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Aweh fellow florists, The ladies are putting on their show. Buds are swelling and stinking with goodness, despite the heavy rain and high rh. Lost a few girls to the "taxman" mentioned in earlier posts, got a new problem with small spiral snails "ring debarking" some plants-tested some vinegar/soap mix to no effect, now dusting with cinnamon. Don't like spraying stuff in flower, hopefully they'll pull through. Chopped some Bluecheese f1's this morning. Pics of Charlottes, Gorilla Glue, Bluecheese. Our climate on the north coast is unforgiving to say the least. Its like the weather wants to kill your plants.....4 days of thunderstorms and rain, high rh and the next day temps touching 50deg. A good test for any genetic abd the reason why you plant double and take extra clones, just in case. Cheers.

Howzit 420 growers, Dillipit at your service. i'm here because i'm done paying for good bud I want to start my own grow and reap the rewards nature intended for us. Belated 420 !

Aweh gromies, Happy 420 weekend. Herewith some organic outdoor buds.

Johan's Nutcracker day 49.

Didn't actually plan for them to get this big. Mother nature doing her thing...

I'd like to see a update on this Grow please Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Hi all. I've been a stranger the last season but I'm back putting local genetics tk the test on the West Coast. Starting off strong with @Totemic and co. (Have a inclination @SkunkPharmwas involved) or other way around. Bobby's Widow x Sweet Cheese F1. Then dropped some @Bay Seeds Mythic Candy Autoflower feminized today.

Hi, Nice to meet you! I am the new from South Africa, as a hobby for home cannabis cultivation

Congratulations!!! @Bay Seeds I see your Maverick, Top Cheese & 5th Gen Fighter are on sale MarijuanaSA's website. South African Marijuana Seeds - Marijuana SA

@Bay SeedsMythic Candy Autoflower feminized ready for the jiffies

You see the spacing is tight with the auto which is grown outdoor with the sun. Where your indoor plants have large internodal spacing. This gives me reason to believe its a light issue. You mentioned you using a 8 year old blurple light. I would recommend getting a new light such as a LED quantum board. I have a 120w quantum board from Green Houston, next to my old 100w Mars Hydro 48 reflector in one tent. (70cm x 70cm) and they work great together. When looking for a quantum board always look for ones with Samsung diodes. Ill provide the link to the one I purchased. There are different sizes and versions. But any quantum board that uses Samsung diodes such as LM301H diodes will be excellent. https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/quantum-board-led-125w Depending on the size of your tent you might have to go larger or buy multiple. However if you just get one Quantum board, you can combine it with your old light.

Awesome training/presentation, Upside down Candelabra... A night foto with flash will reveal the jewels.

Aweh. Ladies are progressing well, flowers are looking sticky and dank.Tending this garden is its own reward, an olfactory assault/experience that is just next level, These strange flowers that intrigue us so... 1-2. Gorilla Glue bred off of a gift from @Mambawana. 3-6. Blue Cheese f1-Sativa...ish 7-10. Blue Cheese f1-indica...ish 11-12. Swazi 13-14. Blue Cheese f1 15-16. Charlottes Angel fem. One of 2 pheno's. @highchome, @PsyCLown Thanks for the meds.

Got branches hanging and ceiling fan on full tilt, temps around 22 degrees and RH hovering around 65%, not ideal, but humidity should start to drop in a couple of days (it's also been raining the last two nights in a row which doesn't help). Buds are rock hard and are stinking up the house, but I really need to invest in a dehumidifier as there is going to be a lot more bud to dry in the next few weeks!

Going to switch to Final Part now and give it another two weeks or so.

You could thin the mix out with coco and perlite to reduce the high N initially, but chances are good that you'll conversly have to supplement P, K and possibly micros during flower depending on your soil formulation. It's up to you.

