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Already July.. so a bit a disaster report The Hella Jelly's are not done after 7 weeks of flower.. what a surprise but.. also had some weird light flower times. Plant structure is top, strong and decent node spacing. Haven't done pics yet.. they are also surprisingly PM resistant. Clones... yeah, I have found my way to run clones.. no pots works awesome! With a uninterrupted ventilation, I would have jumped in circles to express my joy They are not done.. that is visible.. but they also love to form rather big mains with unlimited root space. Planted them in the 1.2x1.2 tray and left them alone. Using 2 nets to keep em up, but the nets got installed before I put the clones. I just dump 20 liter at a time into the tray to water the plants. It makes sense to leave the 4 corner plants out, they can run into dry issues. I used 6 to 8 clones per row, 6-8 rows. Depends a bit how the clones grow and how many you can place. Experience will show you. JetFuel Can't control PM when there is only 2 hours of power in a 12 hours time span.. so they get washed, no option really, PM rather harsh in that tent.. more surprising how good the Hella Jelly's are resisting. I post some pics of those soon, busy day ^^

It’s a soil issue. Always start with a good soil. It solves most issues. Over wAtering

Plants already looking much better brother! Just double checking, you say it's the first time growing autos, so I am assuming you grown photoperiods before? What made you go with autos this time? These last 2 to 3 years I have seen a massive influx of new growers going straight for growing autos. what is this all about? Growing autos is playing the game on expert mode, it really isn't for the beginners. I've been growing serious for about 5 years, but growing on and off for most of my life, never even tried an auto as I am 100% sure I'll fuck it up and even if I don't and get a perfect grow I'll still yield less than that same plant as a photoperiod PLUS I can clone photos so I don't completely waste money by having an underwhelming harvest, autos are one and done seeds, PLUS with photoperiods you can make fuckups and turn it all around, autos don't play way. PLUS photoperiods you can repot and fuck with the roots and change soil when you like and and and...... Makes the next bit so much harder, as someone already suggested you repot them, I was going to suggest that too, but they're autos..... some of the auto experts may have to jump in here, your best bet would probably be to continue on just like this, no repot, but always aim for 50% moisture in the soil. This is gona be tricky, coco doesn't wana dry out ever, it'll become negatively charged and basically become hydrophobic, coco needs to be kept wet at all times with your plants being in pure coco it seems logged and struggling for oxygen, you can't really open up the soil and add perite now, bit too late. so you have to now back off with the watering, BUT not let it dry out too far. around 50% moisture is when you water, but then you only water about 3 to 10% of the amount of the media (eg. 10L pot = 300ml to 1L, obviously depending on size of plant, small plant gets more around 300ml and big plant more around 1L, if 1L gets sucked up in less than 24hrs it's time to repot as plants are rootbound). If at any point your plant media doesn't go below 50% moisture in 24hrs it means you giving too much water. You aim for the 50% mark and aim to keep it there by giving minimal water every day. Your biggest problem right now is over saturated media and because of that also a lack of oxygen. Let them dry till around 50% moisture. Next watering you gona need to add organic material and microbes. Get some nice good quality wormcastings (not the first and cheapest bag you can find) for a topdress and any kinda microbial inoculant. Then look into a good nutrient line for that soil you got going there, but for future - If you new to soil building it's good to get some premium soil for your first grow as a control to see how things should look, also once done with the grow you got a good blend for a base to build on, you'll be left with a coco/perlite/organic blend that you just need to reamend, instead of having to building from zero as I am sure you have now seen that it's not as straight forward and that composition, texture and consistency all play a huge roll in soil building. eg. what you use to aerate, perlite and leca do the same thing, though there are different kinds and one works better than the rest, small details like this make huge impact in your soil, same as what kind of coco you using (cheap coco will give you what you pay for) so next time you're out of some ingredients, rather than shruggin your shoulders and thinking the plant has to listen to you and be happy with what you give it, instead you gotta think about the plant first and what it needs to be happy and what you need to do to make that happen. rather stand back, don't be in a hurry, makes for a much better experience over all. Just haaaaaave to say this - These two things you got here are doing you more harm than good - The 3way meter is helping you "van die wal af tot in die sloot". that thing will misslead you worse than the SA government. You can trust the moisture reading, then there's the light/dark thing..... so they could have just made it a single prong, they're out there too, but then again the PH reader is the most important part. I used to have one, can guarentee I fucked myself more than anything using that thing. Got proper bluelabs pens now, compared the two, where the blue labs gave 7.5ph reading, the prongs gave a 2. waaaaayy out. Thought both the things I'm using is wrong to a degree, had a buddy bring his ph pen, plus I bought the ph-reader drops - 3 readings giving 7.5 range and the prongs giving 2 still. on the way to the bin I broke the thing in pieces so no one goes digging in my trash thinking that's a good device to use. a good rule of thumb with the majority of tech stuff, the more that one appliance can do generally means the more gimmicky the thing is. You get digital PH readers that can also read the ppm and and and.... trust me, those aren't accurate either. they're more accurate for sure, but with PH where 0.1/0.2 can make a difference you really don't wana leave any room for mistakes. - never buy a mini fridge with a built in dvd player that can also toast your bread. you buy a fridge seperate, a dvd player seperate and a toaster seperate. good ph pen will cost you a bit, I can go on and on till I am blue in the face, but you can do the test yourself. get 2 people with cheapies that can do ph and ppm, then get 2 guys with proper tools, you can run the tests yourself and see why I would cough up a couple 1000 more just to have the good tools. The ph down is for hydro growers, if you're in an organic setup you use organic inputs to control ph (bakin soda for ph up and vinegar for ph down) though you basically never want to do this it will only be the last resort when your soil media is locked in an undesired ph range. Using this chemical ph down with organic media is a bit counter-intuitive as this stuff kills microbes, and microbes are looked at as the "nucleus" of organic growing. The straw that stirs the drink.

