CreX

Basically, the finer the substrate, the easier it is for the capillary action to do its thing. So soil would have a range of the tiniest to the largest particles... But mostly small and sand.... So without enough perlite or large bits in the soil it would likely have the highest PWT by a long shot. Coco has mostly small to medium sized particles with tiny particles mostly rinsed out. This makes the coco very good to hold not only water, but allow oxygen to permeate the substrate. Plain coco would have a PWT below that of soil, often times below that of soil with amended perlite too... Coco with perlite would be the go to choice over vermiculite as the vermiculite can hold a lot of water which may raise the PWT instead of lowering it. Straight up... I have no idea what the ideal PWT is... 1cm...5cm... No cooking clue... But experts recommend a 20-30% perlite in the mix is ideal... Perhaps they have taken this into consideration

Whats up guys!! i already hear you all asking... WTF is a perched water table, and can i Drink it? this is some very important information regarding pots and mediums that i feel should be available here on the forum. Well, basically, the perched table is the saturation point, where the capillary action in the soil is canceled out by the force of gravity. Every type of growing media has a different perched table. Capillary action will pull water up from a certain point, and below that point, gravity keeps the water from moving up. The size of the container does not affect the height at which the perched table occurs. See the figure below. If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: the level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. This information is very important for us cannabis growers as finding a happy medium is always tricky. If the same potting medium is used, irrespective of the size or shape of the pot, the perched water table always stays the same height because it is determined by the wicking ability of the potting medium, since gravity doesn’t change. The way to increase drainage of the perched water table is to add materials throughout all of the potting medium to increasing the air spaces in the mix and reduce capillary action. Perlite and vermiculte are materials which are used as soil amendments, and both are minerals that are made more porous by expanding them with heat, much like popcorn. Because they have large air spaces within them, they are used to increase the drainage and aeration in potting mixes. Perlite mainly increases drainage, while vermiculite will also hold some moisture and help retain nutrients too. Mixing either of these amendment materials right though a potting mix will increase aeration, improve drainage and reduce the height of the perched water table. The lower the perched water table, the more frequently you will need to water, the higher the perched water table, the riskier it becomes for the plants roots which are navigating below the PWT. another way to lower the PWT if you already have plants in your medium, is to raise the pot off the floor onto a grid of sorts so that the floor doesnt stop the drainage of water as easily if it were flat on the floor. EDIT - Sources https://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/13774/what-is-a-perched-water-table#:~:text=There is%2C in every pot,not allow it to drain. https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2019/09/06/should-you-put-gravel-or-rocks-at-the-bottom-of-plant-pots-for-drainage/

i actually found out that Perlite doesnt actually assist much with drainage\aeration per se... but what it does assist with bigtime is lowering the Perched water table in the pot. the perched water table is the level of water in your pot when it is saturated fully. Capillary action pulls water up into the pot while gravity pushes water down into the pot. where these two forces equalize, is called the perched water table of the medium. straight coco can have the potential of a high perched water table due to the small particles of coco which are attracted to water. adding perlite with its generally larger particles creates surfaces which are resistant to capillary action, thus lowering the upward force, creating a lower perched water table.

i would go with the 60l flush

i must just note that the hole where you got the soil from... is kinda barren and devoid of plant life. i am not so sure that the soil is actually good. if you must use garden soil, you should source it from the best growing plants or shrubs in your garden, as that soil is proving itself... the soil you have may be contaminated with heavy metals that could be causing your troubles

sure... i did kinda compare apples to oranges salts or organic grows i feel tap water is fine to use for feeds. but the difference it made for my teas was chalk and cheese comparison... my tea went anaerobic within 48 hours if i used straight tap water, and did not go anaerobic after 2 weeks in the fridge using water that has stood for 24 hours. but using that analysis and conclusion, it would reason to note that straight tap water may not be as ideal as water that has stood for a bit if you have a developing or established micro life. the difference may be negligible in a feeding scenario ... but according to my experiments, there is a difference... it may kill some microbes.... suppress their breeding efforts... make them weaker for a few days. so if you know this information... whats the harm in 24 hours standing water

im thinking more along the lines of iron def maybe...but thats very strange for garden soil to be low in iron... then it had me stumped because i like to google my symptoms...and if i were to trust ol goods... you should be burying your plant right now because of almost every problem under the sun. and that to me means a few things could be happening im not sure about the pic you showed us, but that dark soil looks moist AF, wet even, like clay... might need to be a bit looser which moves me to think there is something wrong with your roots - if you pull the pot off the plant, do you have white healthy roots? or not so happy roots? the ph could be whack...but you will need a real meter to test that

i must agree with @ORGANinc. on not putting everything under one blanket. i myself using Salt nutes , do not dechlorinate my water before using it, in fact i find its better not to when i feed my plants. but on the organic side, if i make a tea with water right out the tap... the tea will be a pile of complete garbage shit due to the high bacteria killing free radicals, Chlorine. and so if i let my water sit for a day, i found the tea stays useable for 2 weeks no sweat.... but barely 2 days if i use fresh tap water

should be okay man.. at least you know to be careful now

Whats up @GGG - i am not sure how clearly the rules are written regarding taking plants outside, but for the duration of this comp, please do not take your ladies into the sun. others are being warned as well. *** going forward from today, penalizations will be imposed on unfollowed rules @All - Everyone ***

now here are some happy seedlings!! well done man!! definitely nailed the germination part of this comp! i think im even going to follow along!

