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And drying ^^

that's why they say "if you can smell the terps you are loosing the terps"

heheh I mean like the details of the bud, I can't see cz it's so far away and if I could see it up close I still need to see what it looked like 3 years ago too. but nevermind it's just observation, it wouldn't have much of a impact. aaaaah the 9 months, I keep that in mind, it's new info to me, but yeah I knew it was a fine line. I guess, that's probably what the book say, but we all know reality is a bit different, and it's very logical to assume that not every strain will be exactly the same. I have smoked 1 year old weed that tasted better than it did at 5 months. 1 year is more than 9 months, so how could that be? It doesn't correlate with the 9 months thing. I also see you say the 3 yeard old weed also still taste amazing but you also say 9 months is peak then it start decomposing. now I am left scratching my head even more but again, nevermind all that, doesn't have impact on me I'm just making observations and noting them. I do agree that a cure is only for smootheness, not increased terps. In fact the terps reduce, like we all know - they're volatile. so they don't "decompose" they literally "evaporate" the chemical interaction with oxygen, certain temperatures make them release gas into the air and this is what reduces quality. you know that the quality degrades because the terps have evaporated. the trichome glands that used to be clear/milky are all amber now. so basically knowing the 9 month thing people should never cure for over 9 months?

Is a bit brighter as the weed is due to the flash light. THC starts to decompose after 9 months. So you do not store weed for potency increase.. but smoking pleasure increase. When i smoke a weed, potency is a bit secondary to me. Can be the most potent weed, if i do not like the taste in my mouth or makes me cough i will not smoke it. Curing makes the smoke smoother, fresh weed is never at its best. Most likely why street weed is never really top notch as they flock it into the market as soon as it is ready, dried and dressed. One board member takes more or less all my gear.. he saw the picture of the weed too and asked if he can try. When he picks up some of the stuff we have some and he can write a report ^^ Then you get a smoke test from a third party.

Did I miss the mention if this is organic or synthetic? I can give info till I am blue in the face, I'll just leave it here, but your top soil is where your feeder roots are and the bottom soil is where the drinker roots go. a plant naturally takes more nutrients through the roots closer to the top, because that's how nature works. top soil is where decomposition happens, most life and nutrients in the top soil, so letting top soil dry out is literally just for synthetic hydro growers with inert media. not organic growers. organic growers make a unwanted situation when letting top soil dry out. that's why we use stuff like mulch or cover crops. hydro growers focus on the capilary action of their media, meaning if they bottom water the top should still get wet by soaking the water up all the way and they also cover the tops of their pots to avoid top transpiration so the media doesn't dry out, cause that will cause the nutrients to recrystalise and burn the roots. basically there is never a good time to let soil dry out besides when you over watered. still then you don't let it go bone dry, you let it go to about 50% and then change practice to avoid same problem. Organic growers soil too dry kill microbes and your primary focus in organic growing is microbes. (microbes obviously live where most microbial activity is = top soil) Synthetic growers letting their soil dry out too much risking recrystalising of nutrients. What helps in both situations is watering less, but more frequently. hydro situation flood and drain quicker or let the drips run for shorter time but more frequent. to me it sounds like your brother is hand watering, I do that too, I got 30L pots with mature plants in, they never get more than 500ml water per pot, but that's every day. sometimes less, but never more. Don't wanter a whole lot at once then let it sit like that for a week, that's also damaging. Big up and down fluctuations cause more bad than good, you want a consistent moisture situation in the soil. not soaking and then drying. aim for 50% moisture, keep it there. safer to go on the lower side than the higher side. fixing the water problem will already do a whole lot in fixing the bug issue, but won't resolve it. Just closing the grow room will do wonders too, even besides just the bugs. You need environment to stabilise. leaving a door open too long isn't just attracting bugs. They make tents with viewing windows although I don't use mine, but it's for the purpose of not having to open the grow space when not needed. when you got work to do it's best to just open, do the work and close up. resolving the issue you may need to get yourself some Diatomaceous Earth and topdress with it, cause the reason why you getting those gnats is the soaked soil, but they don't come to eat the soil or just come by to "look at it for the fun of it" they come there to breed and lay eggs. so you gotta worry now about gnat larvae. the flying ones you can catch with sticky traps and some IPM, but even the DE wont help the flying buggers, but your new thing is stopping the larvae from coming out through the soil and starting a new colony. that's probably why you saw it then it got better then worse again, cause you've invited them in, probability of there being nests in your topsoil is already through the roof so yeah. I would say get sticky traps, get DE, fix your watering and keep the grow space closed. if you only half ass it you be asking the same questions next month

Wouldn't worry about it if it's just on a bottom leaf or two, but I'd clip it just in case it's fungal.

