Bos

Hydrogen Peroxide can be used for larger volume water purification. The dosages need to be spot on or it will oxidize too quickly and not ''clean'' the water properly. The dosage volumes also make it impractical. Adding half a cup of chlorine or Jik is much easier than lugging litres of peroxide. Testing for free chlorine in water is also much more convenient. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

@Chris Jay, Water quality requirements for human consumption are much more stringent, for obvious reasons. Chlorine is preferred because it kills most, if not all of the pathogems that are dangerous to humans.(Choliforms, E.Coli, Bacillus, Legionaires) And if the chlorine is not exposed to direct sunlight it stays in the water for a long time doing its job. Peroxide has a short metabolic path and is quickly reduced to H2 and O2 But as an organic grower I don't want to water my plants with chlorinated water as it will kill all my good microbes. Our rainwater is used exclusively for the garden hence the use of peroxide, which is slightly more cost effective and assists to oxygenate the water. 1.Treatments for borehole water vary depending on quality, but usually involve a large primary reservoir for settling out sediment. 2. Secondary stage with sand and activated charcoal filtering. 3. Third stage for ph correction and either chlorine addition or membrane filtration before consumption, depending on which is preferred. UV radiation treatment is also a good final treatment for added peace of mind. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Our outdoor grows only recieves rainwater, collected from the roof. Have a pressure pump rigged up on a manifold system to send it where we need it, including the circulation line for aeration. Rain water is usually collected from rooftops etc... and will include some dodgy bits, hadeda/hammerkop poop and gecko carcasses, which will contain bacteria. If you collect from the roof think about installing some pre filtration to keep the solids(leaves twigs) out and a sediment filter for the dust and sand. You will need to seal it properly because it will attract mosquitos. Circulation is good to keep the water aerated. A maintenance dose of hydrogen peroxide will also help keep the bacteria in check. Have a look on google and decide what will work best for your setup. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

How to compare the intricate mycological flora from a well established 1000 year old undisturbed forest with what's happening in your ''residential'' garden soil, that's had much, much less time. Compare that with ''supersoils'' or ''craft soils and the amount of disturbances and processing involved. In the effort to emulate mother nature we will always be lagging behind, needing all the help we can get. She has all the time in the world to create. I say add the myco's. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Aweh. Welcome. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Looking blerrie good, you got it down. That's some ''seriyaas'' effeciency bro and those babies look awesome. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Good stuff. Welcome. How's your planning for the summer outdoor season? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Fed the Ladies this morning. Banana and apple smoothies with ecobuz molasses and some epsom. Happy girls. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Also known as ''weather stripping''. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Welcome. Any pics of the setup? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

You know it brother. If you give them love, they give hive it back 10x.[emoji3] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hydro nutes are salt based and suitable for inert hydro mediums like coco and leca hence you need to ph etc..(you control everything) Soil is an intricate biosphere with many automatic internal regulating ''processes'' and contains additional elements/amendments as you mentioned as well as micro organisms(they do the work, but you have to keep them happy). The soil has the capacity to buffer your feeding to the plants required ph in the rootzones. By feeding living soil with hydro nutes you are damaging the soils natural buffering capacity and possibly killing off the natural miro organisms that facilitate normal feeding in soil. Basically causing a shit storm in the rootzone that will affect your plants negatively and making it very difficult to diagnose and repair. If you want to stay with soil, do a flush to get rid of the salt based stuff and aquire a ''micro'' innoculant to put the good beneficial organisms back in the soil and some organic nutes. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Morning bruh, I grow organic in soil, but have done hydro. First thing. Hydroponic nutes in soil is going to give you all kinds of problems. In my opinion it's either hydro or organic, mixing the two is really problematic. Your plants are showing tip burn allready, so too strong nute mix and the leaves look ''hard/crispy''. 2nd plant also looks like early stages of N tox. Give us a rundown on your grow, indoor, outdoor, nutes, brand etc.. it'll help the more experienced hydro growers to comment on a possible solution. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Aweh lekka ppl. Pic 4. The Fruit Punch line is on the edge of the next level. 2 best boys and girls. 2-3. Seedsman Lemonchello haze doing her thing. Smelling dank and skunky. 1,5,6,7. Fruitpunch ladies flowering out. Terpine profiles weren't impressive and the bloody Nanners in late flower don't help either. 8. Growing out some Gorilla X's and a wildcard Swazi bag that germed on the greenhouse floor in winter. It's will to live earned it a place and the vigour is clear being double the size. 9-10. The Purple Russian Express from Kalashnikof is not disappointing. Not a massive plant given the time of year, but she is more stinky spicy purple bud than anything else. 11. Some actual ''tomato'' trees bearing fruit. Staying organic with the feedings, supplementing the Seagrow and Ecobuz with banana and apple smoothies (incl wood ash and coffee grounds). Molasses and AACT keep the micro flora happy. Softsoap and canola spray for the aphids and whitefly. Had hoped there would be fewer bugs in winter. Only highlights the importance of IPM for all growers. Good growing all. Cheers.

Agreed. Those leaves look hard, could be N to as well. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

It will also contain some humic and vulvic acids which are beneficial. But more ''micro innoculation'' than ''nutrient'' as@SkunkPharm mentioned. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Agree with the bark(acidic) and ''nursery potting soil'' comments. Most ''store bought'' mixes are not ideal for cannabis-some are even lethal. Would suggest you look at aerating the mix as well by adding some perlite, it will also aid with drainage. Also with that size bag, go easy on the watering. Those size bags will take long to dry out, you risk the seedlings damping off. Those size seedlings need about 250ml every 3rd day only and no nutes untill about 3 weeks old. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I use Tapatalk for a number of other forums incl 420SA - convenient to have them together, but have problems across the board. Browsing through threads and it stops...get a msg ''Tapatalk has stopped'' Replying with text is ok'ish but uploading anything is a problem. Did the restart and reload of the app to no avail. Could be handset related, but same ploblems on the S5 and A5. So I'm living with it for now, frustrating...but not the end of the world. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I use Tapatalk only for quick browsing and even then it is problematic- freezes and stops but that is Tapatalk itself. Uploading pics is even worse, resorted to going via the website. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Are you uploading from your phone or pc? Via 420sa website or using a platform like Tapatalk? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Welcome to the curve... Opposite lock, steer with the rear end...hahaha.[emoji3] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Winter colours. Purple Russian Express

Cool bruh. Tea looks good. The ''teabag'' thing also messed with my setup- no vortex and all kinds of bits, sand and floaters etc. Tried a different technique, to avoid any solids in my brew bucket. Pour the ''solid ingredients'' from your teabag into a seperate bucket, add a few liters of water and stir vigorously to extract as much goodness and micro organisms as possible. Strain the ''mush'' and add that liquid to the brew bucket. Repeat. Then add nutrient source and molasses. It might not be 100% efficient at extracting all the goodness out of the solid material due to shorter contact time with the water, but its damn close. Works well for me, can't tell the diffs. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Good stuff. Awesome Diy. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Seems that medium is too hot. Seedlings and young plants struggle with a too hot (nutrient rich) medium. You can flush, basically you gonna flush a lot of the nutes out of the soil, defeating the purpose of using that soil in the first place. They allready suffering, they may pull through or they might not, but they will take a knock either way. What I would do.....carefully transplant the seedling out to a smaller pot with a ''blander'' medium. Let them recover and start growing again. When they are ready transfer them back. Heed the suggestions of the other growers and decide what you want to do. Auto's are unforgiving as they are on their own internal timer. Playing around with photos and bagseed helps to learn without breaking the bank. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk