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Aweh gromies, Seems a quiet time for outdoor organics. But the growing never stopped round our parts. Jars are full of summer flavours maturing gracefully. Playing around with some subtle winter terps...just because. Growbeds been put to rest with a few green and brown layers, woodash and aged manure. Multiple AACT applications should help things along. Enjoy the growing.

Been doing some testing on the feminized seeds I made. Really happy with the vigor considering the lower temperatures. 7 June 6 July

Local is lekker ne !!

I read that that could happen and so the day after spraying the neem and seeing my poor plant in that state I tried rinsing it off but its just strange to me that all the other plants that allso got neem is fine

Second to harvesting the prep phase is probably my favourite, also most important! Starting a new thread, that's up to you I guess if you like things organized and just wana make it easier for people to find certain info through searches instead of seeing an introduction thread people won't really think there's much usefull info in the thread, but if you make a new thread that relates more to the topic of questions you wana ask it'll just be easier to spot for people looking for some info. also probably depends on if it's just a couple of questions or like ongoing conversation, but yeah still up to you we still reply no matter the thread topic I would vote for indoor, but I see lots of indoor growers going back outdoors as SA is such a lovely place to be in with all the loadshedding buttfuckery, at least we have good sun! Just not good time right now to start outdoor grow as it's flower season till September/October.

Thx I'm planning to grow soon and preparing everything for it. I ordered feminized marijuana seeds for the first time (it was most recommended), but now I have doubts about the location. I can grow both outdoors and indoors, but there are certain nuances... Can I ask here for advice or better to find another thread?

Welcomefellow mystic May your journey be an awesome one!

Welcome Got any grows going at the moment?

Well... They viable. At it again Tap roots showed in 24 hrs and a additional 3 days to sprout. This time TA tripart and 70/30 coco pearl Testing 5L plastic pots with the intent of keeping them small From what I've seen. 5L fabric pots still produce fairly large plants

Picked up a couple of auto seeds from the expos a while back. As the phots are finishing up let’s start one of each. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi there! I see comments only from experienced smokers, so I created a separate thread ahah I'm new to everything. That's why I'm here, to learn a lot from experienced growers Hope for support:)

With regards to the curling leaves, a user in this thread experienced the same issues with neem and leaf curling. As per that thread, just to quote " I think the oil is clogging pores and preventing from transpiring". Could be that, but someone more experienced will need to confirm. I didn't even know plants had "pores" needed to transpire, and haven't used Neem Oil myself. Edit: Even with this Reddit thread about Neem and houseplant leaf curling, ""...oil can block the pores on plants causing leaf curl." The general advice it seems is to spray at night or after sunset.

I sprayed it during the day but I think your right because this is my only sativa girl its actually a fruity pebbles bag seed from some exceptionally good but from 6years ago that I found in my friends seed collection

6 July Update My two Critical Auto shrubs (lol) are doing well. The buds have really fattened, and the smell is good. Very sticky. I haven't even seen any more seeds, which makes me happy. The canopy is very dense due to short and stocky nature of the plant caused by my overtraining, so I'm constantly monitoring for bud-rot. Humidity is controlled though, 39-45% RH, so no issues yet. These two little bushes are about 9 or 10 days away from their 11 weeks life cycle coming to an end. As for the other 3 younger plants which are a week or two behind, I took off 90% of the tie-downs, as to avoid the same overtraining. They have really responded well, and I've seen some explosive stretching. What I found interesting, is that one of the bud sites split into two at the top. Mutation? idk xD And just because, here is a photo of the tent in its entirety:

II have now transplanted all my autos into my greenhouse and they are looking happy so far but I've run into another problem now with one of my other plantsthe leaves started curling up and even twisting this plant was healthy and no sines of any stress the only thing that it could be is neem oil on it because I had problems with red spider mite and white fly that I was fighting off with eco buzz best pro but it didn't seem to help for the mite so I got my self some "bioneem"from biogrow and I sprayed that on but all my other plants seem to be fine only this one looking like this