Thanks man! i am hoping others try this method of growing out as i am really enjoying it! at the moment with the single pheno totes... i kinda treat the whole tote as one plant, and that makes growing 30 plants, as easy as growing 5

lakka, i think they will like that hehe

looking good and green man!

just what ever you decide to spray... please dont spray it on your flowers? there are a bunch of good advices and products to use here... but spraying your flowers should be only a last resort before terminating that flower and starting over. i have heard of a lot of people that neem makes the smoke taste bad or less nice compared to plants that were not treated with neem. Pyrol is not carcenogenic... but best be safer rather than in trouble. and then literally everything else would be a huge nono for flowering plants

Our advice is more for when you run into trouble which ... you will once you get thrips you will gush for all the tips on offer. i do not like spraying my plants, but i am prepared for anything mother nature can throw at me none the less so i like to rather be prepared than panicked and broke... i cant tell you the amount of times i thought everything is golden...and then shit hits the fan and i dont have anything to fix it nore the money to get the stuff to fix it. the other thing is... i do not spray my flowering plants at all... i make sure my IPM is on point in veg so that i have clean flowers going into my flower tent. my flower tent and Veg tent are less than 50cm apart... if i treated my plants with neem only... the bugs would just feast on my flowers instead, so i need something a bit more potent than bad tasting neem

!!!!!!!!!!!No way Jose man!!!!!!!!! im not gonna tell you how to do your things, your grows are not bad.... but god damn lol

Epsom salts has its place in my garden... i used to go through about 2kg a year more or less... my balcony plants get some now and then when i feel like it... and i add about a teaspoon in 40L every other week just to keep up with the rapid growing ladies, and i dont ever see any deficiencies for mg i try my very best to not spray my plants unless i have to... if my plants get 2 sprays of anything in their 5 month cycle, it is a lot what im trying to say is... rather feed Mg to the plant with their normal feed as opposed to spraying them to much

Bro that's a lot...alot alot... Neem oil isn't cheap lol. Rather use Copper soap for wpm Pyrol and Neem, for gnats would be a better more effective and cheaper approach than just Neem. Sounds like your IPM arsenal needs some TLC

@Prom ...i would pot them up sooner rather than later... At this rate my ladies may over take yours within this week! It's not a race by any means.... But veg time is precious and I'm not seeing nice new green growth like the last 2 weeks

From Friday to this evening Is it just me... Or are these plants sorta twisting!? The direction of the 1st 3leaf is facing a different direction in the Friday Pic than today's Pic!! Iv never noticed that before

Thanks man!!! I'm really trying some new things. Iv been watching the large commercial grows in their large coco beds, and double trellis.. And though how do I do this at home? How do I turn their success... Into my success. So I moved to large totes with multiple plants.... Which worked... But the colas flop over easily and it was a mess... So I added stakes and double trellis per tote... And this is the result... I can't wait for harvest time hahaha The next thing I'm going for, is micro harvests... I have set up the tent on a 10 week cycle, there are 5 totes in my flower tent, which means I harvest a tote every 2 weeks, and then replace it with a tote that's ready for flower. Instead of loading my tent with a full flower set up... And risk running into problems with under developed plants or sickly plants or just issues in general.... Now if I have a problem... I can resolve it easily without being set back 5 months. Down time is now reduced to 2 weeks or a max of 4 weeks

To be honest.... My little plants get 0.8EC from early... 400ppm And don't notice any bad vibes. I do water less than fully saturated until they are bigger... But I do feed them pretty much as soon as the 2nd set of leaves is out... And clones, they get fed properly from the word go

@ExoticCannabis2021take a look at what I have brewing in my vet area using this method... Followed by my flower tent. So the only time the plants out grow each other, is if you let them... Keep the canopy level with regular chops... And the whole lot grows uniformly... I try only go for single strain totes, single strain single pheno... So I know it will be uniform

just remember that a human can live off their own body fat for over 50 days!! doesnt mean its wise to go without food for that long. same with plants and seedlings... just because they can, doesnt mean they should. i would give a very light feed mix for them.