DesignatedDave

In the form of auto's, you get some strains which do well in the cold, usually any Gorilla cross, like: https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/store/autoflowering/fast-buds-gorilla-zkittlez-auto https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/store/autoflowering/fast-buds-strawberry-gorilla-auto https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/store/autoflowering/fast-buds-gorilla-cookies-auto Or some strains specifically designed for cold: https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/store/autoflowering/renegade-seed-co-hellhound-auto https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/store/autoflowering/renegade-seed-co-s4716-auto https://www.cannabisseeds.co.za/store/autoflowering/renegade-seed-co-harambe-auto If you can find a northern lights auto, that also does well in the cold, along with a do-si-dos

It's Orthosilicic acid, which is the best and most easy form of silica for the plants to uptake. You can use it weekly with your plants and is a great silica supplement.

My Ph is usually between 6.3 - 6.6, I don’t go below 6.2 with organics

So I have a similar issue with Freedom Farm Classic, except with Calcium. There is little to no calcium in their mix and if I don't use a calmag supplement, my plants suddenly have calcium deficiencies. I've experienced this with pretty much every grow I've done, I now just account for it.

- I've never been a fan of top dressing for this reason, unless you top dressing with a fertilizer that can be broken down by water and leech into the soil (dry amendment fertilizer). When it comes to things like Kelp meal, bone meal and crushed Malted barley, they take time for the microbes to break them down. So I would add them to the soil in the beginning when I was mixing the soil for the plant. I find the trick to organics is to work 2 weeks ahead of where your plant are. So if I'm going to flip to flower in two weeks time, I already start with the organic material needed for Phosphorous and Potassium to give it 2 weeks to at least start breaking down. However, keep in mind, just because the raw material exist in the soil, doesn't mean the plant will use it or it will affect the plant. An example of this is the kelp and bone meal, you can add it to the soil in the beginning and let the microbes do their thing, When you flip to flower, those broken down nutrients will then be instantly available to the plant when it wants it. Crushed Barley needs to be worked into the soil in the beginning, when it gets wet it will build out a mycelium network throughout your soil and feed your microbes. - I answered your Environoc question in the other thread. It won't hard the plant if you do it throughout flower, it's just not needed as it's a waste. - I have never found a use for a compost tea, I prefer to use VermiPure Tea (https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/umoja-organics-vermipure-worm-tea/) and Environoc 401 instead for the microbe loading. Then normal nutrients for the other NPK stuff. If you looking to do organics on the cheap, try out the Bud Juice nutrient range, I'm busy using it at the moment on a grow and its seems really good for something you only give once a week.

Just add it in with your nutrient / molasses mix once a week and give it to the plants until the 2nd week of flower, by this point you should have enough of a microbe army that you dont need to add anymore (remember they are reproducing themselves as well).

Hey, yeah it is the 700w Sunplus LED light, however don't buy one, they shit. On one of my lights, 3 out of 8 bars have had the 3000k diodes die on it, but like the entire bars. Sunplus hasn't responded to any of my support request about how do I get replacements. The after sale service is pretty much null and void. I've done 3 grows with these lights. For a R14 000 light, I would class it as pretty shitty quality. It puts down the ppfd for sure, but in my own testing, the Lummi 720W LED which costs half the price puts down exactly the same ppfd as this sunplus light with 301H diodes with almost identical heat output. Luckily I have so many bar grow lights, I just replace it with another one, but still annoying.

So it can be used throughout the grow, but also depends on how long you vegging your plant for. However, Dirty Hands do have a nutrient feeding schedule for Orgasoilux soil if you want to add nutrients, which I have attached for you. The feeding works out really cheap as you don't use very much of the nutrients at all. You buy these nutrients here - https://jamiesgardenshop.co.za/product-category/organic-garden-products/organic-fertilisers/liquid-organic-fertilizers/ I've grown using their nutrients before and have had great results. Organic Liquid Feeding Program (3).pdf