Awesome! I'm excited to see what you gona do there's a lot of hype around the local breeders, I see a lot of their stuff on instagram and it looks like some local guys giving the US breeders a run for their money! Some names I see - Nocturnal Genetics, Headhoncho, Black Flag, Senpai and then we all know Totemic, and there's a whole bunch more. Check out this site with all the locals https://owlsroostsa.com/bird-seed/

BnB had a special on them and I was interested in the Zkittlez part of the ZxP. The ZxP was so great I tried more of their stuff. So far I'm keeping three of their strains. Probably more Ripper Seeds but I'm not sure. Maybe even get a cut from a homie of something they are rocking. I'm open to ideas.

Aswell as this channel, you'll get ALL the answers from this guy, promise you

@Simeon check all this guys videos

Only a pleasure bud Hmmmm Short answer is no, but I may have to try explain things a little different. You see, what I was trying to get at with the wormcastings as topdress is that you wana achieve a balance, not exactly feed the plants and ontop of that any liquid feed, no matter where it comes from or how it's made, will always cover less of a spectrum of "stuff" than most wormcastings. So the worm juice is nice as a balance keeper, but again you can never look at any liquid input as the basis of your grow, not even worm juice. That's more like a compost tea, it'll just restore the balance in your soil. It's not a feed at all, neither is wormcastings. Wormcastings, worm juice and topdressings are all just "essentials" to balance your soil. Nutrient feed comes after that. It's two completely different things. The black soil you collected will surely help bring IMO to your soil, it will help, but even less than the wormcastings in the way of "feeding" your plants. I'd rather add that black soil to the worm bin and let the IMO populate like that. In small pots like you have there, with a soil media that doesn't offer much for the IMOs to stay alive, you'll be adding that black soil only to have the IMO die out anyway. You see, you can reach a point where the soil is so well balanced you can give clean water right from seed all the way through to veg, but that's really only possible if you been building, conditioning and cooking the soil before you planted. Once you have to topdress you already missed, same with feeds, and you can never topdress or add stuff to soil while you are growing in it that'll ever bring it close to a well rounded soil. Basically, by the standard of your soil demanding ongoing maintenance, because it's not a well rounded soil, it'll mean you have to way more to upkeep the plant health than a person would who made good soil to begin with. I also mentioned that there are even better stuff than wormcastings to use as a topdress, cause worm casting is just a broad spectrum fertilizer and every batch differs from the next so you don't always get the same results. The more you rely on "just one thing" the more trouble you creating for yourself. Which brings me to the next point, the moringa in the worm bin, it's an awesome addition to the worm bin for sure, but the secret is balance and diversity. moderation of everything. when you get into KNF you'll see that you even add fungal shit and all kinds of fish juice and fermented fruits and grain juices and shit. there's a saying in organic cannabis growing that goes - stink in stink out, but obviously what kinda stink? obviously not rancid sour chemical smelling stuff. It's not always what you think it is or what seems the most straight forward. If you read somewhere about moringa, that's cool, but don't focus on it. Growing a moringa tree will take kak long before you can actually harvest from it sustainably. Infact the secret to a healthy worm bin is a healthy Carbon:Nitrogen ratio, not moringa. If you focus on moringa you may throw out the carbon to nitrogen ratio and create more harm than good. Some dry amendments out there are nutrient power punch products, you take clean coco/perlite add a hand full of the stuff snd it turns the soil into rich well balanced soil, thought that's not going to be the cheapest stuff on the shelf and to use stuff that strong you reeeeeally need to be ontop of your game, not for beginners kinda stuff.

Hahahah nice, yeah Ripper does proper work. What made you decide on them? I'm now leaning towards upping plant count in my small space and downscaling plant size, been itching to get a breeding project going more focussed on the craft than the seeds, but yeah space always the limiting factor. yeyeyeee what you got planned?