Well, fun few weeks we had, me and the girls, but luckily after a few males 2 litle girls, a Runt and a Sativa dominant pheno emerged that, at this stage, is giving me the idea that quite a few more beans need to be popped. I do not have manny left but as soon as the mother room is up and running, they all going in for a propper pheno hunt and pollination session for some fresh beans. Added in some new testers for the collection of mothers I am planning to run. White Rhino, Franco's Lemon Cheese and Orange Velvet Underground. Receiving some White Wedding, Grape Diamonds and Humbolt's Freakshow cuts next week. The preparations for next season is starting in Ernst. Cuttings will veg till late winter and then be placed outside to flower for selection. LGO The only normal Girl in this round. This little one grew lile a cutting with offset internodes. This little guy topped himself at node one. Have allot of work with this strain. Will have to make some fresh beans, she's all over the show.

Depending on the age and stage of the plants in the 2lt bags. If in veg, transplant, give them 2 weeks, then go outdoor. Light hours on the north coast around 13hrs now. If you veg 16/8 or 14/10 technically they should flip to flower as soon as they go outside. I'd go minimum 20lt, the plants will use some of the available N during veg in the new bags, but plants need N throughout, just in different amounts.

I am also a victim of Magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I have been using it for many many years but this is now my 3rd run that I am suffering with magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I am going to water plain water at about 6.7 for now and see what happens Took a huge loss on my previous run my plants in veg tents using the same batch of soil is doing the same as my flower room I have another flowering tent using orgasoilux and those plants are fine.

Ah, I thought as much. Thanks for the input! I've only done a few indoor runs using General Hydroponics tripart salt based nutes, but never salts outdoors in soil/coco/pearlite. I was using the Biogrow range for a few years and then swapped over to the Pro Organic range and have always used molasses when growing organically. I just found that using molasses always made the buds extra sweet and sticky compared to times I didn't use it, even did a side by side comparison with some indoor clones. Regardless, I always like to flush heavy, even with organics as I like to get that fade in But the proof will be in the pudding!

Getting thiccc, frosty and stinky! RH has been high, hovering around 80%, there has also been some rain and wind, so making sure the lower sections are nicely defoliated. Pineapple Chunk and Jillybean will be done first as I'm just starting to see some trichomes turn amber, usually around this time I would stop feeding and start "flushing" with rainwater and molasses, usually for two weeks, and then just plain rainwater for a few days before harvest. Since I'm using salt based ferts, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to introduce molasses, I know some nutrients will be available immediately, but I have no idea what the soil microbe life is like.

The Ugly...

Aweh, the outdoor flowering season is upon us. Plenty of challenges along the way, our area recorded 53 deg yesterday, but the strongest ladies are soldiering on. Herewith....The Good.

Late update. Few weeks into flower now. Had a thrip issue so ordered some predatory mites as I can't spray anymore due to flower. +

Touch wood, I haven't needed to use anything this whole grow! (except giving the whole grow area a generous dusting of diatomaceous earth before planting seeds) Plants are healthy and full of predatory bugs; praying mantises, lynx spiders, jumping spiders, wolf spiders, and the occasional ladybird. I did apply quite a thick layer of mulch and keep any weeds out. I even saw a Western Cape leopard toad under one of the plants.

AK-01 from Anaconda Seeds (two phenos) Slurricane 7 from In House Genetics: Raspberry Cough (Nirvana Seeds) Jillybean (free gift)

Pineapple Chunk from Barney's Farm: Purple Haze from Green Smoke Room: Bubba Cheesecake from Seedsman: Chocolope from Barney’s Farm: (2 plants)

Hello, what do you think it is causing the discoloration and the burn holes? It looks like the media has either run out of potash, the coco wasn't buffered and rinsed properly or the silica has kicked the pH out of range and potassium is unavailable. One or the other, those plants are showing a deficiency of K

Yeah man, I grow mostly indoors and clone my own stuff, always end up with an extra that I just pop outside. No matter the time of the year I just let the plant do its thing. This gives me great perspective on phenotypical expression and how each "genetic" has many different expressions. On the same note of my one keeper that does better for me when flowering in warmer temps, I got another plant that does the exact opposite - warmer temps stunts bud development, it's like the plant doesn't like heat at all. Buds will mature way too soon, resin heads all turn amber, strats throwing nanners, plant wants to finish. The good thing is, when I harvest her during winter she doesn't throw out too much purple, cause to me that would be a sign to dump the plant. I seriously can't stand purple buds swell up like crazy, get very nice calyx stacks and the terpenes are loud as fuuuug.

