Totemic

Its a bummer that she reacted like that. Just more proof that it is a shorter flowering pheno. I would flush her and let her dry out. Are the calyxes swelling yet? She will still finish well.

They are begging for more light. Youd get a better spread turning that CFL horizontal. I would also add more light. At least another 2 of them at that low wattage.

Why so concerned with purple stems on DP? Its got a pretty dominant purple streak. Imo you are causing a lockout trying to focus on that purple.

I wait until the 4th node before I start feeding. Let those roots go and search for food and water. There is still more than enough nutes in that large volume.

With 2 weeks of fading left, that is sure to be a smooth smoke after cure...

And the timing will be great for a winter grow...

That sounds like the type of room I could just go sit in the middle of for a few hours and just take in the sights and smells...

With organics, you really want the plant to start looking like that and using up all the N as they approach the end. Bud with a high N content when harvesting tastes extra gross, and even a really good cure doesnt really fix it imo.

Looking stellar so far.

Welcome.

You are really going to need to put some thinking into your medium. What I am seeing with all those different sized, layered particles is a pH timebomb waiting to happen. Honestly I would loose the hydroton, its doing nothing there. When considering your medium, it should be a consistent mix, that is fine, but aerated. If you want to really go an organic route lookup some of the soil recipes here on the forum. I have one posted here where I use local ingredients to make a super soil. As far as moving plants around in and out. You are really causing stress. That plant is so much tougher than you think, and will do so much better without constant micro-intervention. Leave them be and let them do their thing.

I would go at half strength, or even a half strength calmag before returning to your nutes. It is locking out a bit.

If its not responding, have you considered drifting the ph a bit, maybe up to 6.0. I have found that drifting the ph slowly between 5.7 and 6.2 breaks a nutrient lock. If she is not responding there at 5.8, drift it a bit.

Yeah. A pic is worth a thousand words, and we love pics. There is always so much more information that we want than what is given, so adding a pic along with your question will get more complete answers. The problem may not be what you think.

Pics help

Your lights shouldnt be on during the hot mid day hours. What is your current schedule? Fresh air exchange is also a lot more important than trying to use stale air to push humidity up. You are asking for spider mites! Your plants should be fine with the lower humidity. Humidity is only really an issue when flowering when you want it low anyway.

Try taking pics without the LED. But from what I can see, they look over watered and have suffered heat stress.

Most of that is genetic. Why do you want to remove them? The plant really needs every leaf it can to produce food. If it isnt shaded or shading a "more" important production area, I leave them.

They should be under their lights already imo otherwise they might stretch a bit far... Mine are under lights from the time they go to soil.

My approach to quitting nicotine this year: http://time.com/3399433/quit-smoking-psychedelic-drugs-acid-test/

I've decided to quit almost everything except Cannabis. Dropped the alcohol altogether 4 years ago. Dropped Caffiene a week ago, and still getting round to the nicotine issue this year...

Best option to navigate this pane is to switch your view to html if you cant get out of the quote box. Last icon above the text area.

Would love to see a thread. Put one up.

As you say some things just are... I'm just messing with the new guys...The forum has been quiet ya know.