Glad to see the plants looking better. One thing, if you are really planning on transplanting them I would do it asap. Autos are on a timer and the plant needs time to spread its root while still in veg phase. How old are they? Autos usually start flowering week 4-5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

very unfortunate when these things happen, growing indoor is so very hard. Well atleast that strain looks like a nice strong plant however

Already July.. so a bit a disaster report The Hella Jelly's are not done after 7 weeks of flower.. what a surprise but.. also had some weird light flower times. Plant structure is top, strong and decent node spacing. Haven't done pics yet.. they are also surprisingly PM resistant. Clones... yeah, I have found my way to run clones.. no pots works awesome! With a uninterrupted ventilation, I would have jumped in circles to express my joy They are not done.. that is visible.. but they also love to form rather big mains with unlimited root space. Planted them in the 1.2x1.2 tray and left them alone. Using 2 nets to keep em up, but the nets got installed before I put the clones. I just dump 20 liter at a time into the tray to water the plants. It makes sense to leave the 4 corner plants out, they can run into dry issues. I used 6 to 8 clones per row, 6-8 rows. Depends a bit how the clones grow and how many you can place. Experience will show you. JetFuel Can't control PM when there is only 2 hours of power in a 12 hours time span.. so they get washed, no option really, PM rather harsh in that tent.. more surprising how good the Hella Jelly's are resisting. I post some pics of those soon, busy day ^^

Tnx allot for all the support and tips I will definitely try that thing with the watter and I actually have my own worm bin with a tap at the bottom for worm tea will that work as a feed? I am allso growing my own moringa because I want to try this thing where I feed my worms with moringa leaf powder since its the most nutrient dense thing out there and then inturn get some extremely nutrient dense worm casting and worm tea. I read somewhere that moringa leaf power works so well as fertilizer you can use it as a kelp replacement if you want to The other day I visited this place in a forest where we go sometimes to have some fun and I found this place with huge oak trees and under it a very thick canopy of leaves and under those leaves I found this pitch black soil that looks soooo good and so I had to come back and collect a few dog food baggs full of that good stuff so maybe I can use that as a top dressing?? Maybe ill test it first on some other plants

Awesome, glad you didn't use that ph stuff Now you just let them dry out till around 50% moisture (you can still use the probe thing for that) Once they reach better moisture levels and not stunted anymore they'll start to pick up speed, you'll notice the moisture levels in the soil fluctuating a lot more as the plant starts to grow faster and drinking more and more. Pro tip for these cold times, especially with smaller pots - I got a small fish tank air pump to aerate my water, also got filter water here, but I catch rain water when I can and it's been pouring down like a bitch down here so I got a lot now, but with it standing outside it gets cold as piss and even that'll stunt your plants, the smaller the plant the more affected by the cold, what I do is take a 20L bucket, fill it half way as I would with the filter water, but together with a fishtank airstone I submerge a fishtank heater to warm the water up to 30°C. your plants will do a happy dance for you The reason we saying get ready with the feed stuff is, well you can grow that plant in very low nutrient soil with just water all the way through but the plant will have a shit expression. You gotta be on your toes now, not to just feed the plant or pump as much nutes in it, but rather to maintain the balance ahead of time so the plant never reaches a point of having to show you that it needs something, while also not overdoing it Relying on bottled nutes, some people do it, but it's basically just a matter of time before you hit an imbalance. There is no single one nutrient to do it all on this earth, no product any man could ever make and put into a bottle would be "good enough" to maintain a natural balance. and we gotta remind ourself plants aren't machines so they don't act the way we program them, it's the other way around. They all eat different, one plant will use more N than the one next to it, as for the P and the K and all the rest. that's why when relying on bottled nutes you end up with a whole collection of 100 different bottles, couple R1000 deep. when the problem is actually just balancing the soil before even thinking of bottled nutes. You can get a nice balance with wormcastings, but then you gotta look at the quality of the worm casting too. I used to get the Wormbusch stuff but last couple times I got from them it was like 60% sand and looked absolutely nothing like wormcastings, so certain reputable brands aren't even consistent... I make my own worm castings now, so I don't know who got the best stuff these days. I would actually recommend Dirty Hands Elemental Blend as a top dress over anything, but if you can only do wormcastings then you can lean more on that, rather than the bottle stuff. What wormcastings you using? Sometimes best to use more than one kind of wormcasting to hit a wider variety of trace minerals and micro organisms. those are the balance keepers. you'll see once the balance is in check your NPK uptake becomes so easy to monitor, plant will already be thriving cause of the soil conditions and then only as the plant is eating and growing like a healthy plant should, you can give the bottle stuff that focuses more on the NPK and will keep up with the demands as the plant will be depleting the soil of those first. this is gona be tricky, I wish you goodluck bro it's hit or miss anyway, like with any rule of thumb, it's not to say things will go wrong every single time.

