LitItGrown

Dude.., did you smoke! Give me the name of that strain!

I also had a fungus gnat issue on my 1st indoor run - I switched to bottom feeding/watering to keep the topsoil dry. (plus, I could see exactly how fast my plants take up water - I still water manually, been doing it ever since.) The few bassas that get in at the start lay eggs and the larva stays in the soil until they mature and then repeat the cycle. All in all, fly traps as the guys mentioned and getting that top layer dry and after that expect to see the larvae that matured buzzing around, at this point if there are any wet soil around, they will repeat that cycle. It's a bi-atch, but winnable.

Hi there fellow mystics, Thought I would share this handy app; Supergreenlab (Google Playstore Link) I've been using it for almost 3 months now and found it to be a big time-saver for me. If you are like me and don't have the time to sit and create a database for you grows and need to document the data, then this app would probably be of interest to you. I don't have automated environmental controls, but even if you do, you can integrate this app with your system (depending what setup you are running) Me I use the manual way - You create your lab (or grow space) and then add each plant to that created lab (I have 5 labs for example Outdoor, Veg, Flower, Dry and Cure and between 3 to 8 plants listed in each.) It keeps track of life events, various training methods, watering and nutrient schedules and an image grow log - where you snap images directly into your plants database and you can scroll every plants life like a Facebook page almost. Indicating 4 weeks and 3 days ago, last watering 1 day 4 hrs ago for example. You can also add your own tools in the toolbox, for example the breeders name and the link to the seed bank you got it from. These guys also have a YouTube channel by the same name where they do some indoor growing, if you wanted to know more about these guys. For me the convenience of opening the app, tapping the plant and having all the info of what I've done ready right there to simply thumb down and see what we last did here is super. Just a Note: You can also update what you've already done by uploading images and setting dates for images and actions. You can make your grow log public or scroll and browse other grow logs from there. I just use it to keep track of which plant is where and likes what and how much. So, I hope this resource is as handy for you as it is for me. Happy growing fellow mystics.

Lol. I'm sure @TheLazyFisherman (and the rest of the peeps that read the comment) understood what I meant.

Lol Dude, I wasn't implying that's its temperature related AT ALL, 3rd Evan mentioned that... - I was implying light stress could be a reason, hence the question... "how intense/ or low are your lights or light source" "Pink or slightly brown? The image to me looks slightly brown" implying exactly that "forms of necrosis and/or tip burn" - The "slightly brown" I was referring to.

Pink or slightly brown? The image to me looks slightly brown, anyhow, this might be a dumb question, but how intense/ or low are your lights or light source to the seedling? Seedlings don't like to intense light and will stress easy. If it was a medium issue, it would have shown in the cotyledon leaves, but they look healthy. So, I would look to the light source as a starting point. Good luck

Awesome stuff @AK-47 Gold Arabesque See, the journey IS the magic, the reward is personal and learning experience is quite massive. Remember plants are sentient living beings, the more you connect with each plant in your grow the better all your diagnosis on each individual will become. As you grow new strains, (how many you got going now? lol) you have a better understanding of what's the genetic need vs the plant need. (For example, in my experience Sour Diesel didn't mind lower light levels, where cookies and cream could not get enough light, but like the Psychonaut said, "a healthy plant makes the best end product" that is ultimately each grower's measurement of what you have done right, and the best way of determining how well your grow is doing. Lol I have to update my page, My Malawi Gold's are midway through flower, the Northern Lights auto is ready for harvest and has been pollinated by a Malawi Gold male, also kept the strain pure by pollinating the healthiest female and so keeping that Malawi strain pure. I also have those cookies babies from the Swazi pollen and 2 of the 3 grown are genetically dominant autos, so they are in 1st week of pre-flower and ofc I won't know how what the flower result would be like but I am quite excited, because those particular cookies, is currently my favourite smoke. So I am sure you will be growing even more fiya on your next run, if you are not already busy with one. Well done fellow mystic!