The short answers to this is yes, you are going to need some form of backup power for the fans / extractors, your concern here is heat and humidity, not light. You have to keep the air moving. Autoflowers are the best for load shedding, (if you don't have backup power for your lights). Put your lights on 24/7 and let load shedding be your dark periods. So 2x 2H load sheddings a day = 20 hours of light for the plant, which is spot on perfect. Even at stage 6, you plants will still be happy. Autoflowers will not care about the broken up light periods either. Also autos don't need the lights to be as "higher wattage" as photoperiods due to DLI (Daily Light Integral). So to explain this briefly. a Plant can only take is so much light in a 24 hour period and the rest is just wasted light, this is called the DLI of the plant. A cannabis plant needs between 30 - 45 mol/m² of light per day. Generally you would aim for abouts 40 DLI a day for cannabis. When you have a photoperiod plant in flower, it can only have 12 hours of light, so to hit 40 DLI a day, we use higher watt lights like (for example purposes) a 650watt / 1.2m² tent. When using auto's, your lights are on for 18 - 20 hours, so that 650watt can be dropped down to say 400w to achieve the same 40 DLI in that period. If you have extreme load shedding (stage 16), you can turn up the power of your lights for the available hours you have power to meet the same 40 DLI. You will also find a lot more mould and mildew resistant autoflower strains than you do photoperiod strains as this resistance has been bred into the strains, this helps with the humidity issues that can occur. Generally speaking, a small'ish inverter + 2x 100Ah 12v batteries can hold small oscillating fans and extractor fans for a relatively long period of time.

yeah I got the same Fruit Pastilles and the CBD seeds with my order from them, gave the CBD seeds away, but I'm keen to pop these fruit pastilles. As for the OP, overgrow, groen seeds, trophy seeds are all reputable and have pretty quick shipping, it really depends on what you looking for as each of these places carries different genetics. If you looking to do a run with Ethos Genetics, In house Genetics, Dutch Passion or Fast buds, trophy seeds is for you, they are slightly higher price than the other seeds banks, but they carry very good genetics If you want to do a Seedstockers, Delicious Seeds or Seedsman, then Groen seed is the way to go. For everything else, there is Overgrow. All three do also carry similar genetics like Barney's Farm, in cases like this, pick the website with the best price. As for best freebies, both Overgrow and Groen Seed are very good with this, there is always some free stuff with your orders.

Hey, So this grow is done and dusted, thought I would add it here as a start-to-finish diary. Substrate : Freedom Farm Premium Classic, amended with Dirty Hands Elemental Blend at 1L per 20L soil and a rooibos mulch on top. Nutrients : Biobizz (Grow, Bloom, Top-Max, Acta-Vera). Kushy Amino Acids, CalMag and Bud Juice Symbiotics. Genetics : Mandarin Cookies V2 from Ethos Genetics. There isn't many pics of Veg, because a cannabis plants looks like a cannabis plant, lets get onto the good stuff. I harvested just over 600 grams in dry weight in total, 400 grams of decent smokable buds and 200 odd grams of bud and offcuts to go towards some bubble hash. Well that's that, cheers for now.

one day when I grow up, I wanna be able to grow like you Welcome and thanks for sharing the awesome pics.

Welcome dude

Ah... the LED light boxes that lie, when I first started growing, these confused the shit out of me because they say 600w, but they only like 60w. I use these 60w led boards for small clones and when popping new seeds. You could try using two of them for 120w, however you are never going to see the growth and yield you would get from say an actual 600w light. Download an app onto your phone called "Photone" - it will need you to cut a strip of white paper and tape it over your front camera on your phone as a diffuser. It will then turn your phone into a PAR meter and allow you to measure the amount of PPFD the light it putting out onto your plants (The actual light power being put down on the leaves). So hold the phone at the height of your plants and take the reading. These are the values you want for ideal growth (outside of co2 supplementation): Seedling / Clone : 100 - 300 PPFD Vegetative : 250 - 600 PPFD Flowering : 500 - 1100 PPFD I tend to aim for 500 PPFD on veg and around 950 PPFD in flower (although my lights can easily hit around 1500 PPFD on full). If you are getting below these PPFD levels, you can bring your light closer to increase it, but if it remains below the above ppfd levels, then your plant isn't going to grow very well or produce any decent buds.