Oh and Im planning on very very carefully reporting them into my greenhouse where I have holes in the ground prepared with a 1coco/1compost/1perlite soil mix I am just germinating and growing them inside until they are strong enough to move outside and I will repot them as soon as there roots are well enough established when I repot I do it in such a way that the plants don't even realise something changed no disturbance of the roots

I've been a Ripper Seeds whore through and through for a long while now, all my strains are Ripper Seeds. I would like way more space and plants to do selections for breeding. I will leave it to the experts for now I actually want to buy something new soon for after my one small tent is done. I have the opportunity and space.

Waw okay luckily I haven't used the ph down and I had a feeling I can't trust that pH metre so I didn't do anything to bring the ph down as for the watering I will do as you say I can start feeding the plants now with this fertilizer I have but how can you tell there hungry? And to answer your question about why autos I have bin growing on and off for like 6 years photoperiod outdoor but I didn't realy have any help or knowledge it was basically all trial and error and now I have registered to become a grower for this company called grow one Africa and im trying to generate a small yet constant income for myself using autos instead of getting one big yield per year but yea I'm not growing just to get paid I have areal passion for cultivating the plant and I l love the idea of organic and natural farming and micro organisms

Agreed. Stopped pH'ing organic soil/nutrients and it was probably the best organic run I ever did.

Oh shit yeah then you are lucky, but I do have to say that you're selecting good breeders too Have you ever tried, or thought of trying any Biltong and Buds, Victory Seeds, Bulk Seedbank or any of the more generic cheaper seeds? Reason I am asking is cause I've seen guys doing their first run with some biltong and buds seeds and hit a winner right off the bat, but I've been through quite a number of these cheaper seeds only to end up with pure It certainly is all about the luck of the draw, but the chances of luck goes way up when selecting the right breeders too. You plan to make any of your own seeds with those genetics you collecting?