Cheers for answer bud. I would never have been able to with so much info. Yes. Both those above mentioned strains was when I planted towards the end of outdoor season expecting to see some purple. Not because I wanted to fool people but because I wanted to look and learn. To be honest though, I'll leave the next late season grows until I can replace the shade cloth on my tunnel to plastic covering. As you mention, manipulation can perform wonders.

I forgot to ask how do you know what's a stud male and a stud female is it the one that pops and grow the fastest or because some start slow and next thing they past the early ones. That's something I'm struggling with selection that's my problem and it's the most important part I think.

Bobby's Widow x Sweet Cheese F1 autoflower at day 26. 60% shade house compared to outdoor stretch.

You know I think they should really start a stoners date club because it's really hard to find a girl among the general population that appreciates a good joint or a top grow plant. Any one looking for a marked gap at a social network there is one date a stoners for stoners by stoners Ould work?

I'll second you on that. I've had the opportunity to grow some fire thanks to @Bay Seeds.

You guys should try temu they are the worst that's if you ever get what you ordered it's nothing like the pics I am just glad they don't sell cannabis seeds you will buy a GSC and get a Apple tree.

North America is a good market to watch, we usually follow, I think we are seeing the peak of our greenrush. Not all business people are greedy, just like not all Canadians or South Africans, sadly we have an ongoing pandemic called corruption. I hate to say this but tax is not a bad thing to regulate things.

Not really if you look at statistics, the canadian market has data based on this and you will clearly see that the two markets are being brought closer together thanks to legalisation, and harm reduction.