I honestly think I am just lucky when it comes to the strains/genetics. I got the ZxP from a pack of 3 seeds of which only 1 grew, so there was zero pheno hunting. I have grown it now for more than two solid years. I just kept cloning before switching to flower to preserve the strain. Now with the new genetics I try keep an original mother plant that I bonsai and take clones from. I'll pop the seeds, clone before flowering, keep the clones until I've cured the buds and then do the final selection. Most times though I can get a really good idea of which plants I can shortlist by the time I harvest, considering the way the plants grew up until that point.

Hello bud I would stop using The ph down for now, until you can get a digital ph meter and guarantee the levels, For now I recon the plants are hungry and need some whole food, kelpak wont necessarily be enough, I’ve been having the same issue with very light soil I put together. Was with seedlings I sprouted in really light soil I put together unintentionally. Best fix would be to put them in new soil, but if you cant, start feeding, molasses or fish, any veg type nutrient you can find. good luck

Hi there! I see comments only from experienced smokers, so I created a separate thread ahah I'm new to everything. That's why I'm here, to learn a lot from experienced growers Hope for support:)

Glad to see the plants looking better. One thing, if you are really planning on transplanting them I would do it asap. Autos are on a timer and the plant needs time to spread its root while still in veg phase. How old are they? Autos usually start flowering week 4-5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

very unfortunate when these things happen, growing indoor is so very hard. Well atleast that strain looks like a nice strong plant however

New to everything:) Peace and love

Tnx allot for all the support and tips I will definitely try that thing with the watter and I actually have my own worm bin with a tap at the bottom for worm tea will that work as a feed? I am allso growing my own moringa because I want to try this thing where I feed my worms with moringa leaf powder since its the most nutrient dense thing out there and then inturn get some extremely nutrient dense worm casting and worm tea. I read somewhere that moringa leaf power works so well as fertilizer you can use it as a kelp replacement if you want to The other day I visited this place in a forest where we go sometimes to have some fun and I found this place with huge oak trees and under it a very thick canopy of leaves and under those leaves I found this pitch black soil that looks soooo good and so I had to come back and collect a few dog food baggs full of that good stuff so maybe I can use that as a top dressing?? Maybe ill test it first on some other plants