Plants already looking much better brother! Just double checking, you say it's the first time growing autos, so I am assuming you grown photoperiods before? What made you go with autos this time? These last 2 to 3 years I have seen a massive influx of new growers going straight for growing autos. what is this all about? Growing autos is playing the game on expert mode, it really isn't for the beginners. I've been growing serious for about 5 years, but growing on and off for most of my life, never even tried an auto as I am 100% sure I'll fuck it up and even if I don't and get a perfect grow I'll still yield less than that same plant as a photoperiod PLUS I can clone photos so I don't completely waste money by having an underwhelming harvest, autos are one and done seeds, PLUS with photoperiods you can make fuckups and turn it all around, autos don't play way. PLUS photoperiods you can repot and fuck with the roots and change soil when you like and and and...... Makes the next bit so much harder, as someone already suggested you repot them, I was going to suggest that too, but they're autos..... some of the auto experts may have to jump in here, your best bet would probably be to continue on just like this, no repot, but always aim for 50% moisture in the soil. This is gona be tricky, coco doesn't wana dry out ever, it'll become negatively charged and basically become hydrophobic, coco needs to be kept wet at all times with your plants being in pure coco it seems logged and struggling for oxygen, you can't really open up the soil and add perite now, bit too late. so you have to now back off with the watering, BUT not let it dry out too far. around 50% moisture is when you water, but then you only water about 3 to 10% of the amount of the media (eg. 10L pot = 300ml to 1L, obviously depending on size of plant, small plant gets more around 300ml and big plant more around 1L, if 1L gets sucked up in less than 24hrs it's time to repot as plants are rootbound). If at any point your plant media doesn't go below 50% moisture in 24hrs it means you giving too much water. You aim for the 50% mark and aim to keep it there by giving minimal water every day. Your biggest problem right now is over saturated media and because of that also a lack of oxygen. Let them dry till around 50% moisture. Next watering you gona need to add organic material and microbes. Get some nice good quality wormcastings (not the first and cheapest bag you can find) for a topdress and any kinda microbial inoculant. Then look into a good nutrient line for that soil you got going there, but for future - If you new to soil building it's good to get some premium soil for your first grow as a control to see how things should look, also once done with the grow you got a good blend for a base to build on, you'll be left with a coco/perlite/organic blend that you just need to reamend, instead of having to building from zero as I am sure you have now seen that it's not as straight forward and that composition, texture and consistency all play a huge roll in soil building. eg. what you use to aerate, perlite and leca do the same thing, though there are different kinds and one works better than the rest, small details like this make huge impact in your soil, same as what kind of coco you using (cheap coco will give you what you pay for) so next time you're out of some ingredients, rather than shruggin your shoulders and thinking the plant has to listen to you and be happy with what you give it, instead you gotta think about the plant first and what it needs to be happy and what you need to do to make that happen. rather stand back, don't be in a hurry, makes for a much better experience over all. Just haaaaaave to say this - These two things you got here are doing you more harm than good - The 3way meter is helping you "van die wal af tot in die sloot". that thing will misslead you worse than the SA government. You can trust the moisture reading, then there's the light/dark thing..... so they could have just made it a single prong, they're out there too, but then again the PH reader is the most important part. I used to have one, can guarentee I fucked myself more than anything using that thing. Got proper bluelabs pens now, compared the two, where the blue labs gave 7.5ph reading, the prongs gave a 2. waaaaayy out. Thought both the things I'm using is wrong to a degree, had a buddy bring his ph pen, plus I bought the ph-reader drops - 3 readings giving 7.5 range and the prongs giving 2 still. on the way to the bin I broke the thing in pieces so no one goes digging in my trash thinking that's a good device to use. a good rule of thumb with the majority of tech stuff, the more that one appliance can do generally means the more gimmicky the thing is. You get digital PH readers that can also read the ppm and and and.... trust me, those aren't accurate either. they're more accurate for sure, but with PH where 0.1/0.2 can make a difference you really don't wana leave any room for mistakes. - never buy a mini fridge with a built in dvd player that can also toast your bread. you buy a fridge seperate, a dvd player seperate and a toaster seperate. good ph pen will cost you a bit, I can go on and on till I am blue in the face, but you can do the test yourself. get 2 people with cheapies that can do ph and ppm, then get 2 guys with proper tools, you can run the tests yourself and see why I would cough up a couple 1000 more just to have the good tools. The ph down is for hydro growers, if you're in an organic setup you use organic inputs to control ph (bakin soda for ph up and vinegar for ph down) though you basically never want to do this it will only be the last resort when your soil media is locked in an undesired ph range. Using this chemical ph down with organic media is a bit counter-intuitive as this stuff kills microbes, and microbes are looked at as the "nucleus" of organic growing. The straw that stirs the drink.

It’s a soil issue. Always start with a good soil. It solves most issues. Over wAtering

I honestly think I am just lucky when it comes to the strains/genetics. I got the ZxP from a pack of 3 seeds of which only 1 grew, so there was zero pheno hunting. I have grown it now for more than two solid years. I just kept cloning before switching to flower to preserve the strain. Now with the new genetics I try keep an original mother plant that I bonsai and take clones from. I'll pop the seeds, clone before flowering, keep the clones until I've cured the buds and then do the final selection. Most times though I can get a really good idea of which plants I can shortlist by the time I harvest, considering the way the plants grew up until that point.

