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Some cheeky pics. Harvest window ETA is in about a week ie. ~7 July. All the same strain, but some variance between the plants The frost is at least looking clean. It smells great! The bud is pretty leafy though. Trim time is longer but there's always plenty sugar trim for other things.

hey tnx for the reply So this is my first time growing autos and I have found what you say to be true they are so sensitive to any kind of stress its allso my first time really using lights they are just normal flode lights not grow light but the setup is just for germination and im planing on moving them outside and for soil I make n mix of 1part coco plus 1part compost and usually I add 1part perlite but i was out this time round and then I put a layer of pure cocoa on top as a mulch and for fertilizer I use organic but I haven't used anything on these babies yet except some small amount of kelpak as for the water I have a filter system that filters out the chlorine and fluoride out of the municipal water that I use and I don't have a specific rhythm of when I watter I just watter based on how dry or wet the soil looks and feels and then once per week I give a big amount of water but I think that once per week big watering is too much so im going to stop with that. I moved the lights up yesterday and they are already looking less droopy and slightly happier

I keep missing whole threads Plants are looking great man, excited to see how they turn out!! Wish I knew about this back in 2018. My first time buying "reputable" seeds was from Trophy. All seeds in Trophy tins with a paper inside and the seed info hand written on the paper. Went from over excited to blood boiling as all I have been hearing is the first dodgy activity to look out for when buying seeds is that it should be sealed in the breeder packs. Got Ethos, Barneys Farm, Dutch Passion and Seedsman. Contacted them, they asured me if I buy 10xseed packs I get original breeder packaging, but cause they're singles they have to open bulk packs and repackage them. Couldn't argue that till I saw what the weed looked like, the seeds I carried through to harvest turned out to be legit without a doubt so I always gave them good word of mouth. Out of 9 seeds only 2 of the Ethos didn't pop. Scrapped up the duds to my own level of experience, since it was my first time working with seeds that came from somewhere else in the world, I convinced myself the more expensive seeds demand for more maticulous environmental conditions, cause of their higher standards they been getting used to in the breeders setup. I should have just asked for replacements

Damn man another amazing batch done, you really pumping full gear, amazing work as always! Just goes to show what the phrase "reputable breeder" really means! Never seen you posting mids or even anything close to sub par. You really don't have to do any digging at all to find a good pheno when selecting the right seeds. Did you clone them all to select a keeper or how do you plan future grows with the new genetics? If I remember correctly you ran your zurple punch pheno quite a few times?

Hello bud I would stop using The ph down for now, until you can get a digital ph meter and guarantee the levels, For now I recon the plants are hungry and need some whole food, kelpak wont necessarily be enough, I’ve been having the same issue with very light soil I put together. Was with seedlings I sprouted in really light soil I put together unintentionally. Best fix would be to put them in new soil, but if you cant, start feeding, molasses or fish, any veg type nutrient you can find. good luck

As for the ph according to this ph meter of mine the ph is way off and I have this ph down stuff but I have zero experience in adjusting pH

here's an update they are all looking much happie! And also growing faster

Thanks man! they atleast keeping warm but the humidity must be sky rocketing, however I haven’t been monitoring so just rolling with the punches for now, just got a nice big strong fan in there for now

The babies a promised. Inhouse and Ethos. The litlle white wedding is a monster.. The bottom right is a appliscious..

2 weeks today, will be doing the top dress today/tomorrow.

So the shock continues. Not only did 2 beans not pop the ones that did are sickly. This screwed up our germination rate. These Are such a bad representation of Ethos genetics.! Below some pics. Popped 5 of Tyrone's SSC's and al 5 germed in 3 days straight into FF Seed starter. R20 a bean. 2.5k down the drain. I must say that disappointment is running high. Below the SSC. Most of our genetics are Ethos and of the 20 popped the last few weeks these 5 from Trophy is a disgrace. On a more positive note. Below some Gorilla Glue #4, Mamosa, Velvet Underground,Boo Berry and Catalina Wine Mixer. Mamosa GG#4 Boo Berry CWM Velvet Undergrounnd (Monster)

The Psycho is correct . I would suggest downloading a PAR meter app that measures your light in PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) and DLi. - ("Daily Light Integral." is a metric used to quantify the total amount of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) received by a plant over the course of a day. DLi is often expressed in units of moles of photons per square meter per day (mol/m²/day).) (Google play store, search for PPFD Meter) Distance all depends on what readings you get, that sorted me out, and this is the advice I got to narrow down my tip burn issues. Chlorosis of leaf tips, aka tip burn, It is a common issue and can be caused by several factors: Nutrient imbalances: Imbalances in essential nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, or potassium, can lead to tip burn in cannabis leaves. These imbalances can occur due to over-fertilization, improper pH levels, or poor nutrient uptake by the roots. Excessive fertilizer or nutrient concentration: Using too much fertilizer or nutrient solution, especially those high in salts, can result in tip burn. The excessive salt buildup can interfere with nutrient absorption and cause damage to the leaf tips. Environmental factors: High temperatures, especially when combined with low humidity, can lead to moisture stress in the plant. This can disrupt the movement of water and nutrients, resulting in tip burn. Light intensity: Intense light, particularly when coupled with high temperatures, can cause leaf tips to burn. This is more likely to occur in indoor growing environments with powerful grow lights placed too close to the plants. Here are some general steps to consider: Adjust nutrient levels: Check the pH of the growing medium and ensure it falls within the appropriate range for cannabis (typically around 6.0 to 6.5) [My soil and RO is at 6.8]. Adjust nutrient concentrations and ratios according to the specific growth stage of the plants. Monitor temperature and humidity: Maintain a suitable temperature and humidity range for cannabis cultivation. Avoid excessive heat and ensure adequate airflow to prevent moisture stress. Review lighting setup: Make sure the grow lights are positioned at an appropriate distance from the plants to prevent light burn. Adjust the intensity or duration of light exposure if necessary. Flush the growing medium: If nutrient buildup is suspected, consider flushing the growing medium with pH-balanced water to remove excess salts. This can help restore nutrient uptake and alleviate tip burn. But like the Naught said, "we gona need a lot more info" but hopefully the above steps will narrow down your self-diagnoses of the issue you are having. Good luck fellow mystic

