. Light is important, I agree very much, but is just ONE component to have in perfect range, if you want perfect weed. I use 3000K QBs for Germ, Veg and Flower. Works... then you need fertilizers... best specific for Cannabis growing and use the fertilizer correctly. Can have the best light in the world.. if you don't feed what the plants need.. will not end well. Doesn't matter if you go Soil or Hydro... or can't make up your mind and go Coco. How you handle the plants will give the result. But.. have to learn the method and swapping means starting over again. My 5 cents: Great you look into the matter in high detail. But.. don't get lost in the forest of numbers.. the only number counting is if you are happy with your harvest. First learn the ropes and once you learned the plant, check how "perfect" you get your setup to run. Plants will tell you how they feel.. you just have to observe them and understand what they try to pass on

Definitely more custom. It's nice to be also able to decide the sizes of the outlets. Only problem is resale. It's never a guarantee the next guy will want the same configuration, if you happen to get a little wacky.

Good day guys. I ordered 5bns from Trophy seeds 3 popped 2 did not. Popped Ethos beans in breeder packs no problem but the singles from Trophy is now the first problem I have encountered. Any replacement policy from them? Anybody know?

Ok good. Sad loss those, Ethos beans are not cheap. will not make use of them again. Spent allot of money with them of late. just can not afford it to happen again

Also have a look at this. Make a full cover for your tent. This should help a LOT. Alububble-Data-Sheet-2906_2019-final-no-crops.pdf

Grow in an insulated area. Suck air from the bottom of the tent instead of the top. I moved my grow from the garage into the house. Massive difference. not that I am really growing any more. Just running an 80 x 80 with 150w lights

I highly doubt it.

What you seems to be unable to grasp is that regardless how cool the fitting runs, it still dissipates the same watts as heat rejection. If that watts are dropped in your room, then the room gets hot. As simple as that. And it gets the very same hot regardless how cool the surface feels to your hand. I fully understands why you would want to reverse the light cycle to night time - that is the obvious solution if you have ESKOM power. If you don't, then it has to be run from batteries. At R 25 000 for a 5.2 kWh Lithuim, of which you would probably need at least 2 then, it can become rather steep. If this problem can be solved in an elegant wat, then I can assure you it will be to the benefit of many others who will be ever ore plagued by load shedding.

Running lights on during day is gona be a tough one. indoor growing 101, first thing you learn. big no no to run lights on during day unless you in full controle of environment. good thing you jumped on LED first instead of HID. Well man, I just don't know what else to tell you. Out of all light style designs the bar style OUT OF ALL OTHER DESIGNS heats up least........ what are you trying to argue? I hope you're not trying to say I am wrong about that? I am not talking about the heat coming off each single diode itself. the driver itself warms up too even more than the diodes, we haven't even touched on that, but you focussing on the intricate details of a single diode. I am talking about over all heat. you wana keep things as cool as possible, right? so why go with the design that needs external cooling????? PLUS you know heat wears on the stuff..... I really don't understand what it is you not grasping? If you take that info and go back to your point about each single diode, would it not STILL make more sense to try and get that diode as close to running as cool as possible? Grouping diodes together OBVIOUSLY will cause more heat around the diodes itself. spreading them further apart will OBVIOUSLY allow them to run cooler in general.... You can see the light I built on my page. and read carefully, I said that I never have issues with heat and constantly in the 25-30°C range. light on or off. because it fluctuates. I also said IF the light has a 3 to 5°C impact on my given temp inside the tent, that doesn't bother me. indicating that the light can give off some heat, not absolutely no heat. It's just minimal, no need for extra cooling in my situation even though a wendy heats up a lot more than inside a house or garage. remember we all got temp monitors inside our grow rooms, I watch my temp closely. If there is something you don't understand cause you haven't got experience in it, that's just your level of understanding. It doesn't mean it's not true. If you don't want to understand it cause it challenges how you currently understand things then that's on you If you know soooooo much about the way heat and electricity works together, you should also know bringing it as close to the least amount of heat coming off the appliance would be best right? (meaning things are running smoothe) And vice versa, running it as hot as possible will be worse, right? So if you have an option to run the thing cooler, why would you argue that and opt for the design that runs hotter and needs external cooling. especially for a guy running on alternative power you should be looking at these things. Anyway, I'm not gona try to give you any more pointers Goodluck bud

Well, the big problem is I will not be able to change my light cycle to work at night when it is cool... I simply will not have the power for that. My power is in the day when the sun is shining. Regardless of that, I would like to see your light design that does not give off any heat. LEDs, even the best of them is about 50% efficient - unless you can show me products where this is not the case. Shit, I have looked at many data sheets of components and there just ain't that magic one in there. Sorry, it simply is impossible. A 1W LED will give off about 0.5W of heat minimum and if that LED is inside your room, it is room load. I am not trying to be wiseguy here. This is just plain and simple realities of engineering. I have never come across a 100% efficient device. As said, the fact that your hand does not feel the heat, does not mean there is not the same heat. It is just spread over a larger area. I also see people are struggling to heat up boxes in winter - and yet a simple layer of good bubble wrap sheets around the box will probably more than half the heat one would need to keep it hot. In that case, the light alone will be enough to heat it up.

