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I use TA Tripart with my grow and in all honesty I have stuck mostly to the exact quantity it specifies on the bottles. But first a disclaimer, I don't grow autos because they cost more in electricity to grow than photoperiods do, so I don't see the point to it, plus I prefer the control I have over photoperiods and I prefer the hardiness of a photoperiod over an auto. In saying that, once I have mixes the nutrient solution and added Orthosilicic Acid, Amino Acids (and sometimes a little extra calmag because I grow in coco coir), I come out at about 2.2EC during veg and 2.8EC during flower. I've even fed upwards of 3.2 EC to my plants and they been fine and healthy, I haven't encountered nutrient burn yet with the TA nutrients. I even feed my new clones I buy at 2.4EC right from the start, you really do have a lot of a breathing room with TA nutrients. How strong or how weak you feed your plants is going depend on the genetics of the plant you growing. Some genetics are happy to grown and produce decent bud on 1.4EC all the way through growth, other genetics you can literally throw the TA bottles at them and they just take it like car wash girls on a hot day. Don't get to caught up on the EC values though, rather look at the plant and see how its responding to your nutrients: - Is the leaves the right kind of healthy green or are they too light or to dark green (too little or too nitrogen)? - Are the tips of the leaves healthy or are they crisping up at all (healthy vs to much nutrients)? - Are the leaves praying or dropping? - Is the plant growing at a steady growth rate or has it slowed? (healthy roots vs a root problem) - Are there any spots or strange colours on the leaves ( nutrient deficiencies or toxicities) The leaves of the plant will tell you whether or not to increase your EC, decrease it, or leave it alone because the plants are happy.

Well... They viable. At it again Tap roots showed in 24 hrs and a additional 3 days to sprout. This time TA tripart and 70/30 coco pearl Testing 5L plastic pots with the intent of keeping them small From what I've seen. 5L fabric pots still produce fairly large plants

Congratulations!!! @Bay Seeds I see your Maverick, Top Cheese & 5th Gen Fighter are on sale MarijuanaSA's website. South African Marijuana Seeds - Marijuana SA

Outdoor season officially starts around September and ends around April. But some rules can be bent, I'm still growing outdoors in July on the northcoast, weather permitting of course. If you do plant outdoor in mother earth in September then your plants will become quite large, 3 to 4m tall. If you'd prefer something more manageble you could plant later or just plant into pots or growbags. There are a few different growing methods/techniques for cannabis. Indoor or outdoor and synthenics nutrients or organic. Cannabis can be grown in either. You'll have to decide which style suits your situation, abilities and your pocket best. What are your plans?

Thank you so much! Then I will try indoors. Can I ask one more question: when is the best time to grow outdoors? I guess I've already missed this period and now have to wait a while to try it outdoors...

Hello hello, As I have mentioned in the past, my first grow has been free of any EC measuring. But, I now got myself an EC Pen (yay). My personal understanding is as follows: EC is the % of nutrient/mineral particles in the water. The "density" I guess. EC too high, means the plant can't absorb enough or gets locked. EC too low, means the plant has to absorb more water to achieve their nutrient requirements. For flowering and ripening stages, the GHE TriPart Flora Micro recommends an EC of 1.4 - 2.2/2.6. The Bloom on the other hand recommends 1.3 - 1.7. My EC after completing my feed, ready to water, is 0.9. As per the below chart I found here on the EC article I was reading, I should be fine. This seems to ring true with me, as my plants haven't had nutrient issues besides that tiny CalMag issue at the start. I also realize that my EC is probably lower because I am feeding half/three quarters of the recommended nutrient dose on the bottle, because I'm growing autos. I'm sure that in my next photo grow, I can logically expect a higher EC as I'm using more nutrients in the feed. Should the EC become too high, then I obviously need to de-chlorinate the water with an air pump for a few hours to reduce the starting EC before adding feed. Now, my question for the more experienced growmies is as follows: How am I supposed to know what exact EC to aim for when mixing my feed. As every separate nutrient has a different recommended range. But I suppose I am answering my own question here? Its a range, and as long as its within there then it should be fine. Have any of you experienced growers encountered any EC issues, and how did you rectify it? Are my above observations accurate? Thanks in advance for your responses and insight!

You can start growing indoors and then take clones outdoors later

More like Baeseeds! I see Bayseeds on many of the local seed banks.