https://weedmaps.com/news/2020/08/an-in-depth-look-at-the-study-that-discovered-thcp-a-cannabinoid-more-potent-than-thc/ A new cannabinoid has been discovered, and the ramifications could be massive. Scientists funded by the UNIHEMP research project have discovered a new psychoactive molecule: Δ9-Tetrahydrocannabiphorol, or THCP; and they believe that there are great scientific implications for the phytocannabinoid. Phytocannabinoids are cannabinoid molecules that are specifically produced by plants. There are several types of cannabinoids, including endocannabinoids, synthetic cannabinoids, and phytocannabinoids. Endocannabinoids are compounds that are produced within the body by an organism's endocannabinoid system; and synthetic cannabinoids are man-made chemicals that cannot be found in nature. Phytocannabinoids, on the other hand, are a different beast altogether. They are those that naturally occur in plants and are found in a variety, including echinacea. However, the plant species in which phytocannabinoids are most prominent is cannabis. Because of cannabis' status as a Schedule I controlled substance in the US, there are several barriers that prohibit the scientific study of the plant and its constituents. Thus, a considerable portion of cannabis research takes place abroad. Many clinical and laboratory studies of cannabis take place in Israel and Canada, where there is federal research funding to support this work; but, the newly discovered THCP was characterized by a group of Italian scientists. Unlike the US, government funding for cannabis research is relatively commonplace in Europe. The discovery of THCP was enabled by the UNIHEMP project, which is sponsored by the European Regional Development Fund. A multi-disciplinary team of Italian scientists was responsible for the discovery of this novel cannabinoid, led by Giuseppe Cannazza of the University of Modena and Reggio Emilia. The researchers' findings were published in late 2019 in the journal Nature. THCP is 33-times more active than THC Throughout the duration of the project, the group studied a medicinal cannabis cultivar, dubbed FM2, which was supplied by the Military Chemical Pharmaceutical Institute in Florence. Using a variety of scientific characterization techniques, the researchers observed two novel cannabinoids, THCP and CBDP, and isolated them from other cannabinoids that were present. Following this discovery, the group artificially synthesized THCP and CBDP to create reference materials, and the synthesized versions were successfully used to verify the natural expression of the two cannabinoids in the FM2 cultivar. After the confirmation of the identity of the two cannabinoids, the group turned its focus to THCP. To study the compound, they pursued an in vitro experiment with cultured cells. This experiment tested the binding affinity of THCP with CB1 and CB2 receptors, using synthetic cannabinoids as reference materials. It was shown that, when comparing THCP-related results to the previously reported data of other cannabinoids against the CB1 receptor, THCP is 33-times more active than delta-9 THC. This finding is critical because the group also found that the chemical was present in FM2 at 0.0029%, whereas THC was found to be expressed at 3.9%; so, even in smaller amounts, THCP is more active than THC. They also tested the cannabimimetic activity of the molecule. Cannabimimetic activity is a measure of how well a substance replicates the effects of more well-characterized cannabinoids which bind to the CB1 receptor. An in vivo experiment involving mice was performed. Herein, the influence of THCP on body temperature, spontaneous activity, immobility, and pain was determined — the results of these tests confirmed that THCP acts similarly to other cannabinoids like delta-9 THC. Will THCP be important? According to the study, even at lower doses, THCP has more cannabimimetic activity than THC. Further, the group posits that THCP could account for the wide variability of patient responses in cannabis-based therapies, even amongst cultivars with equal THC doses. This means that cannabis' psychotropic effects, which the scientific community attributes to THC, may actually be due to the presence of THCP. Unfortunately, none of the original researchers could be reached for comment. However, experts in the field do have varying opinions regarding the study. Dr. Cecilia J. Hillard of the Medical College of Wisconsin said, “I think it is well designed.” She goes on, “[The study] has two important gaps, in my opinion. First, they should have compared the in vivo effects of THCP to that of THC 'head to head' so that relative potencies could be assessed. Second, I would like to know whether THCP has greater efficacy to activate the [CB1 receptor] in particular. THC is relatively safe because it has low efficacy at the receptor. If THCP has high efficacy (like the synthetic analogs that have also increased the tail length), it is a more concerning finding, as it would suggest that strains making a lot of THCP could be more dangerous to use than those that do not.” Expanding on how THCP could be more dangerous, Hillard continued, “The so-called 'spice' compounds are synthetic agonists of the CB1 receptor. They are full agonists, meaning that they are very strong activators of the CB1 receptor. Compared to THC, these drugs have significant adverse effects and produce significant dependence (addiction). So, my issue is that we do not know yet whether THCP is like THC, a partial agonist, or like the synthetic compounds, a full agonist. And my concern is that, if it is the latter, cannabis strains high in THCP will have more adverse effects than those that are low.” Dr. Samuel Banister of The University of Sydney states, “[The study] was well designed and executed,” concurring with Dr. Hillard. However, he goes on to disagree with the group's assessment that THCP may account for the variability of psychotropic effects across various cannabis cultivars: “While this possibility cannot be ruled out, the known potency differences for THC and THCP at cannabinoid receptors is relatively small, while the difference in abundance of each in cannabis is enormous. The same is true of CBD and CBDP, although CBD requires even higher doses to achieve many of its pharmacological effects. For this reason, I do not feel that minor or trace phytocannabinoids like THCP or CBDP contribute significantly to the psychoactive effects of different cannabis strains.” How this novel cannabinoid plays out in both medical and recreational use is yet to be determined, as much more research is needed. Nonetheless, this new evidence suggests that analytical laboratories in US regulated markets may need to expand their testing panel to include THCP.

Thanks a lot Chris - DM'd

You could reveg, try take two clones of one plant and grow them in different conditions to really check what the issue could be. My two cents, its probably just strain dependent. I'm only on my second grow, and my bud density qualms from the first grow were resolved by changing strain Everything else stayed the same.

I’m no salts grower but with my limited experience it looks like nutrient lock out due to a pH issue. I would make sure you have sufficient run off then watering your plants .