hahah brother if you switching between 3000k flat and 5000k flat you not mixing at all. when the one is pumping other one is sleeping. never running both at same time. going with 4000k stuff you gotta add either red or blue - mixing spectrums. that's what I mean by that. cause already 4000k isn't where you wana be so you HAVE to add blue for veg to pull that 4000k closer to 5000k (mixing the stuff) and for flower you still work with same 4000k and add red to pull the 4000k closer to 3000k. and the 4000k will be running at all times and you only switch beteeen red spec and blue spec. that's early 2000's tech, it's been improved on. heheee bout that heat thing, we in the same book but just on a different page you say you don't wana get too technical, but that's waaaaayy more technical than it needs to be. Forget about the lm/w forget about all the finer detail stuff. Basically all I am saying is - the bar style layout design allows for the light to run cooler over all. Now you already got the common knowledge on how something that runs hot is wearing out faster so that's point nr.1 but you also saying you wana displace the heat from the light before it heats up the room? why not skip all that and go with a light design that doesn't heat up? saving you money in the long run (not having to replace burnt out / worn out parts) aswell as the short run (not having to run extra fans or cooling appliances of sorts) aswell as providing better light coverage and penetration for your plants? It's a win win win situation. going with PCB is shooting yourself in the foot, people used to use these early 2000's but we have discovered new and better ways. no need for external cooling when the light doesn't heat up or give off much heat I got over 300w in a 1mx1m tent, bar style LED that covers the canopy with diodes from wall to wall, more than what's needed in that space, but in the right spec atleast cause I only flower in that tent so never need to accompany vegging plants under that light and I can toggle W output for early flower - late flower output increase, though I've had it on full blast during peak summer and we get 40°C days down here in the Winelands, those hot summer nights with my lights on I hit about 25 to 30°C inside the grow room and lights off during daytime keeping things dark I still sit at around 25 to 30°C inside the tent. pretty constant. my grow is in a insulated wendy house outside in my yard. never had any heat issues and I got no aircons no external cooling none of that. Actually thinking about running a small heater on a timer in there during the colder months, cause I am not a fan of purple weed. I don't smoke with my eyes.

OK, so I do understand better now what you say - but you are mixing up your 3000K and 5000K again hehehehe.. For this discussion, I have attached the data sheet of the LED as it will help a lot to explain a few points. Your input is based on experience and it helps me a lot to build this puzzle quicker. Thanks a lot for that. Yes, my light will indeed be such that if I use the 5000K channel it will be enough light without using any 3000K and vice versa. Regarding the heat though, there I have to differ from you completely. My day job is HVAC so I have been doing heat load calculations for buildings for the past 20 years. Any device, regardless if you can "feel" the heat or not, if it dissipated say 20W of heat, it is done - it does not matter if it was done at a surface temperature of 40°C or 60°C. You can't reverse it. Heat from a device (and even humans) is basically transferred in two ways to the room. Convention and radiation. If that heat was transferred to the room air either way, eventually the room air heats up the same amount and you have to remove it via the AC unit or otherwise. However, a higher surface temperature does make a difference with regards to how heat is transferred as the higher it is, the larger a portion of the heat will be transferred via radiation. Radiation can be a very bad thing because that is the thing that can literally burn your plant leaves from a distance. Spreading out the LEDS on the panel to lower the surface temperature therefore will reduce that radiation component - but not only that, it spreads the light out better. What you are trying to suggest is that if you run a LED at a lower output, it will be more efficient. I did not thought about making those calculations, but yes it does bring up the efficiency slightly. If I work on 90% of the rated lumens, then I go up from 137 lm/w to 151 lm/w and at 75% lumens it reach 160 lm/W. That said, the difference in heat rejected between 137 lm/w to 160 lm/w is not that much. I can however see the advantage in longevity clearly. What is also tells me is that controlling the LED means I basically need a current controller - not a voltage controller. Since in a room like this, lights are the major source of heat, it can be a big advantage if one can capture that heat and get it out of the room before it is transferred to the room air. All in all, we can get to a very good answer here. An affordable, reliable light that does not dump heat into the room. 2009021504_HONGLITRONIC-Hongli-Zhihui--HONGLITRONIC-HL-A-5730D1W-S1-08-HR3-LY_C210347.pdf

@420SA Admin is too kind thanks! It helps when I attempt to direct traffic to my diary, usually people stop when they see account needed.

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Almost done, just waiting for the seeds to mature and turn nice and dark. This mother plant is cheese from fastbuds and the pollen is from a reversed top gun by atlas seeds.

First time im excited to see balls

10 days in flower. 2 females one male. Making seeds with these. Clones are busy rooting. To flower out the females and see if they are any good.

Chernobyl clones switched to flower. Transplanted 2x Atlas - Papa Smurf, and 2x Renegade - Tooth Fairy clones. 4 males in a row out of the fem search so far, darn.

Sounds like fun and games, and service is not what it used to be. Just smile and be nice, think outside the box. SAPO - last time I used them my shirt from USA arrived 6 months later. Previous to that it took them 3/4 months to deliver an arrival slip. So all in all service got better. Alibaba I bought a water pump and received a necklance. Gave up on them both.