I haven't done anything out of the ordinary when it comes to wattering and I haven't fed the plant for the last 3 weeks up until earlyer today I gave her some food and kelp along with some worm tea

@Simeon Ayy, don't forget the claw! The claw is early onset signs of excessive N. Though the claw would sometimes be more of a "sudden bend" instead of that gradual curl. Have you been feeding the plant? Transplanted recently? Any way she's suddenly getting more nutes? The spraying during darkness is usually way waaaaayy more important than just spraying as a means to and end. I am not sure why that bit of info always gets left out, but there are 3 big reasons why it's such a no no - most spray applications, even stuff like wormjuice or compost teas are degraded by UV (this is why, with organic media the very top soil is always the least "alive", even on earths surface, most biological activity happens under the ground in complete darkness away from direct UV. this is why we can clean water using UV) so spraying organic stuff while the sun is out degrades the stuff you spray, and with organics being that sensetive you'll be surprisde to know chemical sprays are even more UV sensetive.... and in a much more sinister way. chemicals exposed to UV can turn into other chemicals... then ontop of UV degrading the applied product the droplets on the leaf surface can form a magnification effect and sun rays or light might actually burn that spot. Lastly, and I think most important there is, surfactant... let's get into it. These "pores" we talking bout, scientific name is Stomata. They're the mouth part of the plant that "inhales" and "exhales". Now when we spray, doesn't matter what we spray, we have to mix it with water. Water has a surface tention (when you have droplets on a surface the droplet will be in the form of a drop, the sides of the water is the water tention keeping it in that shape. stuff like soap and oil breaks the water tention and cause the droplet to spread out) when we spray stuff it's recommended to always add a surfactant to break the surface tention of the water. this will help coat the surface of the leafs better aswell as allow for better uptake of whatever you sprayed as it's hitting "more of the plant" instead of forming droplets and leaving residue on the leaves with a potential to burn, residue means it was too much for the plant to uptake. now, surfactant makes whatever you spray more oily and that's a good thing. not a bad thing. so I am a bit hesitant to believe that the oil part of the neem oil is not allowing the plant to breathe. I am religious bout my neem spray, always got full organic surfactant and only spray in complete darkness, none of my plants have ever shown this reaction. Once took a plant from a buddy, didn't see the spider mites till it was on my property, kept her in quarantine, hit her with neem one week, pyrol next week, then neem again and by the second time I had to spray pyrol and the mites still put up a fight I made the neem 1.5 × strenght, straight up burnt the fuck out that plant, 90% of the plant turned to a necrotic crisp, so I am not totally against the idea that neem may have caused this either, but I guess the given condition of the plant and the strength of the application and the time of day all that stuff comes into play. but it could very well be a soil issue, just gotta check what's the what what around your feeding/watering been lately?

I love art and I like taking photos too. To get some inspiration I often check stok photos. I just found cool pink background images on depositphotos. They have best prices starting from $0,22 and plans and subscriptions for any budget.There are thousands of stock images and photos on every taste and now I can use it as my wallpaper image too. So convy.

6 July Update My two Critical Auto shrubs (lol) are doing well. The buds have really fattened, and the smell is good. Very sticky. I haven't even seen any more seeds, which makes me happy. The canopy is very dense due to short and stocky nature of the plant caused by my overtraining, so I'm constantly monitoring for bud-rot. Humidity is controlled though, 39-45% RH, so no issues yet. These two little bushes are about 9 or 10 days away from their 11 weeks life cycle coming to an end. As for the other 3 younger plants which are a week or two behind, I took off 90% of the tie-downs, as to avoid the same overtraining. They have really responded well, and I've seen some explosive stretching. What I found interesting, is that one of the bud sites split into two at the top. Mutation? idk xD And just because, here is a photo of the tent in its entirety:

Second to harvesting the prep phase is probably my favourite, also most important! Starting a new thread, that's up to you I guess if you like things organized and just wana make it easier for people to find certain info through searches instead of seeing an introduction thread people won't really think there's much usefull info in the thread, but if you make a new thread that relates more to the topic of questions you wana ask it'll just be easier to spot for people looking for some info. also probably depends on if it's just a couple of questions or like ongoing conversation, but yeah still up to you we still reply no matter the thread topic I would vote for indoor, but I see lots of indoor growers going back outdoors as SA is such a lovely place to be in with all the loadshedding buttfuckery, at least we have good sun! Just not good time right now to start outdoor grow as it's flower season till September/October.