What he said ^ I put my lights at the recommended manufacturer level (40cm from canopy) at early stages, and it was too much. Raising lights should help, and helps the plants stretch as well. "Seedling Stage: For marijuana seedlings, LED grow lights should be between 24-36 inches above the plant canopy. Seedlings are delicate, and placing lighting closer can cause bleaching or stunted growth. Placing the light source at this height also avoids drying out the soil. At the seedling stage, less light intensity is best." IQ. (2021). Positioning LED Grow Lighting for All Stages of Marijuana Growth. [online] Available at: https://iq.lighting/blogs/lighting-blog/positioning-led-grow-lighting-for-all-stages-of-marijuana-growth [Accessed 2 Jul. 2023]. ‌

Hey @Simeon We gona need a lot more info Is the 400w coming from a qb configuration with all the diodes in one place that's directly above the plants (how many plants?? how far spread out?) if a bar style configuration is in use with the diodes spread out far and wide and no concentrated focus point where light is coming from it may all have an impact on the answer. what I see + what you saying = It may actually be light, cause 400w at a distance of 28cm for seedling/todlers is overkill for sure, even from a bar light - but what do you mean normal LED? Is it a floodlight? not a growlight? Gona give a long answer PAR on the leaf surface is what we focus on and it's measured in micromols per second, when measuring PAR at your canopy level you aim for round about 500micromol per second during seedling/veg stage moving all the way up as you hit late flower maxing out at just over 1000micromol per second, and then obviously as PAR increases the Kelvin Spectrum decreases, starting with higher 5000 to 6000K (white light) during seedling/veg stage and lowering all the way down to 3000K (yellow light) during flower. the reason for all this is the plant absorbs different light differently at different stages throughout its life. meaning, more light isn't always good, sometimes you got just the right amount of light but it's the wrong kind, like the spectrum is out and and and... so you pumping 400w (which is already too much) of what Kelvin? may also be out. To achieve around 500micromol (can be bit above or bit below) on your leaf surface you can still get away with round about 50w at your stage. around 5000k will be best. even a CFL with those specs will work for you right now. I focus on the light first, cause that's what you asked about, but with all that was just said, I actually saw something completely different right off the bat. Cannabis plants are so much more flexible with their environmental conditions above ground that you can really manipulate and do all kinds of crazy stuff with them above ground, as long as below the ground everythings as it should be. You can just raise your light a little and all should be fine in that regard, IF everything below the soil is fine. First gotta ask if it's an auto or photoperiod plant? Autos stress when you fart near them, any kinda stress will have greater impact. I would say your stress is root zone related by the looks of it, usually the worst time to deal with achieving perfect moisture levels is during seeling stage. Big plant you can over water and under water - no biggy. With seedlings just a few drops of water extra or too few drops of water can be a killer, too long wet without dry period can be a killer, too little oxygen by the roots can be a killer...a good estimated 90% the time when a plant dies of pythium (root rot) is during seedling stage. at that stage we just call it drowing/suffocating a baby. pythium happens a lot in hydro setups that have poor oxygen in the water, but in all cases seedlings are more susceptible to any kinda undesirable conditions. Anyway, looking at your photos, it looks like you're in pure coco? correct me if I am wrong here. It seems completely saturated. Back to - we gona need a lot more info - what's your watering regime? what kinda water you using? what are your other environmental conditions like (eg. FAE allows stable RH for plant media to not stay saturated for too long, if you water and plant stays wet for a week something is wrong) do you let the soil dry before watering? do you use nutrients at all and what kind? (synthetic / organic) do you water/feed till runoff? do you pour the runoff out or let the plant soak up runoff?

They looking awesome, how you managing the temperatures and humidity in their?

Well, 3 of the 5 replacements germed. Now to see how they turn out.. They were germed with 5 more Ethos beans. By the way they were InHouse and not Ethos. Had it wrong. All the Ethos girls germed. I would say those Inhouse beans could have been stored wrong. The seedlings seem a bit off but they will be given time. It's really the first time in a long time that I struggle with seedling like this. I have germed Swazi beans that are more that 14 years old and never saw the inside of a fridge. So seed storing necer really bugged me but with this... Well I'm not convinced.. Will update with some pics soon. ✌

This is the reason I only buy regular seeds. If all else fails you hopefully get a male and a female and you can just make more.

This is why i decided to try and make my own seeds. They kak skelm

200 R for a seed is just to much for most SA growers. Most, I mean 99.9% ^^ So those seeds sit around a long time... if you buy expensive genetics.. OK.. is just mid range would see to get it directly.. not for the cheaper price.. more for seed freshness. The older the seeds.. the less unlikely they sprout. I had 3 year old Dutch premium genetics... just germinated them... 5 critical autos, 5 GSC autos. 4/5 critical sprouted... 0/5 GSC, same plate, same climate conditions. Just looked at a clone cutting ^^ 10k$US.. so over 190'000 Rand no worries.. just looking hehehehe

Bummer about the seeds dude. I have been hearing a lot of similar things regarding Ethos in general. Probably not the fault of Ethos, I think somewhere during the supply chain a batch of seeds must've spoiled.