The gelato is bringing the purple with some thin leaves and PM[emoji20] The orange mimosas have lekker fat leaves, one next to the gelato with no pm and another on top They seem a lot hungrier Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also had a fungus gnat issue on my 1st indoor run - I switched to bottom feeding/watering to keep the topsoil dry. (plus, I could see exactly how fast my plants take up water - I still water manually, been doing it ever since.) The few bassas that get in at the start lay eggs and the larva stays in the soil until they mature and then repeat the cycle. All in all, fly traps as the guys mentioned and getting that top layer dry and after that expect to see the larvae that matured buzzing around, at this point if there are any wet soil around, they will repeat that cycle. It's a bi-atch, but winnable.

Thanks for the reply guys.

About 2 weeks and the last last plants i harvest in SA... kinda sad but came out nice.. even with load shedding

At least the cold temps bring some colors..

I have clones to hand out.. keep the genetics alive if somebody is interested. Ginger Tea, Gelato (2 versions, Thin Mint Cookie or Orange Sherbet dominant, original are 42FastBuds autos), Slurricane, Deluxe Sugarcane, JetFuel, Sour Diesel, Bubblelicious, Exodus Cheese and White Widow. Limited amount first comes, first serves. Just write me a PM.. And cleaned the tray up as I can move again ^^ Still a good 6 weeks to go.. but looking OK so far. What I can say to my soil tray growing.. I will keep that, way better as growing in pots. But.. is not good for all strains. The Exodus Cheese for example, doesn't grow a lot on the root section during flowering. JetFuel, Deluxe Sugarcane and Slurricane on the other hand love to extend their roots. Some grew over a meter into the tray. The big change are the buds.. all "Explorer" plants gave me record size colas for clone plants. Reached female fist size buds... not measured the harvest yet, but from the amount of jars i got.. might have reached the 1kg dry goal (Mars TS-3000, 450 watts plug draw) with the JetFuel tray.. or got very close. If you play with clones... i would try it.. also very fast to water.. I just dump a 20L bucket into the tray (biological fertilizer in soil, so no pH done). BioBizz FishMix (2-4ml/L) and Bloom (2-4ml/L), Molasses (de-sulphurated, a LOT, at least 100ml per feeding), Amino Acids from Kushy (4ml/10L), 5 in 1 humic and vulvic acids (5 times total, recommended amount). Test when to water needs a bit digging with one finger, if I need to dig deeper as 5-8cm to reach moist soil, I give 20 Liters. I keep the corners of the tray empty, otherwise rows of 6 clones in a 1.2x1.2 tray.. ergo 32 plants, radical lollypop dressing and FIM'ed a week before they go into the flower tray from the 2.8L pots they had during vegetative growing. I suggest to run one strain per tray to have less 'stretch' issues and light hanging consequences. I put the smaller plants in the middle section and the taller ones more to the outside. When to put them into flower is the tricky part.. to big and you have a height issue, to small and you have a harvest issue. Depends a bit on each strain and the second tray will end better.. but you have to test each strain and see if they like the space for the roots.. or not. Heavy stretching plants will need two nets to keep em up! Would always work with support on clones, they just don't have the same stem strength as a seed plant. So as usual, keep it simple ^^ less to debug. Late addon: Leaf discoloring is from the Copper Soap hose down before they formed flowers. With the power outs and ventilation cuts.. plus only one section is running in the 2.4x2.4 tent, so less warm and more humidity issues.. I give them a chemical mace just before the flowers prevent you from doing that. I use 20ml Copper Soap per Liter for the hose down (also under the leaves sprayed and stems), should keep PM off the plants for 3-5 weeks. I also shut down only lights, ventilation for the tent is still as it would be full, 2 TD-500 in and 2 TD-500 out plus 4 mixers inside the tent. If the tray ends well... I will enter that weed into the Cannabis Competition for next year.. just a buddy will hand it in for me ^^