Totemic

You'd be surprised how many people use these products in combination already. It's just easier to weigh out dosages for 1000l than to try and measure micro doses for a 10l watering can. @Gloriosa superba Yeah I've had my fair share of DAFF. The hoops and red tape and waiting is ridiculous. That's why I'd rather just run diy again until hopefully biobizz comes back.

So for many years I've been growing in soil and using mixes and matches of nutrients experimenting with good results. Decided a year ago to give biobizz a go and been doing well with the range. Last week though, the sobering reality that Biobizz, the bloom specifically is sold out and fast selling out across the country. What a bummer... There are issues at DAFF and the re-registration is causing an import delay I guess. This puts me back where I'm going to be using a blend of products again once I run out of Biobizz. With so many that are going to be facing the same issues I thought I'd share the blend here so you can also mix your own should you want to. But first... All the disclaimers This is not an all organic fertilizer blend. The bulk of the phosphates and potassium are derived from MKP. (I know all the strictly vegan okes are screaming now... I don't have time to ferment bones and fruits etc... P is P, and K is K to me, and using MKP in very low doses works in organics.) This is a blend of already registered and readily available products. It's going to set you back about R400, and will last a long time. There is nothing special about this blend. I have literally taken each of the suppliers recommended dosages for 1000l, and combined them with 830ml distilled water. So this 1l treats 1000l water, or 1ml/1l. What you need: 20ml Amino mix 40ml Elixer humates 40ml Elixer fulvates 40ml Sea Rock 30g MKP 830ml Distilled water All of the above blends to a dark liquid, with no precipitation reactions, and provides roughly (based on supplier supplied data) 0.3g/kg N 10.7g/kg P 10g/kg K Plus the aminos, humates, fulvates, hormones and other micros. I have used this blend in conjunction with any fish hydrolysate and mollasses with great results. Edit: After recently getting feedback from a grower who measures his input EC to his organics, found his EC reading was lower than usual so he bumped up the EC using only the bloom blend. That quite simply locked his plants up. This bloom blend does not work on its own. You have to use a fish hydrolysate and mollases. This blend being partly salts, is meant to be used as follows: 1ml fish hydrolysate, 1ml molasses, and 1ml of this bloom blend per 1l of water, with every watering. It's a matter of constant micro fertigation to sustain a healthy plant.... Being over eager and over feeding does not mean a yield increase.

The way I grow has evolved around my breeding. The idea of breeding in a controlled environment, consistancy in every input is key to replicate expression. So considering all, I split the plants life cycle into a rule of 3. 0-3 weeks - Embryo to seedling 3-6 weeks - Early veg, plant is focused on root development. 6-9 weeks - Veg, Plant has reached sexual maturity and is building on itself. Flip to 12/12 9-12 weeks - Preflower. Florigen hormone level drive the plant into flowering. 12-15 weeks - Peak Flowering. In this time the plant is going to produce all the floral mass it can in an attempt to get pollinated. (Now you can push plants past this and get more yield, but you are altering the bud shape as fox tails, top bulging etc.) 15-18 weeks - Ripening phase. Any pollination in this time is unlikely to produce viable seed, as the plant has reached its peak and the last of the calyxes start to swell. 18-21 weeks - Harvest window. Short flowering varieties will be ready with milky trichomes at 18, longer flowering at 21.

Here are some macro shots of the tent. I'm happy with the variation in phenos. Im seeing and smelling, chocolope, gelato 33, and slurricane dominance in one tent.

Yeah man, always a hectic ride, pushing the plants to their limit in that day 21-42 peak flowering period without pushing them over the edge, then turn down the lights a bit, dial back on the nutes and allow them to ripen.

Day 42 Downhill from here, as they move into their ripening phase. 3 to 4 more weeks to go.

Awesome. Keen to follow. Using those F1s, your resulting cross will be a poly hybrid, with many different phenos. Some will be slurricane dominant, others GTH, others Charlotte's angel etc etc.... expect the the GTH to dominate. Not a bad thing, as this space is where you find unique phenos. Likewise your THC:CBD ratios will be on a spectrum, and not uniform through the plants

I was actually going to ask if you going to defoliate more...it sure is dense in there

That does look like a larval stage. As for the little ones, it could be a combination of overwatering and heat stress. Fixing that may be as simple as transplanting to a larger pot. It seems like rootzone issues really...

With thrips you are going to have to treat systemically for a while. Thrips lay eggs inside the soft leaf tissues more often than on the leaf surface, so they are protected right up to the point of hatching. Thrips are the worst of the insects to get rid of...even mites are easier to control

I'll say yes man. Support local. This year has hardly started and many local breeders have stepped up and hitting hard. I'd love to see our local market get established to the point where we dont need to be sending our money out of the country at 15x + exchange rate.

For decent veg you need to provide 300-600ppfd to a plant so it sounds like you are on track here.

Looking stellar man

My first thought here is thrips as you said, from a bug infestation point of view. What lights are your plants under? Are your plants getting enough light to utilize a full dose feeding schedule? How have you been feeding with the biobizz? Every watering? How often do you fertigate?

How are you going to deal with humidity buildup? Invest another few K into a dehumidifier? Just how sealed off and isolated is your actual grow space. What is the size of the space around your grow. Ie. Is your tent in a room? How sealed is that room? Trying to seal off a grow space, and still cater for all the needed air exchange/minute, while keeping humidity and temperatures in range will be a feat on its own to dial in. Are you able to provide the plants with the DLI needed for the extra CO2...otherwise maintaining double ppm concentrations is a waste of money. Really I'm shooting in the dark here as you haven't shared details about your space, your lights etc.... It seems a super expensive, complicated move, for not wanting a higher yield...

Not much of a difference. Pheno 3 is more indica, and has a more pronounced hashy spice in there, while the other phenos are pretty much the same, and have a much sweeter profile

Day 35 Not much I can say at this point except that its smelling just fine in here.

Man every time I walk into my house I smile, thinking my house is actually allowed to smell like this.

5-6 weeks is the peak, then its downhill for the next 4-5 weeks as they ripen.

Day 28 So I had to raise the shorter girls to get an even canopy. Sweet smells of grape or berries and ice cream developing.

Some lockdown 1.0 inspired tobacco replacement plants getting there now. Leonotis Nepetifolia Mullein

Got stuck in with a little defoliation this morning. Opened up plenty bud sites that never really made it past the net. A lot more light penetrating now, but still have a pretty solid canopy left.

Actually did not stretch as much at all. 1 to 1 1/2 times stretch.

Day 21 Frosting up all over the place now.

I'd like to send out a huge thank you for your support. The 2020/21 season drop has been one that has seen my seeds reach grow spaces over the whole country enmasse. As always, I look forward to following your growing journey of It's a busy year ahead for me and my next drop will only be next year again. Thank you again!