Curling would be heat and the texture is light stress. They might be to close to your reflective insulation at the back there.., the material is awesome for maintaining heat but without the airflow that insulation gets hot pretty quick. As for what to do, cut the effected leaves off, move them away from the sides and add some kelp extract with water for the stress relief. (It's what worked for me anyway. I use the same lining in my flower room.) Happy growing and GL

Sounds like an awesome idea, but why not go with 2 divisions, indoor- and outdoor- no reason why 1 grower can enter both divisions. I'd definitely give both a roll.

To be honest I would check my drying environment first. You want the dry to be between 9 - 14 days. (I take a small piece. roll a joint, bust it and put it down. I it stays lit, I'm good -- and as a bonus I get an idea off wat I'm gonna get after 30-40 days The trick is to let moisture out of the buds at such a pace that the moisture in the plant doesn't escape to quickly. My environment was on the cooler side so the more leaves the more moisture, and that would make drying harder (longer) and riskier (Mold) for me. The cure process allows the moisture still trapped inside the buds to release and keep all those goody terps and flavs, without the "green" taste. Some old growers will tell you that if you get your dry is spot on you won't have to "burp" your jars, cause the moisture levels are perfect all the way through. As with most things' cannabis, it's another process. I prefer wet trim. I don't like handling the buds to much before cure. (those trichs are fragile) Plus the off cuts makes for great butter. If you're going to wet trim, I would recommend 2 trimmers and a alcohol-based cleaning solution, to put the pair you've used in and alternating between them. Those buds are very sticky on the wet trim, but again, that's just my preference. Trimming sucks wet or dry so I would try both, see which one works best for you. Some peeps even dry plants with the roots in warm environments to slow down the dry process otherwise it dries too fast and there is no moisture left to release and enhance all those cannabinoids and terpenes that adds fuel to your faya during the cure process - the home straight

Congratulations!!! @Bay Seeds I see your Maverick, Top Cheese & 5th Gen Fighter are on sale MarijuanaSA's website. South African Marijuana Seeds - Marijuana SA

Welcomefellow mystic May your journey be an awesome one!

The Psycho is correct . I would suggest downloading a PAR meter app that measures your light in PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) and DLi. - ("Daily Light Integral." is a metric used to quantify the total amount of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) received by a plant over the course of a day. DLi is often expressed in units of moles of photons per square meter per day (mol/m²/day).) (Google play store, search for PPFD Meter) Distance all depends on what readings you get, that sorted me out, and this is the advice I got to narrow down my tip burn issues. Chlorosis of leaf tips, aka tip burn, It is a common issue and can be caused by several factors: Nutrient imbalances: Imbalances in essential nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, or potassium, can lead to tip burn in cannabis leaves. These imbalances can occur due to over-fertilization, improper pH levels, or poor nutrient uptake by the roots. Excessive fertilizer or nutrient concentration: Using too much fertilizer or nutrient solution, especially those high in salts, can result in tip burn. The excessive salt buildup can interfere with nutrient absorption and cause damage to the leaf tips. Environmental factors: High temperatures, especially when combined with low humidity, can lead to moisture stress in the plant. This can disrupt the movement of water and nutrients, resulting in tip burn. Light intensity: Intense light, particularly when coupled with high temperatures, can cause leaf tips to burn. This is more likely to occur in indoor growing environments with powerful grow lights placed too close to the plants. Here are some general steps to consider: Adjust nutrient levels: Check the pH of the growing medium and ensure it falls within the appropriate range for cannabis (typically around 6.0 to 6.5) [My soil and RO is at 6.8]. Adjust nutrient concentrations and ratios according to the specific growth stage of the plants. Monitor temperature and humidity: Maintain a suitable temperature and humidity range for cannabis cultivation. Avoid excessive heat and ensure adequate airflow to prevent moisture stress. Review lighting setup: Make sure the grow lights are positioned at an appropriate distance from the plants to prevent light burn. Adjust the intensity or duration of light exposure if necessary. Flush the growing medium: If nutrient buildup is suspected, consider flushing the growing medium with pH-balanced water to remove excess salts. This can help restore nutrient uptake and alleviate tip burn. But like the Naught said, "we gona need a lot more info" but hopefully the above steps will narrow down your self-diagnoses of the issue you are having. Good luck fellow mystic

Looking good!