Decided to harvest the Jillybean and Pineapple chunk at the crack of dawn this morning, weather has been super windy the last few days and it looks like some light rain this eve so wanted to get those two plants chopped ASAP. Noticed a couple of small spots of powdery mildew on some of the lower leaves of the Jillybean which I removed before chopping, but luckily, it looks like nothing on the buds or any of the other plants. Also had a tiny amount of bud rot on the pineapple chunk from water dripping off the shade cloth onto a couple of buds, but noting too serious, just picked it off with some tweezers before chopping the plant. Day before harvest: Jillybean (started going dark purple after cooler night time temps and lots of flushing) Pineapple Chunk: (probably the next strain I'll do indoors)

Hey guys, I'm hoping to open a dialogue and gauge whether there are others experiencing the same issues as I am. I've been growing primarily with Freedom Farms Classic since 2018 and I while I have encountered some mild magnesium deficiency through my own errors over the years, the past 3 months I've been seeing mg issues pop up across the board on almost every plant I run. My mother tent, my flowering tent, but clone tent, veg tent - everything is having issues with mag. They're all fed/watered with pH 5.5-6.5 water, and even using different meters cause they're in different rooms. It's almost as though the pH is drifting back up too high in the medium. I initially thought it was a bad batch, so I went and grabbed 5 new bags and have the same issues with it. I've been far more careless with pH balancing in the past without noticing these symptoms. Not sure if it's possible that the tap water is somewhat involved - the Helderberg area has been increasing chloride (apparently). Anyone else seeing anything similar?

150 degrees Celsius THC should be vaporized, some Terpines need more heat, but just a "bit" more. 150 is reached rather quick, and don't use oil, use "Wax" or "Honey". Oil extractions are old tech and in general remove more as just the THC (stuff you don't want to smoke and changes taste to more unfriendly).. hence they are dark to black. Proper extract looks like honey, milky (depends a bit on harvest time of the material). You only wash off the trichomes and leave the chlorophyll and nutrients in the material, so harvest time gives the color (clear: to early, white-ish: upper effects, reddish color: coucher) . Store it dark and cold for long term and after 9 months THC starts to decompose very slowly. I had 3 years cured weed and still got a good buzz from it. Hope that helped. ^^

My only concern for this grow is if there happens to be torrential rain... I would like to get a clear pullover tarp but it's a bit out of my budget currently.

- I've never been a fan of top dressing for this reason, unless you top dressing with a fertilizer that can be broken down by water and leech into the soil (dry amendment fertilizer). When it comes to things like Kelp meal, bone meal and crushed Malted barley, they take time for the microbes to break them down. So I would add them to the soil in the beginning when I was mixing the soil for the plant. I find the trick to organics is to work 2 weeks ahead of where your plant are. So if I'm going to flip to flower in two weeks time, I already start with the organic material needed for Phosphorous and Potassium to give it 2 weeks to at least start breaking down. However, keep in mind, just because the raw material exist in the soil, doesn't mean the plant will use it or it will affect the plant. An example of this is the kelp and bone meal, you can add it to the soil in the beginning and let the microbes do their thing, When you flip to flower, those broken down nutrients will then be instantly available to the plant when it wants it. Crushed Barley needs to be worked into the soil in the beginning, when it gets wet it will build out a mycelium network throughout your soil and feed your microbes. - I answered your Environoc question in the other thread. It won't hard the plant if you do it throughout flower, it's just not needed as it's a waste. - I have never found a use for a compost tea, I prefer to use VermiPure Tea (https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/umoja-organics-vermipure-worm-tea/) and Environoc 401 instead for the microbe loading. Then normal nutrients for the other NPK stuff. If you looking to do organics on the cheap, try out the Bud Juice nutrient range, I'm busy using it at the moment on a grow and its seems really good for something you only give once a week.

She finished wonderful, but I'm doing a second round and it's going even better!

Big haircut. Back left still stretching like crazy, hope it slows down. Back right bag seed that I threw in isn't showing many pistils yet like the others, hope its not a male.. Humidity is now back down to a decent level after the big defol. Wanted to wait till week 3 of flower to do it, but the humidity was too much. photo quality is kak due to whatsapp compression, which is how I send it to myself to post here

So it can be used throughout the grow, but also depends on how long you vegging your plant for. However, Dirty Hands do have a nutrient feeding schedule for Orgasoilux soil if you want to add nutrients, which I have attached for you. The feeding works out really cheap as you don't use very much of the nutrients at all. You buy these nutrients here - https://jamiesgardenshop.co.za/product-category/organic-garden-products/organic-fertilisers/liquid-organic-fertilizers/ I've grown using their nutrients before and have had great results. Organic Liquid Feeding Program (3).pdf