I keep missing whole threads Plants are looking great man, excited to see how they turn out!! Wish I knew about this back in 2018. My first time buying "reputable" seeds was from Trophy. All seeds in Trophy tins with a paper inside and the seed info hand written on the paper. Went from over excited to blood boiling as all I have been hearing is the first dodgy activity to look out for when buying seeds is that it should be sealed in the breeder packs. Got Ethos, Barneys Farm, Dutch Passion and Seedsman. Contacted them, they asured me if I buy 10xseed packs I get original breeder packaging, but cause they're singles they have to open bulk packs and repackage them. Couldn't argue that till I saw what the weed looked like, the seeds I carried through to harvest turned out to be legit without a doubt so I always gave them good word of mouth. Out of 9 seeds only 2 of the Ethos didn't pop. Scrapped up the duds to my own level of experience, since it was my first time working with seeds that came from somewhere else in the world, I convinced myself the more expensive seeds demand for more maticulous environmental conditions, cause of their higher standards they been getting used to in the breeders setup. I should have just asked for replacements

The babies a promised. Inhouse and Ethos. The litlle white wedding is a monster.. The bottom right is a appliscious..

aaaaah brother I am sorry to hear that. at least you still yielding and gona have some smoke to enjoy yeah, now it's about narrowing down the possibilities of what could lead to this. do you see nanners or just seeds? a plant wont go directly to making seeds from stress, needs pollen to start that process, hemie will throw ball sacs like males, those ball sacs are nanners that haven't opened. if you don't see any signs of hermie then the pollen is coming from somewhere else. remember tents with negative pressure suck dust in, so if any stray pollen is in the air or on you or your clothes when going into the then you could knock up indoor plants. - when your tent is closed and the sides suck in =negative pressure. people combat this by closing all passive intakes and running the same size inline fan into the tent as going out to keep a possitive pressure, but then you gotta filter the air intake with a carbon filter as pollen still gets through normal air filters. I am glad you mention the L/HST, because any kinda stress is 10 fold on a auto, just cause you see or hear of one guy stressing an auto and it doesn't make seeds doesn't mean that will be in all cases. like the dude with the auto that showed you he trained his so yours should be fine, that's just not the way the plants work. the general consensus on autos - to get the best out of them you don't stress them- so a double negative here is that potentially if that dude didn't stress his he might have had even better results, and the other being what I mentioned before about the exception doesn't make the rule, the guy who stresses his and gets away with it is an exception, doesn't mean all autos will be fine with the same treatment. if you see hermie/nanner signs and it's confined to one branch or bud or area of the plant = stray light if you see hermie/nanner signs all over the plant it's light intensity, usually it'll be more at the top sites. in both situations it could also be something else. the reason a plant will try to revert in order to reproduce is because it feels threatened enough to have to forcefully make more of itself to carry on it's lineage. this could be rootzone related problems, a plants rhizosphere is like the gut of a human, when talking human microbiome it refers to your gut health, when talking plant microbiome you talking rootzone, if the microbiome is out of balance, meaning PH is off for too long or EC is way out you may cause a plant to hermie that way. rootburn during flower caused by salt build up will lead to nutrient lockout and cause this too... so many things to look at and tick off, but luckily now you already got stray lights sorted out.

Those are some lekker trees bru! Caging wouldve saved you loads of tears. Anything over 6ft, caging is a must.

Aweh gromies.... Been having a blimmen rollecoaster ride this season so far. We just had almost 2 weeks of nonstop rain, heavy downpours mixed with light drizzle. Lost the CBG, Seedsman CBD, Swazi and Purple bud to snapped main stems and wind damage. Luckily we've got clone backups on all but the Swazi. And the Strawberry Vostok has just developed Fusarium wilt yesterday.... will chop as soon as she shows milky. Added 4 layers to the growbeds just before the rain started, in between some calcitic lime, bonemeal and bio ocean kelp for the micros with wormtea and AACT. Added bonus was the 30 butternuts harvested from under the ladies, they have proved to be a decent cover, keeping the soil cool and moist and yielding decently. Cheers. 1-4.Strawberry Vostok 5-6. Pineapple Skunk 7-8. Vanilla Kush bag 9-10. Bushes 11. Clone station. (CBG, CBD, Pineapple Skunk, PurpleBud, Vanilla kush)