Awesome, glad you didn't use that ph stuff Now you just let them dry out till around 50% moisture (you can still use the probe thing for that) Once they reach better moisture levels and not stunted anymore they'll start to pick up speed, you'll notice the moisture levels in the soil fluctuating a lot more as the plant starts to grow faster and drinking more and more. Pro tip for these cold times, especially with smaller pots - I got a small fish tank air pump to aerate my water, also got filter water here, but I catch rain water when I can and it's been pouring down like a bitch down here so I got a lot now, but with it standing outside it gets cold as piss and even that'll stunt your plants, the smaller the plant the more affected by the cold, what I do is take a 20L bucket, fill it half way as I would with the filter water, but together with a fishtank airstone I submerge a fishtank heater to warm the water up to 30°C. your plants will do a happy dance for you The reason we saying get ready with the feed stuff is, well you can grow that plant in very low nutrient soil with just water all the way through but the plant will have a shit expression. You gotta be on your toes now, not to just feed the plant or pump as much nutes in it, but rather to maintain the balance ahead of time so the plant never reaches a point of having to show you that it needs something, while also not overdoing it Relying on bottled nutes, some people do it, but it's basically just a matter of time before you hit an imbalance. There is no single one nutrient to do it all on this earth, no product any man could ever make and put into a bottle would be "good enough" to maintain a natural balance. and we gotta remind ourself plants aren't machines so they don't act the way we program them, it's the other way around. They all eat different, one plant will use more N than the one next to it, as for the P and the K and all the rest. that's why when relying on bottled nutes you end up with a whole collection of 100 different bottles, couple R1000 deep. when the problem is actually just balancing the soil before even thinking of bottled nutes. You can get a nice balance with wormcastings, but then you gotta look at the quality of the worm casting too. I used to get the Wormbusch stuff but last couple times I got from them it was like 60% sand and looked absolutely nothing like wormcastings, so certain reputable brands aren't even consistent... I make my own worm castings now, so I don't know who got the best stuff these days. I would actually recommend Dirty Hands Elemental Blend as a top dress over anything, but if you can only do wormcastings then you can lean more on that, rather than the bottle stuff. What wormcastings you using? Sometimes best to use more than one kind of wormcasting to hit a wider variety of trace minerals and micro organisms. those are the balance keepers. you'll see once the balance is in check your NPK uptake becomes so easy to monitor, plant will already be thriving cause of the soil conditions and then only as the plant is eating and growing like a healthy plant should, you can give the bottle stuff that focuses more on the NPK and will keep up with the demands as the plant will be depleting the soil of those first. this is gona be tricky, I wish you goodluck bro it's hit or miss anyway, like with any rule of thumb, it's not to say things will go wrong every single time.

Oh and Im planning on very very carefully reporting them into my greenhouse where I have holes in the ground prepared with a 1coco/1compost/1perlite soil mix I am just germinating and growing them inside until they are strong enough to move outside and I will repot them as soon as there roots are well enough established when I repot I do it in such a way that the plants don't even realise something changed no disturbance of the roots

I've been a Ripper Seeds whore through and through for a long while now, all my strains are Ripper Seeds. I would like way more space and plants to do selections for breeding. I will leave it to the experts for now I actually want to buy something new soon for after my one small tent is done. I have the opportunity and space.

Waw okay luckily I haven't used the ph down and I had a feeling I can't trust that pH metre so I didn't do anything to bring the ph down as for the watering I will do as you say I can start feeding the plants now with this fertilizer I have but how can you tell there hungry? And to answer your question about why autos I have bin growing on and off for like 6 years photoperiod outdoor but I didn't realy have any help or knowledge it was basically all trial and error and now I have registered to become a grower for this company called grow one Africa and im trying to generate a small yet constant income for myself using autos instead of getting one big yield per year but yea I'm not growing just to get paid I have areal passion for cultivating the plant and I l love the idea of organic and natural farming and micro organisms

Agreed. Stopped pH'ing organic soil/nutrients and it was probably the best organic run I ever did.

Oh shit yeah then you are lucky, but I do have to say that you're selecting good breeders too Have you ever tried, or thought of trying any Biltong and Buds, Victory Seeds, Bulk Seedbank or any of the more generic cheaper seeds? Reason I am asking is cause I've seen guys doing their first run with some biltong and buds seeds and hit a winner right off the bat, but I've been through quite a number of these cheaper seeds only to end up with pure It certainly is all about the luck of the draw, but the chances of luck goes way up when selecting the right breeders too. You plan to make any of your own seeds with those genetics you collecting?

Some cheeky pics. Harvest window ETA is in about a week ie. ~7 July. All the same strain, but some variance between the plants The frost is at least looking clean. It smells great! The bud is pretty leafy though. Trim time is longer but there's always plenty sugar trim for other things.

Thanks man! they atleast keeping warm but the humidity must be sky rocketing, however I haven’t been monitoring so just rolling with the punches for now, just got a nice big strong fan in there for now

45 days since flip to flower. Getting some fade on some plants but also a colour shift on others I am starting to experience more variance from this strain. Making me suspicious. Could this be what they call genetic variance? I've been cloning the shit out of this strain now for three years and only really started keeping a mother plant recently. Up until then I just took clones before flipping the tent. I had a feeling in my bones to prepare for such an event and that's why I did the organic tent above with new strains (Radical Juice + Zombie Bride). Honestly the Radical Juice claps me too hard, like it makes me uncomfortable, especially the chosen pheno that at this point is already all gone. The people love to use it, but it isn't for me. The Zombie Bride is way more mellow and something I personally enjoy toking anytime of day. Doesn't get you too monged, can wake and bake with it, and it comes down to a chill vibe. It'd be a bleak day chopping the ZxP.